Crank/cam sensor testing

Trying to figure out why I have no injector pulse or spark while turning over on my TIII swap. 91 RT SBEC mounted on pass fender, basically built the harness from scratch. Crank sensor seems to work fine in this test? Verified solid 8.9v supply to cam and crank sensor. It gets one injector pulse when the key is turned on (used noid lite to check), but has nothing while spinning over.

Wondering about the 48 ohms on the sensor ground. As far as I can tell from the factory wiring diagrams, the grounds from all the sensors go to Pin 4 of the 60-way, not directly to ground. Which would seem to indicate that the computer turns the ground for them on and off through the signal ground wire on Pin 5, which it does seem to do, but with 48 ohms of resistance. Seems high but not sure. Going to try and check it on my V6 91 Daytona later to see what it shows (runs fine, has factory wiring harness) to verify what I should be seeing.

Any other ideas? Have not checked cam sensor yet. Tried 2 different crank sensors, same results. Everything worked before the swap, drove the donor around the yard before pulling for the swap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1exq4YWlfQU&t=6s

Using shop key service information. The orange wire to both sensors should have above 7 volts. The bk/lb wire should have below 10 ohms to ground.

I checked over my wiring and found a couple issues, one being that I had the coil pack power tied into the sensor ground instead of the B+ from the ASD. Fixed that and now I'm down to 16 ohms on the sensor ground (blk/lb tracer) with key on. Checked against my running V6 car, it has about 13 ohms key on, so should be in the ball park on that now.

Still have no spark and injector pulse though. I either have a crummy 60-way, or a bad computer I think. I've checked the wiring like 5 times over I think. But, I tried another computer briefly and it acted exactly the same, sooo... I'm debating on ordering 60 SBEC terminals and rebuilding harness from scratch, or just go aftermarket computer lol. Going to try and check both computers in a running RT today.

So, I found I had still wired the coil wrong, had the 12v feed in the wrong pin. Fixed that and it started up. Yay! :banana-mario::clap2::partywoot:

Now I have to finish looming the wiring back up and finish hooking up the non-essential to running wiring lol (cruise, CEL, solenoids etc).