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how many shims should i be running on a rfl BOV running like 13-14psi ?? i have 3 in rite now does that sound rite?? more boost = more shims or the other way around?? also were is a better spot to mount it, upper or lower IC line?? its in the upper now about 7-8" before the airbox, but ive read were guys like putting it in the lower whats the diff running it there??
upper vs lower...debated a lot, no real evidence that either way is better. Lower folks theorize that it is better for surge if the pressure wave vents before the i/c...upper folks theorize that the wave starts at the TB and thus better closer to it. It really comes down to where it is easiest to mount, and how visible you want it to be. More shims for more boost, but you shouldn't need many for that low of a pressure. If you really want a scientific means of figuring it out, make a leak tester: two pieces of pvc of the same O.D. of your charge pipe with caps on each, and a tire valve in one works well. Use a bike pump or compressor to see if if leaks. If so, add shim, if not remove shim and retest. You want as little preload as necessary to assure that it vents properly at lower pressure levels.
cause after installing it i dont hear it much, mainly if im boosting like 10psi+ and let off the gas i get a quick wooossssh!, dont hear it inbeetween shifts really, but its a auto and it shifts so quick when boosting?? ill try taking 1 or 2 out today and see
You won't hear it on an auto, the throttle isn't closing between shifts...
edited due to new found information :)
i have noticed after installing it that i seem to smell a gas odor when starting in the morning?? does that have anything to do with taking that vac line off the TB that goes to the BOV?
Yes.
Which TB nipple did you use for the BOV? Need to know which line you removed. Both connect to the EVAP system.
I've run the RFL on a few cars and I've never had to install shims, although I've never had the boost over ~18 psi either. I would take all the shims out and reinstall the RFL. Look inside the horn with the engine idling and see if the piston is closed (should be).
The amount you have to shim it depends on your idle vacuum, where the BOV is installed, and how much boost you run at WOT. All of these will affect the pressure differential (which is what opens the BOV) that the BOV sees between the vacuum applied to the actuator line and the boost pressure acting on the valve. For example, a car that pulls little idle vacuum will need less shims (or none at all) for the BOV to release quickly. A car running higher boost will need more shims to keep it closed at WOT. You just gotta experiment.
My brother recently had an RFL on his Spirit R/T, but he didn't like it because it was ALWAYS going off. It would bark loudly even when shifting gears or letting off the throttle in vacuum! He added a shim which helped the BOV from going off so much. The next week we decided to trade BOVs, so now I have the RFL on my Spirit R/T. My Spirit R/T only pulls ~10" in/hg vacuum at idle, so I had to remove the shim so the BOV would open easier. This was because my Spirit R/T pulls about 5 in/hg less vacuum than my brother's R/T.
whats up with that?Quote:
Originally Posted by iTurbo
i took the line off the TB thats towards the drivers side if standing in front of the car. and at idle my vac is around 20
As far as I can tell, that is what the LWP stage I cams are doing. I've centerlined them to stock and LWP suggested specs. Car makes next to no power up to about 2500 RPM then it's pretty good. When I lived in Laramie WY (7200 ft), I was lucky to get 8 in/hg after it warmed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedeuphoria