What would be the symptoms of a transmission with line pressure set too low?
just trying to figure out how to calibrate using the butt dyno.
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What would be the symptoms of a transmission with line pressure set too low?
just trying to figure out how to calibrate using the butt dyno.
sloppy shifts that are at a lower RPM than normal.
Brian
Okay, Part II!!!
First, let's talk about drill bits. You can't just drill holes with your typical Home Depot drill bit set. Buy yourself a Titanium High Speed Steel NUMBERED Drill Bit Set from HF. You'll be using a #56 which measures .047 as mentioned in BB Mini's thread.
That #56 bit is too small for a normal drill. So bust out your trustee Dremel with the correct collet.
https://i.imgur.com/eD4fri4.jpg
Other Tools: Angle grinder, digital caliper, lots and lots of patience, your favorite beverage.
Supplies: 1/4 steel rod measuring 1.465" long (cut it with patience).
http://i.imgur.com/DwRIIQa.jpg
Step 17: Find the right cavity for the #56 and drill baby drill. Light pressure is the name of the game. You don't want to mar the inside surface of the valve.
https://i.imgur.com/ftktRek.jpg
Step 18: Clean and blowout the chips. I used Brakleen and a blow gun. Here is what the hole looks like from the other size.
https://i.imgur.com/2Go1n6E.jpg
Step 19: Now you can take your normal drill bits and drill out these holes on this plate to a bigger size (1/8th in or .30mm for you cool kids). Clean them up and using Brakleen and air gun.
https://i.imgur.com/eHOTKlQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/g7LusbS.jpg
Step 20: Remove this plate
https://i.imgur.com/Slfo2CC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jgNn2Z4.jpg
Step 21: Remove Shuttle Valve Cap
https://i.imgur.com/jFkvYAl.jpg
Step 22: Remove Shuttle Valve Spring
https://i.imgur.com/TW6Jsxc.jpg
Step 23: REPLACE that Shuttle Valve Spring with that spring with 1/4in steel rod measuring 1.475in long. Put cap back on.
Step 24: Place one of the ball bearings you removed from the valve body inside the Bypass Valve Spring. (Don't freak out about using that ball bearing)
https://i.imgur.com/f1Dd08d.jpg
Step 25: Put that plate back on
https://i.imgur.com/Slfo2CC.jpg
Step 26: Place the valve body on its side again and install the ball bearing. Note that we are leaving one of them out (see I told you not to freak out).
https://i.imgur.com/leNz9rC.jpg
I didn't read this anywhere, but I did lube those slides valves with ATF using a turkey baster. Maybe it wasn't necessary, but I did anyways.
Step 27: Put the valve body back together by reversing steps 11-16. BUT DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN THE TRANSMISSION YET.
We still have to block the accumulator :-)
Step 28: Let's not forget to replace the rear strut with the beefier piece: https://www.transmissionpartsusa.com...-003271001.htm
Back off that 13mm slightly and then loosen that bolt with finger. Note the placement of that lock nut before you loosen it.
Step 29: Here are the two passages Joe Dzwil mentioned to block. Very straightforward. A M10 1.5 Tap works perfectly. I cut down 2 bolts and cut slots on the top to make these bolts flush.
https://i.imgur.com/JoTupQ6.jpg
Joe's Guide
https://i.imgur.com/fpTCsPD.gif
does anyone have a good picture of a homemade version of that Miller tool used to compress the direct clutch return spring?