Theading Exhaust Flange Holes for TU 3" Swingvalve

As anyone who has one of these can attest to, using the stock exhaust bolt/spring to hold the flange to the swingvalve becomes a ----- to remove. Getting a wrench on the nut to remove the bolt was next to impossible.

I read up on this, and some seemed to suggest tapping the hole for a helicoil. I guess that makes sense. You can use a stainless steel helicoil and if the bolt rusts in, it would probably be possible to replace the helicoil.

Well, I went a different way. I tapped the hole for an M10x1.5 bolt. I used a nut to hold the tap straight and spun it down. It was surprisingly easy, and the holes didn't need to be opened up any larger to start the tap.

The real desire here was to utilize parts that were easily available from the shop down the road, or Rock Auto.

I originally wanted to try these bolts:
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-897-03126.aspx
or:
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5481-675-203.aspx

In the end, I decided to go with these studs:
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-921-03107.aspx
or:
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-30176-675-216.aspx
coupled with these springs:
http://www.finddormanhelp.com/Produc...&pcat=4&cat=17

Here's the pictures of the progress:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61759&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61758&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61757&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61756&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61755&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61754&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61753&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61752&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=61751&stc=1

After a year or two when I take the damn thing out again for some unforeseen issue, I'll update this post to let everyone know how it turned out.

Later!
Jeff

If you use some quality high temp anti-seize on there it'll come right out. That is a great solution to a common problem. I would imagine it's even worse on the 3" SVs vs. the 2.5" units. The 2.5" SV with the .63 turbine housing are bad enough as it is.

Oh yeah! Thanks, I forgot to mention that. I will definitely use anti-seize when putting it back together.

As I recall, for the 2.5" SV you can use the captured nut style setup on both "ears". For the 3" you can only use the captured nut on the outboard side. The ear under the turbine housing is too tight for a captured nut.

i.e.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...k=592896&jsn=3

While you are at it be sure to use some of that anti-sieze on the bolts holding the swingvalve on to the turbine housing also. Try to use hi temperature nickel based anti-sieze and not the copper version. Due to the larger 3" swingvalve body there can be a conflict with the fastening nuts. Most people either clearance the housing or grind down the nuts. Another trick is to preassemble the parts finger tight while using RTV to hold the nuts in place. After it dries gently remove the bolts. It's a one time solution but works like a charm.

Chris-TU

I spent 2 hours fussing around trying to get the inboard bolt/nut together with a 3" TU housing and .63 housing. This is a fantastic solution. If I ever take my head or turbo off again I'm doing this.

I bought some ARP stainless bolts for the SV to housing bolts.

I didn't even know about nickel anti-seize. I'll try to pick some up on the way home.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/p.../77124/4610201

Probably me that you saw suggest a Heli-coil. It's what I did after going to a TU housing from the Turbonetics 2.5" SV that was already threaded on the inside hole. The Heli-coil tap doesn't require any drilling of the holes either as they're cast to just the right size. I can use the stock bolts which won't rust to the Helicoil so they come right out if need be. Either solution works as now it looks like you have a stud that'll never have to be removed unless it interfer's with removing the whole turbo setup if need be. I just had an M8x1.25 Heli-coil and Heli-coils in the shop from doing intake and exhaust manifold holes so much that they were easy and work well.

Very cool. Makes install & removal so much easier, especially w/3” sv. I used a Time-sert. No issues so far.

Great idea.

I tracked a nut to the top of the swingvalve flange and used good antisieze. Have had it apart several times over the past 14 years without issue.

I'm thinking a stud and a nut might be a better idea than a bolt
then you have two chances to unthread it later -steda just one