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I did the external voltage regulator conversion on my Spirit R/T, and it seemed to be working fine, other then the fact that I am about to replace my regulator for the 3rd time in a few months. At first I had a Standard Ignition one in, and it crapped out after a couple of months. Then I put in a Transpo adjustable one, and it crapped out after a week. So now I'm going to install another Standard Ignition one. Hope that crappy parts are my only problem.
how do you have it wired in ?
I've seen posts saying to wire one lead to a switched power wire or some such but all I've ever done (in many many cars) is connect both field wires to the external voltage regulator .. no switched power , no b.s.
I just cut the field wires and run them straight to the regulator .. I haven't even ever worried about which wire to what pin on the regulater
never had an issue with it/them this way
Mine is wired to switched power. It seems to work fine at first but then the regulators crap out. It's not like they are getting over voltage or anything that should make them crap out.
I would definitely check the grounds. Clean where the case of the VR is grounded and add some dielectric grease. I added a wire from one of the case holes to a separate ground location right next to it. Stay away from the adjustable VR IMO. Good old Standard should last you a LONG time.
all I can suggest is rewire it to just the two field wires and drop the switched power as it's definitely not needed
I've done the ex regulator in at lest 8 cars I can think of off hand and never had any problems
I've only ever wired the two field wires to the v-r pigtail - didn't even worry about which to what
I did exactly what you stated when I installed the set up. Hoping the new Standard regulator takes care of the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by rx2mazda
If my new regulator doesn't do the trick I'll get back to basics like you've suggested.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge
I wired it as the picture. Zero issue so far.
http://www.backyardmechanic.org/wp-c...p-Chrysler.jpg
That's how I have mine wired as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingbe
Run a Toyota Camry alternator that has the built in regulator and splice the wires into the system. Its basically the same Nippendenso alternator with the regulator onboard. I have one wire going to the original signal (green wire I think) and one to the fuse box I installed. Works fine for my car.
Took the car to my buddy, who is a much better electrical troubleshooter then I am, and after doing a series of tests he claims my alternator is shot. Oh well. Debit card out, Rock Auto on speed dial...
I'd kinda like to hear the reason for the switched power wire
my way with just the two field wires run to the v-r came from one of the mechanics working at the dealer I used to go to
casually walking across the shop he just said cut the field wires and connect them to the v-r
- doesn't really matter which wire where on the pigtail - so that's how I've always done it
even to the point of letting the "OCD" take over and installing one before it's needed
I get a pair of same type two wire connectors and put them on the field wires behind the battery , after the multy plug connection for the front of engine harness - then I can still unplug the harness normally
I put one half of the connector on the field wires and the other two same half connectors on the wires running to the external regulator and the PM/Smec
then if the headlights start to go dim I can simply unplug one regulator and plug in the other
or , so goes the plan .... after,
one afternoon working on my car at a buddy's shop , comes around time to go home
rush hour , early winter - so it's already dark and just starting to snow
my car idling in front of the shop seems to sound odd and the headlights are about half what they should be
shut the lights off and it sounds ok
(pray)
20 minute drive home but luckly buddy lives right around the corner so I can follow him home
I make it home , no issue but the car sounds rough
my buddy pulls in the driveway to the side and sprints for the garage door to swing it open
just in time as I get to the door , rolling it bounces the front wheels up the step of the edge of the garage floor .. and stalls , with just enough energy in it to get the back wheels up over the edge and all the way in to the usual parking spot in the garage
it was one of those skin of the teeth wins that made you knew you just had a gift of some sort
(I apologize for the following somber turn)
- a gift maybe more important as buddy , a former TM brother in arms so to say , a long time buddy from around the corner , now a 20 odd year EX buddy - you know how that goes ,
seems he had a bad year , lost a son right after Christmas and then his Dad 7 weeks later
and decided last week that he didn't want to play the game of life no more
his name was Marc - I called him Wylie-P-file-e one day and it stuck (after Wylie Coyote)
his last name was Pfeil (file)
sorry guys I had to share - he was one of "us" way back when ,eventhough he's never been here
https://youtu.be/utXjxwPAcHk?t=181Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge
Turns out it was my alternator. Feels good to be back on the road. :)
So why does it work even if you don't have it hooked to power?Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingbe
Sounds like that method will set the the alternator full on all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar
https://itstillruns.com/automotive-v...k-5024418.html
It won't but one of he green wires in the harness is already switched 12v. I think it even turns to a dark blue wire on the chassis side of the sub-harness plug. All you have to do is connect the reg to the field terminal wires and(in case the SMECs regulator is shorted etc) cut the green field wire going to the SMEC, although I don't see how it would work if you got the two wires switched in that scenario.Quote:
Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar