Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
thats only a difference of approx .028" in diameter and when you take that and divide it into 1/2 you are only .014" off for each stud from the center, which is nothing i would be worried about!!
my buddy has a chevy cutlass and is cruising around on mustang rims
bolt pattern of his car is 5 x 115 and the stanger is the 5 x 114 :nod:
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
I'd do it with steelies, but not alloys.
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
I have been thinking the same thing about my Rampage. I really want to run old school Mopar Rallye wheels on it. They are available in the old Dart small bolt pattern of 5x4. 4 inches is 101.6mm. I have seen others do it on Neons. That's only a 1.6mm difference, or .062".
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
do it!!
It will work.
If the wheels you are bolting on are hub-centric (any kind of OEM wheels pretty much) you can get hubcentric rings for them and have piece of mind if that bothers you.
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
Quote:
Originally Posted by
contraption22
I have been thinking the same thing about my Rampage. I really want to run old school Mopar Rallye wheels on it. They are available in the old Dart small bolt pattern of 5x4. 4 inches is 101.6mm. I have seen others do it on Neons. That's only a 1.6mm difference, or .062".
If your worried, just run spacers, like these-
http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/optionselects/
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Vigo
do it!!
It will work.
If the wheels you are bolting on are hub-centric (any kind of OEM wheels pretty much) you can get hubcentric rings for them and have piece of mind if that bothers you.
The only thing that hub centric rings do is make sure that you have the wheel centered when you bolt it down. They don't actually hold the wheel in place in any way.
They are for people that need to change wheels quickly or for idiots and don't realize that the lugs aren't going in squarely and simply torque them down anyway....
You can use cheap plastic hub centric rings for $10 a pair. I have a set just to make it easier to center them but they aren't really needed.
-Rich
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
Quote:
The only thing that hub centric rings do is make sure that you have the wheel centered when you bolt it down.
Which is exactly why i mentioned them. If the lug pattern is not exact the rings would prevent you from causing the wheel to be off-center by tightening down one lug before the others.
Quote:
They are for people that need to change wheels quickly or for idiots
I would definitely rather pay the $10 or 20 upfront rather than having to take my sweet --- time every time i took a wheel off. Id rather know it went on right and do other things with my time. :p
I have hubcentric rings on my aries because i redrilled the bolt pattern and the hubcentric rings make sure the wheel is true and not shaking at 100mph. Now all my crooked lugs have to do is clamp the wheels on.:lol:
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Vigo
I would definitely rather pay the $10 or 20 upfront rather than having to take my sweet --- time every time i took a wheel off. Id rather know it went on right and do other things with my time. :p
That is the only reason I have them, it is just a speed thing.
I only mention that they don't do anything to support the wheels so that people don't feel like they have to buy expensive CNCed aluminum rings when simple and cheap phenolic plastic rings will do the job just as well.
-Rich
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
Alright, i gotcha. Yeh, the plastic rings do the job, since they are not structural in any way. They're kinda like a dowel pin for your wheel.. doesnt do anything once the bolts are tight.
If you KNOW what sizes you need you can get them at discount tire for like $15 a bag.
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
So the reason I would not do it with alloys, is because cast alloy is somewhat brittle and doesn't have a huge amount of tensile strength. The lug holes have a broad bevelled seat on an alloy wheel to spread the load, and the nuts for alloys likewise have a broad seat. If you force it on a slightly wrong bolt pattern, you'll force the nuts to bear either on the outside or inside of their holes, in a narrow strip. Compared to the area designed to hold the loads, this will be very small. Under hard useage, or even maybe when you're trying to get the wheel on, the wheel may crack.
Steel is however better for tensile strength and somewhat malleable, if you force steel wheels on, the worst that will happen is the holes stretch to accommodate the new nut position. This would probably have the nuts bearing on about 3/4 of the designed surface, compared to an eighth or less on the alloys, so would be comparatively safer than doing it to alloys. For winter or DD steelies this should be well in the safety margins. For going to the track, anything that makes it weaker than stock is going to be baaad mmmkay?
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Vigo
Alright, i gotcha. Yeh, the plastic rings do the job, since they are not structural in any way. They're kinda like a dowel pin for your wheel.. doesnt do anything once the bolts are tight.
If you KNOW what sizes you need you can get them at discount tire for like $15 a bag.
I got mine on ebay for something around that price.
BTW: Our hubs are 57.1mm
If anyone needs wheel spacers let me know I still have some 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" spacers. They are billet and designed for our hubs.
-Rich
Re: 5x115 Vs. 5x114.3 O.T
At least one company that I sell rims from uses the same part number for both those bolt patterns on the same set of rims...I think they told me that there is only a .007" difference. I've seen several fwd Pontiacs running 17 inch Mustang rims that have the 5x114.3 pattern with no troubles, as long as every thing is retorqued after 50 and then 150 miles.
DON"T FORGET....I sell 17" take off rims with under 5 miles on them from 09 Mustang GTs for only $385 a set...and I deliver for a fee to IN, OH, IL, lower WI, lower MI, and upper KY.
:lol::nod::clap::bounce2::partywoot::wave1:
