Spirit R/T rear axle tight on drivers side

Hello,

I am looking for help on solving my offset rear axle on the Spirit R/T. I picked up some new 225/50/16's for the car and now I am really rubbing on cloverleafs. It had 205/55/16 on the rear previously. I do notice that the rear is offset. I have seen talk of an adjustable panhard/track bar but I am not sure what I am looking for there. Just take an eye to eye measurement and replace with tube and heim joints? Is there a readily available part that would resolve like for a neon? Thoughts?



Thanks,
Ben

I'm not sure anyone is currently making adjustable bars. I need to make one for my lancer since it is lowered in the rear and that throws the trailing arm to the right of the car. I presume your car is lowered?

You've got the right idea. It's just a tube with heim joints on the end. You should be able to make one pretty easily.

My car has stock spring to the best of my knowledge. I suppose a fella could chop the bar and take out the offset needed and weld it back up.

Well, I'm sure they have sagged over the years, and perhaps you're able to generate the cornering force to compress the weaker springs. The next time I have CSX 42 out, I'll try to measure the adjustable bar that's under it.

Do you (or anyone) know if there are any springs available still that will work? I have a full set of KYB struts/shocks I will be installing. Not good stuff I know but better then the 140k stuff that it has now. I would like to play a little SCCA at some point. I have used the search function but I am not finding much.

Does anyone have a picture or specs on what the CSRacing panhard bar looked like? It appears that I will need to make a bracket for the body side and then decide how to change the interface of the track bar and panhard bar on the axle side. Currently they cup each other with the panhard going around the track bar. Maybe converting both to heim joints would solve that problem.

Might check the panhard bar, it should be straight. A few years ago I noticed the one on my Spirit R/T had a curve to it, not sure why. Guessing if I let it go it would have quickly gotten worse.

Here is a link to a parts list to build your own

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...le+panhard+bar

Thanks, that is good info. I think I am going to go with something approximating the poly bushing solution "track bar made with 7/8" DOM, 0.156 wall steel tubing." If I order the correct left hand tap I can make the threaded bungs for welding in to the ends. I believe this is considered sprung weight and it should be OK in steel. Also sounds like I should box that mount some.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dr_amx

Thanks, that is good info. I think I am going to go with something approximating the poly bushing solution "track bar made with 7/8" DOM, 0.156 wall steel tubing." If I order the correct left hand tap I can make the threaded bungs for welding in to the ends. I believe this is considered sprung weight and it should be OK in steel. Also sounds like I should box that mount some.

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Since it bolts to the body and the trailing arm, it's probably about 50/50 sprung vs. unsprung weight. It's so low, I wouldn't worry about it. The link posted above is pretty much what the CS Racing bar looks like for the most part.

So I have been thinking about this. If my track bar was bent then the axle would be justified to the drivers side. It must be the trackbar mount or the static panhard bar that is bent for it to move to the passenger side.

Pics of rear suspension
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HVxajsASFeC6fibNA

It looks like it might have been massaged to clear that exhaust? I don't believe that welded nut and bolt are supposed to be there. You're right that if it's pushed to the driver's side the panhard bar must be shorter than it should be.

I installed the exhaust and I did no massaging. The bolt if from a exhaust previous to my ownership.

I wonder what to do then. Maybe I should try partially boxing the panhard and mount to see if that corrects the issue. :confused2:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dr_amx

I installed the exhaust and I did no massaging. The bolt if from a exhaust previous to my ownership.

I wonder what to do then. Maybe I should try partially boxing the panhard and mount to see if that corrects the issue. :confused2:

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I would make an adjustable bar and go from there. I'm sure there was quite a variation in how the trailing arms were in the individual cars from the factory when tolerances were stacked. You certainly aren't the first person to experience scrubbing with a 225 width tire on tight turns with a relatively stock suspension.

This is still a good parts list at speedway for anyone else wondering. I will also buy a similar setup for the panhard bar. Thanks for all your help!

Part number list:
910355-42.....Aluminum Swedged Tie Rod 42" long
1170810........5/8" RH thread 1/2" diameter hole heim joint
1170810L......5/8" LH thread 1/2" diameter hole heim joint
3159603........5/8" RH aluminum jam nut
3159604........5/8" LH aluminum jam nut
91001503......Heim joint seals 6pack

The site says that 1.5" should be subtracted for each hiem joint. Since the current center to center on the track bar is 46" then a 43" bar would be correct with room for adjustment. The current panhard is ~17.5" center to center. I will order a 16" bar for that as 14.5" is not an option. Hopefully I can face it off shorter in the lathe and make it work.

In for PN information