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Ramerati has the later water pump with cast barb. When I bought it, it was plugged/capped and there was a Tee in the lower radiator hose which connects to the heater core.
The later Ma Mopar design I would assume is an improvement.
Should I switch it? A switch would reverse the flow direction, right?
I
that hose end location change has a reason and it's likely not what you think
especially , in years past when dealing with cooling system parts there has always been a huge supply of aftermarket parts , rad cores , rads , hoses , etc
the automakers would rather sell you the parts so they change little things around .. like the heater hose moving from a rad tank to the water pump , or again to a T in the rad hose
if they build different cars with slightly different parts , THEN the aftermarket has to come up with a new part for each application
where that hose is has absolutely no relation to cooling or heating
or
it's a pain in the a-- right ?
exactly .. just as it's intended to be
John,
Both locations would be on the return side. Flow from radiator goes top to bottom. The nipple on waterpump is also on the return or suction side, as is the lower radiator hose.. The pressure side of waterpump would be on the other side of the impeller on the waterpump. The feed (pressure) side going to heater core is I'm guessing coming from waterbox on Masi cylinder head. Probably has that strange but nice 3/4" to 5/8" silicone hose. If you have room I would use the nipple on the waterpump and do away with the tee in the lower radiator hose. That is exactly what Chrysler did after 85 on the larger than L-body cars. On the L-body cars, they had the return in the lower part of radiator on the side tank.
Plugging that fitting off the waterbox, and you would likely see very wild swings in temp gauge as the thermostat opens. More than one way to plumb this, but just remember you need to have waterpump pumping coolant at all times (not just when thermostat opens) otherwise it will cavitate and develop hot spots in cooling system.
Todd
Thanks Johny, sounds right.
Todd, as usual spot on. I wasn't visualizing the interior of the pump, the nipple is on the low side. I have room so I will connect to the pump directly as you suggest. Doing so will reduce joints/points of failure/complexity.
As for the waterbox, the passenger side goes straight to the top of the passenger side's cross flow tank (Dave Grove's custom radiator) while the driver's side waterbox outlet hose dives under the intake manifold where it reduces to 1/2" before it connects to the other heater hose. Unlike my other L-bodies, there is no heater valve in the engine compartment; so, I've imagined mine is an earlier design. Is that right?
Pic showing water box. Upper (passenger side) hose to radiator is not yet installed, it turns to run between compressor and end of IM and then straight into radiator.
Is your fresh air inlet for the HVAC in the center of the cowl, or off to the passenger side? Non-A/C L-bodies did not have a heater valve from the factory. If your factory air inlet is in the middle, your Rampage was a non-A/C car, and that's why you don't have the heater valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnl
From the last picture you posted, it looks like the plastic cover for the fresh air inlet is in the center, just like mine. So I'm assuming it's a non-A/C body.
BTW, that's a damn nice looking engine you got there.
Yes, 83Scamp, there is an inlet in the center which the previous owner's builder blocked off. There is a second one over on the passenger side too. Thanks for clarifying for me.
And thanks for the compliment Wildwest.
^ this sounds like an A/C conversion using the o-e air con box
mopar add on air con doesn't change the inlet plenum position
if the gap at the heater core tubes and firewall is kinda funky you can bet on it as the core tube positions are also slightly different in the o-e a/c firewall compared to heat only
I had to trim a 3/4inch wide frame of firewall opening from an L body A/C firewall to screw to mine as a frame to close the gap and seal it properly with the typical foam sealer piece when I did the same conversion
Johnny - here's pic of air inlet/window wiper tray showing the two inlets and another that may show what you are talking about - the heater in/out stubs near the brake booster?
yeah that's been added like I said - stock o-e a/c box
you should have a couple of block off plates added to the cowel where the fresh air vents at the ends of the dash opened to the cowel
now those vents should be connected to the a/c box by plastic ducts in the dash
No problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnl
To answer your original question though, when I installed the 2.5 TII setup in my Scamp, I used the common block water pump, and ran a hose from the barb on the pump to the heater core. The molded hoses are readily available. Gates # 28471 has the 90* molded curve in it.
I had to get creative with the line coming off the thermostat housing. The original pipe for the 2.5 is formed to point at the battery tray for use with a shut-off valve. With my custom FMIC setup, I just didn't have room to go that way. So I used the original pipe off my carbed motor because it runs down the end of the block & head similar to the turbo lines. I cut it off before it curved back to the intake manifold. Had to angle it off slightly, but it pointed right at the heater core, and a short piece of 5/8" hose let me connect it all up. Works like a charm.