Buick Regal 3800 SC timing chain

Hey guys, I'm going to be replacing the timing set (chain/sprockets) on my '98 Buick Regal GS soon. It has the L67 engine (3800 S/C). The car runs great and there are no apparent problems with the timing set, but I want to install a set of ZZP 1.9 rocker arms and LS6 valve springs/retainers for more power. I'm hesitant to do those mods with the original timing chain because of the increased load it will put on the chain.

I have the tools to remove the harmonic balancer, but I am hesitant to put my impact driver on the center bolt to remove/replace it. Could this damage the main bearings? I have seen videos of people using an impact on the bolt, or using a breaker bar and the car's starter motor to remove it. I depend on the car for my job so I'm a little nervous about potentially breaking something if I ham-fist it. I'm not really sure what the 'correct' method is for this bolt. I was even considering using a large strap wrench (and two people), which should also allow me to torque it back to spec. Although I also wonder if that would damage the elastomer ring in the balancer.

i've done the breaker bar/starter motor once and used an impact several times for removal. i would not ever use an impact to replace it. tell me how i know what happens when you think you have the impact on lowest setting and actually have it on highest setting when reinstalling the crank pulley...................

Jeremy aren't those engines famous for balancer's going bad? I seem to remember that. The impact is fine for removal. Tighten with torque wrench. I replace timing belts all the time on import stuff. Toyota's and Honda's are unbelievably tight many times. I've used 1250lbs/ft 3/4" impacts that wouldn't remove that bolt sometimes. I fear the bolt breaking off in crankshaft someday. I know people use the starter motor, but this would be a Hail Mary, last resort for me...
Todd

Hi Todd, yeah it seems there are quite a few videos on YouTube of balancer replacement videos for the 3800. Mine seems OK though. Good to know that I can at least use an impact to remove it. I found a thread on a GM W-body forum where a guy removed a flex plate inspection cover and used a vice grip to pinch it to keep the engine from rotating, so hopefully that will work. Looks like the torque spec for it is 111 ft/lbs + 76 degrees and I may buy a new bolt if its really stubborn coming off.