Turbonator Nitrous Timing retard

Ok, so I've been thinking about setting up the nitrous timing retard the Rob made available to us using the turbonator cal, instead of adjusting timing on the distributor. I'm trying to figure out how to trigger the timing retard, and looking at the available switches it looks like using the A/C switch is my best option.

Unfortunately there isn't anything left behind the dash to actually turn on the A/C, so I was thinking if I just tap a wire into the my "nitrous arm" switch and run that wire to the A/C relay so when the nitrous is armed, the relay clicks on. Is that all that is needed to make the computer think the A/C is on, and therefore pull the timing?

As far the the tune goes, is the timing retard in the cal the same as if I were to change base timing on the distributor or is there some sort of calculation the computer uses. For example, a 2 degree setting in the tune actually equals 4 degrees being pulled on the engine.

Also, the dummy question of the day. Which relay is the A/C relay? :o

There's actually an input to the SMEC for the AC. You don't even need a relay. You can just switch that wire to ground (I think - double check the wiring diagram) and it should work.

The timing retard is just a pre-set reduction in timing. It would work the same as turning back the distributor. Except that it will come on only when switched :).

On my lancer when i 1st tested Tested the Nos route for Rob , I had my nitrous system wired master arm switch to WOT switch to finger trigger on the wheel to Nos rpm controller from there it spliced to the nos relay control side and the ac input worked good .

But i love to have the rpm controlled by the ecm and have the purge or egr solenoid circuit (use a big transistor ) control the nitrous . That way it could be progressive . iE ( have the nitrous jets set to 200 shot then duty cycle the out put to the transistor this way it could be tied into speed , rpm maps ) then you can forget changing jets , just reflash the ecm on the fly to change the shot hp level

Wow bakes, that sounds way to complicated to me. I'm just running power to an arm switch, then gets routed to a button that I press which activates the Nitrous. Been running that system for over 10 years now without an issue.

I am struggling to get the computer to pull the timing. I've sent Rob a PM and he's looking into it, but basically I spliced into the cruise on/off wire and I'm hoping to just run that slice into the car and hook it up to the power output of my arm switch. That way when I arm the system, it will pull timing and I'll be ready to rock and roll.

Unfortunately I'm not seeing any timing retard. I found a real old thread where Rob realized that the Nos retard was factored into the antilag settings and if antilag wasn't active, the no2 retard wouldn't be either. So I just tried activating the NOS retard and the antilag. NOS retard set to 10 degrees, rpms held at approx 2000 and supplied power to the cruise input, but had no change. I'd think I'd be able to hear a slight change in the engine with a 10 degree pull. Obviously I'd like to make sure the timing is being pulled before I test it on the street.

BTW I'm running Robs premade Stage 4 cal, just incase anyone else has some ideas while Robs looking into his side of things.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Joe_Van_Duno

Ok, so I've been thinking about setting up the nitrous timing retard the Rob made available to us using the turbonator cal, instead of adjusting timing on the distributor. I'm trying to figure out how to trigger the timing retard, and looking at the available switches it looks like using the A/C switch is my best option.

Unfortunately there isn't anything left behind the dash to actually turn on the A/C, so I was thinking if I just tap a wire into the my "nitrous arm" switch and run that wire to the A/C relay so when the nitrous is armed, the relay clicks on. Is that all that is needed to make the computer think the A/C is on, and therefore pull the timing?

As far the the tune goes, is the timing retard in the cal the same as if I were to change base timing on the distributor or is there some sort of calculation the computer uses. For example, a 2 degree setting in the tune actually equals 4 degrees being pulled on the engine.

Also, the dummy question of the day. Which relay is the A/C relay? :o

---

This is a SMEC or SBEC cal?

I confirmed that it won't do anything at idle. RPM's need to go up over idle by about 500 rpm to trigger the 'off-idle' flag. So, figure over 1700rpm cold, to be safe...

It is a smec.

So, I'm thinking I should be able to just wire it in, and set the NO2 retard to something huge, say 15 degrees. Go for a ride with the switch off, then with it on, and there should be a noticeable difference. That sound about right?

Reviving an old thread, I'm looking at setting this up again. I have been searching for a wiring diagram but with old school hot rodder website still down, I can't find one. Does anyone know off the top of their head if the cruise control on / off input is a 12v supply or a ground supply?

Should be power supplied from cruise switch as one hot wire goes to switch and then three wires to go to smec from the cc switch.