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Switching from 1 to 3 wire o2 sensor
I have a doner plug that will plug into the o2 sensor with 6" of wire.
Connector is marked A,B, and C.
A= large diameter blue wire
B= large diameter black wire
C= small diameter black wire
Anyone have a wiring diagram?
Thanks!
You don't want the 3 wire o2 sensor, it's not that accurate. Might as well just stick with 1 wire.
The blue wire connects with the blue one that goes to the solenoid pack. The large black one goes to ground. The small black one goes where the single-wire sensor plugs in.:thumb:
I'd disagree, an O2 sensor is pretty much an O2 sensor (unless you're talking wide band which is another issue). Both the 3 and 4 wire versions are pretty much just a one wire sensor with a heater added to get it up to temp faster (and keep it there). This has the added bonus of longer life due to the earlier heat not allowing as garbage to stick to it. They'll even tolerate a small amount of leaded gas before they go away.Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingbe
My $.02
I understand what tryingbe is saying, I know the 4 wire has a sensor
ground that makes it more accurate.
Even though his post was no help.
I have a new 3 wire o2 sensor and I'm going to use it.
Thanks Mock!
From http://www.thedodgegarage.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by zin
In the beginning, there was the one wire O2 sensor; and it was good.
BUT there was a problem with the sensor in regards to warming up- it was too slow. Oxygen sensors don't start working till 600F. So the engineers went back to the drawing board and came up with a new O2 sensor- the THREE wire. It had a heating element and a ground wire so that the sensor heated up right quick! BUT there was one more problem. The sensor itself was grounded by the turbo housing/exhaust manifold and it was throwing the sensor off by almost a tenth of a volt by excessive resistance. SO back to the drawing board again and the FOUR wire sensor was born. It had a ground just for the sensor!
That's why on some cars with one or three wire sensors the bar graph won't read 10 bars even when fuel is practically rolling out the tailpipe. They are losing that last .1 volt in the exhaust housing and/or wiring.