F that. If the glass and bezel are damaged, the unit may be damaged....send it back and stop being impatient! :)
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because the gauge faces look so alike I think they are made by the same manufacturer as the inovative gauges - which I've read sometimes have issues
I like my set of the 3 smaller ones (from summit) but the lens and retainer ring were really lose when I got the temp gauge - it fell off when I was working with it but a little crimp with the channel locks fixed it up ok
the instruction sheet said a special dimmer for the led lighting in the gauge was needed and the standard dash light dimmer would not work
I bought em for my truck but sadly life's got in the way like it does and I haven't yet had a chance to install them properly
I thought about that, but the damage was just a small crease on the bezel and of course, that was enough to crack the glass. Taking my chances and yes, I am being impatient. :) Hoping it won't come back to bite me, we'll find out soon. ;)
Got the gauge basically set, just need to get the wiring done and then pull the cluster and test it. I was able to do some cutting and get it to set correctly and still use the bracket on the back, so no glue required. If I find a spare cluster that I can cut up again, I'll probably redo it and cut only where I need to. First cut was a guess, then I cut some more and then some more. :( It's covered for the most part, but I would have preferred to cut only what I needed with the holes just a tad larger than necessary for minor adjustments. I'll take some measurements and post up for anyone who wants to do this in the future.
And Reeves is right, these things fit ALMOST perfectly in the bezel and in general, where the old one used to go. Very minor adjustments required to get it to fit.
Attachment 56340 Attachment 56342
Reeves, did you just tap into a cable driven sensor or did you upgrade to the electronic one? Or did you piggy back off what you're using for your speed-based boost controller? I need a speed sensor and would prefer to just go to the electronic one, but concerned about using a 90 speed sensor with an 87 computer for an aftermarket speedo. I think it SHOULD work since the computer is just being told what the sensor is picking up, but not sure if there is more to it than that. It seems since everything at the speed sensor is mechanical, that it wouldn't matter which sensor is present.
Huh...the back of that gauge looks like VDO gauges I used to deal with in boats way back in the day...late '90's.
Jon,
James is running a custom rear-wheel speed sensor, wired into the stock harness in place of the stock speed sensor and also providing the signal to the electronic speedometer. This custom setup emulates the stock speed sensor by creating roughly 8000 ground pulses per mile, so electrically the Logic module can't tell the difference between it and the stock speed sensor. We did this so we could do boost control based on actual vehicle speed, regardless of whether or not the front wheels have traction (i.e. boost doesn't increase if the front wheels lose traction, making it worse).
As far as I know, both the early and late stock speed sensors all put out the same signal (roughly 8000 ground pulses per mile as long as you are using the correct color drive gear for your tire size), so aside from provisions for the mechanical drive cable (or any plug differences) they should be interchangeable, and should send the correct signal to your logic module and speedometer simultaneously.
As an aside, the speed-based boost controller doesn't work directly from the speed sensor, it actually works off the serial data from the logic module because it needs TPS Voltage (WOT or not), vehicle speed, and knock retard to correctly determine the boost level.
I hope this helps.
Warren
It does help Warren, thanks for the detail. And I already ordered the electronic one, so we'll see!!! I also found another vendor selling gauges that are 1.1" thick, so going to see what options I have with fitment, placement and clearance using the stock "frame" of the cluster and then maybe get some of these. They are SpeedHut and look really good and can be very customized.
Can anybody point out which bulb sockets on the back of the cluster are for backlighting?
Also, which way they'd need to be oriented on the board for positive and negative? This is critical for LED lighting.
I have my cluster out and was going to throw LED bulbs in it.
Mike, I just had to plug them in and apply power to the board, personally. As far as which are which, I can provide the rally cluster diagram if you like. Replacing the ones for the other bulbs won't hurt. I did them all just so I didn't have to remember which one went where. PM me if you want the rally cluster diagram and I'll post it up.
What I did was I wired two 6v flashlight batteries in series to apply 12v to each LED bulb and marked the negative and positive poles with red and black markers. Then I looked up the wiring diagram to find the positive and negative pins for the lighting circuit, and simply traced the circuits for each socket. Finally I hooked the batteries up to the cluster itself to verify everything worked.
Bumped the wrong thread.
I've been thinking about this for YEARS. Being able to use a 3-wire hall effect sensor was #1, being able to use the newer style 3-wire hall effect sensor from an early Neon with the FCI (now Delphi, er, "APTIV") connector was #2.
I don't know why, but when I saw this thread I really wanted to get something working.
My requirements were simple:
1. CHEAP
2. ABSOLUTELY no modification to the speedometer itself (it's a GLHS part)
3. Fits in the tight space behind the cluster
I kept looking for more or less a flat pack stepper motor. I don't know why, but for some reason, THIS time I thought about the brushless DC motors in PC cooling fans. So, I found some scrap fans and I went around to taking them apart. I'll be damned if it didn't work quite nicely. With little modification the stator assembly fit down around the speedometer input shaft. Then, I cut a square profile into the fan shaft so it would fit the input square hole.
IT VERKS!
Pictures:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=63364&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=63363&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=63362&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=63361&stc=1
Here's a pair of videos to show it working:
https://youtu.be/Dq2vw7lGTZE
https://youtu.be/ZhzBjXU4hdw
So, next, I have to prove out that PWMing the +12V signal line adjusts the speed with the necessary fidelity. One thing that worries me is that there may not be enough torque at low speed to prevent "stall". I'll cut the blades off and that might help. We'll see where things go from here.
Later,
Jeff
Cool beans... Jeff!
Get a Arduino to receive the VSS signal then send the PWN to the speedo.
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe...ns/arduino.jpg
Yeah, it "stalls" at 15 MPH. It's not really a problem with the speedometer, more of an issue with the electrically induced flux not being able to overcome the static flux of the iron-core stator. I even chopped all the blades off to reduce rotational mass.
I'll try to switch it to a stepper style setup.