Yeah, if they have the same harmonics they'll pump each other, and good idea about recording the sounds and comparing, then you don't have to worry about whether your ear is leading you astray.
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Yeah, if they have the same harmonics they'll pump each other, and good idea about recording the sounds and comparing, then you don't have to worry about whether your ear is leading you astray.
Tore into the trans tonight... Damage Report:
- mainshaft bearing race broke TIG glue and walked about 1/2 way off
- #3 brass synchro ring cracked all the way thru
- 2, 3 an d 4 gears' dog teeth beat to hell
- trans fluid was aluminum and brass powder filled
- brass/bronze shift forks all looked OK :thumb:
So far:
- dissasembled the gearset
- cleaned everything up
- pressed race back on
- new TIG glue, heavier tacks
- doubled up springs on slider guides
- new (used) brass rings on 3 and 4
- used (and still beat to F) 4th gear
- gearset ready to go back in
I also measured up the shifter cable bushings and will make a couple tomorrow to repair worn ones.
Moral of thr story - when you shift and it goes into gear, but makes a "crunch" noise, something is FUBAR, take it apart, LOL!
3sx.com bought someones 140mph FWD 3000gt. it never ran faster then maybe 10.9 or 11.0. They put traction bars on it and it ran a 10.1 and did a 1.49 60' on what I believe were 26x10 slicks. Manual trans. Without the bar the car could only do HIGH 10's
With the current NHRA rules, I don't know how you get these things to work. Super soft springs in the rear to fake that you have clearance?
i wonder why that race keeps walking off.
does it overhang past the bearing rollers? perhaps cutting it short and adding a clip might be a good idea? or maybe cutting it for a key? did you ever try the green loctite?
Brian
I've tried green loctite. Still walks.
Maybe that combined with the tires spinning thru 3 gears *trying to grip* then acting like an impact gun on the helical ring/pinion thorwing axial vibrations into the shaft, shaking the race off?
:needpics1:
LOL, I have some pics, still on the camera tho...
I've had two races work off and fully expect this one to as well. Have you looked really really close at your TIG tacks? If you aren't pre-heating and then controlling the cool I would suspect they would have a fine crack in them with the high carbon content of the race and shaft. At least that has been my experience.
JT, I think you know the answer to fix this, hehehehe, :faint:
My first tacks may have as I purposely tried to put a tiny tack on them and not get too much heat into the race. This time I tacked them and re-hit them with some more heat and filler rod...
---------- Post added at 12:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:25 PM ----------
Put a heavier grenade in it, like SebringLX's "bulletproof" automatic? No thanks :thumb:
I cant speak for his but on the two I looked at the bearing was riding more towards the end of the shaft/race. Casting variations probably do have an effect though on where it rides.
Not sure if you could put a shim behind the bearing between it and that plastic oil feeder so it would sit further out ?
Turn the engine 90* and put in the big boy transmission :D
Attachment 33959
I would LOVE to fogure out how to put a Lenco in it... pulling levers is badass...
---------- Post added at 05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:47 PM ----------
Maybe if I lost an arm or leg or senses :thumb:
I've noticed lately you want to work on everything with a hammer, LOL are you a F*rd guy in disguise? ;)
JT, you're running the 568, right?