1. Turbo & Intercooler Systems
  2. How-To: Create a bracket for your G-Valve on the cheap!

Tired of having your G-Valve boost controller bounce around loosely in your engine bay? I was. I was also tired of having to reach underneath the intake between the throttle body and the brake booster just to adjust my boost levels. Not to mention dealing with the countless pointy pieces on electric connectors and bits and pieces of hardware. So, I thought to remedy that situation as well as create this write-up with pics! The total price and install time, minus the price of the G-Valve (since you already have one), is about 20 minutes and 5 dollars.

On to the write-up!

1. First up, this is what you can expect to see if you have a G-Valve that's loosely installed between the turbo and wastegate canister. It basically lies on the lower charge pipe and flops around, and is a bit tricky to get to when you want to adjust your boost levels.

2. Here's your real first step, and as far as I know is only available on 2-piece intakes. Locate on the elbow of the intake manifold, where the AIS/TPS sensors go into the throttle body, a small section of metal that juts outward. There is a bolt hole that is open.

3. Next, gather your parts. I found these parts lying around my garage. They consist of one(1) 13mm bolt that's about 3 inches long, two(2) washers, one(1) oversized nut that can slide freely on the bolt to be used as a spacer, a small section of muffler strap, one(1) nut that fits the bolt, and a can of black high-temp BBQ pit paint. Pictured with the parts is my G-Valve.

4. This step is pretty easy. Find a clear spot or some old cardboard and paint your pieces that you want to be black, well... black.

5. Figure out which way you want your G-Valve to be oriented. I decided to have the bent part, which goes to the wastegate canister, pointed toward the front of the car. The ball end, which goes to the compressor side of the turbo, is pointed toward the firewall. This allows easy access the the knurled knob for adjusting the boost level, but it is all personal preference.

6. Time for assembly. Slip the muffler strap piece over the G-Valve. Make sure that it is oriented correctly or you'll have to take it apart when you go to put it in the car.

7. Next up is to place a washer over the top hole and then put the bolt through. I decided not to paint the washer because it was nice and shiny.

8. Now take the other washer and the oversized nut and put them on the bottom side of the bolt. Remember that these are supposed to be able to slide over the bolt with ease, but not ridiculously big.

9. Take the nut that fits on the bolt and snug everything up. As you tighten the nut, it closes the gap on the muffler strap keeping the G-Valve in place.

10. Here is the picture of my engine bay without the G-Valve bracket.

11. Find the little bolt hole that was pictured on number 2 that's near the elbow on the intake manifold and screw the bracket assembly into it. After it is started, snug it down with a wrench or socket. Mine happened to be a 13mm, so that's what I used.

12. And finally, hook up the vacuum lines to the G-Valve. You can put small zip ties on the ends to ensure the lines don't pop off during boost levels. Now your G-Valve isn't flopping around and is easily accessible anytime you want to raise or lower your boost level. It also looks pretty nifty!

Thanks for reading!

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