24v duster - input? :D [Archive]

Shadow24

06-29-2008, 08:47 AM

forgot i had this thread lol. its been a while, but heres a link to my updates thread. Ill start double posting here too.

24v Updates thread (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f69/136968-p-body-24v-updates.html)

Latest update:

got a bit done yesterday, pulled the motor off the engine stand, installed the blockoff for the distributor, put the new flywheel on and put my clutch together. also got the trans bolted to the motor and did some more spray painting of the engine bay. should have that done soon and be able to get the motor installed. :D

Blockoff - had to slot one side a bit more to get adequate sealage
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300030.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0618082031.jpg

Brand new flywheel (yay for "made in china for perfection clutches")
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300031.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300032.jpg

Painted grill and partial engine bay (i did more but my camera batteries died :( )
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300033.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300034.jpg

Putting engine and trans together
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300035.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300036.jpg

inmyshadow

06-29-2008, 12:28 PM

While you got the whole thing apart again.

What about using this?

http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/g5023.html

I installed a hondata gasket similar to this on my neon. Worked out quite well.

Shadow24

06-29-2008, 01:17 PM

Ill think about it. i have some other things id like to do first (rear suspension, rust fix and paint). i may try that at a later date when i have some $$$ ot spare, ive also pulled the intake so many times, its a 5 minute job to pull it and put it back on :)

Ondonti

07-03-2008, 06:04 PM

While you got the whole thing apart again.

What about using this?

http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/g5023.html

I installed a hondata gasket similar to this on my neon. Worked out quite well.

He has been screwing a lot of people lately with messed up shifter bushings, poorly cut spacers (that dont line up properly) so its just more of the same from him the last 6+ years. According to his website he seems to set up booths at local shows. Its a good thing I didnt know so I could have informed some dissatisfied customers.

There is probably a 3g vendor who can hook up 24vshadow and if there isnt then it means rolling the cheaterh dice.

Shadow24

07-06-2008, 12:09 AM

well, got a lot done today, didn't get it all together but im getting REALLY close :) went to the J-yard this morning and got the connector i needed to wire up the eclipse alternator and scored a 2.5l lower intake manifold with injectors and injector wiring clips for $31.80. the 2.5 ran the same style injectors as the 360cc VR4 injectors i bought. the 3.0 injector bosses are taller to fit the smaller injectors, but the 2.5 LIM bolts right in :) yay for accumulating parts for the S/C plan

as for the car, got the front motor mount in, front header, oil filter relocation adapter and oil filter, mounted the PS pump and belt, and the CORRECT alternator and belt for the motor (although im still working on deciphering which wires i need to get it to work correctly, i think i got it but...see pic below) got both axles in, fixed a broken grease fitting on my rivers side ball joint (whats the interval for greasing those and the tierods anyways?) put a circlip (e-clip) on the side shifter cable to keep it from popping off, the top one stays on fine so no need to worry there. i think thats about it for today...

i dont have much left to put back together part-wise, and then all thats left is re-doing the wiring and adding fluids (amsoil full synth 5w30 in the motor and regular castrol 5w30 in the trans, and 50/50 coolant) and i should be able to fire her up :)

Heres a pic of the two injector bosses, 2.5 on top, 3.0 below
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300041.jpg

Alternator wiring - i think all i need are straight 12v, and switched 12v to the regulator and the output wire. i believe the 2 wires going to the ECU are for the OBD-II monitoring/volt gauge on the eclipse but im not sure....
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300042.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300043.jpg

and the new alternator installed, with more clearance to the radiator!
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300044.jpg

injectors, VR4 360cc on right, avenger 190cc on left. Look similar maybe?
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300045.jpg

360s installed on the 2.5 mani
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300048.jpg

Sroufe7

08-10-2008, 12:40 AM

Not sure if anyone has said or not...but the VR4 injectors are low imp. compared to the injectors from the 3G that are high. But I don't think it matters for you, since you are running the MS.

Shadow24

08-10-2008, 02:30 PM

yeah, i know they are low impedance, but MS can handle either (with or without a resistor pack depending). ill probably add a resistor pack and run like tehy are high impedance rather than screwing with PWM tuning but who knows

Shadow24

08-22-2008, 10:04 PM

well, got some good and bad news:

Good News - Im OK, save for some whiplash and soreness

Bad News - was in an accident going to work Yesterday morning. Went around a blind corner that ive taken every morning for the last 4 summers, cruising along as usual. come around the corner and there is a GMC 1500 parked in my lane facing the wrong way and 3 cars passing him in the oncoming lane. I.E. a wall of cars. i didnt have much for options: cut off the oncoming traffic and go off a 3' ditch/ledge into a field, go to the right and hit a tree or telephone pole, or try and stop. I laid on the brakes and locked em up (was in panic mode so i didnt think to ease up to get traction and steering back) so i ended up hitting this truck head on at maybe 25mph (gestimate, wasnt looking at the speedo when i hit).

Luckly i had the new 215/60 tires on (more traction) and the GMC had a minute-hitch plow hitch that was right level with the steel bumper brace. After i hit, there were no fluids on the ground and the car still runs ok. i didnt run it long because i want to look it over first. The truck had a few scratches and a small crack in the plastic valence but was 100% fine other than that. (the driver and passenger were DPW workers and were in the front yard talking to someone so there wasnt anyone in the truck)

well, the cops show up and one younger cop (25-30ish) is doing the paperwork. He could tell by the rubber stripes i left that i wasnt going 35mph (i was probably doing 55-65mph or so) but since the truck had no damage and my car was noticeably the worse off, he didnt give me a ticket. I also dont have collision so the repair bill is on my head :( As far as i can tell the DPW guy didnt get a ticket either, probably because DPW and the police are all buddy-buddy anyways.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080747a.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080747.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080748a.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080748b.jpg

Stupid idiot had no damage!
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080748.jpg

Good news from today though, although still sore and achy, i got parts for 181 (hood, both fenders, headlights, headlight support, grill and bumper) and as of 6pm today, "Lucy" is all back together and running well. Im loading her up in the morning and heading 400 miles to school so with me luck

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/DSCN0859.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/DSCN0866.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/DSCN0869.jpg

Frank

08-23-2008, 08:09 AM

Shouldn't that be his fault?

Shadow24

08-23-2008, 09:23 PM

probably, but i was going a bit fast. AFAICT he was buddy buddy with the cops so he probably didnt get a ticket. if it was a town truck, theres no way id win with an insurance claim. if it was a personal truck, i might have a shot.

ive had hit and miss luck lately. Lucy got me to school fine (400 miles @ 27mpg) but decided to skip a tooth or two on the timing belt going to dinner. (and i couldnt fit my tools to bring to school either). so now Lucy is at a Mechanics out here and ill probably find out monday or so whats going on. i THINK that one of the idler pulleys i replaced might have come loose in the accident and finally loosened enough to throw the belt off tonight. *sigh* if its not one thing, its another....

Big_P

08-31-2008, 11:35 PM

Jesus Christ man you're only in Connecticut?! I'm in RI! Where are you going to school?

Shadow24

09-01-2008, 08:56 AM

im in Windsor Locks, by Bradley Airport. Im also in Webster MA alot during the summer :-p (got a summer place on Webster Lake)

dodgeshadowchik

09-01-2008, 09:52 AM

cool that u didnt get a ticket! looks like the car wasnt damaged too much, which is good! glad to see you aready got the new parts installed! :)

Shadow24

09-01-2008, 09:57 AM

Thanks :) now as soon as teh mechanic fixes teh timing belt, i should be back at teh track trying to beat my 14.92 :-p (got better tires now too and stiffer rear shocks)

inmyshadow

09-01-2008, 10:12 AM

At least a regular hood clears the motor. Seems finding a 3.0 hood is getting tougher.

Shadow24

09-01-2008, 10:43 AM

yeah, not many v6 P-bodies in the J-yards around me (or that i could find)

Shadow24

09-02-2008, 01:19 PM

bad news :( i need another motor. The timing belt jumped 1/4 of a cam turn and the motor has NO compression on the front bank, and only 70psi on cyl 1. go figure, i dont have my tools here or the means to get (physically) another motor. ill have to see what i can do, i think i can get a motor near home for $350, and have my dad bring it up along with my tools. might take the weekend, but i bet i can swap the motor pretty quick with some tools and help but we'll see.

so much for running a rebuilt motor and all that *shrug* if its not one thing its another.... :-/

Shadow24

09-19-2008, 11:45 PM

well, got the heads off today. definitely had bent valves. ALL the intake valves were bent and at least the exhaust valves on 1 and 4. ill probably be ably to get the heads on the car tomorrow and maybe get a pop and a bang out of Lucy.

front head
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300073.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300072.jpg
front pistons
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300074.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300075.jpg
rear pistons
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300076.jpg
headless motor
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300077.jpg

Shadow24

10-11-2008, 10:21 AM

went to the last friday test and tune for the year and did fairly well. the new tires had good grip and the car ran really well. on the 6th run i started shifting higher instead of at 6000 i normally did. here are the times.

15.217@92.13
15.124@91.91
15.410@92.94
16.420@92.82 - bogged at the line
15.003@92.84
14.994@93.66 - first run shifting at 6500-6700ish, crossing the line in 3rd, remaining runs the same
14.858@93.54
14.876@93.73
14.942@93.82
15.024@93.73
14.847@94.29 - fastest run of the night
14.888@93.89
15.106@94.11
14.955@94.27
14.896@94.61
15.046@94.27
14.919@94.48
14.865@94.49

there were a bunch of hondas and the like there last night, i ate a bunch of them for dinner. Ran against a Cobalt (modded/re-tuned model, whatever is just below the SS) he was running about the same as i was, whoever got the better launch usually won. There was one honda i did respect, he was a late 20s guy that wasnt a ricer and his EG6 hatch was on par with my car for times. same thing, swapping who won back and forth. Ate a 2nd gen eclipse (N/A though) by a good 2 seconds as well.

The most memorable run of the night was going up against an IROC-Z camaro, the driver and passenger gave me that chuckling nod as we lined up. he beat me off the line, but i caught him by half track and passed him on the big end. The look on their faces as i pulled past them was PRICELESS!! :D The driver flipped me off as i passed him but at the pull off wanted to know what i had, if i had a turbo or something. he couldnt believe he got his --- handed to him by a N/A 6-banger!

the next to last run was against another honda driver said he had been wanting to run me all night. i whooped him bad as well. After the last run of the night i saw 2 hondas and the 2nd gen eclipse parked, chatting and i stopped to say hi (one honda was the one who wanted to race me all night) first thing they asked was if i had a 2.2 or 2.5 turbo. shoulda seen their faces when i popped the hood and told them it was an N/A v6 :) too bad the eclipse sounded like it had rod knock as it left....*shrug*

the only thing that "broke" at the track tonight was the cheap patchwork flexpipe on my exhaust. 2nd launch of teh night it sheard on me. so i was running no muffler all night and on th eway home at 11:30pm. just lucky i didnt get a noise violation lol. Lucy did me proud tonight, ill have to give her a bath or something perhaps...

as for the car, shifting later saved me a couple tenths especially eliminating a shift. running that high in 1st and 2nd i dont notice a power loss, but in 3rd, as i hit about 6200 or so i can feel it lose some power. The power loss is less than the time lost in hitting 4th gear though. i also reliably picked up about 2mph on my trap speeds. That and i was running a combined weight (me and the car plus all the junk in it) of 3084lbs. that means without the junk and my heavy butt in the car, its about 2800lbs. not too shabby. I also had 5 or 6 different people come up to me give me props for my car and how it was running despite how it looked. That also made the night really good.

Ran into a turbo Hayabusa there as well, and during a 45 minute wait for a track cleanup, talked with the guy. he was running megasquirt on the bike and doing 8.5 second passes to boot! Its nice to see there fast vehicles with the DIY mindset.

turbovanman²

10-20-2008, 08:41 AM

Sounds like you had fun, :thumb:

Did you just fix the heads?

Shadow24

10-20-2008, 05:54 PM

im going to fix the old heads and build them up for more rpms and power.

i did have a blast, cant wait to go again when the track opens (or if i can make it on sunday)

dodgeshadowchik

10-20-2008, 06:42 PM

not bad at all! :) nice job beating up on people!

Ondonti

10-23-2008, 03:05 AM

im going to fix the old heads and build them up for more rpms and power.

i did have a blast, cant wait to go again when the track opens (or if i can make it on sunday)

If you find better rockers/lifters, holla at cha boi.

Shadow24

10-23-2008, 01:03 PM

what do you need better rockers and lifters for? :) there a fatigue/failure problem with our rockers at higher RPMs? i was thinking about seeing if i could mill out the rockers to take the larger DOHC lash adjusters :) (just thought of that now)

Shadow24

02-26-2009, 11:54 PM

well, its been a while since ive posted on this thread, i keep forgetting i have this one lol. not too much is new ATM, except im now located in columbus OH. Looking forward to the track opening up so i can see what a better tune does at the track (anyone want to lent me some slicks to try? :D) im still trying to accumulate parts for my supercharger install. i still need an intercooler and intercooler piping/couplers plus fab work to get it done. im hoping to have it done sometime this summer if all goes well

i DID snag a pair of fidanza cam gears for the 24v out from under the nose of 3 n00b ebayers today :) (sniping is SO much fun lol) $67 shipped no less. mind you these usually go for $120 - $130 EACH :partywoot:

i also found out that one of my rear wheel bearings is loose, im going to snug them both up tomorrow before driving 70 miles to see my g/f. hopefully that's the root of my on/off throttle lane changing

Shadow24

02-28-2009, 07:09 PM

well, the rear wheel bearings are NOT the problem. snugged them up but it didn't change the worsening on/off throttle issue. i believe my poly-filled right motor mount is giving up the ghost and moving on me creating the changing steering geometry.

I tried to find one at the J-yard today but they were all dead or melted from the torch used to pull the motors. i really don't want to buy a new one as they are $180 cause of the cast aluminum casing etc. i DID score

1) a hump 3.0 hood in great shape (although riceboy painted silver with a rattle can but it will work for now til Lucy gets a makeover this summer)
2) stock P-body foglight mounts and lights (although the lights got painted over by said riceboy)
3) a nice 93 A543 transmission with front mount bracket,
4) starter (nippondeso style, smaller than my bosch)
5) drivers side A-arm to replace my current one with a sloppy ball joint hole,
6) left front headlight with INTACT adjuster frame (mine is messed up and the light points up ant a 30* angle )
7) passenger side view mirror

all for $130 (i was going to grab the ground effects off the car, but it woulda been a PITA to pull all the pop rivets and i wasn't sure of the look so...(they are on a silver/black sundance at Moyers junkyard in crestline OH if anyone wants them lol)

Shadow24

03-02-2009, 10:12 AM

well, figured out that the right motor mount is dead. got a prothane insert on the way (24v mount, not a TD one). going to see if that cures my issues next weekend.

swapped my right headlight housing for a better J-yard one and got it adjusted so i can actiually SEE at night lol

woulda replaced my cracked and wobbling right mirror except i forgot to take it out of my g/f's friend's truck lol, that'll be next weekend too. I may go look at the other headlight housing at the J-yard and see about nabbing a headboard to do a headliner fix on "Lucy"

hopefully going to have the idle valve installed soon as well to help with cold start/warmup

not much else going on at the moment doe to lack of funds :(

nmw2006

03-03-2009, 12:33 PM

Nice finds :P

I use Moyer's whenever i need wierd parts..they always seem to give pretty good deals.

Gonna have to meet you sometime since you are now a hour away from me.

Gonna give the MS another shot coming up this weekend or so if its warm.

Good luck on getting your S/C project going.

Shadow24

03-03-2009, 12:40 PM

thanks, im usually up in Lexington on the weekend visiting my g/f :) otherwise im down in Columbus for work

shoot me a PM or something if your in the area

Shadow24

03-04-2009, 05:08 PM

just got my cam gears in :) they are nice and light and the machining is pretty good. can't wait to couple these with a set of regrinds in my 24v motor... Also got my new EDIS module so i can see if that cures the phantom cutout

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/S7300165.jpg

Shadow24

03-09-2009, 01:01 AM

well, spent some quality time with lucy this weekend...

pulled the old mount out and put the the new prothane inserts in. however, this necessitated putting Lucy under the knife as the original Deyeme mount had the bolt hole off center and the prothane (and stock) mounts have the bolt hole centerd. since the holes in the mounts were not far enough apart from the new one i would have had to drill, i had to weld the old holes up, grind them flat and re-drill for a new mount hole.

this cures SOME of the the on/off throttle steering issue. it is noticibly reduced but not gone. holding the steering wheel still and constant throttle Lucy will still skitter left and right within the lane. im suspecting a bad tie rod at this point as there isn't much left in the front suspension that HASN'T been fixed :banghead: (well, they WERE replaced 3 years ago by the school shop, but im inclined NOT to trust their work these days...)

Also got a short vid of the bearing noises my transmission is making. they only go away when i depress the clutch (and it isn't ALWAYS nosy like that, sometimes more sometimes not at all...)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_s7300179.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=s7300179.flv)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300166.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300167.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300168.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300169.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300171.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300172.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300173.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300174.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300175.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300176.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300178.jpg

Shadow24

07-26-2009, 08:03 PM

Well, 2.5 days later, "Lucy" has the rebuilt transmission w/ LSD, new clutch, aluminum flywheel and my summer tires. a HUGE thank you is in order for Nathan (aka nmw2006 on TM) for helping out saturday and sunday. the trans swap and everything would not have gone as fast or as smoothly as it did. Nathan was also the one that discovered the issue with the PP bolts

Heres my old slipping 4-puck. the PP side was greased up and the total disc thickness measured .300", the new 6-puck was .345" the stock flywheel and pp did show some signs of wear, but nothing drastic. I also had to switch back to the shorter clutch cable for the 92 transmission to work.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300227-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300226.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300232.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300231.jpg

In addition, i got the pre-load set on the differential to .005 (spec is .001 - .01) and the LSD doesn't rattle and has some pre-load in it. All the bolts got the appropriate loctite on reassembly as well.

i did find another issue with ARP hardware and the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. the pressure plate bolts BOTTOMED OUT! The flywheel bolts actually cleared the TU 6-puck clutch with NO interference, but i had to grind about 1/4ish off the PP bolts to get them to clamp the PP correctly.

Prior to shortening the bolts:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300229.jpg

After shortening the bolts:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300230.jpg

I have a few misc issues i need to sort out as well. on the way home, Lucy acted up when i stopped to get a new Intake Air Temperature sensor (which is causing the MS to randomly add or take fuel away based on the erratic -40 to 180+ temperature fluctuations) she seemed like she had dropped a few cylinders, so $70ish and 4 hours later, (compression tester, sensor, pliers, O2 safe silicon and 4 spark plugs later) it turned out to be a loose 12v supply to one of the injector banks.

I now have the new relay board and waterproof case, so stay tuned for the next update: MS rewire!

the real killer will be waiting the 500+ mile break-in period of the new clutch before beating on it and taking "Lucy" to the track.

I do have to say the TU 6-puck and purple PP are REALLY NICE! pedal effort is less than the HD PP i had with the 4-puck and the 6-puck is VERY drivable, it has less chatter and is more like an OEM feel than the 4-puck i had. I just have to get used to the faster rev-ability of the aluminum flywheel on starting and shifting.

Also, the new transmission shifts very well, its very tight. first and second are a lot less picky than before and 3,4 and 5 slide in quite easily even on hard acceleration. it was definitely worth the wait. Just have to get used to the LSD and all the new driving quirks :)

Shadow24

12-19-2011, 11:07 AM

ok, i know this is like zombie thread resurection but

got a little more done today. finished up working on the K-frame, A arms and sway bar. 1 coat POR-15 and 2 coats Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black :) Unfortunately, probably wont get much more done on the chassis until springtime. Hoping to get more work on the motor done though: cams, valve springs, new valves and valve stem seals in by spare heads to swap onto my motor. Also want to check on the clutch and make sure all's ok there. possibly get the S/C mount and such fabbed up as well.
POR-15, ready for chassis black
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_161749.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_170935.jpg
first coat satin black
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_172408.jpg
2nd coat semi-dry
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_204804.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_204849.jpg

Shadow24

12-20-2011, 12:42 PM

got the k-frame and front suspension assembled enough to roll her outside for the winter... http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111219_152532.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111219_201440.jpg

Sundance 6g72

12-20-2011, 03:55 PM

How do you plan on storeing it for the winter? Any special tricks?

Shadow24

12-20-2011, 09:23 PM

no special tricks...just gonna bear the weather and see. She's getting re-painted in the spring anyways. going to spend the time trying to work on the motor and getting other components ready for assembly when the weather breaks (i.e. SS exhaust, motor's top end, Supercharger mount and belt routing, dash layout and EMS/Engine/Gauges wiring diagram)

Sundance 6g72

12-20-2011, 09:26 PM

wooo cant wait to see it superchaged

Ondonti

12-21-2011, 06:27 AM

Vigo was saying to put tarp underneath and then something in the middle of the tarp to prevent puddling. Apparently that is all to prevent humidity from building up under the car. I need to do this to my Starlet which is sitting on grass.

Sundance 6g72

12-21-2011, 12:07 PM

yeah i heard the same thing. either let the snow pile up or seal the car correct with a tarp to prevent humidity. dont just put a tarp over it.

Shadow24

12-21-2011, 01:06 PM

Ondonti

12-21-2011, 04:57 PM

Putting a tarp over my Duster with its missing rear hatch window was probably the worst thing I have ever done to the car. EVERYTHING corroded or molded.

bond_bbs

12-30-2011, 01:29 PM

yeah, no tarp over or under, just gonna get the weather. Car's going to be stripped and painted in the spring anyways. Plus POR-15 and undercoating as well. A couple months more sitting in the grass won't kill it :)

Definitely not. Providing any grass doesn't grow up into it, and nothing takes up home inside, you should be good. That POR-15 is fantastic stuff, that's for sure.

Shadow24

12-31-2011, 10:32 AM

Well, re-read the supercharged book.. I think i'll stay with stock cams for the time being. supposedly stock type cams work fairly well for a blower setup. I figure I'll see what happens and go from there.

I did get another shiny bit for the car yesterday though... adapter for the BOV/Recirc valve.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111230_195746.jpg

Ondonti

12-31-2011, 03:44 PM

which valve are you going to run?

Shadow24

12-31-2011, 03:48 PM

I'm getting an RFL type, but going to recirc to before the blower to reduce pumping losses at cruise...i THINK it'll work and for $50, its a heck of a lot cheaper than a supercharger specific recirc valve from Magnuson or the like

bond_bbs

01-02-2012, 07:07 PM

Used OEM Subaru Bypass valves can be had for cheap, are pretty leak resistant and are good to over 20lbs. Could be option at least for the price conscience.

Ondonti

01-03-2012, 04:07 AM

His BOV will have to vent boost when the throttle is closed.

Shadow24

01-03-2012, 09:34 AM

His BOV will have to vent boost when the throttle is closed.

not necessarily. The plan is to have the S/C AFTER the throttle. The BOV will then only act as a recirculation valve on part throttle to reduce the pumping losses on the S/C to near 0. this is done by allowing the minor vacuum boost created at part throttle to be recirculated through the S/C rather than "boosting" in vacuum (e.g. 15" after throttle, 10" after S/C). In this kind of setup, no boost is ever vented to atmosphere.

c2xejk

01-03-2012, 01:47 PM

Avoiding the BOV venting to atmosphere is only needed in a MAF setup.

Sundance 6g72

01-03-2012, 01:50 PM

hes not trying to prevent losing metered air, he want to reduce "pumping loss"

idk what that is though :(

Shadow24

01-03-2012, 01:57 PM

Sundance 6G72 has got the gist of the idea.

In a roots supercharged setup with the throttle BEFORE the supercharger there exists a condition at partial throttle where the supercharger is "boosting" in vacuum. At cruise, if you were not running a recirculation valve and measured the vacuum before and after the supercharger you would have different values such as 15" vacuum between the throttle and the supercharger and 10" vacuum between the supercharger and the motor. This is the "boosting" vacuum effect, and actually has the supercharger doing work and using power to generate the "boost" from 15" to 10" vacuum using more fuel and power.

The recirculation valve helps eliminate this condition by allowing the supercharger to "re-breathe" the boosted air, and nearly equalizing the vacuum before and after the supercharger. This in essence also puts the supercharger itself into vacuum causing it to only need a bare fraction of power to rotate.

As soon as your throttle opens enough to warrant boost (i.e. 0 vacuum or thereabouts), the valve closes and allows the supercharger output to be dedicated to the engine and produce boost.

Hope this helps :)

Ondonti

01-04-2012, 05:11 AM

Avoiding the BOV venting to atmosphere is only needed in a MAF setup. With this^^ not sure why it matters what air the supercharger ingests. All you do is increase inlet charge temps during cruising. Non recir would need a filter though unless you really trust the valve. Wonder if increased inlet temps during cruising would help mileage thanks to better atomization? Probably not noticeably.

Shadow24

01-04-2012, 09:33 AM

with a MAF setup, if your venting to atmo AFTER the MAF, the computer already calculated for the air you just dumped causing bad irregularities in the AFR ratio.

On my setup, the marginal intake temp increase from recirculating air should not matter due to the honking big I/C I'll be running.

c2xejk

01-04-2012, 01:24 PM

With this^^ not sure why it matters what air the supercharger ingests. All you do is increase inlet charge temps during cruising. Non recir would need a filter though unless you really trust the valve. Wonder if increased inlet temps during cruising would help mileage thanks to better atomization? Probably not noticeably.

Not sure if it is true with this specific setup, but generally you want to put a filter on a BOV vented to atmosphere because they can open under some light throttle conditions and pull in air...

Sundance 6g72

01-04-2012, 02:45 PM

mine opens under vacuum at idle and im sure while im cruising. my buddies eclipse gsx did not though.. he had a greddy rs. He didnt recirculate it but it also didnt stay open so his car ran fine which was odd because normally they run like trash with an open bov.

Shadow24

01-04-2012, 07:18 PM

if your BOV is opening under vacuum and isn't recirculating, you have a problem. You'll be sucking in unmetered air and its probably messing with throttle response and fueling.

Sundance 6g72

01-04-2012, 07:51 PM

not with speed density...

Shadow24

03-07-2012, 08:06 AM

Finally starting to work on Lucy again this spring. I potentially have 2 jobs that may pan out, (Austin, TX and Boston, MA) so i may need my wheels back ASAP. Since I'm switching all my go-fast goodies into a rust free shell and doing a complete re-wire, I ran into a couple questions.

1) A/C thermo switch: I AM keeping AC in the new body one way or another. the current plan is to use the regular A/C switch in-car, through a thermo switch, WOT cutout relay and the appropriate pressure switches. However, I don't think I can use the stock Thermo-switch (3-wire spike probe thingy in the condenser box). Anyone have any ideas on what would be a workable thermo switch? It would be used to make sure the Condenser in the car doesn't ice up. I was thinking a cycle range of normally closed, opening at 40* and closing at 50* switch. Catch is, I can't find squat that meets those parameters :(

Also, if I can use the stock probe that would be great (less cost etc).

2) Since I'm doing a full dash replacement with aftermarket gauges, I have been trying to find what the fuel sending unit resistance range is for the 92-94 P-bodies. I only found one entry in my searching last night which indicated a possible range of: 100ohms at empty, and 0-ohms full. Can anybody confirm this?

Thanks!

Sundance 6g72

03-07-2012, 09:44 AM

how does one test the fuel sending unit's ohms?

Shadow24

03-07-2012, 10:08 AM

With an ohm meter :)

you take readings at the UP position (Full) and the down position (empty) and that gives you the range. Call me lazy, but I won't be able to pull a pump/sending unit for a couple weeks and was hoping someone knew the range.

Ondonti

03-08-2012, 05:49 AM

Standard Chrysler range I believe. That is what I have in my 12 gallon cell but I don't know that I trust it at this point. Never drove it enough to figure out what markings equate to what actual fuel level. OEM seems to be 2/3 tank at 3/4 indicated and 1/3 tank at 1/4 indicated or something like that. My cell doesn't have 1/3 tank at 1/4 indicated, it has fill it right now from what I remember.

Shadow24

03-12-2012, 06:41 AM

Well, the black shell is now officially Lucy 2.0.... welded in the passenger side motor mount brackets. REALLY welded them in this time. Previous welds hardly had any penetration to the frame rail (not my welding that time). I swear you probably could lift that side of the car with those mounts.

Also started a template for the dash replacement. I think I need to order a couple mor gauges (not only to match) but due to size constraints.

Ready to weld
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120311_110712.jpg

rear bracket
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120311_115324.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120311_115333.jpg

Front Bracket
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120311_122044.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120311_122053.jpg

Finished and primed
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120311_130614.jpg

Next step is getting the engine bay ready to paint!

Ondonti

03-13-2012, 05:23 AM

Guages are a bit frustrating with these cars. I think I will eventually source my speedo signal from a gps unit.

Shadow24

03-13-2012, 07:03 AM

Speedo actually wasn't that hard. Nabbed a summit 160mph unit NIB from Craigslist for about half price. Programmable for different wheel sizes (push button, drive 1 mile, push button again and done). http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2970/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2970/)

paduster

03-13-2012, 04:46 PM

what if u dont have a speedo like going to awd with most t cases we use can we use a abs sensor with that gauge

Shadow24

03-19-2012, 07:06 AM

well, only got the dash replacement mockup done this weekend. Ended up working on the other cars most of the weekend. End goal is to have all gauges (except speedo and afr) the same as the black w/ blue glow (glowshift black 7 color series). Much less light pollution for night driving than my current Faze full face illuminated gauges....

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120318_175438.jpg

Sundance 6g72

03-19-2012, 12:18 PM

that will look gtood

Shadow24

05-05-2012, 09:45 PM

Update from yesterday/today:

Yesterday -
so, today starts a frantic 7 day rush to re-assemble Lucy. 7 days to paint the engine bay, 5-sp swap the chassis, re-wire the front end of the car, and make sure she still runs...
got 90% of the engine bay scuffed up. Hoping to primer it tomorrow and color it sunday. Also POR-15'd the fuel filler tube to stave off rust. Lastly, just about got the 5-speed peddle-box swapped in. just need to get it aligned with the brake booster and tighten it up!

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120504_101354.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120504_115440.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120504_130430.jpg

Today -

well, actually got the primer laid down today. would have done the color too but had to attend a wedding. Should be able to spray the color tomorrow after lighly hitting the primer with some steel wool.

Air dryer and hose run from compressor

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_134156.jpg

Ready for papering
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_130414.jpg

papered

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_141330.jpg

First coat of primer
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_150230.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_151618.jpg

2nd coat of primer
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_152549.jpg

Sundance 6g72

05-06-2012, 12:16 AM

ballin!

Shadow24

05-06-2012, 09:03 AM

took a closer look at the primer this morning. Got a bit of orange peel effect on the cured primer. We think it was due to 2 things: using a medium reducer on such a warm day (high 70s-80ish) and we didn't have the exact correct hardener for the primer. Its OK though, I kinda like the effect for the engine bay. Weather looks great today for laying the color too, sunny and warm. Just have to lay the color quickly as all we have is medium hardener...

Irocelectric93

05-06-2012, 08:37 PM

Are you using any kind of filter or drier when spraying? That could also cause your orange peel. Moisture in paint is no good. EDIT missed the post above stating Air dryer. My bad. Also what kind of speedometer is that in the picture above?

Shadow24

05-06-2012, 09:05 PM

irocelectric - yes, had a huge drier inline and a filter

got the color laid down. looks pretty good for TMAAW (Two monkeys and a wrench)!  Also POR-15'd the fuel tank and figured out how to put the GSS340 fuel pump in the stock hanger. Should be able to start re-assembly this afternoon. First coat of black http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_103040.jpg 2nd coat of black http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_111344.jpg POR-15'd fuel tank http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_121218.jpg Fuel pump http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_125250.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_125302.jpg

Finished reassembly of the fuel tank and got the fuel lines pre-bent for installation tomorrow.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_170816.jpg

ready to bend lines

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_171222.jpg

first line done - 3/8" feed

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_182507.jpg

both lines done 5/16" return

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_204134.jpg

Irocelectric93

05-06-2012, 10:30 PM

Lines look great. Never answered my question though. What kind of speedometer is that in the pic of your cluster mock up?

Ondonti

05-07-2012, 02:24 AM

My painting has never gone as well as yours but its nice to know what I can't accomplish can be made even better :P Never thought about drier. Never even researched what I did when I sprayed a trunk. drr.

Shadow24

05-07-2012, 08:38 AM

irocelectric - speedo is a summit racing gauge i nabbed NIB off of craigslist a while back.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2970/

Irocelectric93

05-07-2012, 11:29 AM

Cool cool. What style of lighting do they use? Do they use a standard bulb to make it whatever color you want?

Ondonti

05-07-2012, 03:00 PM

btw they have gps units that you can use to drive electronic speedos even when your oem stuff is gone :)

Shadow24

05-07-2012, 08:24 PM

the summit one is programmable... works off of any sensor that produces a pulse signal. push button, drive a mile, push button again = calibrated.

Sundance 6g72

05-07-2012, 11:28 PM

megasquirt III takes your gear ratio plus rpm to determine mph i think

Ondonti

05-08-2012, 05:24 AM

megasquirt III takes your gear ratio plus rpm to determine mph i think
I wish it had a traction control feature tucked into that crap.

Shadow24

05-08-2012, 10:49 PM

Unfortunately, no MS-III for me...yet. still too broke to upgrade.

Well, here's the update for the last two days: got the fuel lines, fuel filter tank and fill tube fully installed. Also replaced EVERY solid brake line in the whole car with copper-nickel alloy brake lines and brass fittings. Also added the 1" master cylinder for the eventual 4-wheel disc swap.

Since I was working on the brakes, i put new shoes on the rear and will be putting new pads on the front as well. I NEVER trust PO brake pads any more and its cheap insurance.

Completed the shifter cable setup for the 5-sp transmission and got the peddle box bolted in. Also got the power steering hoses ready for the install.

On the docket for tomorrow - stab the engine in, get the A/C adaption done, and start on the wiring and tidying up...hopefully with ant luck, should be good to go by Thursday.

Fuel lines installed

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_173931.jpg

Fuel tank and filler

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_114251.jpg

Fuel filter installed

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_173920.jpg

Brake line differences - top is OEM, bottom is CuNiFer

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_093703.jpg

Installed brake lines

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_171609.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_135531.jpg

Holes ready for shifter cables

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_212902.jpg

Engine bay ready for motor

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_215221.jpg

Digging the heart of lucy out of the piles of "stuff" its been buried under for the last year...

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_215828.jpg

Sundance 6g72

05-09-2012, 01:32 AM

:thumb:

Wiscoballer

05-09-2012, 05:25 AM

Looking great!

Shadow24

05-09-2012, 10:42 PM

got a fair bit done today. motor's in, axles and front brakes are done, A/C components are at a shop for modification and the fuel system is done (except for 2 clamps I need). Hopefully I can finish the physical re-assembly and get the wiring done tomorrow. If not, I'll have to shoot for physically complete and finish the wiring once me are in Massachusetts...

Motor installed. Fastest I've ever stabbed the motor into Lucy. Total time was about 30-45 minutes
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_153634.jpg

Look ma, no more distributor! (OEM block-off from a newer 3.0 in a Montero that uses a DIS system)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_122817.jpg

The easy (and cheap) way to mod the better fuel rails...tap the rails for direct 3/8" feed! no 5/16" restriction anymore. only restriction is on the return at the FPR, at least until I can either afford a good AFPR or figure out how to mod an OEM fitting FPR.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_165807.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_172222.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_182242.jpg

Lastly, I spaced the AC bracket off with washers as the mounting hole I used originally was an AC mount hole. Also modified the sensor bracket so the belt should clear it when returning to the OEM routing.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_222245.jpg

MC#4

05-09-2012, 11:13 PM

Awesome!

87turbodance

05-10-2012, 09:14 AM

Your car is looking really good! I'm envious. :)

Sundance 6g72

05-10-2012, 11:16 AM

everything looks really good

I wish it had a traction control feature tucked into that crap.

well its "supposed to" ... lol :confused:

Shadow24

05-21-2012, 01:30 PM

Update: In boston, but the car is not driveable. Got it assembled, but ran out of time to finish the re-wire. I'll hopefully be working on the re-wire on weekends as I have to travel to my Parents place from Boston (2-hr drive) to work on the car until I find a place to live out here. I did get the dash panel made and painted with Chassis black this weekend. Hopefully I can start wiring soon!

Hacked out
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120520_123943.jpg

"precision" bent tabs (i.e. a board and a rubber hammer)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120520_124246.jpg

painted
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120520_151047.jpg

Ondonti

05-21-2012, 03:01 PM

Vigo has been doing the super long trip to work on his cars thing forever. He never gets anything done!

Shadow24

05-22-2012, 04:19 PM

lol, I think i have a bit more motivation than he does...I'll be needing the car in short order to get to and from the commute place for my new job in Boston, MA.

Case in point, I'll be curling up with a good book this week (the wiring FSM) for a little light reading and planning lol

Ondonti

05-23-2012, 04:27 AM

What year is your FSM? Hated my 92 because it doesn't think P body 3.0 exists. Means I had to always be guessing.

Shadow24

05-23-2012, 07:13 AM

the FSM set i have is 93. A few mistakes here and there, but it at least acknowledges the 3.0 exists

Sundance 6g72

05-23-2012, 09:20 AM

haha suckers. the 93 fsm was spot on for me with everything.

Shadow24

05-23-2012, 09:24 AM

haha suckers. the 93 fsm was spot on for me with everything.

lol, the differences I'm talking about are super minor, tabelling the dash diagram WITH the tach as "without tachometer" and the one WITHOUT the tach as "with tachometer". Stuff that stands out as editorial issues. Only real issue I found was on the "with tachometer" diagram, someone forgot to draw a trace, but you can infer the trace's existence from the non tach diagram :) reasoning FTW

Sundance 6g72

05-23-2012, 09:26 AM

sounds like 10th grade geomatry class. and i thought that was a math class http://imgs.pbnation.com/smilies/runaway.gif

Shadow24

05-27-2012, 08:20 PM

Another update! Got the dash wired up and almost completely installed. Tied everything into the body harness and wires run for the 3 sensors not in the harness (oil press/temp and oil warning light).

Got replaced as solderer...the better half put me to shame soldering
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120526_182406.jpg

dash panel wiring pretty much ready for install
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120526_195511.jpg

So, which wire goes where? :)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120527_174611.jpg

Connected and pretty much installed (still need to put a few retaining screws in)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120527_180423.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120527_180451.jpg

Irocelectric93

05-28-2012, 07:56 AM

My cluster uses the same turn signals lol :D

Shadow24

05-28-2012, 06:50 PM

got more of the wiring done. Wired the A-pillar gauges to the same sources/grounds as the dash gauges. this SHOULD eliminate any voltage differences on source or ground planes. Also wired up most of the gauge sensors. Using a sandwich adapter for the 3 oil based sensors.

sandwich adapter
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120528_134447.jpg

Completed dash/A-pillar
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120528_134808.jpg

paduster

05-28-2012, 07:31 PM

looking good man i am still wondering if you could run that speedo off a abs sensor though

Sundance 6g72

05-28-2012, 08:55 PM

loving the pillar pod. i might look into something similar.

Shadow24

05-29-2012, 06:59 AM

paduster - why the ABS sensor? why not the reular speed sensor? (and you probably could run the speedo off the ABS sensor. the pulse/mile range the gauge can handle is 4000 to 200,000)

Sundance6G72 - The A-pillar I have is a universal Sunpro one that I painted grey to match the interior. Its a small hack on install as it's held in with 3 self-tapping sheet metal screws...I may re-do it at some point for a cleaner install, but we'll see. Here's the link to the pilar pod on Summitracing.com http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUN-CP7549/

Ondonti

05-29-2012, 02:37 PM

Oil Pressure and Temp and what else? I like that sandwich adapter.

Shadow24

05-29-2012, 02:42 PM

Oil pressure sender for the gauge, Temp, and low pressure switch for big-arse warning light on the dash. (Jegs warning light kit, probably will replace the bulb with an LED the first time it blows). The sandwich adapter was like $26 from Glowshift, machined aluminum with 3 3/8" NPT ports. modular so it can adapt to multiple oil filter threads etc.

paduster

05-29-2012, 07:59 PM

[QUOTE=Shadow24;921255]paduster - why the ABS sensor? why not the reular speed sensor? (and you probably could run the speedo off the ABS sensor. the pulse/mile range the gauge can handle is 4000 to 200,000)

cause i was looking at the awd of a newer van that didnt have the speedo it used a sensor in the a604

Shadow24

05-29-2012, 09:29 PM

I suspected that might be the case. Ondonti also mentioned that there are GPS based units that interface with most speedo's these days too. you may want to look into that as well.

How many teeth are on an ABS tone wheel anyways? probably can crunch some easy #'s and see if its in the correct range for the speedo to read....

5280ft/mi * 12in/mi = 63360in/mi
205/55/R15 tires = 75" circumference
= 845 revs/mi
so take 845 * # of teeth on the ABS ring and thats your pulses/mi. I think it actually would work....

Shadow24

07-01-2012, 01:57 PM

Update: got the modded A/C parts! everything looks good and worked on the install a bit. Its a little tight, but i think I can make it work OK :) Also, not as pressed to get Lucy on the road anymore. we bought a new Mazda3 Skyactiv hatchback manual this past monday :-D, still need to name the new car...

new A/C pump on old lines
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-06-30_10-52-36_475.jpg

A/C pump bolted in
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-06-30_15-31-23_646.jpg

top view
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-06-30_15-31-37_164.jpg

Lucy's new home :)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-06-30_10-40-40_745.jpg

New ride:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/ResizedImage951340673335465.jpg

Ondonti

07-02-2012, 03:58 AM

How come the a/c line that goes by the passenger strut ALWAYS loses its paint?

Shadow24

07-02-2012, 09:39 AM

poor Mopar paint like usual?

I did realize yesterday that I totally lucked out. I can retain almost the entire Shadow A/C wiring as both pressure switches are still present and all I need to do is splice in the clutch and possibly a WOT cutout relay. :)

I do need to "modify" the fan mounting/fan on the radiator to clear the A/C hardlines though...more dremel time cutting plastic...

Shadow24

07-16-2012, 08:31 PM

I did get the Radiator, A/C condensor and fan to finally fit with the new compressor hardlines. Not a whole lot of clearance. I still need to tie back the A/C lines to clear the pully.

Can just clear the header...at least the header bleeds heat fairly quickly...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-07-16_18-30-52_8.jpg

Had to hack off the passenger radiator mounting stud and the lower passenger fan mount as well to get just enough clearance
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-07-16_18-31-25_404.jpg

A/C lines WILL clear the pully, just have to tie them back a bit...not sure how to keep the lines from abrading on the lower radiator support though...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-07-16_18-31-38_962.jpg

Shadow24

08-26-2012, 09:30 AM

So, working on putting Lucy 2.0 back together and found that one of the two inner sway bar brackets has one of the captive nuts cut out. (suspect the college that put the bushings in in the first place 5-6 years ago, didn't notice until this re-construction of the car). Anyone have any good Ideas on how to securely mount the bracket since there is now a nice square hole where the original nut was?

(FYi its a 92+ front suspension setup)

paduster

08-26-2012, 10:09 AM

Could always weld the hole shut drill and reta. Or put a bigger hole though the top and weld a nut there. There is always something u can do fabricate something lol

Shadow24

08-26-2012, 10:41 AM

thought about that, but unfortunately I don't have access to a welder anymore and the K-frame has already been POR-15'd and painted with Chassis-black...

I tried to find a captive nut, sort of like what the A-arm bolts use so it binds against the K-frame and lets me tighten it up but no luck there yet.

Spiritman

08-26-2012, 03:24 PM

i cant remember exactly what it looks like in there as i havent had mine apart for a while. but what about getting someone to weld a nut to say a 3" long peice of flat bar and put that above the hole? just an idea.

Shadow24

09-09-2012, 10:24 AM

Stuck again, still working on the wiring aspect at this point. I am trying to find a good place to mount the MS and relay board inside the cab, and I'm thinking in that pocket-well below the radio (only downside would/d be no room for cupholders anymore...)

Also, I'm trying to decide if I should run a bulkhead connector for the MS harness or just direct wire everything and run it through the Drivers-side wiring grommet by the shock tower...

decisions, decisions...

Shadow24

09-15-2012, 08:44 PM

so actually got to working on my MS mount plans. I'll be ditching the console bin and cup holders (boo...no cup holders anymore) and made up an aluminum panel to mount the MS, relay board and knock sense unit to. In order to accommodate the wiring and such, I hacked the bottom off the SRS module bracket and used the 4 studs where it would have attached to mount the legs of my plate. Also painted the top with chassis black to keep reflection down.

Next is to mount and wire up the MS, Knock sense and relay board so I can finish the engine wiring!

Hacked off SRS mount
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_13-34-04_414.jpg

plate and brackets (not bad for a dremel, drill and rubber mallet :) )
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_15-13-15_390.jpg

mocked up
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_15-47-29_762.jpg

painted
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_15-54-16_637.jpg

Sundance 6g72

09-16-2012, 02:56 AM

why not run a neon center consol and have the ms and relay board mounted under it? it will work and look really good.

Shadow24

09-16-2012, 08:18 AM

I may yet do that, but this 94 has a pass. side auto retracting slider seatbelt presently. I would like a hand e-brake at some point so we'll see

Part of the bonus with what I made is it cost me like $2 to make with leftover materials and such :)

Shadow24

09-20-2012, 08:21 PM

I has WELDER now! granted its a 110v 90A arc welder, but at least I can do regular and stainless steel now :). got it for $50 along with about 10lbs of 6013 rod. The wife also snagged a nice dresser from the neighbor of the guy selling the welder for free, so she was quite ok with the expenditure at that point. :)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-20_19-46-02_176_zpse663c079.jpg

Sundance 6g72

09-26-2012, 04:11 PM

$50 to fuse steel together is good with me. MY buddy dropped over a grand on a lincon mig and that was considered "cheep" :/ i want a tig..

Shadow24

09-29-2012, 06:42 AM

I want a Tig as well, but don't have 800-1500 lying around for one..

I'm looking to convert the AC arc to DC for about $50 presently :D

Shadow24

09-29-2013, 09:33 AM

Been a while since my last update...

I actually got to spend time and finish the interior wiring of the MS, knocksenseMS, LC-1 and dash connections, only thing left is the manifold line to the MS. I did it better this time so aside from the MS, relay board and such in that "pocket" of the center console, you'd never know it was Megasquirted. I may still create a cover for that area to keep it even more stealth... Now I just have to remember where all the rest of the engine bay wiring went...

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_160347_zps6560ffe0.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_160347_zps6560ffe0.jpg.html)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_160412_zps7f32ba8d.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_160412_zps7f32ba8d.jpg.html)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_162317_zps8dade6dc.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_162317_zps8dade6dc.jpg.html)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_162630_zps70edbad5.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_162630_zps70edbad5.jpg.html)

Ondonti

09-29-2013, 10:02 PM

What happened to the bracket racing you were doing?
Are you using a stepper motor?

Shadow24

09-30-2013, 09:25 AM

What happened to the bracket racing you were doing?
Are you using a stepper motor?

The bracket racing was out in Ohio, I have since moved back east for a better job and there aren't any close drag strips. Nearest one is in New Hampshire I believe...

I'm assuming you mean for idle control? Yes - I will be using the built-in stepper motor on the mitsu 65mm throttle body instead of the previously used Jeep stepper motor and DarkStar valve block from DIYAutoTune.com. The stepper on my original 60mm TB was broken and I wasn't able to find an inexpensive replacement prior to obtaining the larger 65mm TB.

- - - Updated - - -

More updates!

Got some more wiring done in the engine bay. Ensured the starter relay was wired up OK, re-used the Fan and A/C clutch relays, re-purposed the fuel pump relay to act as an A/C cutout at WOT, and removed the ASD relay. Took a bit of time wiring them in order to make sure that everything was wired correctly (I hope). Soon I should be able to stick the battery in soon and start testing outputs and whatnot.

Unfortunately I need to get a new alternator though. The one I had was in a tote sitting on the passenger seat and apparently the sunroof leaks a little...needless to say the alternator is rusted and locked up pretty good. Time to find one from the junkyard or something. Also need to see about getting a replacement seal or figuring out where the leak is...

I also figure I can run without the A/C system charged up until the spring by just ensuring the clutch won't engage. That will allow me to run a normal serpentine belt rather than the odd off-size one I had previously.

Ondonti

10-03-2013, 10:04 AM

I didn't run a relay for my starter, just fused power to key then to starter. I removed as many wires as I could and I still don't like how much I see under the dash. One reason I kinda hate having a separate methanol injection and then a complex wideband controller with 10 or so wires coming out of it. I wish my megasquirt install did not need this stuff. I don't think their version of on/off methanol injection is good enough.
Are you running a parallel install with oem computer?

Shadow24

10-03-2013, 05:14 PM

Ondonti

10-04-2013, 06:36 PM

nope, only reason the original ECU was in the car previously was for the speedometer and due to the fact I hadn't had the available downtime to re-wire the car. straight MS and body wiring only now.

What wideband are you running that has a lot of wires? the LC-1 only has like 5 now... I have a few grounds, 2 outputs, +12v and the serial connections... In this install version, I have the LC-1 under the MS mount and essentially permanently wired in with the LED and calibration switch.

Any reason you didn't use a spare output on the MS to trigger your Meth injection?

I don't even have an output wired up for fan so I have to manually switch that on/off.
Zeitronix has 2 egt wires, 3 map sensor wires, 2 grounds, 1 power, 3 output wires, and I maybe others that you can use for their alarms setup.
I like the progressive nature of the alky controller that I have instead of on/off. I don't know if there is a real purpose to that when you have megasquirt. I don't know how accurate it would be for fuel to be pulled back right as the alky controller turned on 34 gallons per hour.

Shadow24

10-20-2013, 07:43 PM

Updates are now going on the project log thread for all those interested...

Shadow24

10-30-2013, 07:51 AM

So, in my wiring work, I have discovered I am missing a couple connectors I need. If anyone has spares' I'd be grateful and can probably throw a few $$ your way.

1) Manual trans speed sensor connector (later 3-pin, not SDS sensor)
2) Manual trans backup switch connector
3) firewall blanking grommet near the trans tunnel

Shadow24

11-04-2013, 09:58 AM

new update on project log thread :) (rust carnage included!)

Shadow24

12-02-2013, 12:03 PM

Another update in the project log - nearing the point of attempting to start the car for the first time in 3 years!

Sundance 6g72

12-02-2013, 12:46 PM

:thumb:

Ondonti

12-03-2013, 02:28 PM

New fuel?

Shadow24

12-03-2013, 03:07 PM

brand new, with stabil. Tank was bone dry previously. (learned better from last time lol)

Sundance 6g72

12-03-2013, 06:44 PM

Safe to say my parts worked out for you?

Shadow24

12-04-2013, 10:17 PM

Safe to say my parts worked out for you?

The sensor was from a different type of transmission, but I needed the gear so it's all good.

New update on the project log, engine fired up tonight briefly, still a lot to do though.

Shadow24

12-07-2013, 08:25 PM

More updates in the project log, getting closer! :)

Shadow24

12-08-2013, 11:34 PM

Even closer now, update in project log

Shadow24

08-07-2014, 11:26 AM

Update - Lucy is now prowling the streets again! Over the weekend I returned to Ohio and got the last touches done for Lucy to be put back on the road. This was mainly an alignment (Firestone Lifetime Alignment FTW :) ) and ensuring the A/C was working. We were able to get everything hooked up for A/C and it took a charge well. I consider this quite a success as Lucy is using a 2001 Mitsu compressor coupled to the factory 1994 shadow condenser, receiver/dryer and evaporator system. Unfortunately while charging the system, the low pressure schraeder valve is no longer fully sealing. The valve cover appeared to stop or heavily mitigate the leak, but I suspect I need to replace the valve and re-charge to permanently keep the A/C working.

We also ran into issues on the 900 mile drive from Ohio back to Tulsa. The fuel gauge is not accurate (I suspect a wiring/resistance issue) and we ran out of fuel once. Luckily a good Samaritan stopped and I was able to get a ride to pick up a couple gallons of fuel to limp Lucy to the gas station a couple miles away. Lucy is not making anywhere near the power she did in the previous iteration, and her fuel mileage is an astonishingly low 19 to 20 MPG. I believe I have a fuel supply issue as she was running lean and a good 15* to 25* hotter than usual. I used to never see coolant temps over 200*, but we were pushing 220* cruising at 70 on the highway. First thing to check I think, will be the fuel filter. Hopefully it is just a clogged up element and not a bad fuel pump or other issues.

Shadow24

08-09-2014, 09:15 AM

Well, I bypassed the Jegs filter I had installed and it did fix a good bit of the fuel starvation issue. Still not back to 100% of pre-swap power, but it at least drives a heck of a lot better. I believe the wbo2 and the TPS on the 65mm throttle are now what are giving me issues. the TPS keeps changing so my accel enrich is all over the place and the o2 keeps conking out on me, requiring a reset to start working again.

Shadow24

08-13-2014, 10:45 AM

So...I figured out one reason why I haven't had full power on Lucy....Some idiot forgot to properly secure the throttle cable! The sheath had pulled toward the throttle enough that matting the petal only netted about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle angle. I think I will be building a proper bracket this time instead of the pseudo-bracket clamp thing I used on Lucy 1 (or the zip-ties that are currently holding it in place). It still feels like I am not running right above 5000rpm, but once I get the throttle fixed, fuel filter replaced, fuel pressure verified and o2 sensor rectified, I should be able to see what's truly going on with the AFRs.

Shadow24

09-02-2014, 12:29 AM

So I got a little more work done on Lucy today. I made up and installed a throttle bracket to keep the throttle from moving around on me. I also located the major exhaust leak (about 1" from the o2 sensor). The gasket between the collector an the catalytic converter was shot and 2 of 3 mounting bolts were MIA. replaced the gasket and got new bolts with lock washers to seal up the exhaust system. I still have backfires occasionally going between deaccel and tipin, but hopefully with the leak fixed, I can see if the AFRs were reading off and correct the issue. I suspect a possible over-fuel issue due to the exhaust leak skewing the sensor readings. I also STILL haven't upgraded to the latest MS-II/E code, yet. That is definitely on the list due to the massive number of refinements from my current code variant (3.2.1) to the current 3.3.2 or so.

I haven't had time to diagnose the A/C leak, (I suspect the ONE hose-clamp connection in the system slipped due to high pressure) but I did replace the one valve core that was a potential leak. Hopefully I can get the system vacuumed down and re-filled soon (A/C was nice to have in 90*+ weather!)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20140901_150428_zpskmos8dzd.jpg

Ondonti

09-02-2014, 06:58 PM

Nice to see you have a custom bracket holding your throttle cable now. Spiritman needs to do something about his!

Sundance 6g72

09-11-2014, 02:51 PM

My 3000gt is missing the throttle bracket (cable was held in by zipties) :facepalm:

Shadow24

11-10-2014, 12:47 AM

Well, another wrench in the works. Lost both the power steering and alternator belts, resulting in the timing belt jumping time again. I haven't been able to test to ensure valves aren't bent, but I'm hopeful. The crank pulley is only 2 teeth off, which is 30 crank degrees. The serpentine belts tore up the lower timing cover so I have to get a replacement. Upon dis-assembly, it appears my tensioner is shot as well as it had loose play in it. Additionally, the roll pin indexing the crank pulley to the crank sheered and had to be drilled out again. I'm also looking at replacing the crank sprocket as I have drilled out that roll pin twice before and it is showing signs of wear from the re-drilling. I just have to scrounge up the funds for a timing belt kit...

In other news, the issue with the A/C going out was the pressure relief valve blowing on the compressor (exceeding 500psi). It looks like the rest of the system is OK, but I think the Dodge high pressure switch is not functioning. I am going to see if I can adjust the wiring to tie the multi-switch on the compressor into the circuit instead to stave off an over-pressure situation again.

Ondonti

11-10-2014, 12:37 PM

serp tensioner shot or timing belt?

Shadow24

11-10-2014, 01:54 PM

Timing. Serpentine is manual tensioners on both the Alt & A/C belt and PS belt.

c2xejk

11-11-2014, 01:13 PM

More an more I am thinking solid timing tensioner is a better way to go...

Shadow24

11-11-2014, 02:09 PM

I'm betting the Timing belt doesn't really stretch that much, so possibly... I'll have to disassemble my dead tensioner and see if I can cobble the car back together temporarily. Can you provide a little more detail on your conversion? Such as bolt size, thread, length, etc?

c2xejk

11-11-2014, 04:21 PM

I think I used m10 bolts. I don't remember the length probably in the 30-40mm range. There is an M6 bolt to keep the nut from spinning.

I think modern timing belts have very little stretch in them.

Shadow24

11-17-2014, 11:21 AM

Date: 17th November 2014
Username: Shadow24
Full Name: Stuart Rowe
City, State, Zip: Tulsa OK, 74133
Contact: shadowplane676@gmail.com 860-729-2633 (text preferred)
Selling or Wanted Price: $3000 OBO

Description: Well, life likes to make a mess of the best plans one has for project cars. Due to changes, I believe it is time to let my almost 10-year long project go. Sadly I do not have the time nor funds to put any more into Lucy 2.0. Add in the fact that my wife doesn't trust the vehicle as far as she could throw it, and that I no longer have a place to store or work on Lucy, it is time to move on. With that said, I am putting this out to see if anyone would be interested in this vehicle/project. It is a unique, first of its kind build featuring a 6G72 SOHC 24v motor with many upgrades and improvements. There are still things that need to be done to finish the vehicle, but it is driveable and is currently tagged and has a clean Oklahoma title.

I have listed below what has been done to the vehicle and what will also come with the vehicle as spare parts. I am asking $3000 for the whole lot. I believe this is a fair asking price considering this setup ran a 14.309@94mph N/A and the chassis is basically ready for a turbo or supercharger, and the spare parts that would come with it. This car also was able to pass Connecticut emissions as well, so it should be OK for most any state. It is not in perfect condition as it was a function over form approach, but the body started as a sound basically rust-free shell from VA and was only put on the road recently in Oklahoma. Those of you that know my progress thread have some idea already of what has been put into this vehicle. I probably have forgotten a few items in the list below as well.

1994 Dodge Shadow ES 2-door with sunroof

Converted from Auto to Manual (Prothane shifter bushings at the shifter, brass transmission shifter bushings)
Rebuilt A543 with OBX LSD
Spare A543 Trans (not touched, no LSD)
TU Purple plate and sprung 6-puck clutch
Fidanza Aluminum flywheel

Motor swapped from 12v 3.0 to a 2001 3.0 24v 9:1CR motor out of the 3rd Gen Eclipse and Dodge Stratus with a Rebuilt bottom end and 270cc injectors
Spare set of heads/cams (disassembled)
Full set of brand new valves for spare heads
Set of upgrade springs for valves
set of 390cc drop in injectors
6G73 lower intake manifold (for using Bosch/Mustang style injectors)
3/8" Stainless steel fuel feed line
5/16" stainless steel fuel return line
Summit competition fuel filter
Walbro 255lph pump
Custom modified fuel rails to remove flow restrictions
3000GT stock boost referenced FPR
Distributor delete

Megasquirt-II Extra ECU with the following addons
Relay board
KnocksenseMS module
LC1 Wideband o2 sensor
Flatshift/Launch control set up off of clutch switch
Tach out to drive tach
outputs for Full-throttle A/C cutout
Fan control

Full dash replacement
Glowshift Boost/Vacuum
Glowshift Water Temp
Glowshift Oil Temp
Glowshift Oil Pressure
Glowshift Volts
Glowshift Fuel Level
Summit Speedometer (160mph)
Autometer narrowband AFR gauge (driven off of LC1)
knock indicating LED (sensor is a bit TOO sensitive at the moment, needs attenuated with teflon tape)
Low Oil pressure light (Jegs sensor needs replaced)

spare set of steel rims with 24.5x8.5 MT slicks
Set of Sportline rims (17x7 IIRC) with no tires
1993 FSM set
Copper-nickel Alloy brake lines all around
larger upgraded Master Cylinder for 4-wheel disk brakes
Rear disk conversion parts (not installed)
Adapted A/C - Needs pressure relief valve replaced (have part) evacuated and recharged. May want to switch the high pressure wiring to the combo switch on the compressor to keep the popoff valve from blowing again.
Custom exhaust consisting of OBX headers and FWDPerformance 2.5" cat-back exhaust.
Fuel Tank, filler tube, K-frame, sway bar and front A-arms all POR15'd

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20140122_104841_zpsrl7lgxnt.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20140122_104841_zpsrl7lgxnt.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20140804_160220_zpsthlm82n6.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20140804_160220_zpsthlm82n6.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_173920.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/IMG_20120507_173920.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_173931.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/IMG_20120507_173931.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_170816.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/IMG_20120506_170816.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0222.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/IMAG0222.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0223.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/IMAG0223.jpg.html)

Ondonti

11-18-2014, 03:24 PM

I don't understand the evolution of the project to death. Seems like too much effort into things that apparently now you don't care about. I will keep to avoiding investing into my cars when I know they are not investments or something that will make my wife happy. I have never tried to make anything nice for this same reason. If I get cut off, I don't want to feel like I am leaving a piece of me behind.
I have been a bit irked to have driven my wife's 3.0 a lot more than I wanted this last year due to silly wiring problems etc. That car has a due date for a transmission and gunked up piston rings. That said, I already collected spare transmissions for it and unmodified its very easy to keep going as long as the electrics survive. Reliability...hmm, as long as I have an extra car.

Shadow24

12-01-2014, 02:04 PM

Some good news! - I finally had the time to put the timing system back together to see if I had any valve damage. I was lucky and she fired right up and ran OK. So 2 crank teeth plus a little slop in the woodruff key is apparently not enough to bend valves http://www.turbododge.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif.

I'll keep tinkering with Lucy as time & funds permit, but the "for Sale" option is still good.

c2xejk

12-04-2014, 01:41 PM

Add in the fact that my wife doesn't trust the vehicle as far as she could throw it,

So what issues have you been having? (beyond the timing one. ) Did you stay with the stock tensioner or did you convert it to solid?

Shadow24

12-04-2014, 02:19 PM

She doesn't trust it due all the issues I've had over the span of the project (including, but not limited to, bending all the valves due to jumped timing belt, multiple broken axles from drag racing, shearing the index pin on the crank 3x, multiple instances of bad wiring causing no-start/run issues, and so on). Luckily she has been very tolerant with Lucy so far and hasn't made me turn her in for scrap metal... ;)

I ended up staying with the stock tensioner for when I reassembled the timing system, the "slop" I saw earlier was gone. Add on that the tensioner itself didn't have play, I rolled the dice and came up good this time. If I have time/funds, i DO need to replace the timing belt and ancillary components. The belt is over 5 years old and definitely coming up on the mileage mark as well. it doesn't LOOK too bad, but I'd rather not have it let go on me.

I do have to say though, that the car seems to be running much better than I hoped. I need to re-verify ignition timing (just to be certain), as I have a fairly uneven idle that has a lot more vibration than I remember. I am idling in the mid to upper 40's (kpa) and in the 13 to mid 14's for AFR when I was in the 30's to 20's (kpa) and 13's AFR before. This might have to do with the 65mm throttle compared to the 60mm I replaced, but I didn't think it would make that much of a difference. Additionally, I have switched to EAE and Adaptive idle control (man the new code is MUCH better than what I had on my MS from 3+ years ago!) so some of the idle issues are probably due to not fully having the adaptive idle tuned right. I only started using it this week...

Above idle though, the motor smooths out a lot. I think the walbro is overrunning the 3000GT-TT FPR (documented issues of this on 3si.org if I remember correctly), so I have been pulling a lot of fuel out of the table. Pulling fuel got me past my phantom rev limiter in the upper RPMs and she pulls more like I remember. Although the on-throttle pull to the right seems to have returned. I may have to check my Diff and see if the case bolts are loose again...

Ondonti

12-05-2014, 12:18 PM

I would note here that I had fun using the new idle control options...and not fun with the fact that my TPS accell enrichment no longer functions, just max pulsewidth or zero, no matter what the table reference is. Had to go MAP. That and when I drove the car last the idle no longer adapted to where it should. I really don't know if our OEM idle motors like constant on but mine don't work when they are in "as needed" mode. I had like idle 5 motors swapping in and out when troubleshooting originally.

I wish the idle control had more aggressive parameters to force idle.

Shadow24

12-05-2014, 01:10 PM

Any reason you didn't go with EAE? Once I spent a little time on EAE, I was having better luck with Accel enrich than I did with TPS/MAP-dot. I am just finding a few areas I need to work on with EAE.

Adaptive Idle for me is way better. It easily handles adding loads like headlights, HVAC fan, rear defrost etc. with ease. has increased driveability significantly. How aggressive do you need it to be?

c2xejk

12-05-2014, 01:58 PM

Agreed on the EAE! AF is much more consistent.

On the Adaptive Idle, is this something new or the standard closed-loop idle? I have been using the closed-loop (PID) idle control but struggling with an idle that wants to wander. In the past it would start oscillating and the swings would get larger and larger... The result would be a stall. Seems like dialing in some derivative (D) helped settle this down, but it still isn't as good as I would like...

The 3.5 seems to like a LOT of timing. I don't have the table in front of me, but I think I have 30-45 EVERYWHERE in the table...

Ondonti

12-05-2014, 02:20 PM

Just no time to research when I had synch issues that have just gotten worse. I was forced to redo everything and wanted to try idle control. The accel enrichment quick fix was simply to allow me to drive the pile of junk.

I wanted dashpot adder to have a larger range. That is the steps added when you lift throttle. 20 steps is max and when we have 0-255 stepper its not as useful as when a motor uses only 100 or so steps.
I also wanted a huge rpmdashpot limit. I have that maxed out because if my idle is oscillating too much it would never enter closed loop.

This is another of the many settings that needs to have speed sensor incorporated...something megasquirters seem to completely ignore. Lots of settings would be more fool proof if megasquirt understood how fast you were going.

Shadow24

12-08-2014, 03:12 PM

Well, my speedo is toast. The LCD Odometer died when I had the overvolt issue from the alternator's voltage regulator going flaky on me. I decided to pull apart the gauge to see if I could fix it, but I messed up the whole thing now. I probably shorted something or put something back incorrectly, but was still unable to fix the LCD display. Luckily I had one of my last ebay items sell yesterday, and that should give me just enough "mad money" to buy a replacement. I'm probably going to get a Glowshift speedo to match the rest of my gauges and in retrospect, don't really see a need at the moment for a speedo that goes over 140mph. If I do break that mark, well, maybe a larger speedo will be needed, or bail money....

Shadow24

01-01-2015, 11:33 PM

went to a local junkyard today in search of a few parts to fix my erratic idle control issue. Lucked out and found a complete 6G74 manifold and TB which I promptly absconded with. This should fix the clearance issue between the throttle body and rear valve cover that I currently have (which I believe is causing some form of vacuum leak). I have to clean it up a bit, but a total score :) I also nabbed a right lower control arm to see if that fixes some of my clunking and pulling to the right on acceleration.

I'm still on the lookout for some 3.8L non-mivec cams to complete my current parts scrounging list. (the 3.8L cams are symmetrical and a better profile than the normal 3.0/3.5 cams).

I also got my replacement speedometer that i have to install along with better grounding for my dash gauges to improve accuracy. Still on the "new parts list" is springs for the front and rear, going to go coilover again on the front and with some GM-type rear springs to improve handling.

Shadow24

01-05-2015, 10:27 PM

Well, swapped the intake this evening, we will see if this takes care of the idle/cold start high RPM issue I have.

Here is the interesting thing, the car I pulled the manifold from was poorly installed (see picture below). One of the EGR ports was "sealed" with a plastic cap and grey RTV. and 2 of the 5 bolts holding the manifold on when I pulled it were not proper.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/FC%20build/20150101_125703_zpspmun9ax9.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/FC%20build/20150101_125703_zpspmun9ax9.jpg.html)

Here you can see the major differences between the GT manifold and the 6G74 manifold.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20150105_173303_zpscajwcacv.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20150105_173303_zpscajwcacv.jpg.html)

and lastly, fully installed and working
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20150105_181004_zpswye4gtas.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20150105_181004_zpswye4gtas.jpg.html)

Shadow24

02-13-2015, 01:13 PM

So now that I have some of the running issues sorted out with my car, it is time to get a few things addressed with the suspension/steering. The car as it currently sits definitely has suspension issues. I did put new dampers on about 2 years ago (car sat for the last year and a half). but I'm pretty sure the springs are shot. The car still squats in the back with new rear dampers and the right front is slightly lower than the left front. I also have very bad dive and nose lift when accelerating or braking. Add in that I have what I believe is massive bump-steer on acceleration, means the car is fairly twitchy and quite a handful at anything over 1/2 throttle. (Keep in mind, I do have an OBX LSD in the car that was in good working order when I pulled the drivetrain out of Lucy 1.0 to put into Lucy 2.0. This also included swapping the 5-speed K-frame over).

The torquesteer/funnybusiness in the front is what usually gives me the most grief. When I get on the throttle, you can visibly see the front end rise by at least an inch to 3" (at WOT) or more (caveat: guestimate). This causes the steering wheel to rotate to the left by about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn. The car then likes to start pulling to one side or the other under heavy acceleration and proceeds to bounce from pulling to one side then the other. Couple that with the random steering wheel movement makes keeping the car in a straight line very hard as when you let off the throttle and the front end comes back down, you are now oversteering to one direction or the other. While I do have an LSD (I will try and check to make sure the LSD hasn't separated on me again causing all sorts of wierdness before), I believe this erratic behavior is triggered by a completely unbalanced suspension setup.

I believe that the first order of business is to deal with the rear springs as I am only an inch or two off the bumpstops at present. This also gives the car a very noticeable rearward rake angle of approximately 1.77 degrees. Couple that with the extensive compression of the springs, I believe I am getting excessive rear squat and front end rise. This (from what little I know about suspension) can cause all sorts of issues with front end alignment, bump steer etc.

wheel arch heights (ground to wheel arch through center axis of wheel)
LF - ~27.5" (Spring compressed to ~8.25")
RF - ~27" (spring compressed to ~8.75")
LR - ~25.25" (spring currently compressed to 6.5")
RR - ~25.25" (spring currently compressed to 6.5")

I have found some 10" tall, 5" round springs I believe will work with no to little modification and can be had in many spring rates from Speedway. I am considering going with a linear rate of 350lb/in. This should get my static height closer to normal and increase my front anti-lift/rear anti-squat. I believe this will help bias the weight distribution back towards the front of the car and may alleviate some of the torquesteer/funnybusiness going on in the front end.

If anyone has input on spring rates for a good balanced setup on a P-body, I am all ears. The same goes for finding what is causing the erratic front steer issues under acceleration. I am also opening a thread in the suspension section to try and get a little more traffic on my issue.