24v duster - input? :D

[Shadow24]

i finally registered over here and thought id put my swap thread over here too. hopefully going to add a M90 supercharger to the mix soon.
thread is over on the TD site here
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122088&highlight=Finished%21+3.0+swap

comments welcome :D

[inmyshadow]

Why not use the Mitsu 3.5. If it fits in the Stratus, it would have fit in the Shadow.


Look forward to a run-in with your car at "the pike".

later

[Frank]

Very sweet dude. Scary wiring job, but still cool project.

[Shadow24]

i woulda used the 3.5 if i had found out about it earlier. i had already put the 3.0 in whet the guys over at club3G started doing the 3.5 swap *shrugs* motor mounts are the same so it would be a dropin replacement to the 3.0 later :D

[turbovanman]

Yeah, thats a sweet setup, that should be a blast when you supercharge it. Have you got any times yet?

When you say 3.5L, are you meaning the Intrepid DOHC engine?

And that will drop right in where a Mistu 3.0L went? If so, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, :D

[Shadow24]

its possible the intepid has a mitsu 3.5L, i KNOW that the 90o diamantes nd later monteros had the 35l. basic diferences are a lil wider heads and a slightly taller block IIRC. the 3.5 should be easily found and not that expensive. mind though that both the 3.5 and the 24v 3.0 use a different passenger sde mount, other than that, the trannies bolt right up (1543 too) and so do the torque strut and front mount

[Shadow24]

thread updated with some newer pics. just got my "new" flywheel.....all 20+lbs of it lol

[Shadow24]

cars headed to the schools shop for the flywheel swap (i am NOT gonna do that in the parking lot lol) and to get the ball joints, tie rod ends, A-arm and sway bar bushings done. It will also be getting some body work and im thinking of going metallic silver paint job (grey interior)

any input on pain color? something nice but not a cop magnet ya know :eyebrows:

[Vigo]

grey or silver would be nice.


also, the intrepid motor is a sohc, 24-valve motor. the 3.0 and 3.5 of the style shadow24 is using are also sohc 24 valve, not mechanically related. (Or are they? mitsu/chrysler in bed together, intrepid 3.5 shows up 1993, then in late 1994 mitsu slaps some VERY similar heads on its own 6g72? which is also sold in many dodges? me thinks one thing did lead to another.)

as far as i know noone has swapped the intrepid motor into anything else, which is supremely odd. one hangup though is that there's no good structure on the front of the engine to bolt a motor mount to for a transverse engine car. but now the 3.5 is in transverse pacifica, sebring, avenger, so we will see.

[Ondonti]

3.5L 6g74 mitsu with 24v sohc heads (also available dohc) is not related in any way to the 3.5L chrysler motor.

[Shadow24]

+1, same disagreement went down over at club3g.com, the mitsu 3.5 and the chrysler 3.5 are fundamentally different. bore and stroke are different and the ghrysler 3.5 is based off the 3.3/3.8/2.7 in-house design.

[Vigo]

im speaking only of the head design, not anything else on the motor. the heads dont have to be an EXACT copy to have been 'inspired' by some 'shared' engineering data.

also, iirc, the 1st gen chrysler 3.5 sohc has a rocker for each valve, ie 2 intake and 2 exhaust rockers per cylinder. mitsu heads have one rocker to push both exhaust valves. then when chrysler redesigned 3.5 heads a little later, they also adopted that. theres a timeline here..

[Shadow24]

well, i havent been over here much, but heres my U.date thread over at TD.com. hope you all enjoy. ill see about putting updates here too.
P-body 24v updates (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f69/136968-p-body-24v-updates.html)

[Ondonti]

im speaking only of the head design, not anything else on the motor. the heads dont have to be an EXACT copy to have been 'inspired' by some 'shared' engineering data.

also, iirc, the 1st gen chrysler 3.5 sohc has a rocker for each valve, ie 2 intake and 2 exhaust rockers per cylinder. mitsu heads have one rocker to push both exhaust valves. then when chrysler redesigned 3.5 heads a little later, they also adopted that. theres a timeline here..

Regarding this.

The 24v sohc uses modified 12valve valvetrain. Its not "shared" data. its not like 24v sohc motors are anything new.

[Shadow24]

i got to look at the Chrysler SOHC 3.5 and its not even CLOSE in design to the mitsu 2.5/3.0/3.5. everything is different somehow. dual TB intake, individual rockers, the cam is buried in the head more than the 24v, the list goes on

[Shadow24]

forgot i had this thread lol. its been a while, but heres a link to my updates thread. Ill start double posting here too.

24v Updates thread (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f69/136968-p-body-24v-updates.html)

Latest update:

got a bit done yesterday, pulled the motor off the engine stand, installed the blockoff for the distributor, put the new flywheel on and put my clutch together. also got the trans bolted to the motor and did some more spray painting of the engine bay. should have that done soon and be able to get the motor installed. :D

Blockoff - had to slot one side a bit more to get adequate sealage
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300030.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0618082031.jpg

Brand new flywheel (yay for "made in china for perfection clutches")
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300031.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300032.jpg

Painted grill and partial engine bay (i did more but my camera batteries died :( )
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300033.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300034.jpg

Putting engine and trans together
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300035.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300036.jpg

[inmyshadow]

While you got the whole thing apart again.

What about using this?

http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/g5023.html

I installed a hondata gasket similar to this on my neon. Worked out quite well.

[Shadow24]

Ill think about it. i have some other things id like to do first (rear suspension, rust fix and paint). i may try that at a later date when i have some $$$ ot spare, ive also pulled the intake so many times, its a 5 minute job to pull it and put it back on :)

[Ondonti]

While you got the whole thing apart again.

What about using this?

http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/g5023.html

I installed a hondata gasket similar to this on my neon. Worked out quite well.

He has been screwing a lot of people lately with messed up shifter bushings, poorly cut spacers (that dont line up properly) so its just more of the same from him the last 6+ years. According to his website he seems to set up booths at local shows. Its a good thing I didnt know so I could have informed some dissatisfied customers.

There is probably a 3g vendor who can hook up 24vshadow and if there isnt then it means rolling the cheaterh dice.

[Shadow24]

well, got a lot done today, didn't get it all together but im getting REALLY close :) went to the J-yard this morning and got the connector i needed to wire up the eclipse alternator and scored a 2.5l lower intake manifold with injectors and injector wiring clips for $31.80. the 2.5 ran the same style injectors as the 360cc VR4 injectors i bought. the 3.0 injector bosses are taller to fit the smaller injectors, but the 2.5 LIM bolts right in :) yay for accumulating parts for the S/C plan

as for the car, got the front motor mount in, front header, oil filter relocation adapter and oil filter, mounted the PS pump and belt, and the CORRECT alternator and belt for the motor (although im still working on deciphering which wires i need to get it to work correctly, i think i got it but...see pic below) got both axles in, fixed a broken grease fitting on my rivers side ball joint (whats the interval for greasing those and the tierods anyways?) put a circlip (e-clip) on the side shifter cable to keep it from popping off, the top one stays on fine so no need to worry there. i think thats about it for today...

i dont have much left to put back together part-wise, and then all thats left is re-doing the wiring and adding fluids (amsoil full synth 5w30 in the motor and regular castrol 5w30 in the trans, and 50/50 coolant) and i should be able to fire her up :)

Heres a pic of the two injector bosses, 2.5 on top, 3.0 below
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300041.jpg


Alternator wiring - i think all i need are straight 12v, and switched 12v to the regulator and the output wire. i believe the 2 wires going to the ECU are for the OBD-II monitoring/volt gauge on the eclipse but im not sure....
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300042.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300043.jpg

and the new alternator installed, with more clearance to the radiator!
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300044.jpg


injectors, VR4 360cc on right, avenger 190cc on left. Look similar maybe?
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300045.jpg


360s installed on the 2.5 mani
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300048.jpg

[Sroufe7]

Not sure if anyone has said or not...but the VR4 injectors are low imp. compared to the injectors from the 3G that are high. But I don't think it matters for you, since you are running the MS.

[Shadow24]

yeah, i know they are low impedance, but MS can handle either (with or without a resistor pack depending). ill probably add a resistor pack and run like tehy are high impedance rather than screwing with PWM tuning but who knows

[Shadow24]

well, got some good and bad news:

Good News - Im OK, save for some whiplash and soreness

Bad News - was in an accident going to work Yesterday morning. Went around a blind corner that ive taken every morning for the last 4 summers, cruising along as usual. come around the corner and there is a GMC 1500 parked in my lane facing the wrong way and 3 cars passing him in the oncoming lane. I.E. a wall of cars. i didnt have much for options: cut off the oncoming traffic and go off a 3' ditch/ledge into a field, go to the right and hit a tree or telephone pole, or try and stop. I laid on the brakes and locked em up (was in panic mode so i didnt think to ease up to get traction and steering back) so i ended up hitting this truck head on at maybe 25mph (gestimate, wasnt looking at the speedo when i hit).

Luckly i had the new 215/60 tires on (more traction) and the GMC had a minute-hitch plow hitch that was right level with the steel bumper brace. After i hit, there were no fluids on the ground and the car still runs ok. i didnt run it long because i want to look it over first. The truck had a few scratches and a small crack in the plastic valence but was 100% fine other than that. (the driver and passenger were DPW workers and were in the front yard talking to someone so there wasnt anyone in the truck)

well, the cops show up and one younger cop (25-30ish) is doing the paperwork. He could tell by the rubber stripes i left that i wasnt going 35mph (i was probably doing 55-65mph or so) but since the truck had no damage and my car was noticeably the worse off, he didnt give me a ticket. I also dont have collision so the repair bill is on my head :( As far as i can tell the DPW guy didnt get a ticket either, probably because DPW and the police are all buddy-buddy anyways.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080747a.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080747.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080748a.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080748b.jpg





Stupid idiot had no damage!
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/0821080748.jpg

















Good news from today though, although still sore and achy, i got parts for 181 (hood, both fenders, headlights, headlight support, grill and bumper) and as of 6pm today, "Lucy" is all back together and running well. Im loading her up in the morning and heading 400 miles to school so with me luck


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/DSCN0859.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/DSCN0866.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/DSCN0869.jpg

[Frank]

Shouldn't that be his fault?

[Shadow24]

probably, but i was going a bit fast. AFAICT he was buddy buddy with the cops so he probably didnt get a ticket. if it was a town truck, theres no way id win with an insurance claim. if it was a personal truck, i might have a shot.

ive had hit and miss luck lately. Lucy got me to school fine (400 miles @ 27mpg) but decided to skip a tooth or two on the timing belt going to dinner. (and i couldnt fit my tools to bring to school either). so now Lucy is at a Mechanics out here and ill probably find out monday or so whats going on. i THINK that one of the idler pulleys i replaced might have come loose in the accident and finally loosened enough to throw the belt off tonight. *sigh* if its not one thing, its another....

[Big_P]

Jesus Christ man you're only in Connecticut?! I'm in RI! Where are you going to school?

[Shadow24]

im in Windsor Locks, by Bradley Airport. Im also in Webster MA alot during the summer :-p (got a summer place on Webster Lake)

[dodgeshadowchik]

cool that u didnt get a ticket! looks like the car wasnt damaged too much, which is good! glad to see you aready got the new parts installed! :)

[Shadow24]

Thanks :) now as soon as teh mechanic fixes teh timing belt, i should be back at teh track trying to beat my 14.92 :-p (got better tires now too and stiffer rear shocks)

[inmyshadow]

At least a regular hood clears the motor. Seems finding a 3.0 hood is getting tougher.

[Shadow24]

yeah, not many v6 P-bodies in the J-yards around me (or that i could find)

[Shadow24]

bad news :( i need another motor. The timing belt jumped 1/4 of a cam turn and the motor has NO compression on the front bank, and only 70psi on cyl 1. go figure, i dont have my tools here or the means to get (physically) another motor. ill have to see what i can do, i think i can get a motor near home for $350, and have my dad bring it up along with my tools. might take the weekend, but i bet i can swap the motor pretty quick with some tools and help but we'll see.

so much for running a rebuilt motor and all that *shrug* if its not one thing its another.... :-/

[Shadow24]

well, got the heads off today. definitely had bent valves. ALL the intake valves were bent and at least the exhaust valves on 1 and 4. ill probably be ably to get the heads on the car tomorrow and maybe get a pop and a bang out of Lucy.

front head
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300073.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300072.jpg
front pistons
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300074.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300075.jpg
rear pistons
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300076.jpg
headless motor
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300077.jpg

[Shadow24]

went to the last friday test and tune for the year and did fairly well. the new tires had good grip and the car ran really well. on the 6th run i started shifting higher instead of at 6000 i normally did. here are the times.

15.217@92.13
15.124@91.91
15.410@92.94
16.420@92.82 - bogged at the line
15.003@92.84
14.994@93.66 - first run shifting at 6500-6700ish, crossing the line in 3rd, remaining runs the same
14.858@93.54
14.876@93.73
14.942@93.82
15.024@93.73
14.847@94.29 - fastest run of the night
14.888@93.89
15.106@94.11
14.955@94.27
14.896@94.61
15.046@94.27
14.919@94.48
14.865@94.49

there were a bunch of hondas and the like there last night, i ate a bunch of them for dinner. Ran against a Cobalt (modded/re-tuned model, whatever is just below the SS) he was running about the same as i was, whoever got the better launch usually won. There was one honda i did respect, he was a late 20s guy that wasnt a ricer and his EG6 hatch was on par with my car for times. same thing, swapping who won back and forth. Ate a 2nd gen eclipse (N/A though) by a good 2 seconds as well.

The most memorable run of the night was going up against an IROC-Z camaro, the driver and passenger gave me that chuckling nod as we lined up. he beat me off the line, but i caught him by half track and passed him on the big end. The look on their faces as i pulled past them was PRICELESS!! :D The driver flipped me off as i passed him but at the pull off wanted to know what i had, if i had a turbo or something. he couldnt believe he got his --- handed to him by a N/A 6-banger!

the next to last run was against another honda driver said he had been wanting to run me all night. i whooped him bad as well. After the last run of the night i saw 2 hondas and the 2nd gen eclipse parked, chatting and i stopped to say hi (one honda was the one who wanted to race me all night) first thing they asked was if i had a 2.2 or 2.5 turbo. shoulda seen their faces when i popped the hood and told them it was an N/A v6 :) too bad the eclipse sounded like it had rod knock as it left....*shrug*

the only thing that "broke" at the track tonight was the cheap patchwork flexpipe on my exhaust. 2nd launch of teh night it sheard on me. so i was running no muffler all night and on th eway home at 11:30pm. just lucky i didnt get a noise violation lol. Lucy did me proud tonight, ill have to give her a bath or something perhaps...

as for the car, shifting later saved me a couple tenths especially eliminating a shift. running that high in 1st and 2nd i dont notice a power loss, but in 3rd, as i hit about 6200 or so i can feel it lose some power. The power loss is less than the time lost in hitting 4th gear though. i also reliably picked up about 2mph on my trap speeds. That and i was running a combined weight (me and the car plus all the junk in it) of 3084lbs. that means without the junk and my heavy butt in the car, its about 2800lbs. not too shabby. I also had 5 or 6 different people come up to me give me props for my car and how it was running despite how it looked. That also made the night really good.

Ran into a turbo Hayabusa there as well, and during a 45 minute wait for a track cleanup, talked with the guy. he was running megasquirt on the bike and doing 8.5 second passes to boot! Its nice to see there fast vehicles with the DIY mindset.

[turbovanman]

Sounds like you had fun, :thumb:

Did you just fix the heads?

[Shadow24]

im going to fix the old heads and build them up for more rpms and power.

i did have a blast, cant wait to go again when the track opens (or if i can make it on sunday)

[dodgeshadowchik]

not bad at all! :) nice job beating up on people!

[Ondonti]

im going to fix the old heads and build them up for more rpms and power.

i did have a blast, cant wait to go again when the track opens (or if i can make it on sunday)

If you find better rockers/lifters, holla at cha boi.

[Shadow24]

what do you need better rockers and lifters for? :) there a fatigue/failure problem with our rockers at higher RPMs? i was thinking about seeing if i could mill out the rockers to take the larger DOHC lash adjusters :) (just thought of that now)

[Shadow24]

well, its been a while since ive posted on this thread, i keep forgetting i have this one lol. not too much is new ATM, except im now located in columbus OH. Looking forward to the track opening up so i can see what a better tune does at the track (anyone want to lent me some slicks to try? :D) im still trying to accumulate parts for my supercharger install. i still need an intercooler and intercooler piping/couplers plus fab work to get it done. im hoping to have it done sometime this summer if all goes well


i DID snag a pair of fidanza cam gears for the 24v out from under the nose of 3 n00b ebayers today :) (sniping is SO much fun lol) $67 shipped no less. mind you these usually go for $120 - $130 EACH :partywoot:

i also found out that one of my rear wheel bearings is loose, im going to snug them both up tomorrow before driving 70 miles to see my g/f. hopefully that's the root of my on/off throttle lane changing

[Shadow24]

well, the rear wheel bearings are NOT the problem. snugged them up but it didn't change the worsening on/off throttle issue. i believe my poly-filled right motor mount is giving up the ghost and moving on me creating the changing steering geometry.

I tried to find one at the J-yard today but they were all dead or melted from the torch used to pull the motors. i really don't want to buy a new one as they are $180 cause of the cast aluminum casing etc. i DID score

1) a hump 3.0 hood in great shape (although riceboy painted silver with a rattle can but it will work for now til Lucy gets a makeover this summer)
2) stock P-body foglight mounts and lights (although the lights got painted over by said riceboy)
3) a nice 93 A543 transmission with front mount bracket,
4) starter (nippondeso style, smaller than my bosch)
5) drivers side A-arm to replace my current one with a sloppy ball joint hole,
6) left front headlight with INTACT adjuster frame (mine is messed up and the light points up ant a 30* angle )
7) passenger side view mirror

all for $130 (i was going to grab the ground effects off the car, but it woulda been a PITA to pull all the pop rivets and i wasn't sure of the look so...(they are on a silver/black sundance at Moyers junkyard in crestline OH if anyone wants them lol)

[Shadow24]

well, figured out that the right motor mount is dead. got a prothane insert on the way (24v mount, not a TD one). going to see if that cures my issues next weekend.

swapped my right headlight housing for a better J-yard one and got it adjusted so i can actiually SEE at night lol

woulda replaced my cracked and wobbling right mirror except i forgot to take it out of my g/f's friend's truck lol, that'll be next weekend too. I may go look at the other headlight housing at the J-yard and see about nabbing a headboard to do a headliner fix on "Lucy"

hopefully going to have the idle valve installed soon as well to help with cold start/warmup

not much else going on at the moment doe to lack of funds :(

[nmw2006]

Nice finds :P

I use Moyer's whenever i need wierd parts..they always seem to give pretty good deals.

Gonna have to meet you sometime since you are now a hour away from me.

Gonna give the MS another shot coming up this weekend or so if its warm.

Good luck on getting your S/C project going.

[Shadow24]

thanks, im usually up in Lexington on the weekend visiting my g/f :) otherwise im down in Columbus for work

shoot me a PM or something if your in the area

[Shadow24]

just got my cam gears in :) they are nice and light and the machining is pretty good. can't wait to couple these with a set of regrinds in my 24v motor... Also got my new EDIS module so i can see if that cures the phantom cutout

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/S7300165.jpg

[Shadow24]

well, spent some quality time with lucy this weekend...

pulled the old mount out and put the the new prothane inserts in. however, this necessitated putting Lucy under the knife as the original Deyeme mount had the bolt hole off center and the prothane (and stock) mounts have the bolt hole centerd. since the holes in the mounts were not far enough apart from the new one i would have had to drill, i had to weld the old holes up, grind them flat and re-drill for a new mount hole.

this cures SOME of the the on/off throttle steering issue. it is noticibly reduced but not gone. holding the steering wheel still and constant throttle Lucy will still skitter left and right within the lane. im suspecting a bad tie rod at this point as there isn't much left in the front suspension that HASN'T been fixed :banghead: (well, they WERE replaced 3 years ago by the school shop, but im inclined NOT to trust their work these days...)


Also got a short vid of the bearing noises my transmission is making. they only go away when i depress the clutch (and it isn't ALWAYS nosy like that, sometimes more sometimes not at all...)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_s7300179.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=s7300179.flv)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300166.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300167.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300168.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300169.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300171.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300172.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300173.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300174.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300175.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300176.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300178.jpg

[Shadow24]

Well, 2.5 days later, "Lucy" has the rebuilt transmission w/ LSD, new clutch, aluminum flywheel and my summer tires. a HUGE thank you is in order for Nathan (aka nmw2006 on TM) for helping out saturday and sunday. the trans swap and everything would not have gone as fast or as smoothly as it did. Nathan was also the one that discovered the issue with the PP bolts

Heres my old slipping 4-puck. the PP side was greased up and the total disc thickness measured .300", the new 6-puck was .345" the stock flywheel and pp did show some signs of wear, but nothing drastic. I also had to switch back to the shorter clutch cable for the 92 transmission to work.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300227-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300226.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300232.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300231.jpg


In addition, i got the pre-load set on the differential to .005 (spec is .001 - .01) and the LSD doesn't rattle and has some pre-load in it. All the bolts got the appropriate loctite on reassembly as well.

i did find another issue with ARP hardware and the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. the pressure plate bolts BOTTOMED OUT! The flywheel bolts actually cleared the TU 6-puck clutch with NO interference, but i had to grind about 1/4ish off the PP bolts to get them to clamp the PP correctly.

Prior to shortening the bolts:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300229.jpg

After shortening the bolts:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300230.jpg



I have a few misc issues i need to sort out as well. on the way home, Lucy acted up when i stopped to get a new Intake Air Temperature sensor (which is causing the MS to randomly add or take fuel away based on the erratic -40 to 180+ temperature fluctuations) she seemed like she had dropped a few cylinders, so $70ish and 4 hours later, (compression tester, sensor, pliers, O2 safe silicon and 4 spark plugs later) it turned out to be a loose 12v supply to one of the injector banks.

I now have the new relay board and waterproof case, so stay tuned for the next update: MS rewire!

the real killer will be waiting the 500+ mile break-in period of the new clutch before beating on it and taking "Lucy" to the track.

I do have to say the TU 6-puck and purple PP are REALLY NICE! pedal effort is less than the HD PP i had with the 4-puck and the 6-puck is VERY drivable, it has less chatter and is more like an OEM feel than the 4-puck i had. I just have to get used to the faster rev-ability of the aluminum flywheel on starting and shifting.

Also, the new transmission shifts very well, its very tight. first and second are a lot less picky than before and 3,4 and 5 slide in quite easily even on hard acceleration. it was definitely worth the wait. Just have to get used to the LSD and all the new driving quirks :)

[Shadow24]

ok, i know this is like zombie thread resurection but

got a little more done today. finished up working on the K-frame, A arms and sway bar. 1 coat POR-15 and 2 coats Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black :) Unfortunately, probably wont get much more done on the chassis until springtime. Hoping to get more work on the motor done though: cams, valve springs, new valves and valve stem seals in by spare heads to swap onto my motor. Also want to check on the clutch and make sure all's ok there. possibly get the S/C mount and such fabbed up as well.
POR-15, ready for chassis black
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_161749.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_170935.jpg
first coat satin black
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_172408.jpg
2nd coat semi-dry
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_204804.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_204849.jpg

[Shadow24]

got the k-frame and front suspension assembled enough to roll her outside for the winter... http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111219_152532.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111219_201440.jpg

[Sundance 6g72]

How do you plan on storeing it for the winter? Any special tricks?

[Shadow24]

no special tricks...just gonna bear the weather and see. She's getting re-painted in the spring anyways. going to spend the time trying to work on the motor and getting other components ready for assembly when the weather breaks (i.e. SS exhaust, motor's top end, Supercharger mount and belt routing, dash layout and EMS/Engine/Gauges wiring diagram)

[Sundance 6g72]

wooo cant wait to see it superchaged

[Ondonti]

Vigo was saying to put tarp underneath and then something in the middle of the tarp to prevent puddling. Apparently that is all to prevent humidity from building up under the car. I need to do this to my Starlet which is sitting on grass.

[Sundance 6g72]

yeah i heard the same thing. either let the snow pile up or seal the car correct with a tarp to prevent humidity. dont just put a tarp over it.

[Shadow24]

yeah, no tarp over or under, just gonna get the weather. Car's going to be stripped and painted in the spring anyways. Plus POR-15 and undercoating as well. A couple months more sitting in the grass won't kill it :)

[Ondonti]

Putting a tarp over my Duster with its missing rear hatch window was probably the worst thing I have ever done to the car. EVERYTHING corroded or molded.

[bond_bbs]

yeah, no tarp over or under, just gonna get the weather. Car's going to be stripped and painted in the spring anyways. Plus POR-15 and undercoating as well. A couple months more sitting in the grass won't kill it :)

Definitely not. Providing any grass doesn't grow up into it, and nothing takes up home inside, you should be good. That POR-15 is fantastic stuff, that's for sure.

[Shadow24]

Well, re-read the supercharged book.. I think i'll stay with stock cams for the time being. supposedly stock type cams work fairly well for a blower setup. I figure I'll see what happens and go from there.

I did get another shiny bit for the car yesterday though... adapter for the BOV/Recirc valve.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111230_195746.jpg

[Ondonti]

which valve are you going to run?

[Shadow24]

I'm getting an RFL type, but going to recirc to before the blower to reduce pumping losses at cruise...i THINK it'll work and for $50, its a heck of a lot cheaper than a supercharger specific recirc valve from Magnuson or the like

[bond_bbs]

Used OEM Subaru Bypass valves can be had for cheap, are pretty leak resistant and are good to over 20lbs. Could be option at least for the price conscience.

[Ondonti]

His BOV will have to vent boost when the throttle is closed.

[Shadow24]

His BOV will have to vent boost when the throttle is closed.

not necessarily. The plan is to have the S/C AFTER the throttle. The BOV will then only act as a recirculation valve on part throttle to reduce the pumping losses on the S/C to near 0. this is done by allowing the minor vacuum boost created at part throttle to be recirculated through the S/C rather than "boosting" in vacuum (e.g. 15" after throttle, 10" after S/C). In this kind of setup, no boost is ever vented to atmosphere.

[c2xejk]

Avoiding the BOV venting to atmosphere is only needed in a MAF setup.

[Sundance 6g72]

hes not trying to prevent losing metered air, he want to reduce "pumping loss"

idk what that is though :(

[Shadow24]

Sundance 6G72 has got the gist of the idea.

In a roots supercharged setup with the throttle BEFORE the supercharger there exists a condition at partial throttle where the supercharger is "boosting" in vacuum. At cruise, if you were not running a recirculation valve and measured the vacuum before and after the supercharger you would have different values such as 15" vacuum between the throttle and the supercharger and 10" vacuum between the supercharger and the motor. This is the "boosting" vacuum effect, and actually has the supercharger doing work and using power to generate the "boost" from 15" to 10" vacuum using more fuel and power.

The recirculation valve helps eliminate this condition by allowing the supercharger to "re-breathe" the boosted air, and nearly equalizing the vacuum before and after the supercharger. This in essence also puts the supercharger itself into vacuum causing it to only need a bare fraction of power to rotate.

As soon as your throttle opens enough to warrant boost (i.e. 0 vacuum or thereabouts), the valve closes and allows the supercharger output to be dedicated to the engine and produce boost.


Hope this helps :)

[Ondonti]

Avoiding the BOV venting to atmosphere is only needed in a MAF setup. With this^^ not sure why it matters what air the supercharger ingests. All you do is increase inlet charge temps during cruising. Non recir would need a filter though unless you really trust the valve. Wonder if increased inlet temps during cruising would help mileage thanks to better atomization? Probably not noticeably.

[Shadow24]

with a MAF setup, if your venting to atmo AFTER the MAF, the computer already calculated for the air you just dumped causing bad irregularities in the AFR ratio.

On my setup, the marginal intake temp increase from recirculating air should not matter due to the honking big I/C I'll be running.

[c2xejk]

With this^^ not sure why it matters what air the supercharger ingests. All you do is increase inlet charge temps during cruising. Non recir would need a filter though unless you really trust the valve. Wonder if increased inlet temps during cruising would help mileage thanks to better atomization? Probably not noticeably.

Not sure if it is true with this specific setup, but generally you want to put a filter on a BOV vented to atmosphere because they can open under some light throttle conditions and pull in air...

[Sundance 6g72]

mine opens under vacuum at idle and im sure while im cruising. my buddies eclipse gsx did not though.. he had a greddy rs. He didnt recirculate it but it also didnt stay open so his car ran fine which was odd because normally they run like trash with an open bov.

[Shadow24]

if your BOV is opening under vacuum and isn't recirculating, you have a problem. You'll be sucking in unmetered air and its probably messing with throttle response and fueling.

[Sundance 6g72]

not with speed density...