Consistancy? What's that? Added who diagnosed it!!

[85_600]

Starting from the passenger side:

#1 = 150 YEA!
#2 = 90, with oil = 100 - 105 :( :(
#3 = 125 :confused:
#4 = 120 :confused:

So, looks like I'll be doing something. What I don't know yet...:(

That's all.

**EDIT** Well, I just wanted to say that Turbovanman, Simon, diagnosed my problem. I had asked him to look into this problem for me and he did so. He posted in that other thread that it was either compression or dirty injectors.

I'd have to say, being in Canada, he did a marvelous job, and saved me some $$ for not having to have this checked out at a shop. I wish i could repay him some way :thumb:

[GLHSKEN]

Think you found your issue...

[85_600]

What's cheaper: Having a shop rebuild this thing or buying a used T1 and having the shop drop it in?

I was in this same spot about this same time in Jan of '05 but I sold that car, so I didn't get a chance to experience that big of outflow of $$.

Thanks...
Paul

[GLHSKEN]

Buying used and having them drop it in is cheaper

To know what you are getting... Have it rebuilt.

[85_600]

Buying used and having them drop it in is cheaper

To know what you are getting... Have it rebuilt.


Ahhhh, THAT'S the KEY! :thumb:

[85_600]

Anyone have a guide for pulling a 2.2 out? And, what's easier, pulling it with the tranny or without.

Also, anyone in NE Ohio have a Cherry Picker I can possibly borrow?

[GLHSKEN]

Easier with. Start at the bottom and work up...

Driveshafts
Downpipe
Shift linkage
crank pulley
alternator with mounting bracket.
Front engine mount bracket
Yank the rad just so you don't hit it.
Then work on everything attached to the engine.

You basically get it to the point where the side motor mounts are all holding the engine in. it will swing back and forth. From there, I hook the picker up tension it and remove the trans motor mount bolt.

[cordes]

Ken's method is the way to go. I am sure that he has tested it out a time or two.

Once you get in there, you realize that there is not all that much to pulling a motor and droping it back in. I would reccomend one of the engine levelers that they sell for 30-40 bucks at the parts store. I have done it with and without one now, and they are the only way to go.

Hope you find a relativly inexpensive fix.:thumb:

[Holley]

I would reccomend one of the engine levelers that they sell for 30-40 bucks at the parts store. I have done it with and without one now, and they are the only way to go.
Ditto that, more so when pulling the trans at the same time :) Not sure about there, but here renting an engine crane is pretty cheap ...

I went through my first 2.2 engine pull recently and was surprised how easy it was once I had wires, alternator etc off. I labelled all the wires as I unpugged them too, to make reinstallation easier.

[turbovanman²]

Its a tough call on which way to go, if you rebuild it, you know what you have, if you get a used one, its touch and go, could be good, could be bad. If time is important, then a used one would be the way to go and take your time rebuilding yuor old one properly. Also, If reusing those injectors, I would get them checked and cleaned at a fuel injection shop.

[GLHNSLHT2]

If it's an Auto, pull the motor out and leave the tranny in :)

[Una]

Follow Ken's technique. I can have an engine out in under 3 hours, without help, usually. Tip I've learned the hard way.. If doing the engine removal in the dirt, (out in the yard rather than on a driveway or in a garage) leave about 10 feet open behind the car, then when you lift the engine up and out, roll the car out from under the engine, rather than rolling the engine. I've knocked my crane over several times trying to roll it around in the dirt with the engine way up in the air.. haha..

[GLHNSLHT2]

yeah but you won't lose tranny fluid or mess up the alignment by pulling just the motor if it's an auto.

[turbovanman²]

I agree, if its an auto, just leave it in, 5 spd, pull both.

[Tony Hanna]

I'd like to add that if you do just drop in a used engine, you'd be ahead to replace the bearings before you do. It's quick, cheap, and easy to do, and it's good insurance against bottom end trouble later.