Rod Shifted a555 or a523

[CDNTurboZ]

My shelby charger right now has the rod shifted a525 in it, but I was thinking of maybe upgrading to something better, the problem is that I don't want to cut up the floor when converiting to the other style shifter. Would be be possible to fabricate the linkage so I can keep my stock a525 shifter but run the better trans??

thanks

[86Shelby]

ABSOLUTELY!!! I have a rod shifted 555 in my GLHT right now. I didn't make the linkage, but it's a solid 8-10 yrs old and works great. The toughest part about it seems to be combining the pivot bracket on the 525 with the bobble strut bracket of the 555. You simply have to get that pivot in the same location relative to the shifter assembly in/on the transmission. You can use the same setup on a 523/568.

[CDNTurboZ]

ABSOLUTELY!!! I have a rod shifted 555 in my GLHT right now. I didn't make the linkage, but it's a solid 8-10 yrs old and works great. The toughest part about it seems to be combining the pivot bracket on the 525 with the bobble strut bracket of the 555. You simply have to get that pivot in the same location relative to the shifter assembly in/on the transmission. You can use the same setup on a 523/568.

thanks for the info:) , do you know of anyone who can make a set???

[DodgeZ]

http://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5770

[cordes]

I did not think that one could use the rod linkage with a 523/568. Well at least withough some more thought put into it.

[tryingbe]

A555 cables require one 1 3/8 inch hole drilled. That's it.

[86Shelby]

I did not think that one could use the rod linkage with a 523/568. Well at least withough some more thought put into it.

Yup, take areal good look at the L-shaped attachment that bolts to the shifter mechanism on the trans on the 568, then the 525. Make the 568 piece look like the 525 and you're golden. Basically drill a hole and transfer one piece over. Easiest if you do the heim joints at the same time; transfering the ball socket seems like a pain, IMO. it make sense once you have the parts infront of you.

Sure you can use the cable shifter and have the shifter in the ash tray while in 1st, 3rd and 5th. I prefer a tight rod linkage, it feels more precise(think Mustang Pro 5.0 shifter) and powershifting is a breeze.

[iTurbo]

Cool, I thought I was going to be stuck using an A525 in my Omni GLH since I refuse to cut the car up and install a cable shifter. I've already modified the K-frame for the bobble strut too. I would rather get one of Cliff's A525/A555 made, but if a rod shifted A568 is possible then I'm all for it!

[rbryant]

Unless you are avoiding modifications to a GLHS I just don't see why you would want this. It is a ton more work than just adding the cables.

Some people seem to like the shift rods but IMO they are a PITA. They pop off, wear out, take up space, are really hard to get on, etc.

Just get a 523 and cables w/ an early Neon shifter then use the automatic tranny hole that is already near the accelerator and then drill another hole in the firewall and you are set.

I actually mix and match cables for the optimal cable setup. I use a short cable (shadow/daytona?) for the short throw in the automatic tranny hole and a long cable (spirit?) for the long throw. Where to cut the extra hole is up to you... On my GLHS I added it right next to the AC drain tube. That way it gets a nice arc to avoid the exhaust (goes behind it) and comes into the tranny at the correct angle (parallel to the starter).

-Rich

[CDNTurboZ]

Cool, I thought I was going to be stuck using an A525 in my Omni GLH since I refuse to cut the car up and install a cable shifter. I've already modified the K-frame for the bobble strut too. I would rather get one of Cliff's A525/A555 made, but if a rod shifted A568 is possible then I'm all for it!

Same with my I really don't want to cut up my shelby charger, sure its no GLHS, but its a nice clean rust free car.

[CDNTurboZ]

http://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5770

awesome link, thanks:)

[DodgeZ]

A555 cables require one 1 3/8 inch hole drilled. That's it.

that's not true.

[rbryant]

that's not true.

Hehe well that is a useless post... :) WHY isn't it true?

I would say you only need about a 7/8" hole and for the 568 but I haven't done a 555.

Another thing you need to do is plug the hole where the shifter was. The best way to do it IMO is to get a shifter plate from an automatic car and just bolt it in (since they plugged the hole on auto cars they are perfect for this).

-Rich

[CDNTurboZ]

Hehe well that is a useless post... :) WHY isn't it true?

I would say you only need about a 7/8" hole and for the 568 but I haven't done a 555.

Another thing you need to do is plug the hole where the shifter was. The best way to do it IMO is to get a shifter plate from an automatic car and just bolt it in (since they plugged the hole on auto cars they are perfect for this).

-Rich


So you're saying if I find an auto turismo/omni, take the auto bracket that comes on those cars and put it on my charger to plug up the hole??

thanks

[DodgeZ]

Hehe well that is a useless post... :) WHY isn't it true?

I would say you only need about a 7/8" hole and for the 568 but I haven't done a 555.

Another thing you need to do is plug the hole where the shifter was. The best way to do it IMO is to get a shifter plate from an automatic car and just bolt it in (since they plugged the hole on auto cars they are perfect for this).

-Rich

5 bucks and I'll find the many posts on it. Another 5 bucks and I'll read it to you. Other then that, drilling ONE hole and a plate IS NOT EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO DO!!! Fabbing up the rods on a 555 or 520 would prolly be just as easy.

[Force Fed Mopar]

It's really not that hard to fab up the brackets for the rods. You just have to do a lot of measuring to make sure everything is in the right spots. I didn't even use the stock 525 pivot brackets, I made my own out of angle iron.

BTW, the shift pattern is different on the 568/523. Not sure that it makes any difference, just thought I'd mention it. I don't know if a stock L-body shifter will go over and down for reverse.

[Whorse]

I can back up the different shift pattern having gone from a 568 to a 523 in my VNT. Might want to double check that on an L body shifter.

[86Shelby]

The L-body shifter itself can go any direction you want it to.

The 523/568 gear shift/selector assembly, which is inside the trans, has a reverse lockout that won't allow it to go into reverse unless you go straight from the nuetral position between 1st & 2nd then right to the reverse position. So there are few worries about not having the reverse lockout in the l-body shifter.

If you are still concerned about that it wouldn't be too difficult to modify the factory reverse lockout on the Lbody shifter to engage only in the right&down position. I could see that being helpful if you are constantly searching for the right gear, say roadracing; though if by chance you go through the motions just right the grinding should let you know that you aren't choosing the right gear. ;)

[phaxtris]

2 1" holes for a 555, use shadow linkages, and your good to go, no screwing around trying to get the proper pivot points, and you know that it will work

ive done a 555 into an auto, putting the shifter in was the easyiest part, the pedals were more of a pain than anything, but you dont have to deal with that!

[rbryant]

So you're saying if I find an auto turismo/omni, take the auto bracket that comes on those cars and put it on my charger to plug up the hole??

thanks

Sorry I didn't describe it well. What you want is the shifter base from the auto shifter. All of the cars came with the hole in the floor for a manual transmission. The Autos just plugged it with the shifter base.

I took the auto shifter base and then trimmed it a bit and put it under my 1st gen Neon shifter for my 568. It is nice because it plugs the hole perfectly and even has the right screw holes for the center console. A custom shift boot is required though because the Neon shifter won't fit under the flat part of the Lbody shift boot.

-Rich

[rbryant]

5 bucks and I'll find the many posts on it. Another 5 bucks and I'll read it to you. Other then that, drilling ONE hole and a plate IS NOT EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO DO!!! Fabbing up the rods on a 555 or 520 would prolly be just as easy.

The only other things I can think of to plug the shifter hole, and mess with the center console. Granted that is kind of a pain to get everything to look right. But since when do our cars look right? :)

-Rich

[DodgeZ]

The only other things I can think of to plug the shifter hole, and mess with the center console. Granted that is kind of a pain to get everything to look right. But since when do our cars look right? :)

-Rich

Let see some pictures of your install.

[rbryant]

Let see some pictures of your install.

Ok I haven't completely finished the console and shift boot. I think I will end up using a custom leather one. In the past I used a Neon boot screwed into the lbody console.

I will send pictures when I play with it again Including the cables from inside and out.

-Rich

[tryingbe]

that's not true.

My bad, you need to drill 4 more holes for sheet metal screws to mount the shifter. So, 4 tiny sheet metal screws hole, one 1 3/8 hole or 4 tiny sheet metal screws holes and 2 1 inch holes.


Here's the A555 cables rubber plug.
http://www.hardcars.com/headerman/dodge/plug.jpg

Here's the pictures of my A568 shifter set up. Same concept, just two holes instead of one. Using two bolts in the stock nuts location to bolt on a block of plate there. Of course, you can just roll the carpet back to do this, no need to cut the carpet.
http://home.pcmagic.net/amazinghl/rim00008.jpg

http://home.pcmagic.net/amazinghl/rim00009.jpg

Put in the boot of your choice. Put all the plastic stuff back in, done.
http://home.pcmagic.net/amazinghl/rim00010.jpg



DodgeZ,

You made everything sounds so difficult. I armed myself with the knowledge that it can be done and I just went and did it, without seeing any other cableshift setup up on L-body.
I designed, marked, drilled, buy parts *sheet metal screws*, and did it under 2 hours.



Fabbing up the rods on a 555 or 520 would prolly be just as easy.

In 2 hours? I love to see it. Maybe you should start making them and sell them for money.

Advise for anybody who wants to do cable shift, you want to drill the hole as close to the DRIVER side as possbile. Fight with the heatshield below is no fun.

[DodgeZ]

DodgeZ,

You made everything sounds so difficult. I armed myself with the knowledge that it can be done and I just went and did it, without seeing any other cableshift setup up on L-body.
I designed, marked, drilled, buy parts *sheet metal screws*, and did it under 2 hours.




In 2 hours? I love to see it. Maybe you should start making them and sell them for money.

Advise for anybody who wants to do cable shift, you want to drill the hole as close to the DRIVER side as possbile. Fight with the heatshield below is no fun.

There is a ghetto way of doing things and the right way of doing things. 4 sheet metal screws holding in your shifter is NOT the right way of doing things. Removing the brackets that hold your center console in is NOT the right way of doing things. Let me guess this is what your rear mount looks like

http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopartek/bobble01.jpg

You also have to add in time for your "2 hour" install for the kframe mount.


Here is information for doing it the RIGHT way.

http://www.extremepsi.org/MembersArea/Chad/HTML/555conversion.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/267451/7

[Whorse]

Would there be anything different if doing this install with an aftermarket short throw shifter? Seems like a good opportunity to install one, or make your own if you are able to weld.

[tryingbe]

There is a ghetto way of doing things and the right way of doing things. 4 sheet metal screws holding in your shifter is NOT the right way of doing things. Removing the brackets that hold your center console in is NOT the right way of doing things. Let me guess this is what your rear mount looks like

http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopartek/bobble01.jpg

You also have to add in time for your "2 hour" install for the kframe mount.


Here is information for doing it the RIGHT way.

http://www.extremepsi.org/MembersArea/Chad/HTML/555conversion.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/267451/7

I knew that picture looks familiar. If it's good enough for Cliff Ramsdell, it's good enough for me. http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopartek/L_body_kframe.html

First, you said, it's not ture that cable shifter can be install via having only one hole drill. While it is true; cable shifter + cables needit needed 1 big hole + 4 holes or 2 medium holes + 4 holes. After I show you how it can be done without cutting anything, you complaint that it is "ghetto" and it's not done RIGHT.

Let me say it again, it was my first time install a cable shifter in the GLH. I did what I saw fit at the time. So, you don't like sheet metal screws with threadlock holding the shifter, would 4 set of nuts, bolts, washers, and threadlock make you feel better? I did not want cut anyting so I put the shifter on top of the old center console brackets and secure it there, is that so wrong? What if I found a new way to secure my center console braket, is that not acceptable by you?

The only reason I posted here is to prove that cable shifter and the cables can be install quite easily without doing anything other than drill holes, no need to cut any sheet metal on the car. I did not post so that you can insult my work by calling it ghetto. My point is across and I'm done with this thread.

You have a good day.

[phaxtris]

There is a ghetto way of doing things and the right way of doing things. 4 sheet metal screws holding in your shifter is NOT the right way of doing things. Removing the brackets that hold your center console in is NOT the right way of doing things. Let me guess this is what your rear mount looks like

You also have to add in time for your "2 hour" install for the kframe mount.


Here is information for doing it the RIGHT way.


did you ever think that mabye there is more than one way of doing things ? and in this case there is no 'right way', mabye my right way would be welding the shifter to the floor, would definatly be more secure than 4 screws

and 2 hrs to weld on 1 additional tab for the bobbel strut ? WOW

lighten up buddy, not everyone does everything the same was as you, and if there were a 'right way' this thread wouldnt exist because it would be in some form of manual where you could go and look it up

[DodgeZ]

I had a long reply typed up but it just isn't worth it.... If you want to install your shifter like that have at it. But just remember it is more then drilling one hole ;)