no spark

[86shelby15psi]

hey i have a 86 s/c fresh t2 steup stage 2 glhs computer ive tried 6 hep 5 used 1 new 3 pm used 2 lm.i have power to the coil when key is on position fuel pump primes timing is dot to dot and rotor turns checked all grounds.looked very close at all wires

[EAGLEGCIL]

Have you checked the distributer and or plug wires/coil wire. also, try running a hot from the + on the coil to the battery + and see if it'll start then. i had a similar problem, and found out, the computer was shutting off the coil during cranking. i ran a wire from the Run Position on the ignition to the coil and it solved the problem.

[Turbodave]

Are you getting any codes?

Has the car run in this configuration before, or is this the first attempt to start it after the swap?

[8valves]

Grab a spark plug from the head and pull each individual cylinder plug wire and place the plug in it. Ground the plug to the head and turn off the lights while cranking the car (it's a good idea to disconnect the fuel injector harness so fuel doesn't wash down yoru walls doing this). See if each cylinder has spark, and if it's a good solid spark as well. That'll help you narrow some things down.

Aaron Miller

[gkcooper]

The first thing you have to do is an on-board diagnostic. The fault codes with lead you in the right direction. If you are unaware how to do the diag look here:

http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html

I used to manage the Mopar Tech Hotline. I am sure you can get it going.

[86shelby15psi]

hey guys the only codes im getting is 11.i had the car running but i had the coil wires hooked up backward so it ran like poop.i tried running a wire to the pos of the battery to the pos of the coil still no spark.plus i dont have any fuel in the motor should i have fuel in the motor as im cranking?i remember changing the fuel rail when i quit haveing spark because i did have spark at on time

[turbovanman²]

Have you checked for fuel pressure? Of course you should have fuel when cranking, :p

[Turbodave]

Code 11 is important, it indicates that the computer isn't seeing engine rotation. To create a spark the computer grounds the coil temporarily, this is done based on the signal from the HEP. When the computer doesn't get this signal you get the code 11.

This could occur due to a faulty HEP, but you say you've tried 6 of them so there's a good chance the problem is elsewhere.

You've checked that the rotor was turning which is a good step.

Have you got a service manual for the car, particularly the wiring diagrams section? My next step would be to check for signal voltage and ground going to the HEP wires and check the continuity of the wires themselves back to the computer.

[GLHSKEN]

Swap a PM.. could be the auto shutdown relay

[86shelby15psi]

cool i did notice that my starter relay use to click but it don't now so i went to car quest and got a new one but it still dont click anymore.how do i check the volts of the hep

[3Bar_Mopar]

Shaved teeth on the timing belt at the intermediate shaft sprocket could stop the distributor from turning....does the engine sound strange sometimes when cranking?

Pop the cap and turn the engine with a breaker bar and see if the rotor turns.

[86shelby15psi]

ya the rotor turn because everytime i swap a hep the rotor was pointing in a different direction each time

[86shelby15psi]

i got a volt meter what should be the frist thing i should check

[Turbodave]

I don't have any wiring diagrams here at work so I can't tell you which pins to check or anything off the top of my head, but I do remember a little bit.

The two hall effect plugs each have three wires. One wire is power to the sensor from the computer, one wire is the signal ground wire back to the computer, and the other wire is the actual signal wire. The power and signal ground wires are shared between the two connectors.

With the key on there should be voltage to each HEP, but again since I don't have a wiring diagram handy I can't tell you which pins to look for what voltage on. Have you got a wiring diagram? Even a basic one from a chiltons or Haynes manual should tell you what you need to know.

[86shelby15psi]

ok i got a book on my car and it told me to hold secondary coil wire near a good ground.intermermittentely short cavity 2 to 3 on the distributor harness connector,should produce spark but it dont.then it says turn the ignition switch on measure voltage in the # 1 disturbitor hardness it should be 1 volt of battery.which i dont .then pull out the 10 bway connector.with a ohmmeter check between cavity 1 of disturbitor and number 3 of 10 way connector.if there is continuity <what does that me?>turn the ignition on and check for battery voltage between #2 and 10 on the 10 way connector which i do it says my computer is bad.let me know what u guys think

[Turbodave]

Continuity means that the wire is able to carry current (ie. not broken). To check a wire you can use the Ohm's setting on a meter, connect the probes to opposite ends of the wire, if it reads close to zero ohm's the wire is ok, if it reads infinite ohm's (same as it does when the probes aren't connected to anything) then the wire is damaged.