New TII/TIII Performance Clutches at TU

[Chris W]

We combine the strength of a TIII Pressure plate with the durability of a TII disk to provide you with a very affordable combination. This clutch is made by our supplier exclusively for TU. It is recommended for both stock and mildly modified applications. The kit includes throw out bearing and clutch alignment tool to make installation a breeze.

Please check out our website for pricing and additional details.

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/index.php?cPath=97

We appreciate everyone's support!

Chris-TU

[Clay]

Wonderful! Chris, Im glad to see you keep expanding the product line!

I cant wait until you are a complete "one stop" shop! That will make buying parts almost too easy!! :thumb:

[gti_7]

Hello

I know, total resurrection from the dead :eyebrows:
I was wondering if anyone could tell me the hp/Tq limits of the TII/TIII clutch/Pressure Plate combo? I don't do clutch drops or *much* ;) clutch slipping, i mostly to runs from a roll :nod:

It would be for a '88 Shelby H body. T2

Thanks
bernard

[moparzrule]

About 250 WHP. But please break it in properly! Nothing more than 1/4 throttle and 7 PSI boost for 300-500 miles, than do whatever you want. Everybody around here seems to think you can install a clutch and go hammer 18 PSI boost on it with 2 miles on the clutch. It slips a lot easier if you don't break it in first, then if you run that kind of power to it and slip it that bad the disc glazes over. Thats when you here people complaining the T2/T3 clutch is junk. The people that break it in properly are pretty happy with it.

[gti_7]

About 250 WHP. But please break it in properly! Nothing more than 1/4 throttle and 7 PSI boost for 300-500 miles, than do whatever you want. Everybody around here seems to think you can install a clutch and go hammer 18 PSI boost on it with 2 miles on the clutch. It slips a lot easier if you don't break it in first, then if you run that kind of power to it and slip it that bad the disc glazes over. Thats when you here people complaining the T2/T3 clutch is junk. The people that break it in properly are pretty happy with it.


Seven pounds of boost for 3-500 MILES?! :ballchain: Thats almost equal in distance to breaking in a motor. I am going to have to show a lot of constrant when i change my clutch LOL.

250whp is decent though.. that should get me to my goal :eyebrows:

Thanks Moparzrule for the help :D

bernard

[moparzrule]

LOL, it will pay off trust me. It's not like breaking in an engine though, highway miles don't count. You need lots of clutch engagement/disengagments in that 300 miles.

[gti_7]

LOL, it will pay off trust me. It's not like breaking in an engine though, highway miles don't count. You need lots of clutch engagement/disengagments in that 300 miles.

i've finally started to get things done on the car, so buy the time the clutch install starts, most of everything else will be done and the car will be a joy to drive again! I am really anxious to install a ported stock exhaust mani i have of yours to see how it does!

Is engine braking a forbidden while breaking in a clutch?

Thanks again for the heads up regarding the clutch. seeing as i only do about 7.5miles a day in driving, its going to be a very loooong 300 miles lol :nod: maybe if i double clutch.. ya, it will double the number of times i would normally use the clutch :eyebrows:



bernard

[moparzrule]

If you run a straight vacuum line to the wastegate you should only have 5-7 PSI boost and it will not come on as hard. This is what I do when I have a fresh engine with a fresh clutch and you need to seat the rings on the engine.
No you can engine break thats OK.

[butchsuppe]

Brakes are better and cheaper for slowing down, why put the extra stress on the drivetrain.

[moparzrule]

I guarentee you that launching a car from a dead stop puts tons more stress on anything in the drivetrain than engine breaking. It harms nothing.

[tryingbe]

Brakes are better and cheaper for slowing down, why put the extra stress on the drivetrain.

Unless you're going down a 14% mountain road...

[moparzrule]

He likes replacing his warped rotors a lot....

[gti_7]

If you run a straight vacuum line to the wastegate you should only have 5-7 PSI boost and it will not come on as hard. This is what I do when I have a fresh engine with a fresh clutch and you need to seat the rings on the engine.
No you can engine break thats OK.

I guess the grainger is going on a vacation then :D
And i will have to let the computer do the controlling again. Wow this is going to stink! :faint:

I am addicted now to 14, never mind when i get acustom to 18.. so 5-7 psi is going to be a constantl :fencing: between my brain and common sense!

ah well. Thanks again Moparzrule for the help! Final question, the actual parts used in this clutch combo, where are they sourced from? are they actual OEM units?

Bernard

[moparzrule]

No problem. The disc I am not sure, but I do believe both major vendors use the sachs pressure plate. A very good plate. TU's disc is a little better than FWD's, a bit stronger construction. My FWD unit ripped the hub out of the disc at 260 WHP, though the clutch itself never slipped and this was in a very heavy daytona fully loaded with power options not to mention my heavy tool box and other stuff in the back probably adding another 200 pounds.

[gti_7]

Brakes are better and cheaper for slowing down, why put the extra stress on the drivetrain.

By engine braking i should have been more specific. I dont engine brake as though i run a Big Rig. I engine brake in the under 2.5K rpm range when A. Approaching a turn off B. when approaching a traffic light or stop sign or C. when creeping in bumper to bumper traffic.

I use my brakes at the last minute to stop usually, but i do not modulate them so hard as to have it affect passanger G forces. i leave that [G forces] for the curves and moments of WOT :eyebrows:

Bernard

[butchsuppe]

He likes replacing his warped rotors a lot....

No I don't have to replace warped rotors as I know how to drive, even down a mountain. :D

[moparzrule]

Good for you. You still wear down your brake pads prematurely for no reason ;)

[butchsuppe]

Better brake pads than clutch disc.:D

[moparzrule]

What are you talking about? How about better neither. You say you know how to drive? Apparently not. If you know how to drive you match the RPM's before letting the clutch out.

[butchsuppe]

For those who don't know how to drive : better brake pads than clutch disc.:D

[moparzrule]

For those who don't know how to drive : better brake pads than clutch disc.:D


:rolleyes: