90Dodgevnt
11-08-2006, 06:46 PM
Ahh...
Guess it's time for me to update some pics on the project I am working on.
Recently installed TU Header, VNT S60, custom radiator/fan, etc.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/drainback1.jpg
1st pic is of the oild drain back line. I had to cut the oil VNT drainback line in almost 1/2 since the mounting flange was completely different from the drain back line supplied. After cutting the line I had to use 2 sections of silicone to attach it to the block fitting. It wasn't a monster to do, but just time consuming since each time I cut the silicone I had to make sure it would fit and everything would clear. Also, Chris from TU advised me the 89 VNT and 90 VNT drain back lines are different, in that the 89 version does not have the nipple on it. Don’t ask me why… Gotta love Chrysler.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/drainback23.jpg
2nd pic is a comparison of the stock VNT drain back and the hybrid drain back. I cut the VNT drain back about 1/2 up from the nipple and used about 1 inch of silicone, then I used the VNT metal pipe w/ the nipple, another section of silicone about 3 inches long after that.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/oildrainbackbrass.jpg
3rd pic is of my $674 brass drain back line. Orig. line was snapped off in the block by a garage (thanks Bat Auto) and both they and one of the vendors played stupid when it came time to pay for the damages.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/headerbolts.jpg
4th pic is of the TU header from the bottom. The bolts supplied were short by about 1/2 inch, so in one of my many runs to the parts store, I picked up 4 longer bolts/nuts. Another thing to remember if anyone tries to use the TU header with a VNT turbo: the stud in the VNT turbo will NOT fit in the header bolt hole. The stud needs to be pulled out and a regular bolt is needed there.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/drainback2.jpg
5th pic is from the bottom. You can see the coolant return line here, and also part of the clutch cable that I covered in hi-temp tape since it comes in contact with the down pipe.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/header1.jpg
6th pic is a shot of the header. In this pic you can see that I used nuts on the head studs, but no washers. There was zero room to used the stock bolts/caps, and this was after using a dremel on each runner to clear up some of the welding. I used plenty of high temp loc-tite and torqued each nut, so hopefully nothing will loosen up. If it does, well it's pretty easy to get to the studs/bolts...
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/exhauststraps.jpg
7th pic is a shot of the exhaust I had to cut. Leaving it stock threw the down pipe off about 2 inches or so. I had recalled there being something about cutting the exhaust in a thread on TD.com, but it didn't really have any pics of what part to cut. It was actually easier then I thought. On the down pipe after the 2nd bend, there is another bend that needs to be completely cut off and a section of straight pipe used. Now Chris can attest that I was apprehensive about cutting the down pipe since I didn't want to screw it up, but after crawling under the car and really looking at it, it was no sweat. Just took a reciprocating saw and cut off the piece in question, and then mounted up the down pipe to the turbo. From there it was a matter of using a 3 inch straight section of exhaust, measuring it, cutting it, and then slapping on two exhaust straps. The actual section of pipe I used was about 2-3 inches long and I could've gotten away from using a 2nd exhaust strap since one side of the straight pipe was a slip fit, so I could've used a 3 inch exhaust clamp instead.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/headerfromthetop.jpg
8th pic is from the top. Shows how far the turbo is kicked out from behind the engine. The heater core lines had to be cut off to allow a silicone 90 to fit in. It's a very tight fit at the brake booster, but it's manageable. I didn't want to use the "accordion style" intake hose as I thought it looked kinda cheesy, and the silicone 90 was only $40...
You can also see the top the turbo drain back line and the coolant/oil lines. Took a bit of tweaking to get them routed right, but pretty easy to install.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/intercoolerlinemockup-1.jpg
9th pic is a mock-up of the intercooler hoses. I am switching the upper and lower intercooler lines to mandrel bent exhaust (Racing solutions) since the aluminum garbage bends really easy, or slips apart under boost. And I used T-bolt clamps and dimpled the aluminum. I didn't really feel like spending $$$ to get beads welded to the pipes since there is only ONE aluminum welder in Austin, and he charges $75 an hour. Much cheaper to use exhaust and weld on beads if necessary, and even then, it's cheaper to weld and much stronger then aluminum. Also, exhaust does not stain as bad if you spray it with hot coolant (you can see the coolant stains on some of the pipes). Lesson learned.
And yes, it's a generic RFL...*sigh*
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/airfiler.jpg
Pic 10 is a shot of the cone filter. I moved the battery to the trunk in March, so now I have all the room in the world for intercooler lines.
Guess it's time for me to update some pics on the project I am working on.
Recently installed TU Header, VNT S60, custom radiator/fan, etc.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/drainback1.jpg
1st pic is of the oild drain back line. I had to cut the oil VNT drainback line in almost 1/2 since the mounting flange was completely different from the drain back line supplied. After cutting the line I had to use 2 sections of silicone to attach it to the block fitting. It wasn't a monster to do, but just time consuming since each time I cut the silicone I had to make sure it would fit and everything would clear. Also, Chris from TU advised me the 89 VNT and 90 VNT drain back lines are different, in that the 89 version does not have the nipple on it. Don’t ask me why… Gotta love Chrysler.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/drainback23.jpg
2nd pic is a comparison of the stock VNT drain back and the hybrid drain back. I cut the VNT drain back about 1/2 up from the nipple and used about 1 inch of silicone, then I used the VNT metal pipe w/ the nipple, another section of silicone about 3 inches long after that.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/oildrainbackbrass.jpg
3rd pic is of my $674 brass drain back line. Orig. line was snapped off in the block by a garage (thanks Bat Auto) and both they and one of the vendors played stupid when it came time to pay for the damages.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/headerbolts.jpg
4th pic is of the TU header from the bottom. The bolts supplied were short by about 1/2 inch, so in one of my many runs to the parts store, I picked up 4 longer bolts/nuts. Another thing to remember if anyone tries to use the TU header with a VNT turbo: the stud in the VNT turbo will NOT fit in the header bolt hole. The stud needs to be pulled out and a regular bolt is needed there.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/drainback2.jpg
5th pic is from the bottom. You can see the coolant return line here, and also part of the clutch cable that I covered in hi-temp tape since it comes in contact with the down pipe.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/header1.jpg
6th pic is a shot of the header. In this pic you can see that I used nuts on the head studs, but no washers. There was zero room to used the stock bolts/caps, and this was after using a dremel on each runner to clear up some of the welding. I used plenty of high temp loc-tite and torqued each nut, so hopefully nothing will loosen up. If it does, well it's pretty easy to get to the studs/bolts...
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/exhauststraps.jpg
7th pic is a shot of the exhaust I had to cut. Leaving it stock threw the down pipe off about 2 inches or so. I had recalled there being something about cutting the exhaust in a thread on TD.com, but it didn't really have any pics of what part to cut. It was actually easier then I thought. On the down pipe after the 2nd bend, there is another bend that needs to be completely cut off and a section of straight pipe used. Now Chris can attest that I was apprehensive about cutting the down pipe since I didn't want to screw it up, but after crawling under the car and really looking at it, it was no sweat. Just took a reciprocating saw and cut off the piece in question, and then mounted up the down pipe to the turbo. From there it was a matter of using a 3 inch straight section of exhaust, measuring it, cutting it, and then slapping on two exhaust straps. The actual section of pipe I used was about 2-3 inches long and I could've gotten away from using a 2nd exhaust strap since one side of the straight pipe was a slip fit, so I could've used a 3 inch exhaust clamp instead.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/headerfromthetop.jpg
8th pic is from the top. Shows how far the turbo is kicked out from behind the engine. The heater core lines had to be cut off to allow a silicone 90 to fit in. It's a very tight fit at the brake booster, but it's manageable. I didn't want to use the "accordion style" intake hose as I thought it looked kinda cheesy, and the silicone 90 was only $40...
You can also see the top the turbo drain back line and the coolant/oil lines. Took a bit of tweaking to get them routed right, but pretty easy to install.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/intercoolerlinemockup-1.jpg
9th pic is a mock-up of the intercooler hoses. I am switching the upper and lower intercooler lines to mandrel bent exhaust (Racing solutions) since the aluminum garbage bends really easy, or slips apart under boost. And I used T-bolt clamps and dimpled the aluminum. I didn't really feel like spending $$$ to get beads welded to the pipes since there is only ONE aluminum welder in Austin, and he charges $75 an hour. Much cheaper to use exhaust and weld on beads if necessary, and even then, it's cheaper to weld and much stronger then aluminum. Also, exhaust does not stain as bad if you spray it with hot coolant (you can see the coolant stains on some of the pipes). Lesson learned.
And yes, it's a generic RFL...*sigh*
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/airfiler.jpg
Pic 10 is a shot of the cone filter. I moved the battery to the trunk in March, so now I have all the room in the world for intercooler lines.