Home built 3" swing valve?

[Anonymous_User]

Thought -

Take a stock swing valve, cut so that I'm left with the flange and flapper valve. Weld on a 3" weld ell and attach a 3" ballflange:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLO%2D15930&N=700+4294923429+115&autoview=sku

Would require a 3" downpipe or custom built pipe. I have nothing but time right now, so would this be a viable modification?

[Frank]

Well depends on two factors... how much your time is worth and how much fustration you will save. I am sure it can be done. However after you go about building/bending a new downpipe, welding up thick enough pipe to the flange without killing your original flange, pucks, and a tight enough bends to make it viable without impacting other things. Just my 2 cents.

I would just buy the 3" swingvalve.... the research and development has already been done on this by Chris. That is what makes alot of these parts worth it.

[Anonymous_User]

I would just buy the 3" swingvalve.... the research and development has already been done on this by Chris. That is what makes alot of these parts worth it.


Yeah, you are probably right. Threads like this happen when I sit here unemployed and bored sensless.

[Frank]

You obviously have the understanding of this, however for the rest, here is a perfect example about R&D by our vendors.

I like to think of it this way... DBB Mini payed probably $400 less for a GT28 turbo from some random vendor like ATP instead of Chris. Since Chris is the only person to have the ability to sell Chrysler style housings, he had to cut the flange off a TU header, make a custom downpipe, weld a external wastegate onto his TU header, buy the external wastegate, etc. Not to mention the time.

Is the wastegate this extreme? No way. Ultimately its up to you. If I had the time and equipment, I would go thru the pains of a wastegate just because I would love the learning aspect of it. However that is not the case.


Sorry to ramble!!!! LOL!!!!

[guyd_15]

I made 2 it wasn't bad. Turned out real nice.

Frank's points are right though. I just didn't have money at the time

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115700

Guy Douglas

[johnl]

Making a "good" weld with cast iron is a trick. Then there is the complication of making a "good" weld of the thin wall steel of the ball flange to the thick cast iron of the original SV. After your done you've got mild steel welded to/incorporated into one of the hottest parts of the entire engine. OEMs make headers and SVs and exhaust turbines out of cast iron because it is more durable than steel in a high heat environment. You can do it. It will work. Just too hard and the end product likely will have a short life - compared to the TU unit.

[MiniMopar]

+1 to Chris's unit "just working". It's nice not to have to fabricate some things, but like Frank said it's all about how much your time is worth.

My only gripe with the TU unit is how close the left side downpipe bolt hole comes to the exhaust scroll...at least with my .63 A/R scroll. I had to use a little nut (the OEM exhaust manifold nut) and even then I couldn't really get a wrench on it. Gonna be fun when I have to remove it. I should have welded my own tab to it, in retrospect.

[phaxtris]

i have made 2 differant styles of custom swing valves, both more intricate than the thread starter is contemplating, and time from start to finish....about 3.5 hrs, the average guy (read not welder or metal worker) i would say tops of about 8 hrs, unless your worth 30+ an hr, its worth it, plus it can be a fun project if metal working intrests you


as for the flange warping, bolt the swingvalve onto a junk turbo for welding/cooling, if using a 3" weld el, use nickel based rods (stick) designed for welding cast and peen when complete, cool slow, if using stainless tig with stainless rod and peen when complete, cool slow

Edit; so in other words, giver sh1t! :thumb:

[Garret]

Yeah Ryan welded up the one my car for a mitsu turbo... Mmmm instant spool and no boost creep the SV is a huge restriction on the mitsu

[beavis1313]

here are some pics of one of the 3" stainless steel V band clamp swing valve I had a friend make
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/9917/sssv3jz.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1236/sssv21uf.jpg

[turboshad]

Take a stock swing valve, cut so that I'm left with the flange and flapper valve. Weld on a 3" weld ell and attach a 3" ballflange:



Bingo.......except I used a 3 bolt flange and a flex piece in the down pipe. It moved things over to the pass side a tad but everything fit fine.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/621000-621999/621520_50_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/621000-621999/621520_69_full.jpg

DJ

[whywoody]

I built a similar piece for my holset.:thumb:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1741&d=1153806135
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1742&d=1153806135

[Dez]

here are some pics of one of the 3" stainless steel V band clamp swing valve I had a friend make
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/9917/sssv3jz.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1236/sssv21uf.jpg

That's sweet, can your friend make me one? :]

[Garret]

I could make you one of those too LOL

[Dez]

haha, if the price is right, then maybe next year :]

[Garret]

Price is always right