View Full Version : Dropping the k-frame
I broke the tabs I had welded on my k-frame for the bobble strut.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/jvory/1992%20Dodge%20Spirit/DSCF0071.jpg
I went to the junkyard to get a manual k-frame and I couldn't remove the things that have the balljoints on them (control arm?) from the k-frame. I don't want to use the junkyard control arms because my car has brand new balljoints. I broke two of the big bolts that hold the k-frame to the body while i was removing it. It seems pretty hard to get the k-frame out if the transmission is still there. The car at the junkyard already had the tranny dropped by me, so it was pretty easy to reach the bolts.
What all is involved in dropping the k-frame. I couldnt find anything about it in the haynes manual unfortunately. If I break the bolts on my car, could I replace them with new ones? Will my car need an alignment after I put the new k-frame in? Anybody who has done this before I would appreciate any tips on this. I do plan on getting the new k-frame welded up to make it stronger, then I'm going to paint it and install it.
BadAssPerformance
11-05-2006, 12:46 AM
The K-frame is only held to the unibody by 2 bolts and 2 nuts. Additionally there is the trans mount (for the manuals), steering rack, stabilizer bar and LCA's. It is easier to take it off of the unibody with the LCA'a and stabilizer bar connected, and then remove them afterwards.
So the simplest way would be to pop both lower LCA ball joints, unbolt the trans strut, remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering rack to it (might have to also remove tin sheilds to get access to those bolts) then remove 2 bols and 2 nuts to drop the k-frame. once removed, you can remove the LCAs and stabilizer bar as needed.
make sure to take a prybar or strong pipe with you to assist seperating the ball joint from the spindle. either use the prybar between the top of the control arm and the k-frame and pry there, or get a small length of chain and hook it around the control arm near the ball joint, and slide the bar through it and push on that. a good sized hand sledge helps sometimes too. bang the ---- out of it, never broken a control arm :P
turbovanman
11-05-2006, 01:32 AM
Presoak the car bolts with penatrating fluid.
When lowering down with a jack, use a piece of wood thats aprox 2 ft wide and as long as the K-frame, this helps stabilize it. After you remove the pinch bolts, use the pry bar to open up the pinch part?, this will let the ball joint slide out. When everything is undone, lower the K-member and it should drop down, you will have to tap the CA's with a hammer but it will just slide out. No need to pry down the CA's.
Whorse
11-05-2006, 03:44 AM
At a junkyard I talked to a guy who always unbolted his strut assembly to pop out the ball joint. I thought about it and thought it was too much work. When I was leaving he was just collecting his stuff, and we started talking. Part way through the conversation he asked if these cars had problems with unequal body roll going different directions, which got me thinking that it's probably not a good idea to unbolt the strut assembly if you're having trouble. Bring the biggest breaker bar you can, and definitely unbolt the sway bar before doing it. Everytime I neglect to do that thinking I can just jump on a prybar, and end up under the car with my 15mm and 18mm sockets and wrenches.
turbovanman
11-05-2006, 04:33 AM
Don't undo the strut, you'll need an alignment. Don't unbolt the sway bar as it won't help. YOU REMOVING THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY, when you lower it down, you don't need a big --- pry bar as theres no force pushing up the control arm. The only reason you would remove the sway bar is it might be easier on the car.
Whorse
11-05-2006, 05:35 AM
Removing the sway bar helps for popping the ball joint, if that route is chosen. Not necessary, but on a car with the larger sway bar, like my GTC Lebaron, it makes a big difference separating the ball joints.
turbovanman
11-05-2006, 05:37 PM
Removing the sway bar helps for popping the ball joint, if that route is chosen. Not necessary, but on a car with the larger sway bar, like my GTC Lebaron, it makes a big difference separating the ball joints.
Not if your removing the K-member and not if you spread the pinch bolt clamps like I said. Trust me, I've done this a few times, :eyebrows:
Whorse
11-05-2006, 05:42 PM
If he's removing the control arms won't he need to unbolt the swaybar anyhow?
turbovanman
11-05-2006, 06:10 PM
If he's removing the control arms won't he need to unbolt the swaybar anyhow?
True, I already addressed that earlier, :p
Its easier to remove the entire assembly then take it apart on the floor. Again, trust me, been there, done that, :thumb:
Whorse
11-05-2006, 06:14 PM
How heavy is it? When I had it loose (not dropped) in the van it seemed pretty hefty, although that's still with the steering rack on.
I'll be going back to the junkyard this week to finish dropping the k-frame. Thanks for the tips guys, keep em coming :thumb:
Whorse, you said the Lebaron GTC has a thicker sway bar? there are a few lebaron verts at the yard, and one of them is a GTC
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/jvory/1992%20Dodge%20Spirit/junkyard%20pics%2010-26-2006/2006_10260034.jpg
Whorse
11-05-2006, 09:14 PM
Compare the sway bar on that one to one on say almost any T1 car. GTCs and Shelby Daytonas (CSX as well I believe) have an 1-1/8" diameter sway bar. I think the stock T1 cars and highline cars were 7/8", and the N/A entry level cars were 3/4" sway bar.
I know that the one I popped on a 90 Spirit T1 was noticeably easier than the one on my 90 GTC Lebaron.
Mopar_Nutz
11-05-2006, 10:32 PM
I think the swaybars are 1-1/16" on base models, 1-1/8" on the ES level, and 1-1/4 on "shelby" level.
Whorse
11-05-2006, 10:41 PM
I was just going by what Allpar had on it, but didn't sound 100% certain. I think we will all agree that the Shelby/GTC cars had the beefiest swaybar and it's a good upgrade for handling because it's a stock replacement part.
turbovanman
11-05-2006, 10:42 PM
And of course, make sure you get the right sway bar, if it has cast control arms won't fit older and vice versa.
Whorse
11-05-2006, 10:47 PM
Isn't he swapping control arms to stamped?
turbovanman
11-05-2006, 11:10 PM
Isn't he swapping control arms to stamped?
He can if he has the right K-member.
I'll be keeping the stock '92 control arms on my car since I just put brand new balljoints in. The Lebaron GTC is a 94 V6 so it should have the same later-model control arms as mine right? The car that is donating the k-frame is a 93 shadow 5 speed.
turbovanman
11-06-2006, 02:24 AM
I'll be keeping the stock '92 control arms on my car since I just put brand new balljoints in. The Lebaron GTC is a 94 V6 so it should have the same later-model control arms as mine right? The car that is donating the k-frame is a 93 shadow 5 speed.
Anything car 91 and up is ok.
I went back to the junkyard today. I unbolted the steering rack and the struts, and pulled off the tie rod ends. I dropped the motor to make it easier to work there too. The only thing I have left is the one bolt holding the k-frame to the body that is stuck. The clip thing stripped so the bolt turned as I was turning it. I didnt bring the hack saw today so I couldnt cut it off.
this is the bolt that was stuck:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/jvory/1992%20Dodge%20Spirit/junkyard%2011-6-2006/2006_11060084.jpg
almost out
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/jvory/1992%20Dodge%20Spirit/junkyard%2011-6-2006/2006_11060083.jpg
I'm going back tomorrow to finish removing it, then I'll unbolt the control arms and buy it.
Well I got the k-frame out. The control arms are still attached though. I cant get the bolts out, should they thread out or can I hit them with a hammer? I got the thicker sway bar from the Lebaron GTC too.
I ordered a walker glasspack muffler today, I'm going to pick it up tomorrow then its all going in this weekend.
turbovanman
11-07-2006, 07:06 PM
Well I got the k-frame out. The control arms are still attached though. I cant get the bolts out, should they thread out or can I hit them with a hammer? I got the thicker sway bar from the Lebaron GTC too.
I ordered a walker glasspack muffler today, I'm going to pick it up tomorrow then its all going in this weekend.
If there stuck, try a little heat and a BFH. If that doesn't work, your going to have to cut off the bolt ends and slide the control arm out. The bolts are stuck to the metal sleeve and theres no easy way to get them out.
ok.. will do. The parts are in my buddies garage right now and they will be going in this weekend.
Does the 94 Lebaron GTC really 100% have a bigger 1 1/8" sway bar? I compared it to the base 93 shadow and they looked identical, and the bushings even fit between the two. I havent compared it to my car yet.
Whorse
11-09-2006, 01:53 AM
Hmm...someone would have to doublecheck. I know for sure the 89 and 90 GTCs all had it, and I've seen a 92 GTC V6 that also had it.
banger68
11-09-2006, 11:54 AM
The only thing I have left is the one bolt holding the k-frame to the body that is stuck. The clip thing stripped so the bolt turned as I was turning it. I didnt bring the hack saw today so I couldnt cut it off.
this is the bolt that was stuck:
There are access slots to the head of the bolts. If the clip strips you can fit a open end wrench in to hold the bolt. It's a PITA by yourself though.
I decided to not drop the k frame. I'm going to cut off the bracket and weld it onto my stock frame, it's not worth the trouble to do all that just for a small bracket.
I put the sway bar from the Lebaron GTC in my car. they were the same size but mine was really worn out so I swapped them.
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