fuel pump replace..

[86lance]

hard to do on an 86 lancer es? How exactly does it come out? anything special or tricky to watch out for?

[86lance]

bumpity

[cordes]

It should not be too bad. I have done a couple fuel pumps and the worst part I have experienced is the bolts that hold the straps up break when you try to remove them.

[86lance]

hmm,gota get it on stands and take a better look,are the straps inside of the tank?

[85_600]

hmm,gota get it on stands and take a better look,are the straps inside of the tank?

Probably the straps that hold the tank up. I was just underneath my 600 the other day and noticed that mine don't look too bad. They are exposed to the elements pretty good. Another guess would be any of the bolts / straps holding the filter on ( if yours is back near the tank ).

I'd spray them down REALLY good with either TriFLow or PB Blaster. Both of those work REALLY good. Spray them down good and then let them sit for an hour or so, depending on how corrorded the bolts / straps are.

[BadAssPerformance]

+1 on PB Blasting the strap bolts...

Steps to do it;

1 - make sure gas tank is not full, close to empty is best
2 - make sure fuel system is de-pressurized (disconect power wires at pump then cycle key or de-pressurise at fuel rail)
3 - put car safely up on jackstands
4 - PB blast or other penetrating oil on strap bolts
5 - disconnect wires going to tank sending unit / pump
6 - disconnect hoses at pump (may be easier when lowered)
7 - place floor jack with board across it under tank
8 - jack it up till it touches tank
9 - after setting, loosen and remove strap bolts
10 - gently lower jack under gas tank to lower tank
11 - turn pump lock ring counter-clockwise using punch (or screwdriver) and hammer
12 - remove locing ring ensuring no crap gets into tank
13 - gently remove the pump / sending until assembly making sure not to lose o-ring gasket in tank
14 - swap out pump in assembly harness if you dont have a whole new assebly
15 - install in reverse order

[86lance]

weird i always thought u didnt need to remove the gas tank to switch out a fuel pump. Isnt that why the rear of the tank is curved with the wires coming out of it?

[J&H Ryan]

weird i always thought u didnt need to remove the gas tank to switch out a fuel pump. Isnt that why the rear of the tank is curved with the wires coming out of it?
Nope. :thumb:

besides, if your locking rings are rusty, they're a pita to hammer off when its on the floor in front of you, much less up in the air. Make sure you take off your filter bolt (should be replaced anyway) and the exhaust shields may get in the way.

[86lance]

hehe funny what exhaust shields? Those were prolly moved long ago to accomodate for a 2.5 inch mandrel bend exhaust system,now theres a 3 inch side exit! lol Guess im towin the car to school to get the tank out of her. Or completely rule out the fuel pump being fried out

[J&H Ryan]

Have you just hotwired the pump? that will rule out any sort of asd/logic module issues

[87glhs232]

Mike,
you can try running a temp feed to the pump. Make a positive and negative jumper, then jump from a battery directly to the pump. If the pump whirrs to life and doesn't sound like it does when you where performing your other tests (kinda weak and sputtery if I remember) and sounds normal, then it's probably time to look elsewhere . You could put a 10amp fuse inline on the positive jumper to see if the pump is drawing to much. Have you tested the coil like we talked about? If you've got no +12v at the coil, and no power at the pump....well....time to work back through Z1 me thinks.

[87glhs232]

Have you just hotwired the pump? that will rule out any sort of asd/logic module issues

hehe, what he said.

[86lance]

well if i hot wire the pump wouldnt that mean asd relay,related circuitry and what not? Ill try hotwiring the fuel pump and check for 12v at the coil tomorrow night,had no time tonight,stupid mazda

[87glhs232]

well if i hot wire the pump wouldnt that mean asd relay,related circuitry and what not? Ill try hotwiring the fuel pump and check for 12v at the coil tomorrow night,had no time tonight,stupid mazda

Could be ASD, could be Z1. TEST FOR VOLTAGE AT + COIL FEED! Need to know if there is voltage there.

[John B]

Is a '91 Shadow a similar procedure?

[cordes]

Is a '91 Shadow a similar procedure?

Yep. They are all pretty much the same. The pump location for the L bodys is different I believe, but I have hardly looked at that on mine, as I have not really made it out of the engine bay yet.

[BadAssPerformance]

weird i always thought u didnt need to remove the gas tank to switch out a fuel pump. Isnt that why the rear of the tank is curved with the wires coming out of it?

If you really like puzzles you can do it that way.

[Dietro]

Is a '91 Shadow a similar procedure?

Even moreso!

To answer the question about being able to do this while the tank is still in the car, yes, it CAN be done....on pre-'91 cars. And truth be told, it isn't that difficult because the pump assembly is quite a bit smaller than the opening it has to come out of, and it is also somewhat flexible. Doing it that way though requires extra vigilance to avoid any O-ring issues.

On a '91-up car (may be '90-up, but I know for sure it is '91+), the pump assembly is almost the exact size of the hole you are pulling it out of, so it HAS be dropped. If the tank is empty, or almost empty and you feel like wrestling for a half an hour or so trying to get just the right angle, you can still leave it partially in the car.

Oh, and the "official recommendation" is to use a copper punch to loosen the lock ring, because it won't spark. Though on every one I've done, I've used a screwdriver....call me lucky I guess. ;)

[86lance]

alright i checked for voltage at the coil and im getting 11.56,which is all the battery has to put out since ive been testing it and what not.

[86lance]

so what does that mean? good or bad?

[87glhs232]

Good. Did you test voltage at the pump plug? Should be the same or maybe a few hundredths lower (voltage drop)

[Dietro]

Wouldn't this ^^^ be true only if you are cranking it? If you just turn the key to on, the ASD will allow the pump to fire off to prime the system, but then shut the pump off completely until you crank the car. Correct?

[87glhs232]

Wouldn't this ^^^ be true only if you are cranking it? If you just turn the key to on, the ASD will allow the pump to fire off to prime the system, but then shut the pump off completely until you crank the car. Correct?
You are correct. He will have to have a friend crank the car while he tests.

[86lance]

aww,but i have no friends,lol just kidding. ummm i have to have a buddy crank while i check for 12v at the coil? Or crank while checking for 12v at the pump?

[cordes]

Even moreso!

Oh, and the "official recommendation" is to use a copper punch to loosen the lock ring, because it won't spark. Though on every one I've done, I've used a screwdriver....call me lucky I guess. ;)

I use a brass punch, and it works well too.

[86lance]

time to go check voltages...

[86lance]

ok which plug on the fuel tank is for the fuel pump,the 2 wire or the 3 wire?

[86lance]

haha i hope someone can answer this fast...lol i have work in 20 minutes

[86lance]

ok i pulled the plugs off the tank(pain in the ---!) well i checked for voltage across the two prong plug and got nothing. I switched the wires on my multimeter and still got no voltage,ok.not good. I checked voltage across the fuel sending unit(3 wires i think) and got around 5-7 volts or so.

[86lance]

damnit,i forgot i need someone to crank the car for me,shiot,lol

[86lance]

alright,well for shits and giggles i went under there with my battery with two wires hooked to it and stuck on into the fuel pump and then another and then a big --- spark,guess i figured out where my short is comin from..NOW for the tests like checking for voltage at my fuel pump wiring do i need the power module hooked up or no? i really dont want to hook up the good one only for this ---- fuel pump to pop it again!

[86lance]

hmmm neone?

[86lance]

ok,lol the fuel tank is on the ground as im typing this and i need to know just which damn hole is the fuel pump hole. the one with one tube coming out of it,or the onewith two tubes coming out of it,this is on an 86 lance es

[cordes]

ok,lol the fuel tank is on the ground as im typing this and i need to know just which damn hole is the fuel pump hole. the one with one tube coming out of it,or the onewith two tubes coming out of it,this is on an 86 lance es

The hole for the pump on my shadow had the two holes coming out of it. One for the feed line and one for the return.

[cordes]

See if this diagram helps.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8008ca8f.gif

[86lance]

alrighty,well i pulled the pump(piece of cake) and hooked two wires to it and the battery and the little bugger buzzed to life:( . HOWEVER when i disconnected the damn plug that powers it like where it clips onto the little plate of the fuel pump.....well the stupid power wires for the pump(the ones inside the tank) were NOT connected to anything,just dangling in the breeze...ahem......gasoline.....Could all my problems be caused by the damn connector falling off inside the tank or something?

[cordes]

alrighty,well i pulled the pump(piece of cake) and hooked two wires to it and the battery and the little bugger buzzed to life:( . HOWEVER when i disconnected the damn plug that powers it like where it clips onto the little plate of the fuel pump.....well the stupid power wires for the pump(the ones inside the tank) were NOT connected to anything,just dangling in the breeze...ahem......gasoline.....Could all my problems be caused by the damn connector falling off inside the tank or something?


yeah, the wires that connect to the tank are the power and ground for the pump. They travel to the body of the pump itself, and if disconected in the tank would thus cause it not to function.

[86lance]

but how are they physicall atatched to this darn plate? would it be alright to lengthen them a little bit and just poke them out of the tank for a better connection?

[cordes]

but how are they physicall atatched to this darn plate? would it be alright to lengthen them a little bit and just poke them out of the tank for a better connection?


I don't really recall how they are attached to the place. Soldered perhaps? The JY would be a good place to get a new hanger should your prove to be shot. A hanger out of any turbo or TBI car from that erra should work.

[86lance]

nah the hanger is fine,its where the wires physically attach to the plate is where their not connected

[cordes]

nah the hanger is fine,its where the wires physically attach to the plate is where their not connected

I thought that the hanger was an integral piece of the plate? anywho hopefully some one can chime in with the origional method of attachment.

[86lance]

lol hopefully

[Dietro]

Listen while you have it out.....REPLACE the pump! Nothing worse than fixing the wiring problem only to have the pump itself crap out next month and you'll be doing the same job all over again.

In fact, if you buy a new pump, perhaps the "connection method" will be 'splained in the 'structions. ;)

[cordes]

Listen while you have it out.....REPLACE the pump! Nothing worse than fixing the wiring problem only to have the pump itself crap out next month and you'll be doing the same job all over again.

In fact, if you buy a new pump, perhaps the "connection method" will be 'splained in the 'structions. ;)


At the parts stores around here they will only sell you the whole hanger/pump assy, but it is around 200 bucks. You could get a walbro 255 and a replacement hanger from the JY for much less than that. Good advise as far as replacing the old pump for sure though.

[John B]

Even moreso!

On a '91-up car (may be '90-up, but I know for sure it is '91+), the pump assembly is almost the exact size of the hole you are pulling it out of, so it HAS be dropped. If the tank is empty, or almost empty and you feel like wrestling for a half an hour or so trying to get just the right angle, you can still leave it partially in the car.

Oh, and the "official recommendation" is to use a copper punch to loosen the lock ring, because it won't spark. Though on every one I've done, I've used a screwdriver....call me lucky I guess. ;)

Thanks for the tip!

[86lance]

it just looks like the wires popped off the damn plate,the pump works or so i think,how could i check the pump if its good

[86lance]

anyone know how i could check the pump?

[BadAssPerformance]

You can stick it in a bucket of water and put 12v to it and see if it shoots the water out. Caution - it should shoot pretty far.

[86lance]

lol alright ill try that tomorrow then! If it passes that test would it be safe to say that its fine and my problem lies in the wiring from the pump to my power module? Because ive had some of that apart already,and it seems to be good as far as i can see. whats the best way to check for continuity of the power wire and ground wire for my fuel pump? Also when doing tests like checking for power at my fuel pump do i need a power module connected or what/ Because i really dont want to fry out a good power module if i have a nother short. Cuz damn it really popped that 20 amp fuse fast!

[86lance]

say that the power wire ends up being my problem,the one for the fuel pump that is,would it be easier to rob the already connected power wire of its pin from the power module connector and just run a new wire of the same gauge to simplify finding a short in the system or am i barking up the wrong tree.?

[BadAssPerformance]

You said that the wires inside the pump were not connected to the back of the connector, right?

Were they close as in maybe acting like a short? Or maybe the fuel pump socket or wiring harness connector is corroded and has an internal short?

To test 12V at the pump wires, you can measure bothe the wires with a volt meter while having a friend cycle the ignition key on and it will energise the wires trying to prime the pump for a couple seconds, and let you do that twice (stops if it does not get a signal that its runnning as to not flood the motor).... or it may stay energized if the pump is not connected, or if you ant to trick it, you shoule be able to unplug the injector harness and then when you cycle the key it should stay energized.

to test continuity, w/o the PM you'll have to add 12V to the wires independantly...

[86lance]

or i could run a real long jumper wire from one end of the meter around to the wire at the power module?

[cordes]

or i could run a real long jumper wire from one end of the meter around to the wire at the power module?

That should work too.

[86lance]

ok didnt get to try the jumper wire thing just yet but...without my power module connected i checked for voltage at the fuel pump connector and got none,had my buddy make like he wus starting the car and got nothing. Im assuming that is because i have no powermodule to send it the signal and whatnot. I Checked power at my coil with someone cranking the car and it goes down to 7,im assuming that is somewhat normal to have voltage being sucked out and whatnot. And the night the car died i hooked up the fuel injector body to fuel rail ground. One of the power module socket pins was popping a 20 amp fuse,apparently its the one for that ground,the one from the firewall to the fuel rail. The night it died i disconnected it to see if it changed anything and it didnt so tonight i reconnected it and it stopped popping the fuse. Thats one problem solved. Two more to go though. The other two pins that are giving me problems pop a 20 amp fuse when connected from the suspect pins to the negative at the battery are the number 2 pin and number 4 pin on the 10 way power module connector. the number 2 pin says it is the 12v power feed from ignition switch "run" and "start" This one pops a fuse along with the number 4 power module pin which controls the direct battery feed. What do i do next?

[86lance]

wow sorry for the uber long post!!

[86lance]

bumpity

[86lance]

bumpity

[BadAssPerformance]

PM pins... wow, not sure about those. Will it pop fuses with the PM connected like it's supposed to be? if not, will the fuel pump see 12V when it is conencted?

[86lance]

i didnt try for 12v at the fuel pump connector with the pump connected. Being that the fuel pump connector broke or whatever i cut the fuel pump wires and the harness's connector and put in spade terminals for the time being for testings sake. I havnt tried anything with a power module connected,i rly dont need to fry the good one ya know.

[86lance]

ok pins 2 and 4 are only popping fuses on the 10 way power module connector.

I tried a new fuse with the fuel pump unhooked. blows a fuse. Tried it with the coil disconnected....blows a fuse...tried it with the fuel injector harness disconnected pops a fuse still. any other ideas guys?