??!! Burned Out 2 SMEC's In 10 Miles !!??

[2.216VTurbo]

RedBox is an 85 GLH-T running 89 TII wiring from a Lebaron GTC, it's recently assembled and has about 2K miles on it's current set up. It made it from SDAC 26 in Memphis to Flagstaff AZ thanks to Rhymes-with-Tortoise X2 where it burned out the SMEC 'driver' board. It does have a socketed 'brain' board and custom cal but that board seems to be surviving just fine. I replaced the driver board with a spare after dragging RedBox home from PHX area on a car dolly, threw the replacement driver board in it and after just a few miles it bucked a couple times then lost all power. No spark, no fuel and curiously the ASD relay is clicking like mad. This is the exact same thing it did in flagstaff a few days and about 10 actual driving miles ago. Even bypassing the ASD does nothing, still wont run.

So before I throw ANOTHER driver board at the problem(there is nothing visually wrong with either board), Id like to figure out the cause-usually the hardest part:confused: I'm thinking a crossed or chaffed wire? The harness has been gone thru for this build, wires checked visually and entire harness retaped.

Any ideas on the cause or places to look? So far Iv'e just checked the injector harness behind the valve cover but don't see any issues there. I suppose I should be checking for continuity or Ohming everything out but I'm not very good with electrical :(

This is a shot of the 'test' just plugging the small 12 pin harness to another SMEC before disassembly and reassembly into the in car SMEC. It fires right up like this and I suspect when I do this type of test again today it will too. I'm going to Cars and Coffee right now (WHERE REDBOX WAS SUPPOSED TO DEBUT TODAY:mad:) then a funeral for a coworker so I wont be able to test anything for several hours. Hopefully I'll have some good suggestions by then:thumb:

[chromguy]

Hi Alan, This give me butterflies...
rather than fry another driver board, I would suggest to test a non functional one to help determine the root cause of the failure. I am not an expert but I want to help.
I just reviewed my 88 powertrain diagonostic book, 88 wiring diagram and also the 87 Power module electronic schematics. What I can see, the driver provides clean +8 V in addition to driving the ASD,coil, alternator and injector.
Checks on 14 way
Pin 1 is +8V output
pin 2,6,7 are grounds
pin 3 fused J2 output
pin 4 12V from ignition
pin 9,10 injector control
pin 12 coil control
pin 14 alternator control

So lets first check if the ASD is active and 12V is present on the +coil terminal. Check to see if the -coil terminal is pulsing during cranking. Also check pin 9 and/or 10 for pulsing during cranking as well.

[mopar-tech]

I'd double check the grounds, make sure the coil isn't pulling to many amps and check the impedance of the injectors.

[2.216VTurbo]

Just getting home now, great tips on the to-do list for tomorrow, Wait, how do I use my DVM again?? Hate electrical:(

[chromguy]

Keep us in the loop and good luck

[marc]

I agree with Gary on checking the grounds. But also where its grounded is important too. Have you ever notice all of the engine management grounds are in one central spot on the engine? Centrally located grounds prevents high current feedback though wiring, modules, possibly burning out components. If a ground is lost elsewhere in the vehicle, the ground current could find another path through two grounds of the engine management system. I mention this because you updated to a SMEC. Also avoid adding any additional electrical items and taping into the engine management wiring. And lastly check your engine to body ground by doing a voltage drop test. A ohmmeter won't tell you much. There are many videos on YouTube that shows how to do a voltage drop test.

[2.216VTurbo]

I was just thinking that a wideband was added just before the package was completed, I'll check the firewall penetration for chafing there too. I'm working with just one arm tho, I blew out a C6/C7 cervical disc acting like a dipsh!t half my age. Those powered by JetSki water jet lifting rides are super fun-until it pyle-drives you into the ocean with astounding force:wow1:. it was only like a 15' fall but I landed very wrong. Looks like I'm getting some of my own spine hardware in my neck sometime in the next 7 days. Ironic no?

[bigbarneycars]

Let me know how that turns out youngster, G.L with it. Maybe you can sell some of your hardware to an ole' guy

[mopar-tech]

I was just thinking that a wideband was added just before the package was completed,

Is the wide band feeding a narrow band voltage to the ECU? I'd look at that close.

[A.J.]

So you're actually blowing out the power module portion of the SMEC (Single Module Engine Controller. Combines the previous Logic Module and Power Module into one case). If you open that case you can replace just the Power Module. I've had to replace just the Power Module portion for a customer because only it (PM) was bad and I had an extra one lying around.

Lots of great tips from everybody so far. I just had an 86 Omni converted to T-II with a bad Power module. Since I didn't want to have happen to me what happened to you (plug in a new one and blow it) because the car sat for 10 years and I didn't know the history behind it, I had to go through and pin out and check the harness and what plugs into it to make sure it was good. Sucked. Like Gary said, if you have an item like a coil or injector that's bad causing a larger draw it can stress the board. And again, bad grounds can do the same thing. So basically you have two wires chaffed together or a bad injector or coil drawing to many amps.

[Vigo]

After i recently had a coil driver go out on an SBEC and had to buy one from Gary (thanks) i put a small inline fuse holder in the harness just outside the SBEC connector to try to make sure i wouldn't have to buy any more. This doesn't help you until you identify what part of the board is failing, though.

[marc]

Looks like I'm getting some of my own spine hardware in my neck sometime in the next 7 days.
I wish you a speedy recovery!

[Aries_Turbo]

I'm working with just one arm tho, I blew out a C6/C7 cervical disc acting like a dipsh!t half my age. Those powered by JetSki water jet lifting rides are super fun-until it pyle-drives you into the ocean with astounding force:wow1:. it was only like a 15' fall but I landed very wrong. Looks like I'm getting some of my own spine hardware in my neck sometime in the next 7 days. Ironic no?

sorry dude though i cant say im surprised. :)

i could use some of your spine hardware.... L5/L4 goofiness and something up new near the shoulder blades. oh well

good luck dude

[2.216VTurbo]

So nothing obvious, no grossly visible chafing on O2 sensor or WB wires. No, I didn't get pin by pin serious with a meter yet. I've heard from patients year after year about their arm/neck pain when it's a spine injury. It's interesting because it's such a complex pain. In my shoulder its a red hot ice pick being stabbed in repeatedly and in my arm and forearm its and ice cold vice that is squeezing the life out of my muscles. Oh, and I can't feel my index finger and thumb:(

Brian the shoulder blade thing is called subscapular pain, classic spinal stenosis/herniated disc symptom.

The bulge between C6-C7 is the culprit, that's the crabmeat like disc material that has extruded out thru the torn casing (the Annulus) that ordinarily contains it.

[going4speed]

is that a fracture on c6?:confused:

[2.216VTurbo]

No Fx, just old man spine with degenerative changes:(

So If I am gonna just add a chassis ground to the SMEC, which pin/color wire should should I tap into?

There is a lotta red paint under the main negative cable ground under the batt tray so I'm gonna make it clean and shiny like Gus always said to:D

[2.216VTurbo]

OK, clean and shiny grounds X4, every chassis ground I could find I scraped red paint off of and made it nice, even added an additional chassis ground from the negative side of batt. Replaced the 'power module/driver' in the SMEC case and it doesn't fire:mad:

Any Ideas why the ASD just clicks like mad?? I swapped a known good one in from the rampage RT (which actually had to be modded to fit? Little tang on the 89 harness the RT harness doesn't have:confused:) and it just click click clicks as soon as the key is powered up to run position.

Gary, how do I check for that feedback voltage you mentioned, which pin *shouldn't* have that feedback?

[cordes]

The only idea I had was injector impedance too. I sure hope you recover quickly from your neck problem. I hope you really upswell this one.

[A.J.]

Any Ideas why the ASD just clicks like mad??

When I first started socketing boards, the first one I did caused the ASD relay to click on and off like crazy and the tach needle to jump all over the place. The Logic Module board ended up being bad. I don't know what caused it, my technique in removing the chip, static electricity, who knows. There's been other times I'd burn a chip and the data getting corrupt and causing the same issue. If the ASD relay is clicking I'd say you have a bad Logic Module this time or a bad chip.

[mock_glh]

That clicking happens when the fuel rail ground isn't connected, not sure about any other reason. That thing grounds 6 pins on the SMEC. As for the injectors, our systems run low impedance. Hi impedance injectors are easier on the drivers and will run just fine.

[mopar-tech]

Gary, how do I check for that feedback voltage you mentioned, which pin *shouldn't* have that feedback?

I know some wideband setups will provide a "narrow band" output for stock computers, what if it is kicking out more than 0-1 volts? Watch the O2 sensor input going into the module.

Doubt it is the issue but better to double check.

[going4speed]

Had a smec do this that was running for months then just up and quit while driving. Shut it down to pull over and any time you would turn on the car it would to the asd and tach needle mess. Replacement smec has been running fine since. No other changes to the car. Well except a new battery just after that event.


When I first started socketing boards, the first one I did caused the ASD relay to click on and off like crazy and the tach needle to jump all over the place. The Logic Module board ended up being bad. I don't know what caused it, my technique in removing the chip, static electricity, who knows. There's been other times I'd burn a chip and the data getting corrupt and causing the same issue. If the ASD relay is clicking I'd say you have a bad Logic Module this time or a bad chip.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Bad chip or chip connection might do it. Try removing and reinstalling the chip.

[2.216VTurbo]

I guess I'm pulling the battery, and the SMEC-again:o May as well add another ground strap to the fuel rail as well.

[Aries_Turbo]

Brian the shoulder blade thing is called subscapular pain, classic spinal stenosis/herniated disc symptom.



The lower back is a herniated disc. I've seen my mri from 2013. That's manageable with proper low back support and posture.

This new one is weird. It's manageable too but if i hold something out in front of me with my left hand I can feel the muscles right next to my spine on the left side fall asleep.

If I lean forward slightly as if to wash dishes or something, both sides begin to hurt and the muscles knot up. Somethings getting pinched

Brian

[marc]

No Fx, just old man spine with degenerative changes:(

So If I am gonna just add a chassis ground to the SMEC, which pin/color wire should should I tap into?

There is a lotta red paint under the main negative cable ground under the batt tray so I'm gonna make it clean and shiny like Gus always said to:D

Adding a second chassis ground for the SMEC is a bad idea for reasons I said in my first post. The ASD relay clicking does sound like a bad ground. Try back probing your grounds with a test light to trouble shoot.

[cudagirl77]

Stupid question but are you getting any codes out of the SMEC???


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[A.J.]

As for the injectors, our systems run low impedance. Hi impedance injectors are easier on the drivers and will run just fine.

How is running more resistance on a circuit easier on the drivers? I've never heard this before.

[Vigo]

Because it lowers current given the same voltage according to ohms law. So less heat.

[2.216VTurbo]

Adding a second chassis ground for the SMEC is a bad idea for reasons I said in my first post. The ASD relay clicking does sound like a bad ground. Try back probing your grounds with a test light to trouble shoot.

OK, I went back and reread all posts, I missed that part of your first Marc(Vicodin helps the pain but not great for clear thoughts:() I should be able to dig in with and confirm the grounds and other tips here in the next hour or so. Pathetic part is if I get it running tonight, I can't even drive it with the meds and inabililty to work the 568:(

Thanks to everyone that chimed in:grouphug:

[2.216VTurbo]

Turns out powder coated fuel rails look awesome! But don't act as much of a good ground. Removed the ground, scraped a little of the pretty black coating, reinstalled the bolt, fired right up. To bad it's too late to rescue that other power module board from the outgoing trash. Oh well. Curious how RedBox made it 1900 miles before said ground didn't conduct negative electrons...

[chromguy]

Turns out powder coated fuel rails look awesome! But don't act as much of a good ground. Removed the ground, scraped a little of the pretty black coating, reinstalled the bolt, fired right up. To bad it's too late to rescue that other power module board from the outgoing trash. Oh well. Curious how RedBox made it 1900 miles before said ground didn't conduct negative electrons...
Great news! Could you do me a favour now that it is working and check one of your old "bad" driver boards? A bad ground on a fuel rail will not "fry" a board, in fact, a transistor acts as a switch and turns the grounds on and off to the injectors to pulse fuel. I agree that grounds are tres important but the lack of a ground on your fuel rail did not fry your board. I would guess current overload and/or lack of cooling to the board kill them, if they are dead. I assume you have no active air flow through the SMEC casing

[wheming]

Does no one ever use those grounding star washers that bite into the metal when they ae connecting grounds wires? They are in those drawers at hardware stores. They bite down to metal through paint.

[Vigo]

I had a breakdown about 6 months ago due to that ground on my Spirit. I figured it out AFTER towing it home and felt a little dumb, but the fact that i had to figure it out just proves it was a needed refresher. :p

[going4speed]

I replace the screws with a JL audio ground stud (http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-connection-systems-power-connections-master-ground-lug)and then bolt the ground to that. very secure is an understatement.


Does no one ever use those grounding star washers that bite into the metal when they ae connecting grounds wires? They are in those drawers at hardware stores. They bite down to metal through paint.

[chromguy]

I replace the screws with a JL audio ground stud (http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-connection-systems-power-connections-master-ground-lug)and then bolt the ground to that. very secure is an understatement.

Looks very serious!

[2.216VTurbo]

FARK! I give up:mad: Spritz, sprayed, detailed, armor all'd tires all with just one arm working and then figured I deserved a lil test drive for my efforts. 5-6 miles into my 'test loop' around the hood, running well then dead again, no spark, no fuel, ASD clicking like mad:( Ugh:faint:

[2.216VTurbo]

R&R'd the battery, SMEC, and chip, checked grounds, added another from firewall to other side of fuel rail with no effect. No spark/fuel and clicky clicky from ASD. Anyone have a match:banghead:?

[chromguy]

R&R'd the battery, SMEC, and chip, checked grounds, added another from firewall to other side of fuel rail with no effect. No spark/fuel and clicky clicky from ASD. Anyone have a match:banghead:?
So Sorry to hear. did you have a moment to test voltages at the Pins I list above when cranking?and when the ignition is on? That will help to find the root cause

[2.216VTurbo]

So Sorry to hear. did you have a moment to test voltages at the Pins I list above when cranking?and when the ignition is on? That will help to find the root cause

I didn't because I *thought* it was solved, I will tho because I'm back to square one-ish, Thanks for the suggestions. So the harness needs to be connected and during cranking to get those values you listed, and I'm checking the back side of the connector(harness side?) then? I can pull a motor but electrical is my Achilles:(

[cudagirl77]

R&R'd the battery, SMEC, and chip, checked grounds, added another from firewall to other side of fuel rail with no effect. No spark/fuel and clicky clicky from ASD. Anyone have a match:banghead:?

Codes???


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[chromguy]

I didn't because I *thought* it was solved, I will tho because I'm back to square one-ish, Thanks for the suggestions. So the harness needs to be connected and during cranking to get those values you listed, and I'm checking the back side of the connector(harness side?) then? I can pull a motor but electrical is my Achilles:(

Hate to say but I am not surprised we are back. Lets turn the page and solve your issue. Several have mentioned to check codes, this is a great idea to check first. After that we can back probe the connections pin to determine voltages. A statement from the DVM bible "Thou should be measuring voltages" . This is the best way to troubleshoot as measuring current and resistance can be misleading. For most simple systems using a water flow analogy will get you 95% of the way there. Voltage =pressure and current=flow.
I believe I have seen an ecopy of the 88 powertrain troubleshooting manual that will take you step by step. If you can't find it I will see if I can find it again.

reference https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_analogy

[blk86trbo]

Best of luck Alan. I'm in the same boat as you...can pull drivetrains in my sleep, but am confused as hell with electrical gremlins. Crossing my fingers for ya bro

[lightbulb010]

I know it has already been asked but, are you getting code 42. Take this with a grain of salt. I got code 42 after trying to start MANY times with a bad ground connection. I tightened the connection. There is a wire that runs from the logic board directly to the power board to give it an ASD signal(as in the wire runs from the logic board directly to the power board AND the ASD relay coil). The pin is shorted on the logic board in my original SMEC(3.0l). I could only get the van to start by clipping this wire and connecting the power board side(the ASD relay was also connected here) to the DK blue ignition switch wire. Even though this doesn't seem at all(at least from my understanding of the original post) like the situation at hand, It can't hurt to check this wire. I'm pretty sure the wire was blue with a white tracer. Testing the function of the ASD will not help you if this signal is not present. This wire " enables" both the ASD relay AND the power board.

[2.216VTurbo]

I should have addressed the code question when it was first asked, my bad:( Both Cordes and I tried to pull codes at SDAC and during the trip home and were unsuccessful in getting them to run. We were thinking it's possible the custom cal wasn't set up for them or? So we tried several times, no luck. However, I have NOT tried to run them in the last 24 hours(or since when the additional/revised grounds got it running briefly) so possibly they are working now, I won't be home for a few more hours tho, more tests, more xrays, more labs (about 4 different doctors today alone) for my impending spinal fusion surgery that's only a few days away now.

[jonnyb]

No DRB to troubleshoot Jonesy? Hook that up and forget about the key dance - it could be a miswire in the smec conversion or could be the cal, but without a scan tool it's a guessing game.

I'll ship you my old OTC if you want it. Makes running thru the 88 diagnostic tests a breeze! I can send you the 88 diagnostic manual as well.

Jon

[2.216VTurbo]

No DRB to troubleshoot Jonesy? Hook that up and forget about the key dance - it could be a miswire in the smec conversion or could be the cal, but without a scan tool it's a guessing game.

I'll ship you my old OTC if you want it. Makes running thru the 88 diagnostic tests a breeze! I can send you the 88 diagnostic manual as well.

Jon


I have an OTC 4000, which end do I plug in again:o?

[2.216VTurbo]

OK, so I've swapped SMEC's, checked fusible links, cleaned all the pins on the 60 pin and the 12 pin connectors, looked for shorted wires(possibly *inside* the harness somewhere?) cleaned all the chassis grounds, checked for voltage tests at J1/ J2 injector circuits, added a couple grounds because it seems like a good idea... Still no codes come up and when I try to run them with the key cycle or the DRB. As soon as the ASD starts it's wild clicking(key power on) it blanks and flashes the screen on the DRB:( Something is not happy. Fuel pump will run if I bypass ASD with 12V onto + coil and I have swapped out the ASD Relay. Still no spark or fuel(unless ASD is bypassed then I get fuel)

Such a nice car begging to be driven and debuted at Cars and Coffee yet this is the third Saturday that it wont cooperate:( Wish I was better at electical:confused:

[jonnyb]

Bad pin on the socketed smec? I've seen something similar on a socketed smec that didn't have anything covering the chip and the pins got corroded and didn't make good contact with the socket. I've also seen something like that from a bad soldering job on the socket (tach bounced and there was a clicking noise when you keyed it on, but nothing else in the ignition system worked).

[RattFink]

Alright, I want to try and help out with this. I was following progress on this project and want to see it running! Electrical can be tricky. First off, what tools are you using? Your gonna want a good brand Digital Meter and a test light. I also like to use a headlight bulb or something that pulls a good amount of current to check my grounds. I'll hook one side of the bulb to power, then the other side to the ground I am checking. If the ground is good, the headlight will light up nice and bright. Another thing to keep in mind, resistance will not show up in a circuit until current is flowing. In other words, you could pull the ASD relay and read 12v on the fusible link terminal, but once the circuit gets turned on and current flows, the fusible link could be dropping voltage. Voltage drop tests are the only way to go in my opinion. You said it was an 89 T2 Lebaron harness? I've got that wire diagram pulled up right now. I'm going to study it a bit then post on how I would test it.

[Reaper1]

AJ, this sounds EXACTLY like what happened to my turbo van I had. I wish I could tell you I figured it out. I had swapped computers, whole wiring harnesses, jumped grounds...all kinds of stuff!

I know...SOOO helpful, but I figured I'd let you know that I have experienced the EXACT same problem. No codes. Wouldn't pull codes on a scanner.

I did find that the ground to the fuel rail was faulty (it would ohm out OK, but was really hanging on by a tiny piece of metal, which finally snapped when I went to remove the harness from the engine). I know you've already been there, done that.

It is an L-body...replace the horn! ;)

[mopar-tech]

As soon as the ASD starts it's wild clicking(key power on) it blanks and flashes the screen on the DRB:(

A good clue! Check the power and ground that feed the scanner plug and see if voltage goes away/drops during the event.

My money is on the ground circuit, you are getting a floating ground issue which will cause all sorts of havoc.

[RattFink]

After reading the symptoms and studying the wire diagram, it sounds to me like the SMEC is having an issue staying powered up. I would check all power and grounds at the module via a voltage drop test. Get something to back-probe the wiring at the module. Cheap hat pins from the arts and crafts section of Wal-Mart work good. Back probe pin 41, J1 Red Fuse Link, at the module while leaving the module plugged in. Set meter to read DC Volts. Place red lead of meter onto the back-probe, place black lead of the meter on the battery POSITIVE terminal. Turn the key on and let the ASD do it's dance. You should get a reading very close to zero on your meter. Max .2 volts. This test shows how much voltage that fusible link is using. You don't want it using any. Any voltage your wiring is using means your module has that much less to use. If your wiring is using 2-3 volts, your module is only getting 9-10, it won't power up or may trip out. Repeat this test all power wires going to module. You can test grounds like this too, just back-probe the ground, positive lead of meter on back-probe and negative lead of meter on NEGATIVE battery terminal. Keep in mind, the key needs to be on and the circuit needs to be in use. Hope that helps you out.

[2.216VTurbo]

OK, sweet, I'll check the SMEC pin 41 and those other suggestions too when I get home :-) Thanks!

[chromguy]

OK, sweet, I'll check the SMEC pin 41 and those other suggestions too when I get home :-) Thanks!

Hello AJ, any update???

[2.216VTurbo]

Hello AJ, any update???

My Brother is coming over tomorrow to go thru the harness wire by wire with me, gonna get like an 8 O'clock start to try and beat the heat. Now if I just had a wiring diagram for an 89 TII Lebaron where the harness came from...

[RattFink]

I can get you a diagram off Mitchell Pro-Demand...

[2.216VTurbo]

I can get you a diagram off Mitchell Pro-Demand...


Sweet, somewhere I have a box of FSM's that's proving elusive. Could be in any one of three different locations:(

[RattFink]

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad118/Mattikus17/89%20T2%202.gif
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad118/Mattikus17/89%20T2.gif

[2.216VTurbo]

Thanks Fink, we've got the harness loose at the connector and the SMEC ends and chasing them down. This harness was 'converted' to TII years ago so there are obvious signs of modification to it, Found a couple wires a little crusty with corrosion so far. I hate electrical:(

[2.216VTurbo]

WOOT! RedBox lives again!:nod: Pin #5 on the 60 way connector says 'signal ground' it wasn't grounding so we added the SIXTH chassis ground I've installed since this issue started and tapped it into the #5 pin black/white stripe wire and it fired right up:bounce2:

#5 blk/wht intersects with the blk/wht wire that goes to the diagnostic port, we just took a length of wire, added a lug ring (to chassis ground) and a male spade and stuck that in the diagnostic port. I know this is kinda temporary but for the real fix should I just tap the chassis ground into the blk/wht #5 a few inches back from the 60 pin connector or??

[going4speed]

I'd have to trace the wire and fine the issue in the harness

[Force Fed Mopar]

WOOT! RedBox lives again!:nod: Pin #5 on the 60 way connector says 'signal ground' it wasn't grounding so we added the SIXTH chassis ground I've installed since this issue started and tapped it into the #5 pin black/white stripe wire and it fired right up:bounce2:

#5 blk/wht intersects with the blk/wht wire that goes to the diagnostic port, we just took a length of wire, added a lug ring (to chassis ground) and a male spade and stuck that in the diagnostic port. I know this is kinda temporary but for the real fix should I just tap the chassis ground into the blk/wht #5 a few inches back from the 60 pin connector or??

Good, now you can tear it apart and fix this :lol:

59135

[2.216VTurbo]

^Yeah, but I *KNOW* how to do that stuff:eyebrows: the electrical is greek to me:p I have a very nice big valve swirl head I'm just gonna swap on. It will be a 1 day R&R if there are no surprises:nod:

Put about 15 miles on RedBox today, smokey:yuck:!

[RattFink]

Glad you got it figured out! Electrical can be intimidating, but gets easier and easier with practice. Enjoy the car a bit!

[wheming]

What happened to that valve guide?

And, glad to hear you narrowed in on the problem.
Can you see everywhere that blk/wht wire goes to?

[marc]

It's glad to hear it's been resolved.

[Force Fed Mopar]

What happened to that valve guide?

And, glad to hear you narrowed in on the problem.
Can you see everywhere that blk/wht wire goes to?

It dropped :nod: lol, I would guess that the press fit in the head wasn't right.

[135sohc]

I'd have to trace the wire and fine the issue in the harness

:nod:

That circuit is very universally applied across 2.2/2.5 and comparing a couple different manuals they all show it going to the diagnostic plug, splicing off and through a connector and to another splice before ending at the negative battery terminal. Sounds like somewhere in that chain it is broken. The ultrasonically welded splices if not sealed with glue lined heat shrink turn into solid green chunks of crap even under wrapped on tape. One of many reasons why 418 is getting a fresh, zero time new harness under the hood.

[mopar-tech]

That circuit is very universally applied across 2.2/2.5 and comparing a couple different manuals they all show it going to the diagnostic plug, splicing off and through a connector and to another splice before ending at the negative battery terminal.

I think some guy mention the scanner going nuts was a good clue a page or two back..

[2.216VTurbo]

I think some guy mention the scanner going nuts was a good clue a page or two back..

Yeah all hindsight is 20/20 right:p

[ajakeski]

I'm still waiting to see the intercooler and plumbing...

[chromguy]

So it appears that none of the SMEC are burnt out! Good stuff...