Boost gauge and Vac. lines

[QC DSM ESiT]

Okay well I wasn't sure which vacume line to Tee the boost gauge line into so I hooked it into the stock BOV line that would run up into the factory air box. I have everything mouted and went out and drove it around and it is getting like 16Hg Vacume and seems pretty responsive but when I floor it seems to only get to like 2 PSI. So do I have a bad vacume line source or is something screwed up with the turbo or something like that? It doesn't sound like it's leaking at all. Hope you guys can help and thanks in advance.

[QC DSM ESiT]

Well I'm slowly answering my own questions. I moved the boost gauge to the nipple on the right (if you were standing in front of the van and looking at the motor) on the throttle body and it's still getting like 1-2 PSI when I floor it. So my vac. source must be good. Then I pulled off the intake and checked to see if the turbo had shaft play or anything like that but it doesn't and seems to spin just fine. I checked the wastegate actuator and attempted to inspect the vac lines and all seem good. So I then took off the vac. line to the actuator and pluged it to see if the boost would go up if it had no vac. source but it was still 1-2 PSI when I floor it. So the only thing I can think of is that wastegate flapper is stuck open for some reason. If anyone else has any idea please reply because this is bugging the heck out of me. I thought my van was slow because it was a van but now I know why it's slow and I want to at least bring it back to normal. Any help is appreciated.

[Dave]

Well you should tee right off the intake. Tee as close as you can to the barb coming off the middle of the intake manifold.

As far as the WG staying open, check to see if the arm popped off the WG. That seems to happen frequently on mitsus.

[QC DSM ESiT]

Well you should tee right off the intake. Tee as close as you can to the barb coming off the middle of the intake manifold.

As far as the WG staying open, check to see if the arm popped off the WG. That seems to happen frequently on mitsus.

How the heck do you check back there. I could barely even get to the vac. line let alone the actuator arm and if it did pop off how the heck would I put it back on. :confused: Seems almost I would have to pull the intake manifold or maybe even the head just to service the turbo . :(

[Dave]

How the heck do you check back there. I could barely even get to the vac. line let alone the actuator arm and if it did pop off how the heck would I put it back on. :confused: Seems almost I would have to pull the intake manifold or maybe even the head just to service the turbo . :(

It's real easy actually. When the motor is cool, stick your arm behind the intake. Now you'll have to familar yourself of what the heck is back there if you don't already know. But stick your hand down there and feel the WG arm. If you can move the arm front to back or up and down, the E-clip popped off and the arm popped as well.

If it popped just stick an air hose to the WG can, set the pressure to about 25psi. I take the spray nozzle and secure a vaccum line to it and zip tie the handle down. Once that's done the arm will be pushed out. Now it's simple as hell to just take the arm and pop it back on the WG, then secure it with a E-clip or a C-clip. I've had no problems using a C-clip but you are supposed to use an E-clip.

If you need a pic of what exactly you're looking for, let me know and I'll get you one.

[QC DSM ESiT]

Thanks Spirit4sFed, you were absolutly correct. The arm popped off and it was a pretty simple task. It sucked trying to put the arm back on and it sucked even more trying to get that darn E clip on just going by feel and 2 fingers trying to guide it and push it on but it was an overall simple task it just requires some patience and dealing with a back breaking position.

The funny thing is, is that I bought this Van with that arm popped off of it so I just thought it was really slow because it was a Van with a small Mitsu. turbo but I didn't realise untill I put the boost guage in there that I wasn't boosting bearly anything. So when I fixed this problem and get it some gas I was incredibly suprised. This Van IMO is pretty quick considering it's a Van. It feels like it might be having some problems at the top end though so I'm sure I will be asking more and more questions. Thanks again Spirit4sFed. :thumb:

[MiniMopar]

Any Mitsu-equipped car has some trouble with the top end. The exhaust housing is like a big cork.

[BARRON]

HAHA! Good answer MiniMopar!

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/420000-420999/420349_55_full.jpg

I have the garrett on my mini now. The turbine side is MUCH bigger! IMO The 2.5L's should ALL have come with the 48 trim garret. Not something that belongs on a Jetta TDI!!

[QC DSM ESiT]

Actually it seems around 5000RPM that it is eather hitting too much boost and the computer is cutting it off or something else is screwing up but I've only noticed it since the turbo has started working again but it is something that definitly needs to be fixed.

[glhs727]

Did you reset your computer after you fixed the wastegate arm? If, not reset it nd then take it out for a spin. Also check and make sure you put the vacuum line back on the wastegate actuator. Then see where your boost is.
later,
Cindy

[Dave]

Did you reset your computer after you fixed the wastegate arm? If, not reset it nd then take it out for a spin. Also check and make sure you put the vacuum line back on the wastegate actuator. Then see where your boost is.
later,
Cindy

+1.

How many pounds are you at, at 5,000?

[BARRON]

You should be running between 7-8 psi.. MAYBE 9psi.

[QC DSM ESiT]

I was seeing it hit like 11PSI but my boost gauge was kinda messed up. Just stuck in a new one yesterday. About to go reset the computer right now and find a little better vac. source. I'll keep you guys informed.

[QC DSM ESiT]

Reset the ECU and now it will boost like 5PSI then go up a little more around 4000RPM. The main thing I noticed is that it will go all the way to shift point (around 5600RPM) with no problems what so ever. Thanks again guys everything seems to be running good now. :thumb:

[BARRON]

the boost ramps up to 7psi after 4000rpm or so.

[QC DSM ESiT]

actually it was going to about 10-11PSI max like right before it shifted. Since then though I've stopped the computer from controling the boost and put a boost controller on there. I have it running 12PSI right now with no problems and man is this van fun now.