Finally Starting on #53

[bfarroo]

Loaded up the Consulier today to move it from my pole building to my home garage to start working on it. The plan right now is to start getting the mechanicals sorted. I'll probably start a build thread once I get into it. I have the new shift cables to install along with a new clutch slave cylinder. I need to get rear brakes installed and the radiator cleaned up and installed and the list goes on and on.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/20160205_257.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/20160205_258.JPG

[polopharm]

What parts are you still missing?

[bfarroo]

I still need the front brake booster/battery cover, lower engine cover that bolts to the cradle underneath, headlight mounts, gas tank, overflow bottle, correct spoiler, radiator fans, all the gauges, a steering wheel other than the dodge one that is currently in the car, and I'm sure some small bits and pieces. Most of this stuff I will be able to build myself or buy, I have gas tank dimension from johnny and just bought a tig welder so I'm going to start practicing with that and will eventually make my own gas tank and overflow bottle. The fiberglass parts are pretty flat and should be easy to make. I have a spoiler that is not the correct one for this body style but it will give me a starting point.

[bfarroo]

Looking for a picture of how the slave cylinder attaches to the transmission. I have a replacement cylinder but it just has a rod out of the end and nothing to attach it to the shaft/rod on the transmission.

[DaveSkrab]

Excited to see this! I will have my garage come spring time. Then it's game on for me too!

[bfarroo]

I'm going to have a bunch of wiring questions after looking things over briefly. I've found quite a few wires just hanging out. I'll get some pictures when I have time.

[MPI_duster]

Shot you some pics of the slave cylinder to your email.

[bfarroo]

Thanks, next question is how does the radiator mount in? The radiator I have has a long channel that goes across the top with two straps that go down on both sides that had something attached to the bottom at one time but has since rotted off. I cut the bolts off and knocked them out so I have the radiator free from the mount but I have no idea what this would have attached to.

[bfarroo]

Here's the mount I took off the radiator.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image1.jpeg
it is used off one of the crash test cars I believe and sat outside for quite a few years so the steel mount was rusted away. The radiator seems to be in decent shape. I'm guessing there is some sort of mount that bolts into the car and then this sandwiches the radiator in between.

[polopharm]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/02/06/a1536091588f946a0fd3d71a801ff2c8.jpg

On the red car Mine just had brackets on the bottom the bolted into the holes shown in the picture.

my car had an overflow tank inside the rear 1/4 panel on drivers side. As well as the one at the rear bulkhead.

I think all the gauges are still available from vdo. I saw a dash panel that goes around the gauges for a series 1 last time I was at Rossion.

The overflow tanks are off the shelf stuff from Jegs.

the fuel tanks were made locally, I assume someone has tried to contact them ? According to George from Mosler even when new a lot had leaks and needed sealing.

[bfarroo]

I'm guessing the radiator has some sort of a metal surround on it currently? mine is just a bare radiator right now, two end tanks and fins top and bottom. I have the piece pictured above but i'm guessing that the bottom half would have the brackets I need to build. I have a dash here for the car, just no gauges yet, I know johnny posted the part numbers for most of the gauges so those will be easy once I figure out what wires go to what, also the plastic overflow tank is present in the passengers rear quarter but I don't have the system high point tank with the pressure cap that goes up on the bulk head but do have johnny's old one to use as a template when I make a new one. Yes the gas tank company is long out of business. Also do the nipples on the radiator point up or down? I originally thought down but it has a pet---- opposite the nipple which makes me think it should be up?

Here's a pic of the radiator minus the bracket/surround
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image2.jpeg

[polopharm]

The radiator in the red car had tabs welded to the radiator. More significantly the pet ---- pointed down and the bleeder was on the inlet side which makes no sense. We drilled and tapped the outflow side to bled radiator.
As to the upper overflow tank , George confirmed that there were multiple different shapes and sizes and all were purchased from Jegs.
When he restored his series 1 he just bought a new one. I did same on the red car.
The overflow on both of mine are on drivers side.

[polopharm]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/02/07/cfff8950674ae59dcf3fada1ddaa375a.jpg
This was replacement tank.

[bfarroo]

Ok I started looking at wiring and have some pictures to hopefully get some answers to where these wires and plugs go.

The first one is at the rear of the motor near where the oxygen sensor wires go in. they both look to be black wires and don't appear to be wires from the factory dodge harness.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image4.jpeg
Next is a grey/black wire near the computer, I should be able to trace this one out as it looks to be a factory dodge harness wire. I looks like it might attach to the brown wire in the pic after but I'm not sure.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image5.jpeg
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image6.jpeg

Next is by the oil pressure sender block
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image3.jpeg
were some of the stock sensor wires left off in favor of the aftermarket gauges? The stock low pressure switch is hooked up and then there is a blue wire attached to a sensor in the end of the block and then a yellow wire that I'm guessing would have hooked up to the missing sensor in then block. Also the sensor that goes into the front of the head has a non-stock wire attached to it. I didn't take a picture of that.

[bfarroo]

Then up front there are a few wires that look to be the same colors as the harness attached to the speed sensor adapter out back so I'm guessing these go to the VDO Speedometer.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image7.jpeg
Then there is a six wire plug that looks similar to a trailer plug style connector.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image8.jpeg
Next are wires that look to be the stock dodge heater controls plugs
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image10.jpeg
Not sure on this one, Maybe headlight module for a daytona?
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image11.jpeg

[bfarroo]

This looks like it would go through the bulkhead and ground to the motor and possibly be for the fuel pump?
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image9.jpeg

[Johnny]

This is when a finished car parked next to your's to compare sure would be nice!

[bfarroo]

Yeah definitely! I think I'll start making a list so that the next time I'm by a running car I can take some notes. I could always take a trip down by Hearld and look at his if I absolutely had to.

[GTP#44]

I have at least 12 of these .
One has your name on if you want it.
I know it is far off but any parts will help.
If anyone else wants one let me know.
I picked them up on a salvage trip to the old Mosler.
I like the hurricane symbol in the CONSULIER name.
I wanted to install one in #44 but for the amount of work it will take I am OK with the one there now.http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57273&stc=1

[bfarroo]

I have at least 12 of these .
One has your name on if you want it.
I know it is far off but any parts will help.
If anyone else wants one let me know.
I picked them up on a salvage trip to the old Mosler.
I like the hurricane symbol in the CONSULIER name.
I wanted to install one in #44 but for the amount of work it will take I am OK with the one there now.http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57273&stc=1

12 of what? I'm assuming a picture didn't attach right.

Spent a good portion of the day installing a 50 amp outlet in the garage for my new welder. I'll have to pick up some aluminum scrap to start practicing on before ordering up the material for the pressure tank and fuel cell. I may work on installing the shifter cables tomorrow. Does the long cable go all the way around the passengers side of the motor?

[GTP#44]

I tried it again.
I can see the picture on my desktop but not there on my i pad ...weird.

[player1up]

Ok I started looking at wiring and have some pictures to hopefully get some answers to where these wires and plugs go.

The first one is at the rear of the motor near where the oxygen sensor wires go in. they both look to be black wires and don't appear to be wires from the factory dodge harness.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image4.jpeg
Next is a grey/black wire near the computer, I should be able to trace this one out as it looks to be a factory dodge harness wire. I looks like it might attach to the brown wire in the pic after but I'm not sure.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image5.jpeg
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image6.jpeg

Next is by the oil pressure sender block
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image3.jpeg
were some of the stock sensor wires left off in favor of the aftermarket gauges? The stock low pressure switch is hooked up and then there is a blue wire attached to a sensor in the end of the block and then a yellow wire that I'm guessing would have hooked up to the missing sensor in then block. Also the sensor that goes into the front of the head has a non-stock wire attached to it. I didn't take a picture of that.

I'll have to go look at my car tonight or send Aaron a txt to have him look at his targa for those wire colors, but there are enough of us on here that we should be able to get you going. Did you get the service manual from Johnny's site?

As for the rest of the harness, yes there are quite a few factory wires that aren't connected and plugs that only have a couple of wires jumped in to get stuff to work.
Keep in mind that there are 2 sets of bulkhead connectors, one at the firewall and one under the dash...the wires that run between the 2 sets are automotive quality but look similar to what you'd find on a painless wiring kit and, as you'd imagine, the color changes when it crosses into a new connector.

[bfarroo]

I have the owners manual but the link for the service manual doesn't work. I'll have to send johnny a message to check it.

[player1up]

I'll email it over, it's an 8MB .pdf, it's just some of the stock chrysler stuff. I wish it had the actual wiring diagrams.
I still would like to get my hands on a "build book" if one ever existed.

oh, I do believe that some stock sensors are left off in favor of the senders for the vdo gauges. Basically like a new motor swap in an old car, the only stock sensors used are the ones needed to run the engine.

[bfarroo]

I tried it again.
I can see the picture on my desktop but not there on my i pad ...weird.

I actually got one with the car, I'll have to look it over and make sure it isn't damaged. If it is I know where to go!

[bfarroo]

I'll email it over, it's an 8MB .pdf, it's just some of the stock chrysler stuff. I wish it had the actual wiring diagrams.
I still would like to get my hands on a "build book" if one ever existed.

oh, I do believe that some stock sensors are left off in favor of the senders for the vdo gauges. Basically like a new motor swap in an old car, the only stock sensors used are the ones needed to run the engine.

That's what it's looking like.

[bfarroo]

So here's what I've found out so far. All of the aftermarket gauge sensors go to the 6 way trailer style connector under the dash and the speedometer is the 4 other wires. Here's what I believe is the color code for each of the sensors

Yellow - Oil Pressure
Blue - Oil Temp
Red - Trans Temp
Green - Tach
Brown - Water Temp
White - Fuel Sender

It looks like the Curt brand 6 way square connector or similar is what was used for this and also for the power mirror connector
5 male 1 female connector PN 58037
5 female 1 male connector PN 58035
12 inch loop with both connectors PN 58034

I'm going to order the 5 male connector and verify it fits, I can't imagine it wouldn't.

[bfarroo]

Trying to figure out the fitting for the clutch slave cylinder. The threads in the slave cylinder and hose look to be 3/8-24 which would fit 3/16 brake line hardware or -3AN fittings. The slave looks like it would either require a relatively long -3AN fitting to reach the taper at the bottom or more likely just a fitting that would seal flat against the top surface. The hose looks like it would definitely require an AN fitting but the hose doesn't have a swivel on it so I guess I could screw the fitting into the slave then attach the hose and tighten before mounting it in the car although that seems kind of hokey. I spent some time looking through earls fittings and haven't found exactly what I think I would need so I may have to combine a few fittings.

[bfarroo]

So here's what I'm thinking use the adapter with the sealing washer on the slave cylinder
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/AAF-ALL50029_ml.jpg
Then screwing this adapter with swivel onto the hose
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/ear-966303erl_w_ml.jpg

[player1up]

I'll see if I can grab a pic of mine today. I seem to remember them having a 90° somewhere in the original setup. That's quite a few pictures I owe you. I'm pretty sure I still have the old lines in a box somewhere.

[bfarroo]

No problem, I have a boat load of things to work on in the meantime. I have a 2 1/2 year old that takes up much of my time so this will be a slow moving project. Plus I will be starting a new job next week.

[polopharm]

My slave cylinder appeared cobbled together with multiple different AN fittings. Did not allow for enough movement to fully disengage clutch.
we moved slave cylinder, ran all the same size AN fittings and braided stainless lines.
Long story short I think original was over-engineered, or more likely under engineered.

[bfarroo]

Yeah, I had one pic that was kind of hard to see that I was looking at and it looked just like that, a bunch of random fittings that extended the hose out and then down. I though about just using the straight but I think that will put an excessive strain on the hose.

[bfarroo]

Anyone with a dual fan car replaced their fans? I need to order fans for my car one of these days and was wondering if I need anything special. I know it's a 10 inch fan but is there anything specific with the mounting? All the dual fan cars seem to have a trim panel over the rear of the car covering up how they are mounted.

[bfarroo]

Got the parts for my Slave Cylinder Pushrod setup. I couldn't justify paying $30 just for the universal pushrod from pegasus so I rounded off the back of a grade 5 5/16-24 x 4 inch bolt that was $0.99 and got a heim joint to attach to that. The 4 inch bolt might be just a bit to long but I can cut that down easy enough. Forgot to get a jam nut so I'll have to pick one of those up.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Slave_Cylinder_Pushrod.JPG

[bfarroo]

Here's what the 24.99 + shipping rod looks like.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/M/3554.JPG

[player1up]

Anyone with a dual fan car replaced their fans? I need to order fans for my car one of these days and was wondering if I need anything special. I know it's a 10 inch fan but is there anything specific with the mounting? All the dual fan cars seem to have a trim panel over the rear of the car covering up how they are mounted.
The fans are mounted to a plate with holes for the fans, they screw in from the front, thus no mounting screws are visible....I was going to try and describe it, but it was more confusing. I'll have to pull the spoiler and snap a few pics.

I'll see if my fans have part numbers on them.
Parts list shows: DD00830 , POWER FAN-10" PUSHER (A/C) but Danhard website lists 00830M-P as a 9", so I'm a little confused.

[bfarroo]

Measuring the opening I don't think a standard 10 inch fan would fit so 9 inch makes sense.

[bfarroo]

I got the slave cylinder fittings I ordered this week and tried them today. The issue I'm running into now is the snout on the fitting to connect to the line is to long before the threads begin so it won't engage the threads on the hose connector. I'm guessing the hose isn't setup for an AN fitting and is more for 3/8-24 brake fittings although it still looks like it's setup for a tapered fitting. I'm going to try and remove the hose and see what is on the other end. I guess worst case I get a -3 AN hose and be done with it.

[bfarroo]

Here's what was on the other end which was connected to a AN bulkhead connector. Is this part of a make your own line fitting?

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image13.JPG

[cordes]

That is a fitting for PTFE hose. You can make them somewhat like you do regular AN lines, but there is a ferrule that goes over the hose where the nipple is on the bottom of that fitting.

[bfarroo]

So I could possibly find another end or would I be better off getting/making a new one?

[cordes]

So I could possibly find another end or would I be better off getting/making a new one?

I believe they're reusable, but since they work as a system you would need to know the brand in order to buy another ferrule that would go with that fitting AND line. You'll probably have to buy a new section of line and fittings if you want to do it "right".

[bfarroo]

Yeah, it looks like I can just buy a universal -3AN 36" clutch hose for 20 bucks, probably just easier to go that route.

[bfarroo]

I think I'm going to order the Aeroquip FBPA0039-36. It's listed as a -3AN straight to -3AN 90 36" long teflon hose, it's typically listed as a brake line rated to 3000psi.

[cordes]

I think I'm going to order the Aeroquip FBPA0039-36. It's listed as a -3AN straight to -3AN 90 36" long teflon hose, it's typically listed as a brake line rated to 3000psi.

You should be good to go. The only time you have to be very thoughtful is when you're using two fittings on the same line which aren't straight. They don't swivel and it's a huge pain.

[bfarroo]

That's one thing I was trying to find for sure because I didn't want to end up with a hose without swivels and I finally found a tech sheet on their website that both ends are swivel even on the 90 degree hose.

[bfarroo]

On to my next question. Since I have to buy a fuel pump anyway is there any reason why I wouldn't buy a Walbro 255 right away? Comparing the P74015 carter pump it's only 20GPH or 90LPH. I'm sure I'll plan for the basic exhaust,injector,map, cal upgrade to the car once it gets running. Maybe 18PSI or so. What has everyone else put in?

[Johnny]

We (I?) use an external pump.

Fuel Pump...#E2315 AirTech or NAPA P74015
Fuel filter (after pump) is the same as the 1988 Daytona...WIX #33321...NAPA #3321...Purolator #F54617 except with the bracket removed.
The in-line fuel filter before the pump used NAPA Gold gas filter #3248 or
CarQuest #CFI 86299, or WIX #33248 (NAPA is also just a wix filter)
VDO Fuel Sender Unit = #226001

[MPI_duster]

On to my next question. Since I have to buy a fuel pump anyway is there any reason why I wouldn't buy a Walbro 255 right away? Comparing the P74015 carter pump it's only 20GPH or 90LPH. I'm sure I'll plan for the basic exhaust,injector,map, cal upgrade to the car once it gets running. Maybe 18PSI or so. What has everyone else put in?

I've got a Walbro 255, inline filters pre and post pump.

[Johnny]

Walbro 255

Is that a in-line pump? Or in tank style?

[MPI_duster]

Is that a in-line pump? Or in tank style?

In-line.

[bfarroo]

The inline is what I was looking at. About $90 with the mounting kit which I'm guessing I'll need. The stock replacement seems to be about 60-70 from what I'm finding. The pictures I've seen show the pump somewhere just in front of the motor but I'm not sure how it mounts or exactly where it is. Is it just clamped to the cross brace? Looks like it would be a pretty straight shot out of the tank, through the pre filter, then the pump, then Up to the post filter on the front of the cradle then to the fuel rail.

[Johnny]

You might see how on my build thread.

[bfarroo]

I have some pictures saved that probably came from there. They still don't show the greatest. To me it almost looks like a conduit clamp and some sort of home made bracket to attach it to the front engine mount. I think as long as I make something to get it in that general location I'll be good

[Johnny]

This help?

[polopharm]

Buy the walpro. I have 2 filters also, one is the canister type you can open and clean. Then pump then another in line filter. Routed onto a plate mounted to firewall so I can lift it up n easily clean or change.

[Johnny]

Walbro 255

Part number? 255 seems not to be a part number.

[MPI_duster]

Walbro 255

Part number? 255 seems not to be a part number.

http://www.amazon.com/Walbro-GSL-392-In-Line-Pressure-Installation/dp/B0051UH656

PN:GSL-392

If you get the sleeve with it, it mounts with the factory clamp.

[Johnny]

This Wabro obviously works. But I notice reading about it it has 3/8" fittings, does that mean for 3/8 hose? Or the size of the brass screw in part?
My car had larger than 3/8 fuel lines.

[bfarroo]

http://www.amazon.com/Walbro-GSL-392-In-Line-Pressure-Installation/dp/B0051UH656

PN:GSL-392

If you get the sleeve with it, it mounts with the factory clamp.


Yep thats the one I was looking at. That picture does help johnny, the one I had wasn't zoomed in as far and got blurry when zooming so it was hard to see.

[MPI_duster]

This Wabro obviously works. But I notice reading about it it has 3/8" fittings, does that mean for 3/8 hose? Or the size of the brass screw in part?
My car had larger than 3/8 fuel lines.

3/8 pipe thread. Put what ever size barb you want on it, as long as it has 3/8 pipe on the other end.

(Link with better specs)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gsl392 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gsl392)

[bfarroo]

The pump inlet/outlet are10mm x 1. You can buy just about any fitting to screw into it. Is it a banjo type fitting on the discharge of the pump? Seems like an odd choice for flow.

[player1up]

I thought that was kinda weird too. That stock bosch pump had some sort of pulse dampener on it. I'm not running one now

[bfarroo]

For those of you that have messed with your clutch slave cylinder how much play did you leave in the rod end? Would my best bet be to adjust it so that all the free play is out of it or should I leave a little?

[Johnny]

Would my best bet be to adjust it so that all the free play is out

thats what I did.

[MPI_duster]

thats what I did.

Same here.

[bfarroo]

I'm putting in the shifter cables and need to know how the rear cable routes? Looks like war around the passengers side and then under the turbo to the mounting bracket. Is it secured anywhere along the way? Also which cable is which. I don't have any of my other cars at the house to look at. Is the front cable on the trans the side to side or front to back motion at the shifter

[MPI_duster]

I don't remember which is which. But I can help you with the routing. The longer cable shoots towards the passenger side, then runs along the frame rail in my car. It is zip tied in a couple of places to keep it away from the CV Axle.

[bfarroo]

Sounds good. I can run out to my building today and look at one if the 5 spd cars for which is which.

[bfarroo]

This help?

I can't see the top of the fuel pump mount but to me it looks like a conduit clamp with 90 degree bracket welded or bolted to the top of it. Does it look something like this with an added bracket?

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/k2-_e18c7c47-b000-4f59-8ffa-5dabd2343e29_v4.jpg

[player1up]

its similar to that, but has a stud. Sticks off perpendicular to the pump cylinder, kinda like a coil bracket. I'll go look in a few and see if I can get a picture.
....fuel pump clamp 4279679 ...85 omni turbo discontinued...

[bfarroo]

Shifter cables are in and working so now I'm moving onto the radiator and fans. Anyone have any pix of how the fans install on a two fan car?

[bfarroo]

Here's a few pix of the rear of the car.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/DSC03129.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/DSC03130.JPG

[Johnny]

I can't get to my car right now, in storage for another week. Other wise I would take shots.
Is there anything to help on my build thread?

[bfarroo]

I looked but didn't find anything, they're covered in all the shots. I still need to order the fans, I'm just planning on ordering some 9in ebay specials and see how they do, they're 630cfm each so that should be plenty and it seems like all the fans out there look exactly the same. The ones on Danhard's website even look the same using the spiral fan blades instead of the flat ones that I see on the cars although they are listed at 130W. Has anyone had any issues with the stock wiring not being up to the task of running the two fans? The fan's I'm looking at are 80W which is what most seem to be, so that's 13.3 amps at 12 volts, it drops to 11.4 at 14 which I guess is probably ok. also they typically pull less than max if the flow is not restricted through them. Maybe the best bet would be to just put them in and see what they pull.

[player1up]

Mine has 2 fans and works just fine, haven't had any issues with the wiring. As for mounting, on my series 1, the fans mount to a plate that bolts to the radiator support ( metal casing around the radiator ) and has a plate to cover the top part of the fans that stick above the rad....likely series 2 rears are a bit different but also likely that it's just as simple of a solution.
I wouldn't worry at all about the cfm rating. My fans hardly ever run, even during the summer here in FL. I got stuck on I-4 coming back from daytona for about 2 hrs. It wasn't idling for that entire time but never ran hot or acted funny.

[Johnny]

Mine keeps cool too. Only time it got warm was "pushing it" though the northern mountains of New Mexico when it was 115 degrees out.

But using the fans, around traffic, etc...it keeps it's cool.

[bfarroo]

My fans came in today and I mocked them up. They should work fine, very small gap around the edges and move plenty of air.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/DSC03131.JPG

Johnny, I looked through your thread again and found a pic that shows the fan mount brackets, nothing to high tech, I'm sure I can figure something out.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46419&d=1376705787

I traced these two black wires to be the grounds for the taillights. Can anyone verify for me if they go under the fuel rail bolt or at the ground strap on the back of the engine?

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/DSC03133.JPG

The only other thing I'm unsure of is the radiator, the one I got with the car had a pretty rusty bracket attached to it that I removed, the radiator now is basically all fins top and bottom, nothing to protect it. I can clean up the part I have and put it back on but I need something for the bottom for the radiator to rest on when installed. For those of you that removed your radiators does the top and bottom of the radiator had something soldered or brazed on to keep it protected? If I set it in there it seems to sit lower than other pictures I've seen of radiators.

Here's what it looks like
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image2.jpeg
and the bracket I removed
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/image1.jpeg

[Johnny]

My radiator has a top and bottom to protect those fins. Look naked without them.

[player1up]

BEnji, you're missing one piece from the bracket / surround. What you have is the "bottom"...the rad sits down into that and there is another u-channel piece that slips into what you have and there is a bolt on each end to sandwich it together. FYI there are little strips of rubber between the end tanks and the bracket / surround /support thing. Looks like the rubber strip that goes down the center of a spoked bicycle wheel.

FYI, it's starting to look like a car, I know it's got a long way to go, but still super excited for you.

[bfarroo]

I have pictures and dimension for the fuel tank and will hopefully be able to start building it in the next month or two. Anyone have any pictures of the baffles inside and are they a good enough design or should I go a different route? Also where does the fuel exit the tank?

Also on the coolant pressure tank where does the small line coming out the side of the tank go? It's the 1/4 NPT fitting on the right?

[player1up]

Fuel tank exit is on the back at the very bottom, there should be a hole in the firewall for it. Not sure about the baffles, but I know if mine gets around 1/8 tank and I take a HARD left, it will sputter. Not sure if that was a fluke, but I've not tried to recreate the situation.
That coolant tank fitting goes to the radiator, passenger side toward the top of the passenger end tank

[polopharm]

My baffles seem inadequate under 1/2 tank. I went the dirt track route and filled the tank with wiffle balls , they don't degrade like foam and they don't reduce capacity significantly.

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[Johnny]

I took photos of inside my tank, but hard to see whats really there.

[bfarroo]

I can't figure out what the second picture is showing if the fuel comes out the back? what could the hose looking piece be for? It sounds like I may be better off researching a better baffle design before I start welding mine up. maybe even a small sump of some sort.

[Johnny]

These shot were taken looking straight down from the top.
I replaced the sender unit, so while it was out, the shots were
taken from that top opening while the sender was out.

[bfarroo]

Fuel tank exit is on the back at the very bottom, there should be a hole in the firewall for it. Not sure about the baffles, but I know if mine gets around 1/8 tank and I take a HARD left, it will sputter. Not sure if that was a fluke, but I've not tried to recreate the situation.
That coolant tank fitting goes to the radiator, passenger side toward the top of the passenger end tank

does it come out of the angled section then?

[bfarroo]

Seen this advertised and might give it a try for the fuel cell. A little pricey but no messing around hoping the baffles will be right.

https://holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/

[polopharm]

I think its over kill , why not just use the foam blocks they use in racing fuel cells ?

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[shmedley]

I saw that the other day also. Was thinking about trying one myself so I couls get a brand new tank and not worry about the baffle that probably won't be there because I got a sent a carbed car tank

[jacob mosler]

Seen this advertised and might give it a try for the fuel cell. A little pricey but no messing around hoping the baffles will be right.

https://holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/

good idea, the foam will break down and you will have to clean it out again every 4-5 years. if you are not racing competitively id skip the foam.

[Johnny]

Took some photos for you on how the fans are set in there.
Hope this helps.

[bfarroo]

Thanks johnny, I'll need to pick up some 2 inch angle and get them mounted in. Been busy with other stuff and haven't done much with the car in the last few weeks. Hope to get back to odds and ends in the next week or two. A guy at work is going to hopefully draw up the cooling system pressure tank and fuel cell for me in CAD and hopefully I can get the company that does out metal work to bend up the big pieces to the specs so I have as few seams as possible to weld.

[bfarroo]

If someone happens to have their headlight mount out at some point and could measure it up and get me some dimension or even better make a heavy paper/cardboard template and send it to me I'd appreciate it. I have some pictures but dimension would help out getting things exact.

[polopharm]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170407/a57fff3708791012b5766eb3993db7c3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170407/9feff17d27a222f3e760d679df8b1d60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170407/57dab24e1e7210ccf4f59f98e2e17ebf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170407/a58d4a727aa6e42c2117bb9777bc04f4.jpg

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[bfarroo]

Any chance you could take some measurements of length/width/hole diameter ect when you have some time?

[polopharm]

Will try and get that done this week. That's from race car and won't be at shop till mid week

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[bfarroo]

My cars a very slow work in progress so I'm in no hurry. Thanks for taking the time.

- - - Updated - - -


Took some photos for you on how the fans are set in there.
Hope this helps.

Is there just foam rubber sandwiching the fan to the body or does something else bolt it down?

[Johnny]

Just held by this L brackets.The black stuff between the fan and the L bracket is a real stiff foam/rubber stuff.
I'd guess and piece of rubber would work as a isolator.

[bfarroo]

Thanks Johnny.

[bfarroo]

What size battery are you guys using. My hold down for the battery is about 4.25 x 8.5.

[player1up]

My battery is a group size 26 with 525CCA ( but amperage rating has changed over the past few years ) and Autozone's website says it to be the correct battery for dyatona

[Johnny]

My battery is 6-3/4" by 8" and 6-1/2" tall.

[bfarroo]

Here's what my tray looks like.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2531.JPG

[polopharm]

My battery tray is on the passenger side in the race car. Drivers side on the blue car https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170420/5ad5543f26b2971b0458e5203d7dcd37.jpg

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[Johnny]

Maybe because one would have a spare tire and one would not?

[bfarroo]

My battery tray is on the passenger side in the race car. Drivers side on the blue car https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170420/5ad5543f26b2971b0458e5203d7dcd37.jpg

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that tray looks about the same size as mine. You have a battery for it yet?

[polopharm]

Long time getting back to this post. Sorry
We made a new aluminum bracket , but its the same size as stock
Oddysey battery fit right in. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/e261c5669eb8383974f980af93f8516d.jpg

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[Johnny]

Impressive!
Looks great.

[bfarroo]

Looks wider than the stock one but maybe it's an illusion. Haven't gotten much done other than radiator fan mounts built. I need to get back on it. just no time lately with the two young kids. Seems like something is scheduled every weekend.

[bfarroo]

Finally got one small thing checked off. Fans are mounted and wired.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Fan_Brackets_and_Wiring.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Fans_Installed.jpg

For those of you that have looked or had your fans out where do the wires go? do they go straight down through a hole or something? In the first pic you can see the wires are just laying on top but I should have plenty of length if I need to knock a hole and run the wires underneath. Where they are now they're probably going to interfere with the radiator.

[player1up]

Mine go straight down into a single hole in the rear, but I have a short tail car so the hole is in front of the bumper but behind the fans.

[bfarroo]

Popped a hole under each fan and dropped the wires underneath. Should be good. Maybe I'll put some silicone into the holes to seal them off.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Fan_Wire_Holes.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Fan_Wiring.JPG

[bfarroo]

Working on the front cover today. We'll see how this works out.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2826.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2830.JPG

[bfarroo]

All cut out and trimmed. Mine looks like its setup for two dzus fasteners at the top. how are everyone else's setup? I thought some had a lock? Maybe the same as the rear? I'll need to get the studs for the latches installed. Anyone have some pictures and or dimensions as to where the studs attach and what the brackets are? I though they were just two 90's kind of S shaped.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2878.JPG

[Johnny]

two dzus fasteners at the top

Thats what mine has.

[polopharm]

My series one had dzus clips , the series 2 has a lock.
The dzus clip works better.
Will take pictures asap

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[player1up]

Mine also has dzus clips on the top and stepped flat aluminum tabs on the bottom ( front ). I'll send you a pic. Aaron's targa has a lock.
My engine cover clips always pop loose and rattle and I'm always worried that the front ones will do that.

[bfarroo]

Can someone measure how thick their front cover is for me? if I sit mine all the way down and compress the rubber it sits a bit low. I'm thinking I'll need a few more layers of fiberglass around the inner edge to build up the thickness to make it sit more flush. Also what do all your cars have for foam? mine just has a few 4-5 inch long pieces glued in. I thought I seen some that had the door seal type that slide over the lip?

[Johnny]

My front covers rubber was shot. So used the same that I used on the doors...from a mid 2000's sliding door off of a Caravan/T&C.

[polopharm]

Mine is same as Johnny's

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[bfarroo]

Will 1 van worth of rubber do the two doors and the hood or will I need two. Anything for the engine cover?

[Johnny]

You will need two doors worth.

[polopharm]

My engine cover has no rubber. But i think there is supposed be some on the back area behind engine ( golf club storage area)

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[bfarroo]

Anyone upgrade their rear calipers and have the old ones for sale. I need to get rear calipers for my car and want to keep the stock setup with parking brake but don't really want to spend $250 for rebuilt calipers with the core charge. Anyone have any 88 fiero's in a yard by them?

[Johnny]

I will this winter.
That eBrake system is not that great.
I am going to go to the same brakes that are on the front...making
both front and rear brakes the same. Then adding a line-lock for use as a parking brake.

[bfarroo]

What are the issues you have with the eBrake?

[bfarroo]

Got my old radiator surround blasted and powdercoated.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2917.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2918.JPG

[Johnny]

What are the issues you have with the eBrake?

Two cables, two brakes, never seem to be in adjustment.

And need larger rear brakes anyway.

[polopharm]

Heres some shots of the frunk. First one is to show thickness. Mine sits pretty flush to body. Has rubber seals like the doors around it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/0825b8fd34ce0a79419903498aa6b728.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/77fda4e14d4da04254147adc9e80194b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/ad0f3869ba1e9a815799fbf3bbeb4289.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/9a9eb4ec8282d68b65ccdb65ec66eb85.jpg

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[bfarroo]

It's hard to tell but is it thicker around the edge or the same thickness throughout?

[polopharm]

Its basically the same thickness , there is 1 LESS layer of cloth around the edge. I have no idea why, maybe to sit more flush.
But is literally 1 layer difference

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[bfarroo]

Johnny, can you get me some pictures and some dimensions of the rear bumper on your car. I'm going to try to make one up and yours is the same body style. Also some pictures of the engine cover hinges so I can find something similar.

[Johnny]

Would be nice to make a mold of it. I can shoot photos and get measurements though. Give me a day or two.......

[Johnny]

Couple more.

[bfarroo]

A mold would be nice, not sure how much interest there would be in replacement bumpers to go through the work.

[bfarroo]

Also looking for pictures of the headlight trim piece.

[bfarroo]

Found a few pics of headlight moldings so I should be good there.

Is this what the weather strip looks like? Do they typically seem to be in decent shape when you've pulled them? I know there are quite a few in the yard by me, I just have to get out there to get it.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=919558&jsn=342

Those of you with the Dzus fasteners for your front trunk lid, what does the part in the actual lid look like? the attachment point on my car looks different than the standard dzus style fasteners so I'm wondering if i'm better off finding the original style or switching over to what I'm finding on the net.

[Johnny]

The rubber I found on the mid to later vans was great. Is it like the one on rockauto?...sort of. That one might work fine, hard to see it for sure.
imdont have headlight trim...I need both also.

[player1up]

Those of you with the Dzus fasteners for your front trunk lid, what does the part in the actual lid look like? the attachment point on my car looks different than the standard dzus style fasteners so I'm wondering if i'm better off finding the original style or switching over to what I'm finding on the net.

The Dzus fasteners are used on the front suspension belly plate. The fasteners on my frunk and engine cover are some odd phillips 1/4 turn things. I had the number off of them somewhere... Camloc 4002 NS is what is stamped into them.

[bfarroo]

I'll have to decide if I want to stick with the camlock/dzus fasteners or go with a lock. The more I think about it I like the idea of having a lock over the 1/4 turn fasteners.

In other news I spent some time mocking up a headlight mount tonight just need to pick up some mounting screws and springs and get their locations determined and then transfer the whole works over to aluminum

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2968.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_2967.JPG

[bfarroo]

Are the headlight adjuster screws the type that clip into a square hole? I can't quite tell in the pictures I have.

[bfarroo]

Anyone know what the wiper arm is from?

[polopharm]

The blue car has no headlight trim. Did later cars not come with it?

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[GTP#44]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61529&stc=1
I have a rear bumper in my shop from one of the salvage missions to Mosler if this helps out let me know. You are welcome to use it for a possible mold..?

[bfarroo]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61529&stc=1
I have a rear bumper in my shop from one of the salvage missions to Mosler if this helps out let me know. You are welcome to use it for a possible mold..?

I have a series 2 bumper but need the one that works with the angled back. Is it the same as on your car? shipping would probably be pretty high round trip to WI and back to FL.

This bumper
http://consuliergtp.com/photos/25.jpg

[bfarroo]

The blue car has no headlight trim. Did later cars not come with it?

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I'm assuming that they were all intended to get them but some didn't? Here's what I'm talking about

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Headlight_Bezzel_2.jpg

[Johnny]

Here is a series one...I need these also.

[player1up]

Anyone know what the wiper arm is from?

I thought that I heard it was a BMW part, but the part number off the wiper motor ( 0 390 241 318 ) seems to point to Volvo, International Harvester or Case tractors

[polopharm]

Is it just me , or maybe the pictures , but the series 1 headlight bracket looks pretty clunky.
My blue car has no brackets and I think it actually looks better. But that just my opinion.

I am having the guys thats been doing my fab work to make some headlight/ running light covers for the race car. If they turn out well that may be another option https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170926/b8c238c3f24b569f6938fe1cffc7fbb0.jpg

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[bfarroo]

I thought that I heard it was a BMW part, but the part number off the wiper motor ( 0 390 241 318 (tel:0 390 241 318) ) seems to point to Volvo, International Harvester or Case tractors

i have the motor just no arm. Maybe I can search the motor number and see what it's off of and get some pictures.

[Johnny]

Have you tried a arm off a Daytona or Caravan to see if it fits???

[bfarroo]

I haven't but I should have one laying around somewhere I could try.

[player1up]

its a 1983-91 bmw e30 wiper arm. The part number on the inside of the plastic bolt cover is 190888 and has a logo SWF.
The one on my car has a casting mark from '87

[bfarroo]

Any part # underneath by the spring? That seems to be where they show it in pictures I've found. That may help with passengers side versus drivers.

[Johnny]

You have a series 2?

[polopharm]

I am right in remembering that series 1 has a single large wiper and the series 2 , two a large in the center and a small wiper on the drivers side?

I imagine there is a lot of overlap among the early series 2 , late series 1.

Will be in front of my car later today and will look for my part numbers

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[Johnny]

Right series one's had one wiper.

[bfarroo]

Yes mine is a series 1 with a single arm. I'd guess they used a drives arm but I wouldn't bet on it with how random other parts are.

[bfarroo]

Anyone replace their fuel lines and what did you use? Mine haven't necessarily had any fuel through them but they're still 25+ years old so I think I'm going to replace them regardless. I was thinking of just replacing it with the Gates Barricade Greenshield fuel injection hose.

[Johnny]

I used fuel injection hose, think it was from NAPA.

[player1up]

I replaced all of the hose in my car, vac lines included, cheap insurance.
All of the fuel lines were cracking, the rubber section in the turbo oil feed line pulled out of the crimp, the turbo drain back hose had a bubble inside it so bad that it was blocking more than half of the opening.
Make sure it's fuel injection hose for the fuel lines and oil rated if for oil. I know that should be a no brainer, but I had the guy behind the parts counter try to give me heater hose for the turbo drain back, said it would work fine....nope. It'll work in a pinch but will break down VERY quickly.
Napa had the right hose in stock.

[bfarroo]

Yes I'll definitely use fuel injection hose. The engine is new and there has never been any gas through the lines but I don't feel safe with 25 year old lines. I'm probably going to order 15' of gates barricade green shield hose. It's about $3 a foot on amazon or eBay. 225 psi working pressure and safe with ethanol. $5 a foot at the parts stores.

[bfarroo]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61529&stc=1
I have a rear bumper in my shop from one of the salvage missions to Mosler if this helps out let me know. You are welcome to use it for a possible mold..?

I talked to a guy I work with that does fiberglass and he said it should be pretty easy to make a mold of that bumper. I'll send you a PM and we can figure out getting it up to WI so I can make a mold.

[GTP#44]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61610&stc=1

Here is a picture of the one I have.

[polopharm]

I have a front bumper mold.
What parts are you still missing?
Cleaning garages out.

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[bfarroo]

I have a front bumper mold.
What parts are you still missing?
Cleaning garages out.

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It's getting shorter but still pretty long.
Off the top of my head
1. Correct rear bumper. I have a series 2 one but need a series 1
2. Correct spoiler. I have a short rear spoiler, need a long one. The plan is to modify the short one to cover the radiator
3. Rear calipers / rotors
4. Gauges
5. Seats and pretty much the whole interior. I like the seats johnny got so I may get a set of those. Short of covering the dash the reset of the interior should be pretty easy.
6. Wiper arm
7. Fuel tank - I have dimensions just need to build
8. Steering wheel- has a dodge wheel of some sort, need to find a better aftermarket one eventually
9. headlight mounts - In process
10. Coolant pressure tank - In Process
11. Probably some hvac stuff like vents and maybe some of the knobs. I'll probably get to that when I get and install the gauges.
12. Engine cover hinges. Should be easy to modify any random store bought hinge. Just haven't looked at it yet.

I'm sure there's some other random pieces but that's the major stuff.

- - - Updated - - -


http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61610&stc=1

Here is a picture of the one I have.

The picture didn't come through

[bfarroo]

Got my coolant expansion tank today. Should be the last component needed to finish the cooling system

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_30471.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3048.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3049.JPG

[polopharm]

Looks good!


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[bfarroo]

I have the PDF, STP, and possibly iam or dwf drawings. if anyone wants them just let me know and I should be able to dig them up.

[player1up]

Engine cover hinges are different from coupe to roadster / targa. The coupe has RX-7 rear glass hinges and Aaron's targa has what look to be very similar to stuff used in the boating world. 2 holes on the car, 3 holes on the cover.

For the A/C stuff. A company named Danhard inc still sells just about all of it and of the part numbers don't come up on their site, they had the items just with different part numbers.

[Johnny]

For the A/C stuff. A company named Danhard inc still sells just about all of it and of the part numbers don't come up on their site, they had the items just with different part numbers.

The long AC hoses also?

[player1up]

The long AC hoses also?

I don't think so. Due to the fact that the parts list shows the individual hose parts, I believe they either built in house or built locally ( but if that were the case they should have just bought the parts locally )

[polopharm]

I have these hinges that were on a spare series 1 engine cover.

The other piece is the finger pull or whatever you want to call the thing you use to lift the cover https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171110/ed862222c5a5b528e9329ef104a78d6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171110/1afa78f9ae99803bd9d92d92b5f63861.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171110/7cad2c3a4bb00b29492b0d19c00f11c4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

[bfarroo]

There are actually a few different ones available online for relatively reasonable prices. Some less than $10 for the pair shipped. Granted they're from china so who knows what the quality is.

[bfarroo]

Can anyone tell me where the coolant line that exits the side of the expansion tank goes? I have the line that goes back to the overflow out of the filler neck and the one that goes to the larger fitting in the back of the tank down to the distribution block but can't find any other coolant hoses?

[player1up]

Can anyone tell me where the coolant line that exits the side of the expansion tank goes? I have the line that goes back to the overflow out of the filler neck and the one that goes to the larger fitting in the back of the tank down to the distribution block but can't find any other coolant hoses?

Pretty sure that one goes all the way back to the passenger side of the radiator, there is a little fitting on the top passenger side of the end tank...is your car the same???? who knows LOL

[Johnny]

Mine is this way.

[bfarroo]

OK, that's what I was thinking but my radiator has a pet---- installed in it. That will be easy enough to remove. I'm assuming this is to help bleed out air? To me it seems like coming out of the top of the thermostat housing directly into the tank instead of down to the junction point would make more sense to bleed air. Has anyone had issues bleeding air. I'll drill a hole in the T-Stat like normal. Anything else to look out for? I'm guessing around a -4 hose or so?

[polopharm]

I have a tool i bought for bleeding air out of my old mr2 coolant system. Works great. Was very cheap. Pictures posted below. Its a modified funnel, it has an airtight seal to expansion tank you add extensions as needed to elevate it. Run car with it installed( fill funnel half way first) and run till you get a big " burp" . Instructions are clear , super handy little tool.

Did you find fiero brake stuff? I think i located my old rear spindles, and calipers. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171118/9244ec9a0254b4882cb3aa3b890f51fc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171118/11dbe71d8513fa2bb89fb11b50eb4363.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171118/655fab3f7b1208f88495183a929b7c2f.jpg

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[bfarroo]

Haven't found rear brake parts yet. Looks like a nifty funnel. I think I've seen them before. I got mounts made the secure the radiator today so I'll need to pick up a few fittings to attach the radiator to the tank and the tank to the engine.

I picked up some sheet aluminum to start making the headlight mounts. Hopefully I can get those done next week. I need to make a few fixtures to bend metal on my press.

[Johnny]

Haven't found rear brake parts yet.
What about using the same brakes on the rear as the front...then using a line lock for the parking brake?

[bfarroo]

Can you get a line lock in a normally closed so that the coil is off to hold pressure as not to kill the battery? I'd prefer it to be manual and not have to worry about something electrical failing. Having it bolt in at this point would be easiest. I'd have to find the unmodified knuckles to bolt in also. I haven't looked into it at all but why couldn't regular dodge rear brakes be fitted using the earlier 87ish calipers with the built in e-brake?

[Johnny]

No electric needed for this one.
i am going this route.

[bfarroo]

Got radiator mounts made this weekend, just need to get some rubber to isolate it around the top.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3070.JPG

[bfarroo]

For those of you that have had your radiator out, how is the 1/4" equalization line from the expansion tank attached to the radiator and how do you get the radiator installed with the fitting installed. It looks like I'll have to put the radiator in and then try to install the fitting afterward from inside the body which doesn't look to be to easy. I'm planning on putting in a 90 degree fitting on the radiator with a screw on jic type fitting.

[bfarroo]

got some shinny new hinges for the engine cover.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3123.JPG

- - - Updated - - -

made a jig to bend up the headlight mounts.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3121.JPG

[bfarroo]

Got the headlight mounts mostly finished this weekend. Just need to find correct springs and add the holes to hook them to.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3137.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3138.JPG

[Johnny]

Going with round lights?
Those look great.

[polopharm]

I think they all have the round holes. The back of the stock headlights are round where the bulb/ wiring are.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

[bfarroo]

Going with round lights?
Those look great.

Stock rectangle lights. The factory ones had 3 tabs to support the light. I left the circle whole. I can always use a die grinder to remove some material to leave 3 tabs if they are hard to adjust.

[bfarroo]

Got the expansion tank installed and fuel lines replaced. Found that all 4 ball joints didn't have grease fittings installed? I installed some that I had here, maybe they were never installed at the factory who knows. Took off the coolant lines from the engine and blew out the hoses since they weren't hooked up at the radiator. They were taped shut and didn't have anything in them but I just wanted to make sure. It was weird seeing a brand new thermostat housing.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3157.JPG

[Johnny]

expansion tank turned out real nice.

[player1up]

Looks like you have an airbag steering wheel. I'm curious about the airbag controls, sensors and such. Not that I'm considering adding it to my car, just curious how it was implemented. If I'm not mistaken, first gen airbags only use the control module for impact sensing and don't have any front, side sensors

[bfarroo]

The wheel doesn't have any functioning controls or even contain an airbag. I'm guessing the column came with this wheel and they switched them out for the aftermarket ones. I'll eventually find an aftermarket one for it.

[bfarroo]

anyone have any idea what the headlight springs would have come from? I have a part # of AJ893600221 from the parts list but can't seem to find anything by that #.

[player1up]

I'd have to guess that it's a GM part or that we could get them from the GM trucks that share the same headlights.
Have a look at LMC truck
http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cc/CC8JF.htm

[bfarroo]

are they GM lights? I thought they were volvo or something like that.

[Thrillz]

Same size as some GM's. There werw a few years of trucks, but they are also the same size as 1997-2002 trans ams. There's not a whole lot of options for upgrades being they are an odd size, too bad 4"x6" ones weren't used.

[polopharm]

There is a HUGE crate full of headlights at Rossion. They are from a European GM Capri.
They do not have springs with them.

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[bfarroo]

Yeah I have a set of lights I got when I was down there. I picked up a set of springs off a jeep of some sort. They're about 1.5 inch end to end and I need about 1 inch end to end. It's hard to find specs on different springs. most places just say the spring is for car X. I tried grainger and McMaster Race Car but didn't find much there. I may just try modifying the springs I got and see if I can shorten them.

[bfarroo]

Can anyone with a targa top car give me a shot of how your door top is finished off? a picture of this area will help.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3162.JPG

[Johnny]

Ill try to get some for you.

[Johnny]

Hope these help and are what you are looking for.
I had black tape on it...to see if I wanted to paint part of it black.

[bfarroo]

Thanks johnny, looks like they actually cut the door down a little compared to mine. I'm assuming the top would sit down on top of the small window.

[bfarroo]

Anyone replace or find a vendor for the rectangle(close to square) peterson mfg marker lights that will fit in the stock location without modification? from what I can tell it looks like they slightly changed the design of the back making it one depth instead of tow and the body is molded to the shape of the light. I'm guessing I'm going to have to probably cut things a bit to get the newer LED or incandescent ones in there.

I'm thinking something like this
https://www.etrailer.com/p-MCL36RB.html

[player1up]

seller theshelbymall on ebay has some red ones. I searched peterson MFG 1993 01

[bfarroo]

Thanks, I know we had talked about them a while back but couldn't find the part # and everything else was the new style. I figured someone would have old stock.

[bfarroo]

How does the light connect to the vehicle harness? Mine has the same small plug for the side markers as the tail lights Like below.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVCatalogAssetStore/21249/thumb/5013879_dcd_85814_pri_thmb.jpg

I'm assuming there must be some sort of harness that plugs into the light.

[bfarroo]

Anyone have pix of how the prop rod attaches to the car, I have pix of the bracket the goes on the engine cover but nothing on the body side. I'm not sure if the hard top and targa/roadster are the same.

[Johnny]

Hope this helps.

[player1up]

If your car has these style plugs it's setup for the long ( D3TZ-15A201 ) series 2 marker lights. My little square lights have a connector that has 2 barrel style female holes in it. Have a look through the consulier gallery, most targas have the long ford style markers front and back, but there is one that has square in the rear and long in the front. One oddball, the 08 car has 70's chrysler markers in the rear and long in the front


How does the light connect to the vehicle harness? Mine has the same small plug for the side markers as the tail lights Like below.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVCatalogAssetStore/21249/thumb/5013879_dcd_85814_pri_thmb.jpg

I'm assuming there must be some sort of harness that plugs into the light.

[bfarroo]

If your car has these style plugs it's setup for the long ( D3TZ-15A201 ) series 2 marker lights. My little square lights have a connector that has 2 barrel style female holes in it. Have a look through the consulier gallery, most targas have the long ford style markers front and back, but there is one that has square in the rear and long in the front. One oddball, the 08 car has 70's chrysler markers in the rear and long in the front

The body is physically molded for the square rear lights. Maybe they put the extra body panel over the square light recess when they used the long one? The front isn't molded for anything and I probably will leave it clean for now. The front one is built into the bumper on the other cars.

[bfarroo]

Thanks Johnny. The car actually has two nutserts right there so I'm all set. Jut cut some angle and get a ball and socket setup.

[bfarroo]

Rear side marker lights came in. Should be able to get them mounted and wired this weekend. Moving forward 1 small step at a time.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3211.JPG

Cooling system is complete, fuel system is complete minus the tank, going through some wiring stuff now. I may hook up power this weekend and see if I can get some of the basic stuff working.

I need to install the tumbler into the column. Anyone know if there is anything special to do this? I haven't looked at it yet but it seemed like taking them out was a bit involved.

[bfarroo]

Got the engine cover rod mount made. One small step closer.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3219.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3220.JPG

[Johnny]

Looks better than original ones!

[bfarroo]

My ball and socket came in for the end of the prop rod but I somehow ordered a left hand thread instead of a right hand. Not sure how I managed that but I have the correct one on order now.

[bfarroo]

Started fitting the rear spoiler I picked up at Rosin. I got the rear cut down to the correct length to line up with the rear grills. Just need to lengthen the front to cover the radiator and blend the sides in a little better to the body.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3223.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3224.JPG

[bfarroo]

Any of you found a wiring diagram for the dash wiring? I need to start locating the wires to hook up the indicators on the dash and haven't had any luck yet finding anything. I'm guessing it's an 88 Daytona harness?

[bfarroo]

Here they are from a FSM incase anyone else needs them. Thanks Mike Pascali for looking them up.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Red_Plug.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/Grey_Plug.JPG

[bfarroo]

Looking for a passengers side outer or drivers side inner headlight if anyone picked up any extra from rosin. I wasn't paying attention when I was grabbing them and I grabbed two drivers side outer lights. I don't really need to bulb just the bucket. looking at it with the bulb glass toward you I need one with a tab on the top and a tab on the left.

Anyone know if Michael Magree is still a good contact over there? I may try contacting him and see if he could get me one if all else fails.

[Johnny]

Anyone know if Michael Magree is still a good contact over there?

Nope.

[bfarroo]

What are the issues any other GTP owners have had with the speed sensor? I've heard of owners switching to the gps style sensor. I'm looking at gauges for my car and I don't see anything that matches my current sensor and was wondering what the reason is for switching is?

[Johnny]

I switched be cause I bought a new speedometer. Thought the GPS sounded good...thats about it.

[Thrillz]

Same here, just got a new version of the original speedo and figured the gps is more accurate anyways.

[polopharm]

I had problems with the speedo in both my cars. I had several guages , including new ones. None worked. Changed sensors , still nothing.
Switched to GPS , it works great.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

[MPI_duster]

I switched out of convenience also. Much happier with the GPS speedo.

[bfarroo]

Got a windshield wiper and laid out some fiberglass sheets to make the lower covers for the front and rear.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3315.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3316.JPG

[bfarroo]

Squared up my fiberglass sheets and installed my cleaned up and painted cruise actuator. Just need to measure out what size I need and cut it to the proper size.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3323.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_3341.JPG

[Millerman340]

Wow! I did not realize how much of a cluster that roadster was going to be, I was just enamored by it to the point I'd probity cut off a ear or an appendage for it..

[player1up]

It's like buying a worst case scenario "basket case" car

[bfarroo]

Honestly I feel like I'm getting close to the end of the tunnel. I have half the gauges ordered, just need to get the rest and install the dash, then get the fuel tank and I should be able to start it. Finish up the brakes and From there it will be finish up the body work and the paint and get to the interior. Still lots to do but nothing crazy. I just only have a few hours a week to work on it so it's slow moving.

[bfarroo]

Wow it's been a year since I've updated this. Built a new house so it wasn't until this winter I got the car into the new garage. I have all of the gauges now and wiring them up in the dash. I extended the short tail spoiler I had picked up at Rosin and have that roughed in.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_16051.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_1648.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_1650.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_1653.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/1002/medium/IMG_1678.JPG

[player1up]

Looking good Benji!!
Don't worry, take your time and you'll be happy with the results.

It took me almost 4 months to do the motor swap and it looked like a basket case up until the day before it ran for the first time.