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View Full Version : 85-87 T1 to T2 LM Conversion



Subliminal
12-20-2005, 11:46 AM
The following directions will allow you to convert your 1985-1987 T1 computer setup to 1987 T2 Status. This allows you to swap to the better flowing (and intercoolable) 1 piece intake used from 1987(T2) forward:


Move Pin #4 on the blue connector (Black/orange or pink) to Pin #4 on the red connector (Just cut the old orange/green wire it's useless on the T2 Swap part)

Move Pin #14 on the blue connector (white/orange) to Pin #9 on the red connector

Map Wiring:

Use the White/Violet one off the "underhood map" or the Red Wire on the stock map to the red connector Pin #1

Use the Dark Green/Red off the "underhood map" or the Black wire on the stock map to the blue connector Pin #19

Use the Black/Light blue wire off the "underhood map" or the white wire on the stock map and splice it into the red connector
Pin #25

For the TPS, just match the wires on the old connector to the new connector

For the AIS, match up the old wires to their matching ones, and for the two extra ones:

Black/Yellow To Pin #16 on the red connector
Violet/Brown to Pin #20 on the red connector

Pictures of the "Pinouts" can be found here:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/lm-1986-t1.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/lm-1987-t2.html

Other possible helpful links:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/lm-1986-t2.html
http://fwdmopar.50megs.com/T2conv.html

Other considerations:
This swap is used to easily utilize the intercoolable T2 and late model T1 hardware (turbo, manifolds, sensors, etc...)
Swapping from 85 to newer computers require the use of an 86+ distributor.
The 85 ‘G’ head requires 6 - 8 degrees more advance than the ‘swirl’ head used on the 86+ cars. You can bump the initial timing up to compensate.
The Air Charge Temperature Sensor and plug used on early ‘log’ manifolds is the same as the one required on the 87+ T2 setup.
To drill and tap your 1 piece intake for the Air Charge Sensor like the T2 intakes, the correct and verified drill bit and tap needed are:

37/64" Drill Bit, Available from Grainger or McMaster-Carr. Grainger sells it cheaper, and be sure to get the 1/2" reduced shank so it fits a 1/2" drill chuck! You also need a 3/8-18 NPT Tap. Use a center punch to dimple the aluminum, then run a 1/16" drill bit just a little bit into it to make a nice defined area for the 37/64" to sit in and not. Be sure to continually lubricate the bits and taps with WD40 or equivilant.
You can keep the map sensor under the dash near the LM, the vacuum line is already there & all you have to do is wire it up.
It is also possible to convert to the newer SMEC or SBEC computer systems, but this requires much more work. A full wiring harness swap is requires, as well as new sensors, and usually the modification of the ‘bulkhead connector’ to match up with the one on the firewall of the older vehicle. If the pin swapping in this writeup has a difficulty level of 2/10, the wiring harness swap for SMEC/SBEC would probably be a 7/10.


Definitions:


LM – Logic Module. It’s part of the computer which sits in the right side kick panel inside the cab
PM – Power Module. The other ½ of the car’s computer which is under the hood.
AIS - The AIS controls the idle speed by letting air bypass the throttle plate.
TPS – Throttle Position Sensor
MAP – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor, a variable resistor used to monitor the difference in pressure between the intake manifold at outside atmosphere.