#4 cyl coolant mod install

[player1up]

I know I saw some familiar names on the #4 coolant mod plate group buy over at TD.

How exactly do you plan on installing it? Heater or t-stat housing ?

I'm leaning toward the t-stat housing method, but since Consuliers already have a hose run to the top of the thermostat where the plug would normally be, I'm wondering if installing a T-fitting there will make the flow less effective.
Am I over thinking this?

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

would one of these be any help ?

it's for remote mounting , uses a chevy t stat but I was originally thinking of cutting a big round hole and two bolt holes in the back of it so I could mount it where the original t stat houseing goes

but I have no clue as to if that rigging would fit in your car

https://www.google.ca/search?q=wieand+remote+thermostat+box&hl=en&sourceid=gd&rlz=1Q1GGLD_en-GBCA550CA551&gws_rd=cr,ssl&ei=RupUVb6uDJOVyQSaqIGoBw#hl=en&q=weiand+remote+thermostat+box&spell=1

same , but much cheeper
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221770436404?item=221770436404&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true

[player1up]

I suppose it would just be a thermostat spacer at that point. After a quick look on rockauto the thermostat gasket looks like it interchanges with GM stuff. So, in theory, a GM thermostat spacer would work...hmm, maybe not, I'll have to make sure that'll work

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

t stat houseing foot print and gasket for chev v8 is much larger


maybe the listing you were looking for was something else

- you would need a chevy t stat & houseing to go on top of the water box I linked to but then you would have a houseing neck / hose size issue

thinking now acannel maybe has a t stat spacer for those who wanted to mount a temp sensor where the bleed plug is / was

a quick pm would answer that question and might be the easy way for you to get this done

[168glhs1986]

Matt, how much HP is your engine putting out? My GLHS is doing just fine at 320 hp ish without this mod.

I guess it can't hurt but the price would have to be right for me to consider it when it's not really needed.

[mopar-tech]

Matt, how much HP is your engine putting out? My GLHS is doing just fine at 320 hp ish without this mod.



Have to be making a healthy amount of power before the problem starts showing itself.

Gary D.

[2.216VTurbo]

When I did the refreshed top end on Woody a couple thousand miles ago, I used ACannell's T-stat style version. I've always hated that rust prone lower J heater hard line so Im glad to be rid of that and there's a bit more room there now for something useful:eyebrows: I also did a new radiator at the same time so I can't point to the 4th cly mod as the reason but Woody runs so cool now it sits on the 'top' C line on the gauge, used to run 1/2 to 5/8ths gauge. Im happy with it, it looks clean and doesn't leak:clap:

[acannell]

I could make the thermostat spacer again if 3 or 4 people wanted one. The problem is, its about the same price as the 4th cyl mod adapter plate (actually a little more), so you start to get pretty expensive overall.

heres the plate for reference

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f7/f28/409674-thermostat-spacer-w-two-1-8-a.html

Just off the top of my head, I think you could just take a couple bucks worth of 1/2 aluminum plate, and with very basic tools, hack your way into something that is 90% as good looking and just as functional as the tstat spacer I used to make.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff197/acannell/photobucket-6271-1352695108761.jpg

[player1up]

Matt, how much HP is your engine putting out? My GLHS is doing just fine at 320 hp ish without this mod.

I guess it can't hurt but the price would have to be right for me to consider it when it's not really needed.

I fully understand that this particular engine may not really ever "need" it, but for the cost at the time it seemed fairly cheap.
I spent more on my cool flashing upper brake light thing.


Have to be making a healthy amount of power before the problem starts showing itself.

Gary D.



There have been at least 2 head gasket failures on the fire sale cars ( I think both that I'm aware of were at stock boost levels. I'm not liking those odds ). I also understand that no one has confirmed that the #4 cyl was the problem..but mine will see 18 psi every time I drive it ( as soon as the clutch is completely broken in ) and most likely north of 20 shortly thereafter .

I suppose for me this was about getting my hands on one and giving this high mileage old engine all of the protection it can get and give me a little peace of mind...

oh really who am I kidding? i'll blow this one up and I'll for sure need it on the next build... ;) ( seriously, I'm trying not to blow it up )

[mopar-tech]

I also understand that no one has confirmed that the #4 cyl was the problem..

I was one of the first people who identified that it was an issue, in 2000 when I was running 32 pounds of boost with an S-60 turbo.

18 psi? I'd not worry about that at all. Daytona didn't have it when it was my DD and running 12's. Can't see anything being hurt by running it though.

Gary D.

[player1up]

Just off the top of my head, I think you could just take a couple bucks worth of 1/2 aluminum plate, and with very basic tools, hack your way into something that is 90% as good looking and just as functional as the tstat spacer I used to make.


I'll most likely do a T at the top hose but that looks pretty nice.


I was one of the first people who identified that it was an issue, in 2000 when I was running 32 pounds of boost with an S-60 turbo.

18 psi? I'd not worry about that at all. Daytona didn't have it when it was my DD and running 12's. Can't see anything being hurt by running it though.

Gary D.

Oh, I wasn't saying it's not a confirmed issue with these engines, just that on the consulier's that have blown the head gaskets I don't think it hasn't been confirmed that #4 was the issue.
My biggest worry is that these things sat for so long and we KNOW that they were beaten on so who knows what will happen next. I could be doing a HG next week...
I'd LOVE to see what one of these cars would do with 30 pounds of boost, but the parts path to that destination isn't in the budget right now.
...but I have to start the front suspension rebuild first. Safety first.

[polopharm]

I have not torn mine apart yet. Working on putting the new one in. But I ,too, am curious to find the cause of failure.

It is my humble opinion that ANYTHING that can get it running cooler is a plus. Mine tended to run hotter then I would like here in south florida.
In my BMW E30 M3 race car I had an electric water pump. It was great. But it would require someone fabricating a block off plate for the old water pump opening.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

in my experiance any 2.2 that has never had the factory original head gasket replaced is due for one

I've always hated the o-e gasket because it rots at the water pasages and the slightest amount of excess heat & pressure in the cooling system can blow that rotted gasket out

mileage means absolutely nothing it's the time spent soaked in coolant that kills the gasket and this was an issue even back when the cars were only 5 years old

anything that helps prevent hot spots in the head has to be good if the engine still has an old gasket or a brand new one

the 4th cylinder mod may or may not be needed at some power level but the head gasket seal is first and formost the important thing as without it you've got nothing
'cept another tow truck bill

[player1up]

I have not torn mine apart yet. Working on putting the new one in. But I ,too, am curious to find the cause of failure.

It is my humble opinion that ANYTHING that can get it running cooler is a plus. Mine tended to run hotter then I would like here in south florida.
In my BMW E30 M3 race car I had an electric water pump. It was great. But it would require someone fabricating a block off plate for the old water pump opening.

Let us know what you find.

I agree that any help in the cooling department is a good thing


in my experiance any 2.2 that has never had the factory original head gasket replaced is due for one

I've always hated the o-e gasket because it rots at the water pasages and the slightest amount of excess heat & pressure in the cooling system can blow that rotted gasket out

mileage means absolutely nothing it's the time spent soaked in coolant that kills the gasket and this was an issue even back when the cars were only 5 years old

anything that helps prevent hot spots in the head has to be good if the engine still has an old gasket or a brand new one

the 4th cylinder mod may or may not be needed at some power level but the head gasket seal is first and formost the important thing as without it you've got nothing
'cept another tow truck bill

Head gasket and head studs are on the "to do" list. I suppose it would be better to do it before it blows...but the "while it's apart" factor is gonna hurt even more this time around...