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iTurbo
04-13-2015, 10:29 PM
Wondering what a good upgrade turbo would be for a modded Spirit R/T that currently has a T3/T4 50-trim that is running out of steam.

Currently the car has a stockish 3" downpipe and uses an ATP 50-trim T3/T04E 50 trim/stg 3 with .72 A/R "Cosworth" turbine housing (stock style) and stock TIII O2 housing. The car is ROCKING totally and we are pretty happy with it, but I'm not so sure this turbo will push much past 25 psi boost @ WOT. It uses a FWDP 'budget' intercooler upgrade and FWDP stage IV TIII SBEC. It was recently upgraded to 65 lb/hr fuel injectors and also has a methanol injection kit installed.

It would be nice to have a bolt-on option but it's looking more and more like a Holset and a new downpipe may be in order. I wonder if there is a larger T3/T4 hybrid that could be retrofitted easily or if it's Holset all the way at this point.

turbovanmanČ
04-13-2015, 11:14 PM
That turbo with the right mods will easily make power passed 30 psi.

If your really wanting an upgrade, HE351 or HX40 are good choices, plus changing compressor wheels is really easy, no balancing required AND there are tons of compressor wheels on the market.

4 l-bodies
04-14-2015, 01:58 AM
Yeah I agree Jeremy with Simon, that is enough turbo for 450-475 if pushed hard. 30 PSI should be within reach. Either that or you have a really good flowing Lotus head! Your budget intercooler could be robbing you of some boost due to larger than you think restriction. That TIII elbow isn't huge on the TIII's but it's a whole lot better than the 2.5" swingvalves the 8V engines received. I'm sure you could work the TIII elbow outlet some more. I had to do that with Quacks Masi IHI swingvalve. There wasn't a whole lot left of the original swingvalve after I got done with it.

glhs727
04-14-2015, 08:51 AM
Yeah I agree Jeremy with Simon, that is enough turbo for 450-475 if pushed hard. 30 PSI should be within reach. Either that or you have a really good flowing Lotus head! Your budget intercooler could be robbing you of some boost due to larger than you think restriction. That TIII elbow isn't huge on the TIII's but it's a whole lot better than the 2.5" swingvalves the 8V engines received. I'm sure you could work the TIII elbow outlet some more. I had to do that with Quacks Masi IHI swingvalve. There wasn't a whole lot left of the original swingvalve after I got done with it.

Comp turbo 5858 triple ball bearing.... that's what's going on my r/t next... I like the Holset I have on it now a lot, but want a quicker spool and broader power range for street use. luckily for me we are a comp turbo dealer!

Reaper1
04-14-2015, 02:27 PM
Comp turbo 5858 triple ball bearing.... that's what's going on my r/t next... I like the Holset I have on it now a lot, but want a quicker spool and broader power range for street use. luckily for me we are a comp turbo dealer!

PLEASE post up before/after of this with dyno plots that include rpm along with the details of the setup so a true comparison can be made.

OmniLuvr
04-19-2015, 10:37 PM
i turbo, do you have any idea the power you are making now? like any dyno figures? and what makes you think your running out of steam?

i think as mentioned before, a modified elbow/downpipe might help things out?

iTurbo
04-19-2015, 10:49 PM
i turbo, do you have any idea the power you are making now? like any dyno figures? and what makes you think your running out of steam?

i think as mentioned before, a modified elbow/downpipe might help things out?

It's not really my car anymore, but rather my old red Spirit R/T that is owned by a local friend now. He really took it to the next level after I sold it to him in pretty much stock form and added the T3/T04E, big intercooler, +40 injectors and SBEC etc etc...

He has had it turned up to 20 psi @ WOT for a while, but recently added a methanol injection kit from Snow Performance and TCS system from ND Performance. We don't have any dyno charts or track data, but he did say when he tried to turn it up recently it seemed to go up to 25 psi and start to fall back down again. That is with a grainger valve controller and an internal wastegate can from ATP.

The downpipe consists of a stockish 3" downpipe, but still uses a couple inches of the original 2.5" downpipe donut attached to the stock TIII O2 housing on the .72 A/R ATP turbine housing. It's probably the 2nd fastest car I've ever been in behind Jackson's green IROC R/T.

4 l-bodies
04-20-2015, 12:58 AM
Perhaps the wastegate actuator is just blowing open lowering boost? What lb spring is in actuator? How much preload? Ported wastegate hole? Sometimes the thin actuator brackets flex too. Before I would be investing in another $1000+ turbo I would make sure it's not something that simple. Easy enough to check.
BTW- Doesn't the stock Grainger valve run out of adjustment around 20 PSI, or did you put in a stiffer/second spring in it?
Todd

turbovanmanČ
04-20-2015, 01:30 PM
He could be running out of fuel, no way that turbo is done at 20 psi. Warren pushed that turbo into the 500 whp zone and many others have pushed it higher.

I'm with Todd, there are other issues at play here.

iTurbo
04-20-2015, 02:24 PM
Perhaps the wastegate actuator is just blowing open lowering boost? What lb spring is in actuator? How much preload? Ported wastegate hole? Sometimes the thin actuator brackets flex too. Before I would be investing in another $1000+ turbo I would make sure it's not something that simple. Easy enough to check.
BTW- Doesn't the stock Grainger valve run out of adjustment around 20 PSI, or did you put in a stiffer/second spring in it?
Todd

I will have to call ATP and verify the spring pressure in the actuator. The actuator bracket is ATP 'universal' 1/8" aluminum and quite sturdy so I doubt it's that, but I'll take a look at the preload.

He recently installed a set of 65 lb/hr injectors from FWDP and it's still running a bit rich if anything. He said he tried to raise the boost after installing the injectors and that's when it didn't seem to want to go above ~ 25 psi.

Reaper1
04-20-2015, 02:32 PM
Time to do some drive pressure checks and such. I bet there's more in that turbo and there's something in the system holding it back.

86Shelby
04-20-2015, 03:21 PM
FWIW on a very similar combo, I found that the old exhaust cutout on my R/T would cause the boost to raise by 6-7 psi when it was open. The rest of the exhuast was 3" mandrel bent pipe.

iTurbo
04-21-2015, 01:19 AM
FWIW on a very similar combo, I found that the old exhaust cutout on my R/T would cause the boost to raise by 6-7 psi when it was open. The rest of the exhuast was 3" mandrel bent pipe.

Wow! Aside from the stock 2.5" donut, this car has full 3" mandrel bent exhaust system from FWDP. No cat, and a straight thru Ultraflo muffler.

turbovanmanČ
04-21-2015, 01:23 AM
I ran the 50 trim on my van, 3" exhaust, thru a cat and 2 mufflers, had no problem making power at 30 psi.

Ondonti
04-21-2015, 06:11 AM
Until he confirms that the wastegate is not blowing open its not useful to worry about more extreme fixes.
If it is, then we have to look at the actuator AND any contributors to backpressure AND charge pipe restriction.
But, skipping to the next step.....

Who really cares what your boost pressure is. If the turbo ran out of compressor at 25psi, then he has a great flowing setup. I doubt this is the case.

Shadowv4l
04-21-2015, 08:13 PM
I'm running a T3/T4 50 trim with a 48 housing hogged out to a stage 3 wheel and running 24lbs with it. No meth and starts spool around 3200rpm and holds steady.

- - - Updated - - -

The car does run on the rich side of things, I would like to strap it to a dyno and get some numbers.

iTurbo
04-21-2015, 08:50 PM
Until he confirms that the wastegate is not blowing open its not useful to worry about more extreme fixes.
If it is, then we have to look at the actuator AND any contributors to backpressure AND charge pipe restriction.
But, skipping to the next step.....

Who really cares what your boost pressure is. If the turbo ran out of compressor at 25psi, then he has a great flowing setup. I doubt this is the case.

I think you guys are right. It's just a stock production TIII head with stock intake/TB, and a ported exhaust manifold. I think it has more huff in it yet...

iTurbo
04-21-2015, 09:31 PM
Anybody care to recommend a good spark plug for a big turbo/high boost TIII? It's been running NGK GR5 plugs for a while now with no issues at .025" gap, but from the sounds of it is beginning to blow the spark out now at WOT.

turbovanmanČ
04-21-2015, 10:03 PM
I used AR51's IIRC and BPR9EIX.

Ondonti
04-22-2015, 06:19 AM
Anybody care to recommend a good spark plug for a big turbo/high boost TIII? It's been running NGK GR5 plugs for a while now with no issues at .025" gap, but from the sounds of it is beginning to blow the spark out now at WOT.

I would always drop the gap to prove that is the issue.

Pat
04-22-2015, 08:36 AM
Agree...drop the gap to find out if that's your problem.

For reference, I run good old Champion RN9YC's on my T3's without issue. I've run these up to about the 500whp level and haven't found a reason to switch yet. I gap them typically at about .025".

OmniLuvr
04-22-2015, 08:45 PM
im wondering if you hav some sort of boost leak? maybe one was cause when swapping injectors?

ive been able to spike a turbo to 20 psi before but it would settle back to about 15 psi because the boost leak was bad enough before I found it, also seamed to surge a little bit too...

iTurbo
04-23-2015, 01:59 AM
Got a set of NGK BPR9EIX plugs for it today. Can you adjust the gap on these with the right tool? I have a set of the NGK iridium plugs in my Caliber SRT and I don't remember having to adjust the gap as they were perfect right out of the box. They've been in the car for the last 30k+ miles and have worked great.

We were going to run the Spirit R/T vs CSRT tonight but ran into an issue with the OEM TIII O2 housing studs falling out (again). The car does have some vibes due to the complete set of PB.com motor mounts. Is there a high temp thread locker that could work here? They are 10mm x 1.5 studs/nuts so I would think 40-50 ft lbs should do it.


Not sure on the possibility of a boost leak. I have a boost leak tester from siliconehoses.com and will have to check. We'll have to loosen the rocker shafts to check all the way to the intake valve though.

turbovanmanČ
04-23-2015, 02:10 AM
Yes, you can adjust the gap, use the gapping tool with the hole, you hook the ground electrode with that, DO NOT lever on the iridium tip, and pull up, increasing the gap. Then I tap the ground electrode on something solid to reset the gap to where I want it.

Reaper1
04-23-2015, 03:08 PM
As Simon has pointed out, setting the gap on iridium and platinum plugs can be done, however, it is not recommended to set the gaps on those plugs simply because of how fragile the small bits of the rare metals are. Part of the reason I only run copper plugs.

turbovanmanČ
04-23-2015, 04:36 PM
As Simon has pointed out, setting the gap on iridium and platinum plugs can be done, however, it is not recommended to set the gaps on those plugs simply because of how fragile the small bits of the rare metals are. Part of the reason I only run copper plugs.

I gap iridium all the time, just do it the way I suggested and you'll never have an issue, :p

iTurbo
04-29-2015, 01:17 AM
He got a Holset HX35W to replace the 50 trim T3/T4. I'm concerned about the divided T3ish turbine housing and also the very restrictive looking internal wastegate housing. I mean, sure, it will bolt up to the manifold..

The compressor housing outlet is V-band too. Firewall massaging/bashing in order? We already had to trim a little off the A568 to make the 50-trim fit. The compressor housing is larger than I imagined. It is similar to in physical size to a Garret T67 I have here. To give you an idea, the T67 comp housing is so big it uses 8 bolts to attach it to the back plate/center section. I haven't measure them but they are similar in diameter to a soccer ball at least.

turbovanmanČ
04-29-2015, 01:12 PM
Knife edge the divided housing.

Which one did he get? The 8 blade compressor wheel flows almost the same as a 50 trim so not much upgrade. Hopefully he has the 7 blade, its almost 60 lb/hr vs the 8 blade around 52 lbs, the 50 trim is 50 lbs from the info I've found.

Vigo
04-29-2015, 09:38 PM
Not a very big upgrade for the work required.

tman1999
04-30-2015, 12:34 AM
its a 7 blade one

turbovanmanČ
04-30-2015, 01:25 AM
A lot of work for not much gain.

Ondonti
04-30-2015, 04:18 AM
Not a very big upgrade for the work required.

Having a holset myself, I would never use one again. The extra work is not worth it. Its just a turbo. Its not magic. When you start having to buy billet parts and new housings, then the money savings is out the door too. I still can't even find a Vband that fits the He341. I missed the glory days when that stuff was around.

turbovanmanČ
04-30-2015, 01:13 PM
I still can't even find a Vband that fits the He341. I missed the glory days when that stuff was around.

Talk to Shadow and others, they found V bands.

Ondonti
05-02-2015, 06:46 AM
Talk to Shadow and others, they found V bands.

The market for this stuff dried up.
Looks like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HE351-turbo-flange-amp-adapts-fit-HX40-Dodge-Cummins-s300-/280422955270?_trksid=p2054897.l4275#ht_3517wt_1124

I would just cut off one side.

Could work, this was not available (not being produced) the last few times i have looked over the years. Probably takes a custom order and they make a couple.

OmniLuvr
05-02-2015, 02:33 PM
^ and thats without the clamp i think? but it linked to another at the bottom of the page for $91, that seams dang pricey. im wondering if you can just get a stock downpipe and clamp? my friend does diesel exhausts all the time, im sure he has a couple extras laying around...

iTurbo
05-02-2015, 02:40 PM
Well what do you guys think about this?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-061&Category_Code=TBN

It's a 61mm compressor/stg III turbo. That means we could reuse the current stg III .72 A/R Cosworth housing and keep the downpipe keeping fabrication to a minimum. The final cost on the turbo should be substantially less than the price listed since he won't need the turbine housing.

turbovanmanČ
05-02-2015, 08:43 PM
Honestly Jeremy, he hasn't even tapped out his 50trim, so why is he going bigger?

iTurbo
05-02-2015, 09:06 PM
Ha I totally agree Simon. Speed is addictive though. I told him if he wants much more he's going to be looking at upgrading manifolds and intercooler and an external gate setup.

He's already beaten quite a few high HP "new" cars on the highway. If it were still my car I would work on dialing in the TCS system perfectly. The new drag radials helped a lot though.

sl3196
05-02-2015, 11:41 PM
Ha I totally agree Simon. Speed is addictive though. I told him if he wants much more he's going to be looking at upgrading manifolds and intercooler and an external gate setup.

He's already beaten quite a few high HP "new" cars on the highway. If it were still my car I would work on dialing in the TCS system perfectly. The new drag radials helped a lot though. I agree with ya there jeremy!

iTurbo
05-03-2015, 12:49 AM
I agree with ya there jeremy!

Don't get me wrong....I'm quite sure the Spirit R/T will roast the Caliber SRT alive at this point. Aside from dialing in the TCS, I would redo the intercooler piping. We've tried to race but failed twice because of blown piping or other problems.

If he saw the craftsmanship in the various TIII powered cars at the last SDAC, then it would be worth it. I don't mean to sound like a jerk but my first attempt at a BIG intercooler in my SL was not that good either and I wouldn't want to post pictures of it. Just saying. His setup has a lot left in it even with the 50-trim.

Ondonti
05-03-2015, 06:17 AM
^ and thats without the clamp i think? but it linked to another at the bottom of the page for $91, that seams dang pricey. im wondering if you can just get a stock downpipe and clamp? my friend does diesel exhausts all the time, im sure he has a couple extras laying around...

There is a 96 dollar one but the Vband clamp looks aftermarket so I wouldn't trust that........

I don't know how weldable the stock flange/downpipe is. I would love one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXHAUST-ELBOW-AND-CLAMP-FOR-4036835-HE351CW-TURBOCHARGER-/281677569995?hash=item41954a9fcb&vxp=mtr#ht_25wt_1261
Refurbished downpipes and clamps.

Seems like the stuff on ebay for He351's is way up from what it was. Maybe a few new sellers are on there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-5-9-Common-rail-24-Valve-HE-351-Turbo-exhaust-flange-100-MADE-IN-USA-/350748741550?hash=item51aa410fae&vxp=mtr#ht_1561wt_3434

Ondonti
05-03-2015, 06:43 AM
Well what do you guys think about this?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-061&Category_Code=TBN

It's a 61mm compressor/stg III turbo. That means we could reuse the current stg III .72 A/R Cosworth housing and keep the downpipe keeping fabrication to a minimum. The final cost on the turbo should be substantially less than the price listed since he won't need the turbine housing.

Why wouldn't you just ship them your current turbo and have them upgrade the compressor wheel and modify the cover?

turbovanmanČ
05-03-2015, 02:32 PM
There is a 96 dollar one but the Vband clamp looks aftermarket so I wouldn't trust that........

I don't know how weldable the stock flange/downpipe is. I would love one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXHAUST-ELBOW-AND-CLAMP-FOR-4036835-HE351CW-TURBOCHARGER-/281677569995?hash=item41954a9fcb&vxp=mtr#ht_25wt_1261
Refurbished downpipes and clamps.

Seems like the stuff on ebay for He351's is way up from what it was. Maybe a few new sellers are on there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-5-9-Common-rail-24-Valve-HE-351-Turbo-exhaust-flange-100-MADE-IN-USA-/350748741550?hash=item51aa410fae&vxp=mtr#ht_1561wt_3434

I have a few of those cast elbows, you can have one if you want, pay for shipping and next time I am down, buy me lunch, :p


Why wouldn't you just ship them your current turbo and have them upgrade the compressor wheel and modify the cover?

Agreed. :nod:

iTurbo
05-05-2015, 05:06 AM
I will mention it to him because just changing the compressor could be cost-effective. But serisouly, Simon didn't you have a bad experience with the T04E 60-trim? What kind of comp wheel would you guys suggest?

The 61mm wheel seems to be good for at least 500 WHP @ 30 psi as evidenced by Larry's dyno video (a Precision 6152S). However, I remember getting a ride in Jackson's green IROC R/T last SDAC and it was terrrifyling fast at 40 psi. I think it was a Holset HE 341? I mean jesus that car scared the ---- out of me scorching the tires at over 100 MPH!

Ondonti
05-05-2015, 06:12 AM
I will mention it to him because just changing the compressor could be cost-effective. But serisouly, Simon didn't you have a bad experience with the T04E 60-trim? What kind of comp wheel would you guys suggest?

The 61mm wheel seems to be good for at least 500 WHP @ 30 psi as evidenced by Larry's dyno video (a Precision 6152S). However, I remember getting a ride in Jackson's green IROC R/T last SDAC and it was terrrifyling fast at 40 psi. I think it was a Holset HE 341? I mean jesus that car scared the ---- out of me scorching the tires at over 100 MPH!

60 trim To4e was known to have surging problems on 2.4L heads, especially because people tended to combine it with small turbine housings/wheels (like a .48 stage II with 60 trim kinda setup). 60 trim doesn't have a very forgiving compressor map. The 50 trim is a very versatile compressor wheel that doesn't need to be as well matched.

He341's are underwhelming. Really needs the larger compressor wheel.

Pat
05-05-2015, 08:24 AM
60 trim To4e was known to have surging problems on 2.4L heads, especially because people tended to combine it with small turbine housings/wheels (like a .48 stage II with 60 trim kinda setup). 60 trim doesn't have a very forgiving compressor map. The 50 trim is a very versatile compressor wheel that doesn't need to be as well matched.

He341's are underwhelming. Really needs the larger compressor wheel.

I admit, I haven't read the whole thread but I'll share my thoughts. Upgrading from the tried and true 50 trim is difficult. There are options out there, but it seems to me that once you go more than the 50trim or a 50trim like turbo, you start to get into the area where you are making a switch from a strong general purpose turbo that gives good power even down low and in the mid range to something that really starts to push the power band to the right. I have a hard time moving away from a 50 trim only because for the money, it's still a ridiculously good turbo that when set up right can do 400+ on our motors. My best pass on just boost with a stock T3 motor with a mild cal in a somewhat lightened Shadow was 10.97 @ 129.99 on a 50 trim stage 3. With a better motor set up, I'm sure it could have done better (as Warren has shown!), but bang for the buck, I think that's hard to beat.

I'm sure that there are other turbos out there now that can keep a similar torque curve down low while picking up more up top, but how much you'd spend to get that is really dependent on what you're trying to achieve with the car.

On a similar topic, Brent, I'm curious on your thoughts on the HE341?

contraption22
05-05-2015, 08:35 AM
I re-skimmed through the thread, but are there any track or dyno numbers for this car available to indicate if the the 50trim has come close to it's full potential?

I'll echo Pat's thoughts on the 50 trim. It's really a good turbo for a dual purpose car. Once you go bigger than that, you really start to move farther away from pleasant street manners.... unless you start looking at more expensive options, like the GTX series Garretts.

Shadow
05-05-2015, 10:30 AM
i will mention it to him because just changing the compressor could be cost-effective. But serisouly, simon didn't you have a bad experience with the t04e 60-trim? What kind of comp wheel would you guys suggest?

The 61mm wheel seems to be good for at least 500 whp @ 30 psi as evidenced by larry's dyno video (a precision 6152s). However, i remember getting a ride in jackson's green iroc r/t last sdac and it was terrrifyling fast at 40 psi. I think it was a holset he 341? I mean jesus that car scared the ---- out of me scorching the tires at over 100 mph!

he351 ;)

turbovanmanČ
05-05-2015, 02:36 PM
I will mention it to him because just changing the compressor could be cost-effective. But serisouly, Simon didn't you have a bad experience with the T04E 60-trim? What kind of comp wheel would you guys suggest?

The 61mm wheel seems to be good for at least 500 WHP @ 30 psi as evidenced by Larry's dyno video (a Precision 6152S). However, I remember getting a ride in Jackson's green IROC R/T last SDAC and it was terrrifyling fast at 40 psi. I think it was a Holset HE 341? I mean jesus that car scared the ---- out of me scorching the tires at over 100 MPH!

Yes, the 60 trim surged badly. The 50 trim is a good turbo, I was happy with it until it let go. I didn't like the lag though, would have like to have put a .48 housing on the stage III wheel.

The HE351 is bigger, 60mm compressor wheel, seems to be a good turbo, not as much lag and stupid top end. I think DJ maxed his out at 550 whp. I would like to try one but sold all mine, but looks like I am going to put a GTX35R on, I am basically being given one and run a .63 housing.

Ondonti
05-06-2015, 04:24 AM
I admit, I haven't read the whole thread but I'll share my thoughts. Upgrading from the tried and true 50 trim is difficult. There are options out there, but it seems to me that once you go more than the 50trim or a 50trim like turbo, you start to get into the area where you are making a switch from a strong general purpose turbo that gives good power even down low and in the mid range to something that really starts to push the power band to the right. I have a hard time moving away from a 50 trim only because for the money, it's still a ridiculously good turbo that when set up right can do 400+ on our motors. My best pass on just boost with a stock T3 motor with a mild cal in a somewhat lightened Shadow was 10.97 @ 129.99 on a 50 trim stage 3. With a better motor set up, I'm sure it could have done better (as Warren has shown!), but bang for the buck, I think that's hard to beat.

I'm sure that there are other turbos out there now that can keep a similar torque curve down low while picking up more up top, but how much you'd spend to get that is really dependent on what you're trying to achieve with the car.

On a similar topic, Brent, I'm curious on your thoughts on the HE341?

The problem with the newer turbos is the people installing them. When you compare the modern turbos at the same size, expecting both spool improvements AND more power, you will be disappointed. What I have seen from a lot of these turbos is that they make a lot more power at the same size, but people's egos probably lead them to feel like they still have to go bigger when upgrading to a higher end turbo. This is just wrong. If you want more power, get the same size. If you want faster spool but the same power, get a smaller modern turbo. Also, many of the improvements of billet turbos are in the ability to create higher pressure ratios, so if you were not maxing out the pressure ratio of the old turbos, you don't care much about that beyond a few pitiful points of efficiency improvement (a few degrees cooler charge).


The He341....it doesn't feel balanced.

To be honest, I don't know what my dinosaur cast pt6765 feels like at sea level, just high elevation, but on a stock 3.0 longblock the he341 at sea level only feels a little bit quicker to turn on, and its MUCH MUCH smaller. I think even the dyno shows this. 56mm is not a small turbo but IMO it should feel night and day different from a 67mm compressor 65mm t4 turbine. It doesn't.

On an Hx40 turbo I had done work on the turbine housing but I feel like doing that would be pointless on an He341 due to the small compressor wheel. I think the 60mm wheel would probably function a lot better, which is probably why they changed the compressor wheel on the He351 and left the turbine side alone for quite a few years of production. I think I am kinda stuck with the He341 on my daily because its compressor housing has that quick 90 degree on it that let me keep the stock battery location.
They sell up to 72mm billet wheels for he341 and he351 covers but those turbos are all about high pressure ratios IMO and a lot of them require center section machining. It does seem like there are some larger turbine wheel options but what I read was very vague. That would be cool for people pushing the He351. Spending all that extra money on a "cheap" turbo kills the cheap part. You can get journal bearing billet turbos without the hassle or odd parts availability + off the wall custom parts suppliers.

If I summarized my thoughts on the He341, I would simply say that it doesn't move enough air per revolution for how much energy it takes to spin up. Not sure if the he351 60mm has the same exducer because that would mean the wheels weigh almost the same but one moves way more air with the same effort on the turbine wheel.

turbovanmanČ
05-06-2015, 11:50 AM
If I summarized my thoughts on the He341, I would simply say that it doesn't move enough air per revolution for how much energy it takes to spin up. Not sure if the he351 60mm has the same exducer because that would mean the wheels weigh almost the same but one moves way more air with the same effort on the turbine wheel.
A/R- 0.65
Compressor inducer- 60mm
Compressor exducer- 84.582mm
Compressor trim- 54
Turbine inducer- 65mm
Turbine exducer- 58mm
Turbine trim- 80

The super HX40 is 60x86 which is what compressor wheel I run in my diesel van. The HE341 is the same as the 351, just a 56x76 compressor wheel, so upgrading to the larger comp wheel is pretty easy. I went from a HX35 7 blade-same size as the 341 wheel, to the hx super 40 wheel. The difference was quite dramatic and very noticeable, even over a factory 56mm billet wheel, which was noticeable over the 56mm HX35/341 wheel.

Ondonti
05-06-2015, 11:52 AM
A/R- 0.65
Compressor inducer- 60mm
Compressor exducer- 84.582mm
Compressor trim- 54
Turbine inducer- 65mm
Turbine exducer- 58mm
Turbine trim- 80

The super HX40 is 60x86 which is what compressor wheel I run in my diesel van. The HE341 is the same as the 351, just a 56x76 compressor wheel, so upgrading to the larger comp wheel is pretty easy. I went from a HX35 7 blade-same size as the 341 wheel, to the hx super 40 wheel. The difference was quite dramatic and very noticeable, even over a factory 56mm billet wheel, which was noticeable over the 56mm HX35/341 wheel.
Sounds like you have a 56mm billet wheel to ship me.

turbovanmanČ
05-06-2015, 11:58 AM
Sounds like you have a 56mm billet wheel to ship me.

LOL, why? The HX40 wheel is miles better and they are dirt cheap on Ebay.

Send me your cover and I'll get it machined. I'll dig up the size of my billet wheel, I believe its 56x84 but gotta double check.

I have a 66x86mm wheel to try, :eyebrows:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/Picture119_zps95c0b97b.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/turbovanman/media/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/Picture119_zps95c0b97b.jpg.html)

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/IMG_4057_zpsd9e1295b.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/turbovanman/media/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/IMG_4057_zpsd9e1295b.jpg.html)

Ondonti
05-08-2015, 12:11 PM
LOL, why? The HX40 wheel is miles better and they are dirt cheap on Ebay.

Send me your cover and I'll get it machined. I'll dig up the size of my billet wheel, I believe its 56x84 but gotta double check.

I have a 66x86mm wheel to try, :eyebrows:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/Picture119_zps95c0b97b.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/turbovanman/media/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/Picture119_zps95c0b97b.jpg.html)

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/IMG_4057_zpsd9e1295b.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/turbovanman/media/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/IMG_4057_zpsd9e1295b.jpg.html)

Why can't you support my quest for a lazy no machine work upgrade :(
Driving my wife's car in the summer waiting on Canada would be a challenge.

iTurbo
05-10-2015, 01:50 AM
Thanks for all the thoughts/info/opinions. I do appreciate it because I am also building another Spirit R/T of my own. It's my white R/T that is getting a 2.5L shortblock and will start out with a GN turbo. We can discuss that later.

The red Spirit R/T spools up just fine even with 50-trim/stg III and a .72 A/R turbine housing. Surprised the hell out of me but it is very driveable and dynamite on the street. He hasn't taken it to the track or a dyno as far as I know. I don't think he has taken the boost much above ~20 psi @ WOT either. It's running a grainger valve controller that I made. I had a local machine shop rebuild the cylinder head (stock) with Ti valve spring retainers and I build the shortblock myself in our shop at work. I'm just flabergasted at how fast this car has become already, especially being it's the first block I had ever built.




In it's last incarnation, this car was sporting a LWP ported exhaust manifold, stock turbo, LWP stage I cams, and an A568/A523 hybrid trans with OBX LSD and a 3.50 final drive. The performance back then was pure dogshit compared to what it is now. It's just amazing how far this car has come. Going back to a stock A568 and stock cams and the 50-trim have yielded serious benefits. It has stock cam gears as well now, rather than all the monkyeing around with the adjustable gears I tried so hard to dial in before.

turbovanmanČ
05-10-2015, 02:51 PM
Why can't you support my quest for a lazy no machine work upgrade :(
Driving my wife's car in the summer waiting on Canada would be a challenge.

You'd be down a couple weeks, it will man you up, :p

Ondonti
05-10-2015, 04:11 PM
Thanks for all the thoughts/info/opinions. I do appreciate it because I am also building another Spirit R/T of my own. It's my white R/T that is getting a 2.5L shortblock and will start out with a GN turbo. We can discuss that later.

The red Spirit R/T spools up just fine even with 50-trim/stg III and a .72 A/R turbine housing. Surprised the hell out of me but it is very driveable and dynamite on the street. He hasn't taken it to the track or a dyno as far as I know. I don't think he has taken the boost much above ~20 psi @ WOT either. It's running a grainger valve controller that I made. I had a local machine shop rebuild the cylinder head (stock) with Ti valve spring retainers and I build the shortblock myself in our shop at work. I'm just flabergasted at how fast this car has become already, especially being it's the first block I had ever built.




In it's last incarnation, this car was sporting a LWP ported exhaust manifold, stock turbo, LWP stage I cams, and an A568/A523 hybrid trans with OBX LSD and a 3.50 final drive. The performance back then was pure dogshit compared to what it is now. It's just amazing how far this car has come. Going back to a stock A568 and stock cams and the 50-trim have yielded serious benefits. It has stock cam gears as well now, rather than all the monkyeing around with the adjustable gears I tried so hard to dial in before.

Very few people with 3.50 swapped transmissions understand why they are doing it. They are going the wrong way, especially on a high reving motor. Your car would have to be really slow to have the swap to 3.50 gears help your 1st gear traction.
People really seem to obsess about 1st gear. Me, I just shift. :confused2:

If you want a really really fun transmission, get a 3.50 transmission and put 3.85 ratio into it.

OmniLuvr
05-10-2015, 04:33 PM
In it's last incarnation, this car was sporting a LWP ported exhaust manifold, stock turbo, LWP stage I cams, and an A568/A523 hybrid trans with OBX LSD and a 3.50 final drive. The performance back then was pure dogshit compared to what it is now

was it a 2.2 or a 2.5 then? could be a big difference... and did you ever check for a boost leak yet to figure out the pressure problem? ;) it might not even need a turbo yet...

turbovanmanČ
05-10-2015, 05:57 PM
Very few people with 3.50 swapped transmissions understand why they are doing it. They are going the wrong way, especially on a high reving motor. Your car would have to be really slow to have the swap to 3.50 gears help your 1st gear traction.
People really seem to obsess about 1st gear. Me, I just shift. :confused2:

If you want a really really fun transmission, get a 3.50 transmission and put 3.85 ratio into it.

Mines going to be a screamer again but I want decent highway cruising rpm. I can put up with it being a bit off a dog around town.

Ondonti
05-10-2015, 06:35 PM
Mines going to be a screamer again but I want decent highway cruising rpm. I can put up with it being a bit off a dog around town.

The difference between 3.77 3.85 and the 3.5 on final gear is .01 for 5th gears and its only 3-4mph different, or like 100-200 rpms. Even with 22" tires I don't know what 3000 rpms sounds like on a normal 10mph over on the freeway drive to work. You had a 3 speed and fluffy converter and now rpms is a problem :yuck: Kinda like how I tried to save 1 mpg by lean burning at cruise and saved 20 dollars in fuel over a year then nuked a motor on a hill by accidentally getting into part throttle boost in closed loop.

turbovanmanČ
05-10-2015, 07:31 PM
The difference between 3.77 3.85 and the 3.5 on final gear is .01 for 5th gears and its only 3-4mph different, or like 100-200 rpms. Even with 22" tires I don't know what 3000 rpms sounds like on a normal 10mph over on the freeway drive to work. You had a 3 speed and fluffy converter and now rpms is a problem :yuck: Kinda like how I tried to save 1 mpg by lean burning at cruise and saved 20 dollars in fuel over a year then nuked a motor on a hill by accidentally getting into part throttle boost in closed loop.

LOL, true. Guess I"ll look up the ratio's and see.

Wow, didn't realize how close they really are. At 1:1 3rd gear, easier to figure out, there is a measly 80 rpm difference between a 3:50 vs 3:85 final drive.

Edit, at 65 mph. :p

Ondonti
05-11-2015, 06:25 AM
LOL, true. Guess I"ll look up the ratio's and see.

Wow, didn't realize how close they really are. At 1:1 3rd gear, easier to figure out, there is a measly 80 rpm difference between a 3:50 vs 3:85 final drive.

I was over 80mph at 3 grand on 22" tires tonight. Pure 3.50 box. I don't want to do gears anymore now that Frank killed his website :(

Dan15
05-11-2015, 11:33 AM
LOL, why? The HX40 wheel is miles better and they are dirt cheap on Ebay.

Send me your cover and I'll get it machined. I'll dig up the size of my billet wheel, I believe its 56x84 but gotta double check.

I have a 66x86mm wheel to try, :eyebrows:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/Picture119_zps95c0b97b.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/turbovanman/media/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/Picture119_zps95c0b97b.jpg.html)

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/IMG_4057_zpsd9e1295b.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/turbovanman/media/Diesel%20van%20turbo%20install%20pics/IMG_4057_zpsd9e1295b.jpg.html)
Searching quickly on eBay there are a lot of different options for sizes. Some as cheap as $30 but idk if I wanna trust that cheap of wheel on my turbo ha. Also, what's the pricing involved in getting the cover machined?

Dan15
05-11-2015, 12:44 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/11/7e9e5937526a40f60bf2175574aad566.jpg

This is the one I've seen. Also, Billet wheels are a bit pricier. Are they worth it?

turbovanmanČ
05-11-2015, 12:49 PM
Billet wheels, the aftermarket ones, are only good for higher boost pressures. I tried a billet 60mm wheel, extended tip at 18 psi, it was laggier and just didn't have the snap of the regular 60mm cast wheel. Now if you were running 25+ psi, the billet one will shine, but for my setup and others with a similar setup, they aren't worth it. The factory billet wheel is designed different and worked great over the stock HX35 7 blade wheel.

Some of the chinese cast wheels are fine but a little more digging, you can find real HOlset 60mm wheels for around $60, and for higher boost applications, worth it.

Cover machining is around $85 plus shipping.

Vigo
05-11-2015, 02:22 PM
I have a 3.85 523 in my old van and with van-size tires the highway rpm was totally unobjectionable.

I think for me the main thing about swapping gears is stretching 3rd gear because it's really useful for WOT highway passing. I don't like cars where at 70 mph you have to pick between being at a low rpm in 4th or only getting 10 more mph in 3rd.

I never cared about that until I got a car with a 110mph 3rd gear.

Vigo
05-11-2015, 02:28 PM
Wow, didn't realize how close they really are. At 1:1 3rd gear, easier to figure out, there is a measly 80 rpm difference between a 3:50 vs 3:85 final drive.

Maybe at idle! The rpm gap gets bigger with vehicle speed. Since 3.85 is exactly 10% more than 3.5, you can figure out the difference at any road speed pretty easily. If you're at 2500 with 3.5 add 10% = 250 and you're at 2750 at the same road speed with 3.85 assuming the same gear ratio is used.

turbovanmanČ
05-11-2015, 05:11 PM
Nope at 65 mph.

Force Fed Mopar
05-11-2015, 05:59 PM
With my 568/523 hybrid with 3.77 FD, 80mph = 3k rpm. 205/60/15's.

Ondonti
05-11-2015, 09:02 PM
Billet wheels, the aftermarket ones, are only good for higher boost pressures. I tried a billet 60mm wheel, extended tip at 18 psi, it was laggier and just didn't have the snap of the regular 60mm cast wheel. Now if you were running 25+ psi, the billet one will shine, but for my setup and others with a similar setup, they aren't worth it. The factory billet wheel is designed different and worked great over the stock HX35 7 blade wheel.

Some of the chinese cast wheels are fine but a little more digging, you can find real HOlset 60mm wheels for around $60, and for higher boost applications, worth it.

Cover machining is around $85 plus shipping.

A well designed billet wheel should do everything better. This shows that they are just some random wheel thrown together..........I would also not be looking at an OEM billet but an aftermarket billet that has a smaller mass around the nut (more flowpath) and improved geometry.


I have a 3.85 523 in my old van and with van-size tires the highway rpm was totally unobjectionable.

I think for me the main thing about swapping gears is stretching 3rd gear because it's really useful for WOT highway passing. I don't like cars where at 70 mph you have to pick between being at a low rpm in 4th or only getting 10 more mph in 3rd.

I never cared about that until I got a car with a 110mph 3rd gear.

So we went from 80 rpms to 10% to 10mph.....
Top of 3rd at redline is quite enough for me. Maybe because stock turbo setups are gutless at 6200 rpms? Stock 3.0 flatlines HP to redline with a turbo.
Stock 3.0 will also highway pass in 5th gear at part throttle....if you needed a 2 lane road overtake, 4th would be more than enough. I don't know any 2 lanes where you have to pass at 85mph in 3rd.
With 22" tires 4th only does a little over 110mph :P while my Duster will do that in 3rd with big tires.

This all sounds a bit more like racing justified by saying its highway passing.

turbovanmanČ
05-11-2015, 09:12 PM
A well designed billet wheel should do everything better. This shows that they are just some random wheel thrown together..........I would also not be looking at an OEM billet but an aftermarket billet that has a smaller mass around the nut (more flowpath) and improved geometry.

True to a point, they do work well but at higher boost levels. Search around, that's the consensus on most aftermarket billet wheels. Look at the GT35R vs GTX35R, same deal, until you go passed 25 psi, they are pretty well equal.

Ondonti
05-11-2015, 09:22 PM
True to a point, they do work well but at higher boost levels. Search around, that's the consensus on most aftermarket billet wheels. Look at the GT35R vs GTX35R, same deal, until you go passed 25 psi, they are pretty well equal.

Compressor maps speak for themselves. Its a straight up "bigger" wheel. The surge line is farther to the right and so is the maximum potential flow.
You are looking at 5-10 PPH less flow at the same boost at the same efficiency. To say a turbo is behaving the same would be saying that you were perfectly matched for a smaller wheel and moving to the "bigger" billet wheel moved you out of the wheelhouse. The fact that the "larger" billet wheel is combined with the same turbine wheel is also a bit tricky as that changes the balance of the setup. The big boys are upgrading the turbine wheels. Boy racers are throwing parts at their car and wondering why it doesn't work.

Also, if someone buys an "extended tip" compressor wheel when they don't need more boost but want more flow, they bought the wrong compressor wheel. They will just get more lag. They want more inducer and the same exducer.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/performance_maps/714568-allcomp.jpg

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/performance_maps/GTX3582R-comp.jpg

Ondonti
05-11-2015, 09:46 PM
I just found billet wheels with the following profiles


67x84mm (lower boost, higher flow, lighter) 119 Grams vs Stock 60 x 86 147 Grams!

63x99mm (high boost, less flow, heavy) Light Weight Billet 169 Grams, This is an HX50 Billet Wheel Machined to Install on the HE and HX series turbochargers


67mm x 89mm x 95mm (145 grams compared to Factory 147 grams and 60mm x 86mm)







Stock wheels

54x78 he341 (combined with a 58x70 turbine wheel)
56x78 he341 (combined with a 58x70 turbine wheel)

60x86 He351 (combined with a 58x70 turbine wheel)

People are using the larger Turbine Shaft: 67mm x 76mm for the bigger wheels....

Dan15
05-11-2015, 10:30 PM
Comp turbo 5858 triple ball bearing.... that's what's going on my r/t next... I like the Holset I have on it now a lot, but want a quicker spool and broader power range for street use. luckily for me we are a comp turbo dealer!

Are you running the HE351? I assume so but just wanted to double check. And is it stock wheels still? Also, is it internally or externally gated?


That turbo with the right mods will easily make power passed 30 psi.

If your really wanting an upgrade, HE351 or HX40 are good choices, plus changing compressor wheels is really easy, no balancing required AND there are tons of compressor wheels on the market.

So no balancing required... would that also apply to an HE341 that has a wheel to basically become the same as an HE351?




He341's are underwhelming. Really needs the larger compressor wheel.


he351 ;)


Yes, the 60 trim surged badly. The 50 trim is a good turbo, I was happy with it until it let go. I didn't like the lag though, would have like to have put a .48 housing on the stage III wheel.

The HE351 is bigger, 60mm compressor wheel, seems to be a good turbo, not as much lag and stupid top end. I think DJ maxed his out at 550 whp. I would like to try one but sold all mine, but looks like I am going to put a GTX35R on, I am basically being given one and run a .63 housing.


So from everything being said here it's sounding like the HE351 completely blows away the HE341 when put on a T3? I currently have a HE341 that has been clocked and has the wastegate hole ported. But I also have a chance to buy a HE351 for $250. So is there any point buying the 351 or should I just buy the larger compressor wheel for my 341?

Then also comparing the HE351 to a 50 trim, sounds like the 50 trim is a really fun street turbo. But it's hard to justify that much money for a 50 trim when I already have the HE341. There is a Precision Ball Bearing 50 trim with low miles for $450 but again that's $450 I could spend on a custom intake manifold, etc, etc,...

Any opinions would be great. I know Cindy, Shadow and Simon have a lot of experience with T3's and different turbos as well as Brent has played with them for a while it sounds like. Thanks for the help guys.

- Daniel

Ondonti
05-11-2015, 10:34 PM
You could run the he341 for awhile and swap to he351 later if you wanted. The difference is the compressor outlet. If you don't want to redo your intercooler routing and piping, choose the one you want now.

Dan15
05-11-2015, 10:47 PM
But what about the larger compressor wheel option? It'd be about $150 and I'd have all the benefits of the HE351 right? What's the difference? They look super similar in the pictures.

turbovanmanČ
05-12-2015, 02:25 AM
I just found billet wheels with the following profiles


67x84mm (lower boost, higher flow, lighter) 119 Grams vs Stock 60 x 86 147 Grams!

63x99mm (high boost, less flow, heavy) Light Weight Billet 169 Grams, This is an HX50 Billet Wheel Machined to Install on the HE and HX series turbochargers


67mm x 89mm x 95mm (145 grams compared to Factory 147 grams and 60mm x 86mm)







Stock wheels

54x78 he341 (combined with a 58x70 turbine wheel)
56x78 he341 (combined with a 58x70 turbine wheel)

60x86 He351 (combined with a 58x70 turbine wheel)

People are using the larger Turbine Shaft: 67mm x 76mm for the bigger wheels....

Your missing one more, the one I posted above, its a 66x86 11 blade billet HX40 wheel.

You are right about inducer, exducer lag etc, just playing around with compressor wheels, its super easy to change on my diesel van and neat to see how each reacts. So far, the 7 blade HX40 60x86mm wheel has worked the best for my combo. Has the best off idle boost, midrange and pulls like a mofo. Not sure if I'll try the 66 combo but that's going to have to wait until I build my new engine.



Are you running the HE351? I assume so but just wanted to double check. And is it stock wheels still? Also, is it internally or externally gated?



So no balancing required... would that also apply to an HE341 that has a wheel to basically become the same as an HE351?








So from everything being said here it's sounding like the HE351 completely blows away the HE341 when put on a T3? I currently have a HE341 that has been clocked and has the wastegate hole ported. But I also have a chance to buy a HE351 for $250. So is there any point buying the 351 or should I just buy the larger compressor wheel for my 341?

Then also comparing the HE351 to a 50 trim, sounds like the 50 trim is a really fun street turbo. But it's hard to justify that much money for a 50 trim when I already have the HE341. There is a Precision Ball Bearing 50 trim with low miles for $450 but again that's $450 I could spend on a custom intake manifold, etc, etc,...

Any opinions would be great. I know Cindy, Shadow and Simon have a lot of experience with T3's and different turbos as well as Brent has played with them for a while it sounds like. Thanks for the help guys.

- Daniel

No balancing required, Holset is nice that they balance each piece by themselves.


But what about the larger compressor wheel option? It'd be about $150 and I'd have all the benefits of the HE351 right? What's the difference? They look super similar in the pictures.

If I was in your shoes, I'd either sell the HE341 and buy an HE351 or simply upgrade the compressor wheel. I think you're wasting time putting the 341 on a TIII.

turbovanmanČ
05-12-2015, 04:02 AM
Here you go guys, 60mm compressor housing-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-5-9-L-Ram-2004-2007-Holset-HE351CW-Turbo-Charger-Compressor-Housing-/291447977749?hash=item43dba73715&vxp=mtr

Ondonti
05-12-2015, 06:39 AM
Your missing one more, the one I posted above, its a 66x86 11 blade billet HX40 wheel.

You are right about inducer, exducer lag etc, just playing around with compressor wheels, its super easy to change on my diesel van and neat to see how each reacts. So far, the 7 blade HX40 60x86mm wheel has worked the best for my combo. Has the best off idle boost, midrange and pulls like a mofo. Not sure if I'll try the 66 combo but that's going to have to wait until I build my new engine.




No balancing required, Holset is nice that they balance each piece by themselves.



If I was in your shoes, I'd either sell the HE341 and buy an HE351 or simply upgrade the compressor wheel. I think you're wasting time putting the 341 on a TIII.

I think the 67x84 would be the best for a gasoline motor but the sale add is sketchy. Its not clear if this wheel really belongs in a holset.

What turbine wheel does your van have? This search kinda depressed me because I didn't know the He341 compressor wheel was so much lighter (small exducer) than the He351. No free lunch again :( If there was an upgrade that kept the small exducer, like a 60x78, that would be pretty choice. At least for a 3.0L of displacement.

turbovanmanČ
05-12-2015, 01:20 PM
I think the 67x84 would be the best for a gasoline motor but the sale add is sketchy. Its not clear if this wheel really belongs in a holset.

What turbine wheel does your van have? This search kinda depressed me because I didn't know the He341 compressor wheel was so much lighter (small exducer) than the He351. No free lunch again If there was an upgrade that kept the small exducer, like a 60x78, that would be pretty choice. At least for a 3.0L of displacement.

I think a few of the wheels are modified larger frame wheels, which is fine as they are made from scratch and I was told only a few companies do the machining.

Its an HX35 hot side, 12cm housing.

Dan15
05-12-2015, 03:51 PM
If I was in your shoes, I'd either sell the HE341 and buy an HE351 or simply upgrade the compressor wheel. I think you're wasting time putting the 341 on a TIII.

Right. After reading through here I wasn't ever considering just the HE341. It was either gonna be an upgraded wheel HE341 or the HE351. But this deal for the HE351 is so good it would hardly be anymore money then doing everything necessary to make the HE341 as good. Probably just end up going with the HE351.

Concerning the HE351, I was reading in some old threads where Brent had ported the wastegate hole (I understand this) as well as the turbine housing? What is ported in the turbine housing and what is the purpose?

Ondonti
05-13-2015, 06:03 AM
Right. After reading through here I wasn't ever considering just the HE341. It was either gonna be an upgraded wheel HE341 or the HE351. But this deal for the HE351 is so good it would hardly be anymore money then doing everything necessary to make the HE341 as good. Probably just end up going with the HE351.

Concerning the HE351, I was reading in some old threads where Brent had ported the wastegate hole (I understand this) as well as the turbine housing? What is ported in the turbine housing and what is the purpose?

That was an HX40pro with a Bullseye brand mitsubishi 5 bolt exhaust housing that had a very small A/R. Out of production Turbine housing that was kinda sketchy. This setup allowed a seperate dump tube for the wastegate and could use an external gate (no internal flapper) but the OEM hole was not large enough to control boost. The rest of the porting was because the turbine housing was very small compared to the rest of the turbo. It was proven on a DSM to allow big gains over the stock small bullseye housing. It was a bolton for a DSM but not a great combo unmodified.

Any mods you do to improve top end can hurt response and boost threshold.