89 Shelby Daytona Turbo ???

[mario03SRT]

Look like I'm picking up a 89 Shelby Daytona TII. Someone told me it was the largest of the turbo's delivered on a 2.2.

Can someone point me to the specs of the turbo and it's capable output. Like max boost efficiency level, hp potential, etc.

It currently has a FWD Perf Stage 5 setup.

Thanks,
Marion

[Dave]

Look like I'm picking up a 89 Shelby Daytona TII. Someone told me it was the largest of the turbo's delivered on a 2.2.

Can someone point me to the specs of the turbo and it's capable output. Like max boost efficiency level, hp potential, etc.

It currently has a FWD Perf Stage 5 setup.

Thanks,
Marion

Well yes it is the largest turbo that came available stock on the 2.2's and 2.5's.

It has a .42 A/R compressor housing with a .48 turbine housing. Some folks have pushed them past 25psi, but when I had mine I ran 20psi and it did great. But if you want to look at their MAP range, their max efficiency is 175HP at 14psi. That is assuming I clicked on the right compressor MAP. Frank?? I used it off your site: http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph.php?company_id=1&family_id=5&product_id=3

If all you have is a S5 computer, I would definately reccommend upgrading the exhaust before any other mod. It will help more than anything. :nod:

[MiniMopar]

Yeah, I've pushed the stock Garrett in the CSX to 18-23psi for about 8 years now. It's operating way past its design spec, but they are pretty tough. Mine is starting to leak oil on the hot side, so the abuse has taken its toll. It will be replaced with a "TU 60-trim" at some point after the Daytona is finally on the road again.

[mario03SRT]

Well yes it is the largest turbo that came available stock on the 2.2's and 2.5's.

It has a .42 A/R compressor housing with a .48 turbine housing. Some folks have pushed them past 25psi, but when I had mine I ran 20psi and it did great. But if you want to look at their MAP range, their max efficiency is 175HP at 14psi. That is assuming I clicked on the right compressor MAP. Frank?? I used it off your site: http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph.php?company_id=1&family_id=5&product_id=3

If all you have is a S5 computer, I would definately reccommend upgrading the exhaust before any other mod. It will help more than anything. :nod:

Mini,

The car has a 3" catback and a 2.5 DP from what I was told in the description. The FWD site says 18 psi calibration. Suppossedly it has been to 25 psi. Sounds like a new FMIC or alky is in order.

What is the "designation" of the turbo? GT, TDO4, etc.

Thanks,
Marion

[turbovanman²]

Actually guys, the TIII turbo is the largest stock 2.2 turbo that came on our cars, :nod: If you count VNT's, there larger also.

Depending on head porting, exhaust setup, IC efficiency, header design etc, around 20-25 psi is all you can get out of it and then your blowing alot of hot air.

The turbo is a Garret T3 series. There are tons of upgrades available but due to Dodge's unique flange mount, your limited to Vendors such as TU and FWD, that isn't bad thing but if Ebay is your bag, your SOL unless you redrill and tap the stock manifold or run a header with a T3 flange.

Check out this link for a description of turbo sizes and wheels-


http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_turbo.html

[tryingbe]

89 Shelby Daytona doesn't exist.

There are some 89 Daytona Shelby around though.

[BadAssPerformance]

Actually guys, the TIII turbo is the largest stock 2.2 turbo that came on our cars, :nod: If you count VNT's, there larger also.

Turbo III Garret is larger, VNT is not really...

http://www.badassperformance.com/mtech/turbotech.html

[mario03SRT]

Actually guys, the TIII turbo is the largest stock 2.2 turbo that came on our cars, :nod: If you count VNT's, there larger also.

Depending on head porting, exhaust setup, IC efficiency, header design etc, around 20-25 psi is all you can get out of it and then your blowing alot of hot air.

The turbo is a Garret T3 series. There are tons of upgrades available but due to Dodge's unique flange mount, your limited to Vendors such as TU and FWD, that isn't bad thing but if Ebay is your bag, your SOL unless you redrill and tap the stock manifold or run a header with a T3 flange.

Check out this link for a description of turbo sizes and wheels-


http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_turbo.html

Thanks for the link. I was on G.Donovans site yesterday and missed that totally.

Marion

[mario03SRT]

89 Shelby Daytona doesn't exist.

There are some 89 Daytona Shelby around though.

My bad:)

Marion

[mario03SRT]

250 hp?

[tryingbe]

Before you increase the power of the engine, make sure the rest of the car is up to shape. IE, have a bearing plate install for your transmission, make sure you have good struts, and suspension bushings, make sure you have good enigne mounts, good brakes, etc

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4163
www.polybushings.com

[turbovanman²]

Good points, do you have an AF guage and EGT guage?

[mario03SRT]

Good points, do you have an AF guage and EGT guage?

I have a LM-1 WB to use on the car. I have not used the EGT's and tune with AFR and knock counts. But I have a EGT kit w/o the gage that can be put on. This is not my first turbo mopar car. I had a 89 Shadow ES, 86 GLHS, and a SRT and bunches other cars.

Does the Getrag A555 need modding to get it to take some gear jammin?

Thanks,
Marion

[tryingbe]

Does the Getrag A555 need modding to get it to take some gear jammin?


http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4163

And a good clutch.

[turbovanman²]

I have a LM-1 WB to use on the car. I have not used the EGT's and tune with AFR and knock counts. But I have a EGT kit w/o the gage that can be put on. This is not my first turbo mopar car. I had a 89 Shadow ES, 86 GLHS, and a SRT and bunches other cars.

Does the Getrag A555 need modding to get it to take some gear jammin?

Thanks,
Marion


Wasn't sure, had to ask. Too many newbies turn up the boost with NO guages, :eek:

[89ShelbyGuy]

89 Shelby Daytona doesn't exist.

There are some 89 Daytona Shelby around though.
Hey tryingbe,

Please explain...
What does it matter where u put the shelby....just curious cause i use it both ways...

[tryingbe]

Same reason you don't call a Shelby Charger, a Charger Shelby, or Daytona ES, a ES Daytona, or Daytona Pacifica, Pacifica Daytona.

Also, the rear of the car clearly says Dodge Daytona Shelby. Not Dodge Shelby Daytona.

Above all, there IS a car namded Shelby Daytona.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelby_Daytona

[TurboGLH]

I have a LM-1 WB to use on the car. I have not used the EGT's and tune with AFR and knock counts. But I have a EGT kit w/o the gage that can be put on. This is not my first turbo mopar car. I had a 89 Shadow ES, 86 GLHS, and a SRT and bunches other cars.

Does the Getrag A555 need modding to get it to take some gear jammin?

Thanks,
Marion

How many miles on the car? A common issue with pre 90' transmissions is the mainshaft bearing surface, the bearing is harder than the shaft and it starts to wear at the shaft.

After a while enough material has been worn off that the shaft starts moving, un-meshing the gears and beating up on the bearing itself. The inevitable conclusion is that the bearing and shaft beat each other to pieces and end up taking out the case or a couple of gears.

In a 89 that's especialy bad as 1st and 2nd are the revised design used in 90+, but due to the change in 1st gear ratio in 92 your replacment options are limited to 1st/2nd from and 89-555 or a 90-91 568. THe 87-88 stuff was used in more vehicles, so it's easier to find.

First thing I would do is a fluid change, pull the drivers axle and pop the bottom bolt out of the steel bearing retainer, that bolt passes through into the diff housing and will allow the last of the fluid to drain. Check it carefully for large amounts of suspended metal, if you see anything more than a normal amount it might be worth the time to pull and check it before you end up replacing a bunch of hard parts.

[mario03SRT]

How many miles on the car? A common issue with pre 90' transmissions is the mainshaft bearing surface, the bearing is harder than the shaft and it starts to wear at the shaft.

After a while enough material has been worn off that the shaft starts moving, un-meshing the gears and beating up on the bearing itself. The inevitable conclusion is that the bearing and shaft beat each other to pieces and end up taking out the case or a couple of gears.

In a 89 that's especialy bad as 1st and 2nd are the revised design used in 90+, but due to the change in 1st gear ratio in 92 your replacment options are limited to 1st/2nd from and 89-555 or a 90-91 568. THe 87-88 stuff was used in more vehicles, so it's easier to find.

First thing I would do is a fluid change, pull the drivers axle and pop the bottom bolt out of the steel bearing retainer, that bolt passes through into the diff housing and will allow the last of the fluid to drain. Check it carefully for large amounts of suspended metal, if you see anything more than a normal amount it might be worth the time to pull and check it before you end up replacing a bunch of hard parts.

Chris,

Thanks for the detailed info. The car is a 89 with 120k+ plus on a broke odometer. It was just flushed and filled, I do not know if the retainer bolt was removed or not. On my one drive the car shifted just fine. Does someone rebuild or up grade these?

Thanks,
Marion

[TurboGLH]

Chris,

Thanks for the detailed info. The car is a 89 with 120k+ plus on a broke odometer. It was just flushed and filled, I do not know if the retainer bolt was removed or not. On my one drive the car shifted just fine. Does someone rebuild or up grade these?

Thanks,
Marion

It's kind of self-serving, but we do rebuilds and upgrades for any stick or automatic. Feel free to ask around here or on TD about the quality of our work.

We've got a big inventory of hard parts (gears, main and input shafts, synchro assemblys, diffs, shift forks and stop rings in both brass and 3-piece steel style) in case of part damage. Every trans gets disassembled, cleaned, painted, inspected, new hard parts as needed, new seals, new bearings and new shift-fork pads.

We'll build you a hybrid (520/523 ring gear and mainshaft with 555/568 gears and input shaft) with a 3.50 f/d to help with traction and trap speeds in a higher powered car, install both quaifes and obxs (hybrid required on the obx)

Drain plug optional on the sticks as well, we use a position almost identical to the one the used on the srt-4, allows you to get all the fluid out without having to pull axles and remove the bolt from the housing.

Drop me a PM if you want more details or have any question at all, even just some tranny tech help.