Which engine has more Mods to go Faster

[mopar969]

Okay, so I am looking for a dodge daytona. I have been given two offers one has a 2.2L non turbo the other is the 3.0L v6. They both are automatics

My understanding is that you can not supercharge either of these two engines easily anymore.

I am looking to make a daytona for street strip. I am hoping for high 13s to low 12s. Which car and how can I do this with easier with more available parts especially since they are both autos.

Thanks all just want to make the right purchase.

[5DIGITS]

2.5L turbo with high compression and good chamber squish to suppress knock.

Menu:
Stock pistons
T3/T4 hybrid turbo with S-II/S-III turbine & 46-50trim compressor on 'E' housing (or equivalent)
Deck the block .030-.035"
G Head with good porting, decked .035"-.045" and +1mm valves
Stock low end
+40% injectors (will support 80-85% duty cycle while avoiding 'full-on')
3.85 FD ratio (555 or 568)
Quaife (or equivalent)
16-18PSI

Result:
Good throttle response
Good driveability
12.60-13.20 ET based on tires
104-107 MPH

[tryingbe]

Okay, so I am looking for a dodge daytona. I have been given two offers one has a 2.2L non turbo the other is the 3.0L v6. They both are automatics


Neither.

Buy one that is already built.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?75949-1990-Dodge-Shadow-ES-2-5-Turbo-Heavily-Modified
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?76780-1987-Chrysler-Town-amp-Country-Woody-Wagon-Stage-2-w-Toys-SRT-4-Swap
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?55998-91-Spirit-RT-8v-Lots-of-mods-lots-of-Power
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?76674-88-dodge-shadow-base-2-2-turbo-fs-in-pa-3000obo

[thedon809]

If you stayed auto, you would have to build it as well.

[mopar969]

Yeah I am thinking that the auto must need beefed up in order to do 12.80's to 13.00's in the 1/4 mile. Also, thanks for the links to cars for sale but I am not a fan of 4 doors. I am still thinking that the 3.0 v6 has more potential than a non turbo 2.2L and it will be cheaper to make it go fatser.

[krut]

What tryingbe is trying to say it's cheaper to buy one already modified than build one on your own. Save a bit more, or be patient and wait for a turbo Daytona (Or a turbo Shadow, GLH, so forth) to come up for sale, if that's what you want. Then modify from there.

[thedon809]

The 3.0l probably won't be cheaper to make fast. There isn't that much off the shelf go fast parts for the 3.0l. It certainly has potential to make big power. Either way, you would be better off finding an already turbo car.

[BoostedDrummer]

Didn't Ondonti make 600hp on a $90 V6 motor?

[thedon809]

Didn't Ondonti make 600hp on a $90 V6 motor?The junkyard engine itself cost only $90. Everything else bolted on to it to make it go fast will cost more than $90.

[mopar969]

Yeah, thanks all I think I will just have to keep waiting till I can find a good shaped turbo daytona 5 speed in my area. Thanks!!

[Ondonti]

The junkyard engine itself cost only $90. Everything else bolted on to it to make it go fast will cost more than $90.

:banghead:

----------------------------

Pretty sure there was an identical thread to this someplace else where I pointed out that for the money, easy tuning is your most important thing and the 4 cylinder calibrations can be made user adjustable.

There are technically more upgrades for the 3.0 bellhousing motors BUT the labor you put into installing the accessories, coolant, wiring, etc for some giant 3.8L Mivec with a billet stroker crank out to over 4 Liters will help you realize that no transmission available for our cars will survive even one pass :(

I think my advice was pick the chassis you want first, then the engine you want and do a transmission swap if you have to, transmission swaps are easy if you can find the parts.


Do you want to run those times on slicks?
I don't do daytonas but if I did I would want a heavyweight R/T

[turbovanman²]

2.5L turbo with high compression and good chamber squish to suppress knock.

Menu:
Stock pistons
T3/T4 hybrid turbo with S-II/S-III turbine & 46-50trim compressor on 'E' housing (or equivalent)
Deck the block .030-.035"
G Head with good porting, decked .035"-.045" and +1mm valves
Stock low end
+40% injectors (will support 80-85% duty cycle while avoiding 'full-on')
3.85 FD ratio (555 or 568)
Quaife (or equivalent)
16-18PSI

Result:
Good throttle response
Good driveability
12.60-13.20 ET based on tires
104-107 MPH

Tell me more about the quench please.


and it will be cheaper to make it go fatser.

Err no.

The 3.0L could have more potential but none have run 8's or 9's yet.