TBI block.

[thedon809]

I've got a 2.5 TBI common block I'm going to build up but going 2.2 cast crank. Is it better to drill a hole in the block or oil pan for the turbo drain? What's the best oil pan and pickup to use?

[contraption22]

I vote to drill the block if the turbo is in a stockish location. It's a sturdier place to mount an oil drain, and it's well above the axles.

[thedon809]

That's what I'm leaning towards. Just drill it and tap for a hose fitting and use a longer turbo drain hose. It is a stock turbo setup.

[contraption22]

Actually the stock fitting is only pressed in. I drilled mine to the OE size (cannot remember what that is). Then I took a steel AN adapter, i think 1/2" NPT to 10an an or something like that, turned down the NPT side to a press fit into the block and tapped it in place with a plastic hammer. That gave me plenty of room to use a nice 10an drain hose.

[thedon809]

I will have to pull the engine out of the shed and take a look at it. Should I use a CB 2.5 oil pan and pickup?

[Vigo]

I have only put an oil return into the oil pan one time (when i turbod the tbi engine in my 90 van 'in the car') but you do have to be very careful about clearing the axle. On the other hand, drilling the block is almost stupid proof as far as placement. Now, whether or not you know how to drill metal without burning up bits is the only 'hard' part. If you can do that i'd say drill the block.

[OmniLuvr]

i drilled the block and used 2.5 pan and pickup with my 2.2 build... but that drill bit is pretty big, i got a cheap set from harbor freight and it got the job done, i think i started with a uni bit to get a good starting point for the harbor drill to take over... i also used the "stock" press in oil drain but wished i would have used a thread in hose barb instead, but the press in type "flows" more because the larger inside diameter...

[Vigo]

If the press in insert is not tight it becomes a silicone-in or a jbweld-in insert. No biggie. There's no load on it.

[supercrackerbox]

FWIW, when I had that done the machine shop only charged me something like $18 bucks to drill the hole and press in the tube. You'll spend close to that or more on a reasonable quality drill bit in that size.

[contraption22]

FWIW, when I had that done the machine shop only charged me something like $18 bucks to drill the hole and press in the tube. You'll spend close to that or more on a reasonable quality drill bit in that size.

Agreed, and the chances of getting the hole straight and round without shop tools are pretty slim. I say have the shop do it if you can.

I'd only use the 2.5 pan if it's properly baffled, or if you are keeping the balance shafts.

[OmniLuvr]

I'd only use the 2.5 pan if it's properly baffled, or if you are keeping the balance shafts

why? I liked the extra quart of oil I could put in it. are you concerned about the "extra" oil that could flow up the sides in hard corning?

[thedon809]

The original 2.5 cb pan looked pretty similar to the 2.2 non cb pan.

[Vigo]

The 2.5 pan without balance shafts in it lets oil slosh around like crazy. Not a big problem if you dont corner hard.

[shackwrrr]

I used a 2.2 tbi bock when I rebuilt mine. 1/2in npt black pipe is the correct OD for the turbo drain and works great.

[supercrackerbox]

The original 2.5 cb pan looked pretty similar to the 2.2 non cb pan.

True. Any year Common Block pan that came without balance shafts (basically any 2.2 except the TIII) will have the sump depression and the bottom panels angled towards it, as opposed to the 2.5/balance shaft pans being perfectly flat. Just make sure you get the correct pickup tube for the oil pump.

[thedon809]

I don't think it will be too difficult to weld in some simple baffles in.

[thedon809]

Here is a couple ideas for a simple baffle. One on each side of the pickup. Thoughts on which one would work the best?http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20141203_121746_zpsgjnw3kav.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20141203_121746_zpsgjnw3kav.jpg.html)

[Pat]

Check out post number 103...that was on a deep sump, non common block pan, which is very similar to a non balance shaft common block pan in design. This has worked great for me. Multiple high rpm autocrosses, no oil issues at all.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?51514-Pat-s-GRM-ScAries!/page6&highlight=grm+scaries

[Rrider]

I'd do #2.

[Pat]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?11655-What-have-you-done-to-your-car-lately-thread&p=453595&highlight=shadow+oil+pan+trap+door+windage#post453 595

Post # 2203

I built this one with simple trap doors and a windage screen in a balance shaft/common block pan. I actually use a non balance shaft pick up in this pan. When I measured the difference in height, it was barely anything and I figured with the baffles and screen for oil control, it would not present a problem. This pan has been also seen a ton of autocross, street and drag abuse with no oil issues at all.

[thedon809]

Now you are making it difficult to choose what to do. Hinges look like something from a hardware store?

[Pat]

Now you are making it difficult to choose what to do. Hinges look like something from a hardware store?

Just a steel continuous hinge that I cut to size, knocked the pin out and made a pin that also included the stopper so the trap door wouldn't get pinned open from oil sloshing around. Took some time, but it really wasn't hard to do...and I was really a beginner with a MIG at that point.

[thedon809]

I think I will end up going with something like on your scaries. Keep it pretty simple. Whats everyones opinion on ARP main studs? Are they truly necessary? I'm shooting for 300-350whp capable engine. What about using a torque plate? I'm going with .020 oversized venolia's. My blocks cyl walls are no bueno for standard sized pistons.

[thedon809]

Bringing this thread back. I've finally gotten to where I need to figure out the oil drain. I haven't drilled the block or anything and was leaning towards putting it in the pan. I'm still running equal length L body halfshafts. Does anyone have pictures of the axles underneath the car to see how close they run to the block? Obviously I'm going to have to put it at basically as high as it can go on the pan. I wonder if I should put a tube in at an angle or have it come out straight perpendicular to the pan and then bend 90 degrees or so up. This support is in the way as well.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150413_183625_zpsv1z8cmky.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150413_183625_zpsv1z8cmky.jpg.html)

[thedon809]

This is the closest pic I have of getting an idea where to run the tube. I might just break down and pull the axle out and bolt it too the block. I'm lazy and don't feel like it though lol.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/omni/85%20glh/2010-12-11130857.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/omni/85%20glh/2010-12-11130857.jpg.html)

[thedon809]

Was rummaging through my crap and found this tube. Should work perfectly with a little bending and massaging.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150414_181548_zpsaensapwp.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150414_181548_zpsaensapwp.jpg.html)