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TheJ
10-13-2014, 06:45 PM
I bought an 89 Dodge Shadow ES a few weeks ago after looking for a few years and I figured I'd drop in and say hello. It's a 2.5l T1 with a 5 speed and bone stock which will probably change. My plan is to do fairly simple upgrades like an exhaust, intercooler (not for sure) and get a flashable ECU from BoostButton. I noticed that the throw out bearing is whining so I'm planning on changing out the clutch and everything just to be safe which leads me to a question. Do you guys have any suggestions on clutches, pressure plates and flywheels? I hope I posted this in the right place.

Thanks for looking.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g137/thej333/Turbo%20Shadow/DSC08176_zps70dfa352.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/thej333/media/Turbo%20Shadow/DSC08176_zps70dfa352.jpg.html)

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g137/thej333/Turbo%20Shadow/DSC08173_zpsba2319b0.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/thej333/media/Turbo%20Shadow/DSC08173_zpsba2319b0.jpg.html)

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g137/thej333/Turbo%20Shadow/DSC08179_zpsd8775709.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/thej333/media/Turbo%20Shadow/DSC08179_zpsd8775709.jpg.html)

raccoon
10-13-2014, 07:37 PM
hey thats a nice one, shadows are the best. :thumb:

shackwrrr
10-13-2014, 08:37 PM
I'm a fan of the spec clutches. Mine is holding up pretty good.

135sohc
10-13-2014, 08:49 PM
Turbo's Unleashed has a line of upgraded clutches and supporting components as does FWD-performance.

Just to say this and not scare you. Being a 1989 that car has what we call the NP-520 transmission. There is a design defect inherent with those transmissions where a support bearing rolls directly on the end of the pinion shaft. Over time that shaft gets eaten up and ultimately the shaft and gears get out of alignment and all sorts of bad things happen. With the transmission out of the car while replacing the clutch it is not much more time to take the transmission down and give it a good once over to inspect for that and replace the seals and fork pads while its all apart.

cordes
10-13-2014, 09:23 PM
I would go to TU for the clutch. I don't know that I would pull the trans apart unless you had a spare trans to steal parts from. There are also a lot of specialty tools required if you need to do much in the way of serious work in there.

TheJ
10-13-2014, 09:23 PM
Turbo's Unleashed has a line of upgraded clutches and supporting components as does FWD-performance.

Just to say this and not scare you. Being a 1989 that car has what we call the NP-520 transmission. There is a design defect inherent with those transmissions where a support bearing rolls directly on the end of the pinion shaft. Over time that shaft gets eaten up and ultimately the shaft and gears get out of alignment and all sorts of bad things happen. With the transmission out of the car while replacing the clutch it is not much more time to take the transmission down and give it a good once over to inspect for that and replace the seals and fork pads while its all apart.

I have read about that on thedodgegarage.com if I do in fact need the gears and pinion shaft where can I get them along with the seals and fork pads. Thanks for the info.

cordes
10-13-2014, 09:25 PM
The fork pads are available from Lengle on here. Gears and shafts will have to be procured used from the parts wanted section. Seals are pretty easy as they are readily available still.

TheJ
10-13-2014, 09:30 PM
The Shadow was a one owner car that has 78k miles on it so I'm hoping its ok. Is there a simple way to check if the pinion shaft is ok? Sorry for all of the newb questions this is the first manual car I've owned.

135sohc
10-13-2014, 09:33 PM
I would go to TU for the clutch. I don't know that I would pull the trans apart unless you had a spare trans to steal parts from. There are also a lot of specialty tools required if you need to do much in the way of serious work in there.

Miller 6252 or a homebrew equivalent to hold the input shaft from spinning while loosening/tightening that nut is the only tool that most don't have in their toolbox if your just doing an informal inspection.

TheJ
10-13-2014, 10:16 PM
I don't suppose there are any symptoms of that pinion shaft getting worn down.

cordes
10-13-2014, 10:48 PM
Miller 6252 or a homebrew equivalent to hold the input shaft from spinning while loosening/tightening that nut is the only tool that most don't have in their toolbox if your just doing an informal inspection.

Agreed. You're going to be out some money if you get in there and find that you might like to replace some stuff though. Then you're in a situation where "since I'm going to... I might as well...". I guess I've always been lucky with my transmissions though. They always look great when I pull them apart. I do know that the 555 in CSX 42 had to have a main shaft replaced in the early 90s though.

TheJ
10-13-2014, 11:00 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I was looking through the TU site and saw they had lightened cast iron flywheels, are these a good idea for a daily driver?

cordes
10-13-2014, 11:07 PM
For a DD I would just stick with the stock flywheel.

TheJ
10-13-2014, 11:32 PM
I was reading through my 89 service manual and it doesn't mention anything about special tools to remove the differential am I missing something?

cordes
10-13-2014, 11:36 PM
I was reading through my 89 service manual and it doesn't mention anything about special tools to remove the differential am I missing something?

No. You don't need any special tools to remove the diff. You will need them if you would like to replace the diff bearings though. Also, the shaft we are talking about is the transmission intermediate shaft. The bearing at the front of the case near the ring for the diff can cause problems. It's mainly due to bad shafts since they don't ride in a race or anything though.

TheJ
10-13-2014, 11:47 PM
Oh I'm sorry, I thought you guys were referring to the diff pinion shaft wearing out like this:

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/trans/trans_diff_pin.jpg

How would I go about doing a simple inspection? I really appreciate the input and info.

cordes
10-14-2014, 12:04 AM
You would have to pretty much disassemble the trans down to the loaded shafts. Pull the shift selector, the end cover, bearing plate, etc. remove the shafts after removing the bolt from the shift forks. Then pull the shafts out. It's a big job. With 7x,xxx easy miles I would just leave it alone. The 568 I just pulled out of my Shadow had over 300K on it many of which were very, very hard miles.

iTurbo
10-21-2014, 08:27 PM
I used to have the *exact* same car, but it was a sedan. I miss that car even more than my 1st car (an '85 Omni GLH H.O.). So much fun those turbo P-bodies.

jrbexhaust
10-22-2014, 12:23 AM
So, not really the "exact" same car if it had two more doors. Just givin you crap, Jeremy.

Fox
10-22-2014, 12:41 AM
ive run the race weight steel flywheel from TU for about 4k miles as a DD and feels just fine on the street

TheJ
10-25-2014, 11:33 PM
Thanks for the replies, are the turbo P-bodies more rare? It seems like I see more turbo daytonas and omnis around than anything else, it might just be my area though. I've always liked the P-bodies ever since my parents had a 86 sundance and then I bought a 93 tbi shadow as a winter beater I fell in love with them. I couldn't believe it when I found this ES shadow so close too me in such great shape.

4 l-bodies
11-01-2014, 07:22 PM
Hey nice car! Good to see white ones that still have paint on them:D. I also had a 4 dr white 89 ES Shadow like iTurbo for years. Put almost 300K on it before floorboards got so soft it was time to scrap it.
What I would do if you want increased HP. Intercool it for sure, 2.5" Exhaust with maybe a 3" downpipe, Put on a real turbo (s-60 works great with the 2.5) & a little more fuel and it will be close to a low 13 second vehicle (with traction) at around 104-105 MPH.
Be thankful yours is a manual tranny. If it was an auto, you would be down around 5 MPG on hwy. I switched over my 89 Sunlight yellow Shadow to a 5 spd, and the first time I drove it it was like I was driving a completely different vehicle. Way more fun to drive too. Here a couple pics of my 89's I used to own.
Todd

raccoon
11-02-2014, 09:50 AM
Thanks for the replies, are the turbo P-bodies more rare? It seems like I see more turbo daytonas and omnis around than anything else, it might just be my area though. I've always liked the P-bodies ever since my parents had a 86 sundance and then I bought a 93 tbi shadow as a winter beater I fell in love with them. I couldn't believe it when I found this ES shadow so close too me in such great shape.


They were cheaper and thus run into the ground. Daytona were a bit pricy so I figure better looked after. I remember a time in the mid 90s when every second car on the road was a P-body. everyone here had em.

cordes
11-02-2014, 03:26 PM
They were cheaper and thus run into the ground. Daytona were a bit pricy so I figure better looked after. I remember a time in the mid 90s when every second car on the road was a P-body. everyone here had em.

Yep. Shadow were everywhere and the Shadow America was super cheap for what you got IMO. The 94 America with a 2.5 TBI and manual trans may well be the best daily driver car ever made.

TheJ
11-02-2014, 09:56 PM
Hey nice car! Good to see white ones that still have paint on them:D. I also had a 4 dr white 89 ES Shadow like iTurbo for years. Put almost 300K on it before floorboards got so soft it was time to scrap it.
What I would do if you want increased HP. Intercool it for sure, 2.5" Exhaust with maybe a 3" downpipe, Put on a real turbo (s-60 works great with the 2.5) & a little more fuel and it will be close to a low 13 second vehicle (with traction) at around 104-105 MPH.
Be thankful yours is a manual tranny. If it was an auto, you would be down around 5 MPG on hwy. I switched over my 89 Sunlight yellow Shadow to a 5 spd, and the first time I drove it it was like I was driving a completely different vehicle. Way more fun to drive too. Here a couple pics of my 89's I used to own.
Todd

Thanks, you had some nice shadows. I really like that yellow. For now I'm going to keep the tiny mitsubishi turbo and just do simple bolt ons.



They were cheaper and thus run into the ground. Daytona were a bit pricy so I figure better looked after. I remember a time in the mid 90s when every second car on the road was a P-body. everyone here had em.

That makes sense, I've never thought of it that way.