View Full Version : Back to my T04E guys: Springs WORK!!
Before the crash, I posted about how our T04E guys all have problems blowing the door open after full boost was reached. The flapper would then slam shut, then continue to blow open and repeat.
Everybody suggested adding a spring to the WG and attach it to the firewall. I did just that and OH MY GOD!! :eek:
I'm speechless. I never knew how fast it was before when the door was blowing open. It was a pita to install, my finger still hurts, but it was worth it! :D
Bring on the V8's now is all I have to say!
Thanks for everyone's help on this.
-Bryan
Oh one more thing. Hey Simon... it builds boost off the line... rather quickly now. Still think it's the torque converter? ;);) Well, do yeh? Punk.
DodgeZ
09-22-2006, 08:52 AM
Oh one more thing. Hey Simon... it builds boost off the line... rather quickly now. Still think it's the torque converter? ;);) Well, do yeh? Punk.
I got your back Simon.....
http://boostedmopar.com/temp/dave_01.jpg
Austrian Dodge
09-22-2006, 09:55 AM
Everybody suggested adding a spring to the WG and attach it to the firewall. I did just that and OH MY GOD!! :eek:
ok now you gotta explain me that ;)
no idea on how this works
ok now you gotta explain me that ;)
no idea on how this works
Ah, it's easy. Make sure you get a spring with two 180* ends. Take the spring and twist one end so the 180* contacts the other side. Like pinch it almost. Attach that end to the wastegate between the WG flapper and the WG arm. Just sandwhich it there. Take the other side and slide it onto the bolt on the firewall behind the intake elbow. Put a washer and a lock-nut on the bolt and you're ready to go.
I'll get some pics. I'll make sure Kevin approves that it's not Macgeyvered and it's done right. :nod:
Directconnection
09-22-2006, 12:32 PM
Wow! Self tapping? Ghetto babaay!
turbovanman²
09-22-2006, 12:40 PM
I got your back Simon.....
http://boostedmopar.com/temp/dave_01.jpg
OMG, thanks Kevin, now thats funny, I don't care who you are, :lol: :lol: :lol:
MiniMopar
09-22-2006, 12:43 PM
What kind of spring? Throttle return spring? Porch door spring?
DodgeZ
09-22-2006, 01:03 PM
What kind of spring? Throttle return spring? Porch door spring?
The SRT guys do it.... look in this Mopar void your warranty PDF in Figure 6.
DodgeZ
09-22-2006, 01:14 PM
I'll get some pics. I'll make sure Kevin approves that it's not Macgeyvered and it's done right. :nod:
If you have a sping going from your firewall to your WGA it is Macgeyvered. For it to be done right you need to fix your WGA or whatever is causing it not to work.
MiniMopar
09-22-2006, 01:15 PM
If you have a sping going from your firewall to your WGA it is Macgeyvered. For it to be done right you need to fix your WGA or whatever is causing it not to work.
Of course, but in a pinch it would be good to know. Say if you are at the track and having trouble holding boost....
DodgeZ
09-22-2006, 01:23 PM
Of course, but in a pinch it would be good to know. Say if you are at the track and having trouble holding boost....
If you have random spings that fit with the right tension while you are at the track you are Macgyver himself! I am not saying I wouldn't use this trick but I sure wouldn't do it on a car I care about or plan on using for a long time. Like the IL boy's New Yorker, that I'd run it on....
t3rse
09-22-2006, 01:42 PM
that macgyver pic is f00king sweet...isn't adding the spring effectively the same as shortening the wg arm?
MiniMopar
09-22-2006, 01:56 PM
Yeah, more or less. However it seems that with these hybrids the spring in the WG is just not stiff enough even if the rod is fully shortened. Dunno myself, as I don't have one.
MiniMopar
09-22-2006, 01:57 PM
If you have random spings that fit with the right tension while you are at the track you are Macgyver himself! I am not saying I wouldn't use this trick but I sure wouldn't do it on a car I care about or plan on using for a long time. Like the IL boy's New Yorker, that I'd run it on....
That's why I want to know what kind. I can add it to my box-o-macgyverness that I keep in the trunk, LOL.
DodgeZ
09-22-2006, 02:22 PM
That's why I want to know what kind. I can add it to my box-o-macgyverness that I keep in the trunk, LOL.
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161023
that's the SRT way
MiniMopar
09-22-2006, 03:02 PM
Cool, thanks. I think I have that same box of random throttle springs in the garage somewhere.
turbovanman²
09-22-2006, 03:39 PM
I am going to try the spring mod in an hour before i go to the track.
cordes
09-22-2006, 06:08 PM
Kevin, that was awesome. Very AR15 esque.
t3rse
09-22-2006, 06:38 PM
in all reality, if this were done properly, it would be better than cutting the wg arms, as one could affix the turnbuckle to an adjustment screw on the wg bracket and then affix a piece on the end of the arm where the SV is and easily adjust by turning the screw...
DodgeZ
09-22-2006, 08:33 PM
in all reality, if this were done properly, it would be better than cutting the wg arms, as one could affix the turnbuckle to an adjustment screw on the wg bracket and then affix a piece on the end of the arm where the SV is and easily adjust by turning the screw...
Or you can adjust your motor mount so the engine movement is greater or lesser. So that engine adjustment changes the tension on the spring which in turn with alter the preload on the WGA adjusting your boost! The harder you launch the less boost you get as the engine torques back toward the firewall and takes tension off the spring. Like traction control! Stop by the house with your car and I’ll use some self tapping screws to get it done! I have some JB weld we can slap over screw head for extra support and to give that clean welded look. Man your car will look great!!!! I can’t wait to hook you up!
Murphy
09-22-2006, 09:08 PM
Bryan, what type of WG actuator do you have? do you have the larger WG flapper? is the housing opened up for it? what type of exhaust do you have? oviously you have too much backpressure in the system, a better flowing exhaust might help the exhaust gasses get out faster and therefore not blow the door open? i'm trying to think of more permenant solutions without adding an external wastegate. I agree with dodge Z that it seems you do do some things sorta half assed, but i think in this situation i would just leave the spring till the next time i had the turbo off it it works good
Shortening the WG arm does not work. If it came with a tighter spring inside the WG can it would work. It's not our faults it's not designed properly. EVERY T04E I've spoken with has the same problem, and fixed it with the spring.
Now if Kevin had a T04E, he would know this. Do you have a problem with how I hung my intercooler, Kevin? Because the last time I checked it's still there. . .hmm... weird, isn't it?
:rolleyes:
DodgeZ
09-22-2006, 09:40 PM
Shortening the WG arm does not work. If it came with a tighter spring inside the WG can it would work. It's not our faults it's not designed properly. EVERY T04E I've spoken with has the same problem, and fixed it with the spring.
Now if Kevin had a T04E, he would know this. Do you have a problem with how I hung my intercooler, Kevin? Because the last time I checked it's still there. . .hmm... weird, isn't it?
:rolleyes:
You could duck tape your intercooler in and it would prolly hold up for a while. Weird, huh?
The problem is you run your head about stuff that for the most part you don’t know crap about.. That or you do crap that is totally rigged up. Look at your threads
Getting ready for the dyno?
TPS maybe?
Head's coming off again - missing anything this time?
New brakes - wont hold past 5psi
Is the T04E good for a 2.4?
Log intake for a blow through style manifold?
5spd to the 2.4?
G-valve: Does it have limits?
Opinions, opinions, opinions...
Needed: +40's
190 L/Hr sufficient?
STI> Spirit > '05 Mustang GT - where I stand
Back to my T04E guys: Springs WORK!!
Then you have threads like this
Building a 12 second beast starts with...
Making your TM a Track King
You haven’t even run 12’s!!!!!!!!!! I’ll just say actions speak louder then words. And by the way you getto rig everything if you do run 12’s it will be for a very very short time before it breaks/blows up. Also ask yourself, “would my dad rig junk up like this?” or even OhioRob…
As for me not having a T4 turbo how would you even know that? Just because I don’t brag about my shat in every post doesn’t mean I don’t own stuff. Which by the way I have a whole lot of shat that is nicer then yours. I even have a better Spirit then you.
And by the way my T3/T4 spools just fine with out a getto rigged spring on it. I also believe I have had/have numerous cars that pull much better times then your 13.72 one-wheel-peel-mobile that you think is so fast because you raced a new GT and can tell….
Again this is just like you to run your head about stuff you don’t know about. People laugh at your post because of all the trash that comes from your username. Do yourself a favor and read/wrench for a couple of more years. You may not care, I am just telling you since your Dad is a good guy and I respect him. If you where just a random punk I would have a bunch more funny pictures up.
:rolleyes:
GLHSKEN
09-22-2006, 11:04 PM
Shortening the WG arm does not work. If it came with a tighter spring inside the WG can it would work.
:rolleyes:
LOL shortening the wg arm DOES work....
Ken, I have to disagree. It works to a point. If shortened all the way it spikes, and makes boost control unstable.
As for Kevin... uh okay. I'm 18. Not 28. If you were my age would you not like to brag about something most people your age are not capable of owning, or even installing on their own? I like how arrogant you are of your own crap. Just go ahead and run your mouth about how I'm doing things wrong, but just keep in mind that I've only been wrenching for ONE YEAR! Way to shoot down a novice mechanic. Big man.
So everyone else knows, I learned only a few things from Rob. How to R&R a trans and a head. That's it. EVERYTHING else I learned on my own through this website. Thanks to a bunch of people who have willed to help me, but again piss on everyone who knocks me down.
Back on topic now. Kevin if you have more crap to talk, give me a call or PM me. I'll glady give you my cell number.
Bryan, what type of WG actuator do you have? do you have the larger WG flapper? is the housing opened up for it? what type of exhaust do you have? oviously you have too much backpressure in the system, a better flowing exhaust might help the exhaust gasses get out faster and therefore not blow the door open? i'm trying to think of more permenant solutions without adding an external wastegate. I agree with dodge Z that it seems you do do some things sorta half assed, but i think in this situation i would just leave the spring till the next time i had the turbo off it it works good
Murph, I have a Turbonetics adjustable WG. I have a 2.5" SV with whatever size flapper comes in it, and I'm running an open 2.5" downpipe. No back pressure there.
Wallace White even had a spring on his T04E. :eyebrows:
DodgeZ
09-23-2006, 12:36 AM
Ken, I have to disagree. It works to a point. If shortened all the way it spikes, and makes boost control unstable.
As for Kevin... uh okay. I'm 18. Not 28. If you were my age would you not like to brag about something most people your age are not capable of owning, or even installing on their own? I like how arrogant you are of your own crap. Just go ahead and run your mouth about how I'm doing things wrong, but just keep in mind that I've only been wrenching for ONE YEAR! Way to shoot down a novice mechanic. Big man.
So everyone else knows, I learned only a few things from Rob. How to R&R a trans and a head. That's it. EVERYTHING else I learned on my own through this website. Thanks to a bunch of people who have willed to help me, but again piss on everyone who knocks me down.
Back on topic now. Kevin if you have more crap to talk, give me a call or PM me. I'll glady give you my cell number.
What is your number?
PS your post sounds like something UWILLOSER would post
MiniMopar
09-23-2006, 12:54 AM
It's a lot like the grainger. If you tighten it down almost all the way, you still can only make so much boost because the spring can only hold back so much pressure. Then you tighten it a little more and the spring is fully compressed and you suddenly have boost up the wazoo because the can doesn't get any pressure at all. The solution is a stiffer spring in the grainger.
So, by that logic it makes sense that the WG rod can only be shortened so much until it is not doing it's job. The solution is a stiffer spring. I've been wondering how my S70 is going to behave with the TU 3" housing. The puck is larger which means the exhaust can exert more force on the arm/rod making the actuator's job of holding it shut that much harder.
Anyway, my CSX has the small actuator. I could resolve the issue by swapping the actuator to a large can, but before I do the spring will tell me if that is the issue or not.
DodgeZ
09-23-2006, 01:43 AM
It's a lot like the grainger. If you tighten it down almost all the way, you still can only make so much boost because the spring can only hold back so much pressure. Then you tighten it a little more and the spring is fully compressed and you suddenly have boost up the wazoo because the can doesn't get any pressure at all. The solution is a stiffer spring in the grainger.
So, by that logic it makes sense that the WG rod can only be shortened so much until it is not doing it's job. The solution is a stiffer spring. I've been wondering how my S70 is going to behave with the TU 3" housing. The puck is larger which means the exhaust can exert more force on the arm/rod making the actuator's job of holding it shut that much harder.
Anyway, my CSX has the small actuator. I could resolve the issue by swapping the actuator to a large can, but before I do the spring will tell me if that is the issue or not.
So no one is able to run a t3/t4 unless they use a spring to the dash stud on the firewall?
Bubba
09-23-2006, 08:31 AM
I've had this same issue Bryan's describing. I'm running a t3/t4 2.5" SW and 3" exhaust. I have a big adjustable wastegate can and tried adjusting the arm as well and had major spiking problems. I spoke with Chris at TU since I've been getting my turbos from him for years and he mentioned putting an external spring to fix my issue. I thought it was kinda funny actually until finding out that there are others with the same problem running external springs to keep a bit more tension on their wastegate arm to prevent spiking. I for one will be trying this soon to see if it helps me as well. It's behind the manifold, so I'm sure it'll be a bit hard to get to, but nobody will see it there either. If it works, it'll be an easy fix to a problem I've had for a while and I'll be happy :)
GLHSKEN
09-23-2006, 11:00 AM
Ken, I have to disagree. It works to a point. If shortened all the way it spikes, and makes boost control unstable.
Hmmm contradicting yourself here... Nothing is perfect. That's where experience comes in. Then it's in the fine adjustments. All the cars running high boost have a "spike" of sorts. Some more than others. .5 psi is still a "spike"
I ran a T3/4 with no issues. Small spike and it would settle down. Big can, no springs shortened arm.
I have a friend whe uses springs just to RAISE his boost... He would welcome a "spike" of sorts.
86Shelby
09-23-2006, 12:49 PM
I have a friend whe uses springs just to RAISE his boost...
That is the reason the spring was on the car pictured in the original thread. It was simply because of the boost controller not being able to control more than 20 psi reliably. Boost level was consistant with no spiking, but just a little too low. I dug into the tuning notes left for me by the p.o. for that info. Now it runs a rock solid 24 psi instead of the controller-limited 18.
cordes
09-23-2006, 09:35 PM
I finally got my omni on the road again today with a clutch that should hopefully hold some boost. I run a hybrid with a 2.5" SV, and today the DP was not hooked up. I have a TU WG bracket with an old WGA and an arm that I made for it hooked up. I have a line going from the barb on the turbo to the WGA, and it sits at 7PSI with little to no real spike. I too am of the belief that if you need to put springs on there to control your boost, you need to reacess your situation. If you want to run one so that you can run higher boost that is a different story.
Bubba
09-23-2006, 11:07 PM
I finally got my omni on the road again today with a clutch that should hopefully hold some boost. I run a hybrid with a 2.5" SV, and today the DP was not hooked up. I have a TU WG bracket with an old WGA and an arm that I made for it hooked up. I have a line going from the barb on the turbo to the WGA, and it sits at 7PSI with little to no real spike. I too am of the belief that if you need to put springs on there to control your boost, you need to reacess your situation. If you want to run one so that you can run higher boost that is a different story.
That is where the problem seems to lie at higher boost levels; at really low boost levels there's not the spiking as described here.
MiniMopar
09-23-2006, 11:53 PM
So no one is able to run a t3/t4 unless they use a spring to the dash stud on the firewall?
No, I'm not saying that at all. I was just making an analogy. You need a stiffer spring in your WG. In leu of that, the external spring works. You could even put the rod right through the spring and attach it to the can.
turbovanman²
09-23-2006, 11:59 PM
Worked for me, stopped my boost from spiking badly.
Anonymous_User
09-24-2006, 01:25 AM
OK, I'd like to ask why you attach it to the firewall and not from the flapper arm to the wastegate actuator bracket? Doesn't the movement of the motor make it very inconsistant when it is attached to the firewall?
OK, I'd like to ask why you attach it to the firewall and not from the flapper arm to the wastegate actuator bracket? Doesn't the movement of the motor make it very inconsistant when it is attached to the firewall?
You know that's a great idea. The movement of the motor rocking backwards is a lot, I'll agree, but it's secured with a washer and a lock nut on the bolt. It's not going anywhere.
Plus I'd have to drill a hole in the bracket to attach the spring.
DodgeZ
09-24-2006, 09:40 AM
You know that's a great idea. The movement of the motor rocking backwards is a lot, I'll agree, but it's secured with a washer and a lock nut on the bolt. It's not going anywhere.
Plus I'd have to drill a hole in the bracket to attach the spring.
Dave, did you get any pictures of your setup?
jckrieger
09-24-2006, 10:45 AM
I have a 50 trim TO4E with a Stage 3, .48 turbine housing and have no problems with the large Turbonetics adjustable wastegate actuator. I'm swapping in a 2.5L bottom end and a .63 turbine housing in the next week, so we'll see if anything changes with the hardware swap. Are you guys all running 2.5L bottom ends? Is the spike problem only for guys running a stock or Stage 2 turbine wheel?
Bubba
09-24-2006, 10:46 AM
I know Bryan and myself have the .63 with stage 2 exhaust on 2.5 motors.
Yup, S2 wheel here in the .63 housing. Here's some pics... kinda hard to take by shoving the camera between the intake and all...
BTW Christian I fixed that pinched hose, I'll see if my blowby stops now. Now I need a 90* off the catch can.
t3rse
09-24-2006, 02:24 PM
Stop by the house with your car and I’ll use some self tapping screws to get it done! I have some JB weld we can slap over screw head for extra support and to give that clean welded look. Man your car will look great!!!! I can’t wait to hook you up!
as long as you have some silver spray paint so we make it look like TIG welds...while we're at it we can install a roll-cage made from pvc pipe...enough duct tape and jb and it should be as strong as chromoly don't you think? we can build plexi-glass gussets and hook it all together with self-tapping screws...i've also got a great idea for helping my traction problems...we can stuff 2x4s between the rear control arms and the body to elimintate squat...
jckrieger
09-24-2006, 08:06 PM
So, did that spring solve your boost spike problem? It sounds to me like you need a stage 3 turbine wheel :)
turbovanman²
10-04-2006, 07:46 PM
I have a 50 trim TO4E with a Stage 3, .48 turbine housing and have no problems with the large Turbonetics adjustable wastegate actuator. I'm swapping in a 2.5L bottom end and a .63 turbine housing in the next week, so we'll see if anything changes with the hardware swap. Are you guys all running 2.5L bottom ends? Is the spike problem only for guys running a stock or Stage 2 turbine wheel?
2.5 with stage 3, spike city, tried everything and the spring actually almost fixed it.
jckrieger
10-07-2006, 05:57 PM
2.5 with stage 3, spike city, tried everything and the spring actually almost fixed it.
I now have a 2.5L with the stage 3, .63 A/R turbo and I get a 2psi spike if the grainger is set at 18psi and almost no spike at 15psi. I'm still using a stock big can wastegate actuator.
So it seems that the spring may actually work. :eek: So what if it wears out, clutches, tires, and brakes wear too.
BadAssPerformance
10-08-2006, 03:56 AM
I didnt see a solid motor mount in your list of mods, does your boost float around when your motor moves when it shifts cause you got it strapped onto the firewall?
turbovanman²
10-08-2006, 03:56 PM
So it seems that the spring may actually work. :eek: So what if it wears out, clutches, tires, and brakes wear too.
The issue is not using the spring but HOW its installed. Your not supposed to hook it to the firewall but something solid on the engine, :nod:
JT, the only solid mount I have is a poly pass. side mount. The rest are stock. I still have had no problems. 1psi spike and it doesn't ever fall off anymore.
show-off
10-09-2006, 09:11 AM
Their point is...the motor rocks and torques, but the firewall doesn't.
MiniMopar
10-09-2006, 10:47 AM
Yeah, but it probably does net much of a tension change on the spring...not enough to matter anyway. Just think about the rear tracking bar...
Turbodave
10-09-2006, 12:03 PM
If you use a big enough spring maybe you can cure boost creep and axle hop all with the same mod :lol:
turbovanman²
10-09-2006, 01:07 PM
If you use a big enough spring maybe you can cure boost creep and axle hop all with the same mod :lol:
Hahhhaa. :lol:
Bubba
10-09-2006, 01:12 PM
I installed an external spring and it did help minimize my spiking issues. Probably the best way is to mount it from the wastegate arm to the wastegate bracket via an extra drilled hole or something of that nature. I'll keep it the way it is until this winter when everything comes apart to install a log header, 2-piece intake and big valve g-head. Of course with the extra flow of all these parts, my spiking may be totally eliminated...wishful thinking.
MiniMopar
10-09-2006, 01:55 PM
If you use a big enough spring maybe you can cure boost creep and axle hop all with the same mod :lol:
Bobblegatestrut?
I installed an external spring and it did help minimize my spiking issues. Probably the best way is to mount it from the wastegate arm to the wastegate bracket via an extra drilled hole or something of that nature. I'll keep it the way it is until this winter when everything comes apart to install a log header, 2-piece intake and big valve g-head. Of course with the extra flow of all these parts, my spiking may be totally eliminated...wishful thinking.
Which is exactly why it's mounted to the firewall. Anyone who owns an Adj. WG and braided lines knows it's impossible to remove the WG bracket without removing the coolant and oil feed line just to get to the bolts.
BadAssPerformance
10-10-2006, 08:00 PM
Braided lines? Wow, sounds like a race car ;)
GLHSKEN
10-10-2006, 08:09 PM
Which is exactly why it's mounted to the firewall. Anyone who owns an Adj. WG and braided lines knows it's impossible to remove the WG bracket without removing the coolant and oil feed line just to get to the bolts.
BS The lines run UNDER the wastegate arm. Been there Done that...
turbovanman²
10-10-2006, 08:11 PM
Which is exactly why it's mounted to the firewall. Anyone who owns an Adj. WG and braided lines knows it's impossible to remove the WG bracket without removing the coolant and oil feed line just to get to the bolts.
Nope, I have removed mine a few times to adjust the tension and I did it on a customers Shelby Z to replace the oil line, needed the room so off it came.
cordes
10-10-2006, 09:43 PM
+1 for being able to remove the WG bracket on a hybrid with oil and coolant lines in place.
Frank
10-10-2006, 09:50 PM
Mine run under the wastegate arm... you just have to put the right fittings in the right place... remember our conversation a while back?
DodgeZ
10-16-2006, 03:55 PM
nah dawg, that won't void your warranty!
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/skunkonesrh/99centmod.jpg
BS The lines run UNDER the wastegate arm. Been there Done that...
Tell me how you'd remove mine? Maybe I ran them wrong. :confused:
TurboJerry
10-18-2006, 04:16 AM
Too many fittings. I run the stock lines/fittings. I still don't understand the additional spring thing. I can get 28 psi boost with ease and just the "0030" big can actuator. Run the coolant line as close to the rod as possible and there should be room to get underneath it(coolant line) to get the bracket bolts.
Bubba
10-18-2006, 08:19 AM
The wastegate bracket bolts are nearly impossible to remove with the lines installed. Mine are routed similar to Bryan's.
cordes
10-18-2006, 10:11 PM
Tell me how you'd remove mine? Maybe I ran them wrong. :confused:
If you did not have the street elbow ----ed toward the comp housing it would be no problem. I do feel your pain to a certain extent though. I added my own coolant lines to my omni so that I could easily remove them and pull the turbo. What you have is very do able if installed with forethought though.
If you did not have the street elbow ----ed toward the comp housing it would be no problem. I do feel your pain to a certain extent though. I added my own coolant lines to my omni so that I could easily remove them and pull the turbo. What you have is very do able if installed with forethought though.
Well I considered the thought of, "what if I have to remove the WG bracket?" I tried ----ing the coolant feed on the other side of the oil feed but there wasn't enough slack to reach the t-stat housing.
Too many fittings. I run the stock lines/fittings. Braided lines gets you a warranty. :thumb:
I still don't understand the additional spring thing. I can get 28 psi boost with ease and just the "0030" big can actuator. Run the coolant line as close to the rod as possible and there should be room to get underneath it(coolant line) to get the bracket bolts.
Because it preloads the WG itself. We can't install washers like others do, because it's on the opposite side of the comp. housing. It's basically the only way to preload the WG. It prevents the flapper door from blowing open. That happens because so much exhaust gas pressure is built up inside the turbine housing. Atleast that's how it was explained to me.
Bubba
10-19-2006, 07:20 PM
Well I considered the thought of, "what if I have to remove the WG bracket?" I tried ----ing the coolant feed on the other side of the oil feed but there wasn't enough slack to reach the t-stat housing.
I agree, not enough slack in my braided lines to do so.
DodgeZ
10-19-2006, 08:36 PM
I agree, not enough slack in my braided lines to do so.
http://boostedmopar.com/temp/t4_turbo%20003.jpg
Bubba
10-19-2006, 08:49 PM
You're not using a stock exhaust manifold are you? Turbo looks closer to the cdriver's side; could possibly be the angle of the picture though. When I installed mine, the coolant feed was too tight to put on the other side of the oil line. I'll have my head off this winter to install my g-head and header, so things will be changed a bit anyways.
http://boostedmopar.com/temp/t4_turbo%20003.jpg
DodgeZ
10-19-2006, 08:54 PM
You're not using a stock exhaust manifold are you? Turbo looks closer to the cdriver's side; could possibly be the angle of the picture though. When I installed mine, the coolant feed was too tight to put on the other side of the oil line. I'll have my head off this winter to install my g-head and header, so things will be changed a bit anyways.
dang you noticed! I didn't like it that way and it wouldn't go thru the drivers side of the oil line so I bought some more fittings and went over the wga rod.
Since you let the cat out of the bag here are the rest of the pictures.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1009009&postcount=20
Bubba
10-19-2006, 09:21 PM
Looks real good! I wish I had a TU header, but I came across a log style header keeping the turbo in the stock position for a very reasonable price. Is anything easier to get to with the 2-piece intake? I have one of those I'm gonna use this time as well.
dang you noticed! I didn't like it that way and it wouldn't go thru the drivers side of the oil line so I bought some more fittings and went over the wga rod.
Since you let the cat out of the bag here are the rest of the pictures.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1009009&postcount=20
dang you noticed! I didn't like it that way and it wouldn't go thru the drivers side of the oil line so I bought some more fittings and went over the wga rod.
Since you let the cat out of the bag here are the rest of the pictures.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1009009&postcount=20
Way to try and dog on me, Kevin. :rolleyes:
DodgeZ
10-20-2006, 06:43 AM
Way to try and dog on me, Kevin. :rolleyes:
As you know I can own you at anytime. It is like out running a honda. :lol:
But in my setup it would work so.... it would work. You just have to have a TU header is all
Frank
10-20-2006, 10:00 AM
Easy there killers.
t3rse
10-20-2006, 11:03 AM
some people don't realize that these coolant and oil lines have fittings on them...these fittings can be supplimented with other fittings to shorten or lengthen lines as needed.
TurboJerry
10-21-2006, 03:20 AM
I understand what the spring does, I just meant that all I did was tighten the arm untill it gave enough boost without a spring on the outside.
BARRON
10-21-2006, 08:55 AM
Not meaning to hi-jack really but...just reading Kevin's link to the WG spring thread over at the SRT forums.... couldnt these guys just install an MBC like we do and control the boost that way?
It sounds like 1/2 of them are just running out and installing a spring on their stock setup. All this is gonna do is just cause a spike. ..Some of them are spiking to 18-20lbs...isnt that like.. 8-10psi over stock. before settling down between 10-15psi. It sounds pretty wacked to me. Buncha crazies.
DodgeZ
10-21-2006, 09:35 AM
Not meaning to hi-jack really but...just reading Kevin's link to the WG spring thread over at the SRT forums.... couldnt these guys just install an MBC like we do and control the boost that way?
It sounds like 1/2 of them are just running out and installing a spring on their stock setup. All this is gonna do is just cause a spike. ..Some of them are spiking to 18-20lbs...isnt that like.. 8-10psi over stock. before settling down between 10-15psi. It sounds pretty wacked to me. Buncha crazies.
The spring is wayyyyy to weak in the stock wga I tried it. great boost at first but once you hit a gear that really pulls for a while you lose your boost as the flapper door just blows open. I tried fabbing my own wga then I went to the track. The can I used was way to strong, 16psi sticker on the side. It was from a big diesel turbo. I made one pass it boosted to high and so I let out. I quick swapped the wga back to stock and tossed on my spare g-valve. It boosted great until 3rd gear. then it fell on it's face. Still ran a 13.2 but it was 98mph lol
DodgeZ
10-21-2006, 09:46 AM
some people don't realize that these coolant and oil lines have fittings on them...these fittings can be supplimented with other fittings to shorten or lengthen lines as needed.
If you look at bryan's line and mine they are different. mine has that big hex head on it and won't fit thru the driver's side of the oil line.
TurboJerry
10-25-2006, 02:56 AM
I used to have fun with the "blow open" on the '87-'88 T-II turbo small cans, and Mitsu turbo cans on the '88-'92 cars as well. I liked using a big can from a log setup and threading the rods and using a barrell nut to couple/adjust them together. I think a SRT-4 would be the same 1/4" rod too...... My friends van got 23 psi on a mitsu turbo which was unheard of back then....
Not to bring a dead thread back to life, but now I'm befuddled.
I installed the turbo on the van now, and whenever I had a MBC hooked up it would spike uncontrollably. With the vacs going straight from the compressor nipple to the WG, it would produce around 6-8psi, depending on WG arm threads.
I shortened the threads (mind you I installed an external spring, to the Z bracket this time :D), and it went from 8psi to 6psi with no MBC, but with the MBC installed it still spiked.
Today I go out and tear off the spring from the WG arm and voila! I get 12-14psi... what's weird is I get 14psi in 1st gear, and the boost drops off (again!) in higher gear. It doesn't fly up and down like the Spirit did. It's relatively steady.
I think I'll try shortening the arm and see if it's a little more firm.
I also noticed it's incredibly laggier without the external spring.
EDIT* I spun the arm 4 full turns in and it holds 9psi so far. I turned it up a hair so I'll see if I can stick it to 12psi...
Anyone know why on the Spirit it would surge but after being rebuilt the problem is gone? It seems a few of us are having these problems but a handful aren't...
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