1987 le baron conv turbo powerloss message

[TheSteve]

Hello!
I am new here. I just bought a 1987 Le Baron turbo convertible with the 2.2 turbo engine (premium edition). Anyway, the car has 55k original miles on it, carfax has a totally clean history. The thing is near museum condition, everything but the rear power passenger window works.

That said, the "powerloss" message has just appeared on the dash. But everything on the car works fine. It starts right up, idles smooth, accelerates fine, no power loss on any of the gauges or anything. It did just get its engine washed so I a thinking that may be it, but i have to go to clearwater Friday and i do not want any surprises. I am new here so forgive me if this has been covered before. i am taking it Thursday for an oil change and was just going to have my local mechanic guy look it over (they are really good).

thanks in advance

[minigts]

Turn the key on and off three times in a row (don't start the car) and then record the number of flashes and look for 5 flashes and then another 5 flashes (code 55, end of codes). Record those and check the minimopar.net site. http://minimopar.net/fault/index.html

Welcome to the forum, btw!

[cordes]

Welcome to the board. Do what Jon said and report back!

[TheSteve]

I will definitely do that! On a side not, how do I add more images to my car's garage? I added one but I need to add more.

[cordes]

When you go to the garage it's in the drop down menu that you get when you click on your car.

[TheSteve]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10524559_10152128533072385_1813223394365902925_n.j pghttps://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10408861_10152128533067385_1092898450462872561_n.j pg

[cordes]

Wow, that looks really clean. Very nice.

[TheSteve]

Wow, that looks really clean. Very nice.

Thank you! It was a once in a lifetime find. I have an appointment Thursday with my mechanic who will diagnose the "powerloss" issue, though all the gear heads I talked to at work (including some Mopar freaks) are 99% sure its nothing major.

Another thing, is it possible to change the illumination of the dash from the standard blueish to something more red? Or is that just WAY too much of a custom dash build?

[minigts]

It can be something unplugged. I would go over and over the harness and check every little thing in the engine bay. It won't be or shouldn't be anything inside the car. Did you pull the codes?

[TheSteve]

It can be something unplugged. I would go over and over the harness and check every little thing in the engine bay. It won't be or shouldn't be anything inside the car. Did you pull the codes?

I haven't pulled the codes because I have been working and its been raining non stop here in Florida. The odd thing is, it didn't have that message until after they power washed the engine, very odd. I am sure my mechanic will figure it out, I mean good lord he has kept my 2000 Jetta's electrical system intact for 14 years and if you know VW you know THAT is a miracle!

[Dodge Aries K]

You're lucky! Your LeBaron talks!

[TheSteve]

Update: The Powerloss signal went away on its own and hasn't come back. I leave in an hour for the oil change and checkup so I will get them to still check everything out. BAD news is the cigarette/12 volt outlet doesn't work and I need that to power my GPS...and yes, it's weird having a car talk to me,,,wish the voice was female!

Another thing: the AC blows from the bottom and the top but NOT the panel...even with the panel button on...AC is cold but it wont come out of the panel. Someone told me there is a manual switch or level to get it to blow from the panel?

Will update later with more pics! I am SO happy with the car!

[Dodge Aries K]

The vent not working right is probably a vacuum leak man. I've had a few of these cars have vent switching problems and it was because the recirc door actuator under the passenger side dash got unhooked.

[TheSteve]

The vent not working right is probably a vacuum leak man. I've had a few of these cars have vent switching problems and it was because the recirc door actuator under the passenger side dash got unhooked.

Ah thanks I will check it out Monday on my day off.

Just got back from Clearwater, and the damn powerloss message was a no show. everytime i want to check the codes on it it doesnt show up. I am begining ot think its a quirk or something as the car ran on I-75 like a champ and I pulled 25 MPG with a lead foot and air on high.

[cordes]

So you don't get any codes when you flip the key to the run position three times? You should get at least a code 55 which is end of codes.

[TheSteve]

I get the 55 codes, thats what I meant I just didn't explain it correctly. It's all rather odd.

[Dodge Aries K]

Well, I was able to score a Neon for stupid cheap because the dealer pressure washed the engine bay and it made it misfire and act all crazy. Let it dry for a while and it was perfectly fine. Some things just don't like getting soaked in water and cause hiccups or other issues.

[TheSteve]

I finally got a code....CODE 23. The weird thing is the car runs fine, its nothing is overheating, it accelerates fine, runs smooth. MPG is where it should be...and the powerloss only comes on sometimes...should I just change the Air Temperature Sensor?

[cordes]

I finally got a code....CODE 23. The weird thing is the car runs fine, its nothing is overheating, it accelerates fine, runs smooth. MPG is where it should be...and the powerloss only comes on sometimes...should I just change the Air Temperature Sensor?

http://www.minimopar.net/fault/code23-MPI.html

If you have a multimeter it's pretty easy to test. Just touch a probe to a pin in the sensor and read the ohms. If you get anywhere near what is listed on that page it should be good. If not then replace the sensor. If the sensor is good then you're looking at trouble shooting the wiring. That's not too bad though.

[TheSteve]

I found one on ebay that, according to the filters, fits my car.
BWD Automotive WT394 Air Charged Temperature Sensorhttp://i.ebayimg.com/00/$T2eC16Z,!zEE9s3!Yld1BQNLKL5oUw~~_32.JPG?set_id=89 040003C1

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http://www.minimopar.net/fault/code23-MPI.html

If you have a multimeter it's pretty easy to test. Just touch a probe to a pin in the sensor and read the ohms. If you get anywhere near what is listed on that page it should be good. If not then replace the sensor. If the sensor is good then you're looking at trouble shooting the wiring. That's not too bad though.

Thanks a lot! Will do tomorrow!

[cordes]

For most of the parts you'll need check out www.rockauto.com not only are they a site sponsor, but they have great prices and offer 5% off with a coupon code that they post on here. I compare them with amazon and they usually win.

[TheSteve]

For most of the parts you'll need check out www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com) not only are they a site sponsor, but they have great prices and offer 5% off with a coupon code that they post on here. I compare them with amazon and they usually win.

oh wow yeah you're right...much cheaper.....sweet.

[cordes]

oh wow yeah you're right...much cheaper.....sweet.

Glad to help. It's a super easy to install part too so you can tackle this one in about 5min.