Maximum hp?

[K3719er]

So, I THINK this is the right place to post this, if not, moderators feel free to move it.

I'm pretty good at mechanics so far, but I'm still learning and have a long way to go - obviously not formally trained, I'm a do it yourselfer to the max.

I have a 1991 Dodge Daytona with the CS package (rare I know) and it is as stock as a warehouse. I've done some recent tune up work (oil and filter change, New plugs [Bosch double platinum,] new wires, air filter, 4 New tires [Kumho Ecsta PA31,] new ignition coil, New muffler, New fuel filter) but nothing super serious yet.

I'm getting about 10 - 11 lbs of boost in the 4500-5000 rpm range off of my turbo, it feels quick and responsive, but aside from the the advertised 150ish HP I don't know where it is or what is actually does in any performance tests.

I have an I'd a of where I want it, I would LIKE about 350 HP ith 20ish lbs of boost, and what I am wondering is what do I need to do get there? From what I have found online, the things I need to do in order are: intercooler, boost controller, blow off valve, hi cap fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump, and an ECU dyno tune.

Am I right? Is there more? Impart your knowledge upon me ppl! How do I need my goals?

[Shadow]

Your limitation of 20psi boost will double the price of what you could otherwise do if you were shooting for say 25psi.

First off, are you wanting 350CHP or 350WHP? There is a Big difference right there as 350CHP (crank horse power) is only around 290-300WHP which can be done quite easily.

If your looking for 350WHP @ 20psi your going to need a well ported head, custom intake, cam, and properly sized turbo for starters and your chance of being happy with the end result, drivability wise and other is fair at best.

If your only looking for 350CHP then the 46 trim stage 1 turbo .63 A/R is your best bet and will allow you to do it with Less in the way of Head/ Cam/ Intake while still having good drivability, but IF your stuck on making it @ 20psi you will still need those components and top notch at that. (good flowing head/ Cam/ Intake combo) And a Great flowing exhaust to boot!

[K3719er]

Putting it that way, let's assume in trying trying for an even 300 wheel hp.

[contraption22]

300whp at 20psi? Go 16v!

First at thing you need to do is ditch the platinum plugs for coppers.

[tryingbe]

300whp at 20psi? Go 16v!


And go E85.

[Shadow]

First at thing you need to do is ditch the platinum plugs for coppers.

Agreed, Bosch Platinums are one of the worst plugs you can run in one of these mtrs. All you need are Champion or NGK and your set.

The Charger in my sig is about 400WHP @ 20-22psi right now, so it's not like it's non-doable. It takes attention to detail and all the right parts working properly together.

For 300WHP @ 20ish lbs boost on the 46 trim I mentioned you would need a 3" mandrel coming right off the turbine housing. You would need a well ported +1mm valve head. (I've only done this with G-heads) a Fully ported 2 piece intake or a D-plenum 2 piece upgraded intake with 52mm TB. F4 cam with Crane springs that match the cam well. 2 1/2" I/C piping with a good efficient FMIC. 3" CAI or larger. Properly ported stock exhaust mani or better, and a well built or good condition bottom end.

I'm assuming this is a 2.2, if it's a 2.5 you will need a little more of everything to make the same HP #'s. (although the 2.5 would make More TQ, just at a lower HP #)

[K3719er]

It's a 2.5l.

[Tbird232ci]

What kind of experience do you have with driving "high power" cars?

Reason I ask, these cars can be quite a bit of a handful with less power than you would expect.

I'd suggest starting small, like exhaust, intercooler, intake, boost controller and fuel modifications, and get a good, gradual feel for the car.

[zin]

Good advice Tbird, make the most of what you have, then work your way up, you'll find there are other items that will need attention along the way, such as suspension and brakes... we tend to get caught up in the "GO" and forget the "WHOA"...

And, a lot of "minor" upgrades will provide more "bang for your buck" and you'll learn a lot along the way, things that help you keep from wasting time and money!

Mike

[Shadow]

Agreed, it's nice to dream of 300WHP, but there's a lot that needs to be covered along the way. You can do a lot of the "little things" and then move up in power as you go. :thumb:

[K3719er]

How does the forum feel about this value wise: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=130869156971&alt=web

And what would be realistic gains from installing this.

[K3719er]

Also, I'm in agreeance with the suggestions of a little bit at a time. I wasn't looking to pull the car in to the garage at 150hp and pull it out at 300hp - I may be a little crazy, but I'm not stupid :P

I appreciate the advice thus far.

[cordes]

I would shy away from the absolute noname ICs on ebay. Even stepping up to the affordable XS Power or other such IC is an improvement over those IMO. There is also some real world experience that shows them to work pretty well for the money.

I always recommend a custom cal, followed by an IC and then larger injectors/bigger boost. You can have so much fun and go so fast in these cars with even a stock turbo that making a lot of changes that will cause down time and lost interest isn't the way I would do it. I've done the all at once approach a time or two and I always like driving the ones that go slow more than looking at the long term project that will be super fast.

[Vigo]

I feel that that cooler looks on the small and restrictive side for 300hp. I think intercoolers are one of the only places where 'one and done' actually makes sense when upgrading a car. I would go for the best one you can force yourself to do as far as money and effort. It will last forever and make everything else easier in the long run.

[wallace]

I would check the fuel system and upgrade the wiring if it's still stock you want that tip top before turning it up. Does it still have the mitsu turbo on it?

[Force Fed Mopar]

For reference, my 2.5 Lebaron runs 80mph in the 8th, minimal mods.

3300# race weight
2.5 CB w/ Wiseco pistons
Stock head, valvetrain, and cam
2-piece intake w/ 52mm TB
ported exhaust manifold
stock Garrett turbo
Water to air intercooling system
2.5" swingvalve
3" exhaust
Custom tune w/ +40 injectors
568/523 hybrid trans w/ OBX posi
All-season street tires

Ran that on about 20psi of boost. Calculators from mph puts it at around 240whp. Having said that, I learned stuff over the winter and am stepping down the boost and starting to re-tune the spark advance. The stock swirl head is very sensitive to timing at high boost levels.

[K3719er]

I would check the fuel system and upgrade the wiring if it's still stock you want that tip top before turning it up. Does it still have the mitsu turbo on it?

Ya, it still has the mitsu turbo on it.

[dwh4784]

Where are you at in Washington? I could show you what a 91 with basic mods feels like compared to stock if you happened to be in or around Spokane. I'm nowhere near your target power but it's amazing what you can do to these things without getting too crazy. The big dollars come when you need a custom intake, head porting, high HP clutch, larger turbo, forged pistons, etc.

[K3719er]

I live right around ft Lewis.

[K3719er]

So, I've picked up a few parts: an intercooler (4x11x32 in. JDM sport) and a manual bost controller.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/2upu9y3e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/ejadysar.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/ysegazub.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/3ubu4u7a.jpg

I got the intercooler for 50 bucks and the boost controller for 30 - Good deal all around?

My question: I still need piping, so I will be able to instal the controller before the intercooler - should I be able to safely run 15lbs of boost without an intercooler or any other major modifications?

[zin]

Sounds a bit high, but is totally dependent on fuel quality, run race gas or E85 and it wouldn't be a problem, normal premium, might not be so happy.

Mike

- - - Updated - - -

Sounds a bit high, but is totally dependent on fuel quality, run race gas or E85 and it wouldn't be a problem, normal premium, might not be so happy.

Mike

[Ondonti]

Was this the red daytona listed on C.L. for months?
Don't mess with boost until you have the tools necessary to compliment increased boost. Buy a wideband, install the intercooler, etc.

[K3719er]

Sounds a bit high, but is totally dependent on fuel quality, run race gas or E85 and it wouldn't be a problem, normal premium, might not be so happy.

Mike

- - - Updated - - -

Sounds a bit high, but is totally dependent on fuel quality, run race gas or E85 and it wouldn't be a problem, normal premium, might not be so happy.

Mike
15 psi sounds a bit high for regular premium gas?

[K3719er]

Was this the red daytona listed on C.L. for months?
Don't mess with boost until you have the tools necessary to compliment increased boost. Buy a wideband, install the intercooler, etc.
no, it's this one

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/8utysu8u.jpg

[dwh4784]

Is that intercooler tube & fin? It looks different than the one I bought (bar & plate). For $50 I wouldn't worry but it will limit you eventually.

15psi with no intercooler and a mitsu turbo equals blown up 2.5. Definitely wait until you have the intercooler and wideband installed. You could put the boost controller in and set it to the factory 11psi so it hits full boost quicker though.

[K3719er]

Is that intercooler tube & fin? It looks different than the one I bought (bar & plate). For $50 I wouldn't worry but it will limit you eventually.

15psi with no intercooler and a mitsu turbo equals blown up 2.5. Definitely wait until you have the intercooler and wideband installed. You could put the boost controller in and set it to the factory 11psi so it hits full boost quicker though.
Will a wide band just plug in? Or will I need to tune the ECU to recognise it.

[dwh4784]

If you buy an Innovate wideband you can tap it into your factory O2 signal wire and replace the factory O2 sensor. The AEM nobody seems quite sure if you can do that. I got the AEM (either one will require welding in a bung for it in the exhaust) and it works great but the O2 feedback would be nice.

[Ondonti]

What city? Looks mossy and damp :D

All you have to do is buy a wideband with a narrowband output ability. Most of them have it. Cheap one is the innovate MTX-L but better quality is anything from Zeitronix. I have one of each and they both output narrowband (Both are programmable for what signal you want outputted) and the AEM should too if you buy the correct one. Zeitronix has 2 outputs.

[K3719er]

I'm near Olympia in WA.

Any thoughts on the Innovate LC-2 kit?