removing driver side window.

[Bardo]

Need to pull the driver side window from my 86 lancer. I looked through my fsm and it didn't really tell me what needs done. Scan anyone give me some advice?

[supercrackerbox]

Never done a Lancer, but on Daytonas, Shadows, and Chargers you simply remove the door panel and crank the window up/down as needed to remove the nuts that bolt it to the mechanism, and carefully lift it out. If you have electric windows, you can plug the switch back in to move the window.

[Bardo]

I dont see any bolts also its electric but the motor is bad and the clips on the bottom of the window broke.

[supercrackerbox]

Sorry. Nuts, not bolts. What you'll be looking for is studs that go through the glass along the bottom edge. They're usually in large plastic circles in the glass.

[Bardo]

Are the bolts on the back side of the glass facing the outside door skin?

[Bardo]

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d30/ajbardo/20140422_150852_zpsfcht4upt.jpg (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/ajbardo/media/20140422_150852_zpsfcht4upt.jpg.html) this is what I have so im guessing I need to drill them out?

[Fox]

you shouldn't have to drill anything, i usually roll the window partway down the pull on the window toward the front of the car wile pushing the front portion of the glass downward, this will pull the window out of the tracks, then you turn the window at a 90 degree angle and lift it out of the door

[135sohc]

^^^yup. Sounds scary at first but that is the only way your going to get those plastic guides unsnapped from the guide channel they ride in.

[Bardo]

Ok. I need a new one any ways. The roller for the power window belt broke.

[Bardo]

anyone have the piece that goes to the bottom of the window that rides in the window track?

[clocktowersniper]

I think its riveted from what I remember. Its been a long time. The bottom should have rivets that need to be drilled out and it might have guide clips in the side run channel that snap out. I know the shadows and spirits have those. And in the picture, Yes its a rivet and needs to be drilled. You can reinstall with rivets or you can sub a nut and bolt.

[Bardo]

Ok so to get the window out I can pop it out but to get the bottom off I need to drill it out correct?

[clocktowersniper]

To get the bottom off the lift channel you need to drill the rivets out. If you do not have a rivet bit then take a small punch and knock the center rivet stud out then drill out the rivet with a drill bit. If you choose not to re rivet the glass, You still need to use the plastic washers so you don't break the glass when tightening it down. Remember, Snug not tight or BOOM! If it has guide clips in the side channels, Lower the regulator to the bottom after removing rivets allowing the glass to be slid by hand. Grab the glass and give it a quick tugnoe down and forward and the clips will release.

[135sohc]

With the glass free from the side channel and just sitting on that plastic lift point slide/guide thing can you roll the window fore-aft at all? just speaking out of similar experiences from being familiar with a P body it takes a bit of finess to find the right spot but you can roll the front or rear window glass on a P body after the plastic guides are unsnapped and lift it right out of the door. no drilling or anything.

[clocktowersniper]

Yep, It has clips:
http://www.cpidivisions.com/product/86-6056/

You can just snap them off the glass to put new ones on. The new ones have a mini brass crimp rivet. You can use a channel lock to press it together if you don't have the rivet tool. Just remember do not squeeze too hard or hit the glass with the pliers or BOOM!
I might have some left if you need them.

[clocktowersniper]

Well you either have to remove the glass from the lift channel or the regulator from the lift channel. Either way you are drilling rivets. Easiest way is to remove the lift channel from the glass so you are not trying to squeeze it out of the opening. It is the same set up as the AA Body and P body as well as old Dakotas. There is no drilling for the side channel clips. They just pop off.

[Bardo]

If by regulatory you mean the pw motor thats already done. The little pully that the plastic strip rides on broke so they are not together.

[clocktowersniper]

Can you take a picture of where the lift channel is attached to the regulator arm?

[Bardo]

Ill try tomorrow.

[minigts]

Need to revive this thread. Anyone has luck with the replacement plastic guides you can get from Clipsandfasteners? Seems the silver colored pin that I believe presses into the brass sleeve is too large and causes it to split when forced in. Having a hard time getting it to work as I expect it to.

Any advice is appreciated.


65587

The far right brass is the new one, the middle is the one that tore and the far left is the pin.

[cordes]

I think you press the like color portions together. I forget which ones I always use, but apparently, my first inclination is always correct. Sorry I don’t have a more definitive answer.

[minigts]

I looked at the one silver piece and I'm guessing it's a rivet that is squeezed to flatten down and the other is another type of two-piece rivet that presses together and not a three-piece set. I used the two-piece and it stuck together as expected so I just went with that.

If anyone has ANY lead on replacement weatherstripping or a company that can remake these, I'm all ears. My stuff was so brittle that it broke multiple places just removing and reinstalling the window.

[minigts]

Looks like a squeezer rivet gun is what is needed for the silver one, not sure if the same applies to the brass style, but the window is back in and works as intended.

[135sohc]

Universal Economy Hand Squeeze with 1" Yoke (3/16") (yardstore.com) (https://www.yardstore.com/riveting/squeezers/hand-squeeze/universal-economy-hand-squeeze-with-1-yoke-3-16)

New - Squeeze Sets - Squeezers - Riveting (yardstore.com) (https://www.yardstore.com/riveting/squeezers/squeeze-sets/new)

weatherstripping is a lost cause for our cars. there is plenty out there in the universal fitment that can be made to work though.

[minigts]

Universal Economy Hand Squeeze with 1" Yoke (3/16") (yardstore.com) (https://www.yardstore.com/riveting/squeezers/hand-squeeze/universal-economy-hand-squeeze-with-1-yoke-3-16)

New - Squeeze Sets - Squeezers - Riveting (yardstore.com) (https://www.yardstore.com/riveting/squeezers/squeeze-sets/new)

weatherstripping is a lost cause for our cars. there is plenty out there in the universal fitment that can be made to work though.



Thanks, I found a tool, but these links are great to have! So what other options have you found for replacements or at least do you have any suggestions? I contacted a company called Steel Rubber (I think that was the name) and they sent samples that look ok, but the stock rubber that is infused seems to be a small complication when integrating something new with the old.

[135sohc]

Fairchild has the outer belt line stuff. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3415263&jsn=282

Metro moulded makes a door seal offering for the first generation Grand Cherokee. The door seals on my 4dr Shadow are from a first gen grand cherokee I swapped in years ago. Same cross profile as the original P body so they actually fit and they close like they should.

https://metrommp.com/seals/

[cordes]

I use knipex cobra head pliers to install those rivets. They have just enough clearance for the lip to clear

[minigts]

For this I used a pair of channel locks and some flat pieces of metal to not damage the fastener. Next time I would want to have the right tools.