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boostedsohc
03-12-2014, 02:38 PM
I am actually coming from the 3000GT/Stealth Platform. I had a 97 3000GT VR4 for some time then sold it and replaced it with a 93 Stealth SOHC and I currently DD an 08 BMW 535xi. So on to the big single build project... I made a decision in the summer of 2013 to pursue an effort to turbocharge the SOHC engine. In the process, it has definitely been interesting and costly, but I am confident in my design and hope it comes together soon.

So some big highlights:
Borg Warner S363 Standard T4 anti-surge cover, .88 A/R 90 degree snout
CX Racing 8PSI 38mm External wastegate and screamer pipe
Synapse Synchronic BOV
Built SOHC engine with Wiseco forged pistons, Ninja Performance Chromoly Forged H-Beam rods, ARP Head studs and Main Girdle studs, Brian Crower 264 cams, new stock sized valves, mild polish on heads
Frozenboost Water/Air 90 degree intercooler with heat exchanger and ice box with Bosch Cobra Water pump and 3/4 inch water lines
Megasquirt II for ECU


The goal is to make as much power as possible out of this engine. The shortblock will be back soon and then the heads will go out for cleaning and polishing and then the entire engine will be assembled. My struggle has been looking for exhaust manifolds that direct the exhaust horizontally versus vertically. I think I may have found an answer; to use 350Z exhaust manifolds and cut the flanges off and weld on SOHC flanges. From there I just need to create the crosspipe to both manifolds and then weld the T4 flange and external wastegate. Once the manifolds are built on my mock-up engine, then the mock-up engine can be removed and the new engine can be installed in place.

iTurbo
03-12-2014, 07:20 PM
By SOHC do you mean the 2.0L SOHC 16v engine from the Neons? Usually when people say SOHC here, they mean the old 2.2/2.5 8v engines.

boostedsohc
03-12-2014, 10:16 PM
By SOHC do you mean the 2.0L SOHC 16v engine from the Neons? Usually when people say SOHC here, they mean the old 2.2/2.5 8v engines.

No, 6G72 3.0L SOHC

Reaper1
03-13-2014, 02:24 PM
Maybe I've just been out of 3.0's too long, but since when are there "off-the-shelf" cams available outside of RPW? I think all the people I know of that have non-stock (meaning non-Mitsubishi) cams have all been custom re-grinds.

If the engine was turned around 180* (belts on the passenger side), then there is an option for the manifolds and cross-over pipe to adapt a turbo. Since the engine is turned the other way in a 3Si, I'm not 100% that they would work. Brent (Ondonti) would probably be your best resource for this information, besides the guy that makes those pipes (I think it was Kelly Mulhern).

I do know that there have been a couple of people that have adapted aftermarket headers for other applications to these engines in the manner you are talking about.

It sounds like you have a nice build. As long as the tune is good and the turbo can support it, we know 500+ is completely possible (that was done with a partially blown headgasket IIRC).

iTurbo
03-13-2014, 02:41 PM
By SOHC do you mean the 2.0L SOHC 16v engine from the Neons? Usually when people say SOHC here, they mean the old 2.2/2.5 8v engines.

Ha, my bad. I did not realize at all this was the V6 forum!:o

Ondonti
03-13-2014, 08:51 PM
Maybe I've just been out of 3.0's too long, but since when are there "off-the-shelf" cams available outside of RPW? I think all the people I know of that have non-stock (meaning non-Mitsubishi) cams have all been custom re-grinds.

If the engine was turned around 180* (belts on the passenger side), then there is an option for the manifolds and cross-over pipe to adapt a turbo. Since the engine is turned the other way in a 3Si, I'm not 100% that they would work. Brent (Ondonti) would probably be your best resource for this information, besides the guy that makes those pipes (I think it was Kelly Mulhern).

I do know that there have been a couple of people that have adapted aftermarket headers for other applications to these engines in the manner you are talking about.

It sounds like you have a nice build. As long as the tune is good and the turbo can support it, we know 500+ is completely possible (that was done with a partially blown headgasket IIRC).
I am pretty sure this is "Boost4VR4" from 3si.org He seems to be making steady progress.

There are cams out there from multiple vendors but the prices can be outrageous for simple regrinds. I would not bother sharing that info since I don't know anyone here who wants to spend much of anything :(

I have a set of 350z manifolds that would hopefully go on this year for test fitting, had them 2+ years. 3000gt has a lot more space then we do and 350z manifolds have been used before. I don't plan on removing the flange unless I can't redrill them.

Reaper1
03-14-2014, 01:46 PM
Wow...I have been out of 3.0's too long! I had no idea there were actual aftermarket cams available! LOL Good to know...maybe one day I'll actually have to be in the dilemma whether to spend $ on regrinds or off-the-shelf. LOL

boostedsohc
03-14-2014, 02:46 PM
I am pretty sure this is "Boost4VR4" from 3si.org He seems to be making steady progress.

There are cams out there from multiple vendors but the prices can be outrageous for simple regrinds. I would not bother sharing that info since I don't know anyone here who wants to spend much of anything :(

I have a set of 350z manifolds that would hopefully go on this year for test fitting, had them 2+ years. 3000gt has a lot more space then we do and 350z manifolds have been used before. I don't plan on removing the flange unless I can't redrill them.

Yep that's me. I thought I'd join the Mopar board to get more information on the 3.0s and what the Mopar gents are doing with them.

I bought the Brian Crower cams from a board member for 135 shipped, but from BC, they run about 180. BC also has a 272 profile and I believe they have made a few one offs with a 280 profile.

I have been making some progress, I should get some photos posted sometime, it's been an interesting road.

Tonight I want to get the intercooler plumping finished and get the water pump tested through the heat exchanger and see if there are any leaks.

The car is a tin can at the moment, it's staying that way. Eventually it will get a complete cage, new racing seats, and fire extinguisher system, but for now, I'm just trying to progress through the build process.

I have high hopes for the build. The engine is being built pretty stout, most people tell me I am crazy. I tell them, we all are, what's the difference?

I am going kinda simplistic when it comes to boost control. I don't feel like messing around with boost controllers and the like, so I decided that I am going to use wastegate boost. I have 2 External wastegates, so the 8PSI wastegate will be the baseline, then the 16PSI wastegate will be for high boost. The goal is to have 4 tunes, 2 E85 Tunes and 2 pump gas tunes.

Ondonti
03-15-2014, 06:06 PM
I didn't know they were that cheap. 3sx had some sohc cams that were very very expensive that I don't think anyone ever bought.

boostedsohc
03-16-2014, 08:45 PM
I didn't know they were that cheap. 3sx had some sohc cams that were very very expensive that I don't think anyone ever bought.

The previous owner that I bought these cams from got them from BC direct.

Today I accomplished the placement of the heat exchanger and just rested the water/air intercooler in the bay where it will sit. Bumper should mount just fine with the heat exchanger behind the crash bar, but may have to trim the bumper a little bit if it is in the way.

boostedsohc
03-18-2014, 01:10 PM
Ordered some ebay 350Z stainless steel exhaust manifolds for testing the turbo mock up and placement.

Force Fed Mopar
03-18-2014, 05:09 PM
What's the lift and LSA and centerline on those cams? I don't see the SOHC listed on their website...

boostedsohc
03-18-2014, 05:44 PM
264/264 .390 Lift. You have to call for these cams. They are regrinds.

boostedsohc
03-21-2014, 04:07 PM
Ordered Megasquirt II for 6G72 SOHC engines.

Force Fed Mopar
03-21-2014, 04:27 PM
264/264 .390 Lift. You have to call for these cams. They are regrinds.

Sounds very close to my custom Crower cams in Project LookOwt.

Reaper1
03-21-2014, 04:50 PM
Sounds very close to my custom Crower cams in Project LookOwt.

I can't say for certain, but I think those cams were some of the very first regrinds done for the SOHC 6G72 in the U.S. considering they were done in the mid-late 90's IIRC. Knowing that, it wouldn't surprise me if they based a "production" cam card off of them. I can't remember where Brent got his done, but heck, I wouldn't be surprised if there are cams available that are very close to his as well. (keep in mind I am leaving out RPW simply because their stuff was never really that available in the 'States)

boostedsohc
03-28-2014, 04:24 PM
Got the Megasquirt stuff. Should be fun playing around with this.

Sundance 6g72
04-04-2014, 02:07 PM
:thumb:

boostedsohc
04-04-2014, 02:50 PM
Here's some eyecandy :)

Engine pics from machinist and builder:

http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/20140403_231813.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/20140403_231813.jpg.html)
I already asked about why there are only 12 head studs when there should be 16 as well as if there are included nuts for the head studs since the OEM head studs are basically long bolts and these are a different design. Also the knock sensor that the DOHC engines have has been tapped into the block in basically the same location as the DOHC engines which will be very helpful.
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/20140403_231912.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/20140403_231912.jpg.html)
Ninja Performance Chromoly Connecting rods are in there and the Wisecos are in there too.

Will be dropping off the heads, valve guides, valve seats and the associated cylinder heads hardware off to machinist for a cleaning and to press in the guides and seats. I will assemble the heads with the new cams and associated valves and hardware.

Found out that everything is well, the other studs are not installed because the dowels are not in place. The hardware is included as well.

Sundance 6g72
04-04-2014, 03:06 PM
Im not sure if it was covered yet but what will you be going with for valve springs, locks, and retainers?

Also, glad to see the knock sensor. You seem to be more than capable but if you need help with a basemap and other megasquirt related settings, feel free to ask. Plenty of us are running an MSII

boostedsohc
04-04-2014, 03:12 PM
Im not sure if it was covered yet but what will you be going with for valve springs, locks, and retainers?

Also, glad to see the knock sensor. You seem to be more than capable but if you need help with a basemap and other megasquirt related settings, feel free to ask. Plenty of us are running an MSII

For now I am sticking with stock valve train, but cams will be 264/264. If you have a basemap for the MSII, that would be super helpful, I am trying to get all of the settings configured, I have been playing with it a little bit with the MegaStim, but there are settings that aren't covered in a lot of detail for the 6G72 outside of the timing.

Reaper1
04-04-2014, 03:53 PM
That is a strange deal with the head studs. They should come with the nuts/washers (if there are washers). I can't say for certain because I haven't seen the raw data, but it's been said a few times that the factory bolts are better than the ARP's. It might be the main cap cradle bolts...I can't honestly remember. Brent I think knows the deal with that.

Sundance 6g72
04-04-2014, 03:54 PM
Ill put something together and send it to you over the weekend.

If you have not read about it yet, i recommend you do. We have been using valve springs from a dodge 3.3L and retainers/locks for an LS1. That combo seems to work much better than stock while being very cheep (under $50 for me)

boostedsohc
04-04-2014, 04:03 PM
That is a strange deal with the head studs. They should come with the nuts/washers (if there are washers). I can't say for certain because I haven't seen the raw data, but it's been said a few times that the factory bolts are better than the ARP's. It might be the main cap cradle bolts...I can't honestly remember. Brent I think knows the deal with that.

They do come with the hardware

The ARP studs can handle up to 200,000 PSI, not sure what the specs are on the stock setup, but I am assured they are much stronger than the stockers. And apparently the machinist/builder hadn't installed the remaining 4 head studs because the dowel pins were missing.

- - - Updated - - -


Ill put something together and send it to you over the weekend.

If you have not read about it yet, i recommend you do. We have been using valve springs from a dodge 3.3L and retainers/locks for an LS1. That combo seems to work much better than stock while being very cheep (under $50 for me)

I will have to do a search on the forums here and read about it. Sounds like an inexpensive insurance policy that I will be considering.

boostedsohc
04-05-2014, 09:28 AM
Here's some better pictures of the engine. It looks like the builder took a lot out of the crankshaft and it also looks like he drilled too close to another hold on the crankshaft, see if you can spot it.
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0011.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0011.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0010.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0010.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0009.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0009.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0007.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0007.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0006.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0006.jpg.html)

Sundance 6g72
04-05-2014, 02:08 PM
Most of us cheep guys will agree that stock bolts are plenty strong for most peoples goals. I know some Russian 3s car made over 1000awhp with stock headbolts. If you have the money, I guess I see no reason to not go with ARP.

Reaper1
04-05-2014, 05:46 PM
The holes in the counterweight of the crank are no biggie. Yeah, it looks strange, but it shouldn't cause any issues as they aren't deep enough to get into an oil galley.

If they balanced it with bob weights (they should have), then the new rods/pistons are quite a bit lighter than the OEM ones. That's part of the reason for the amount of weight taken out.

Sundance 6g72
04-05-2014, 06:03 PM
These are the project files for my engine. I included two folders; 2012 and 2013.

2012
- E85
- Stock Cam
- Custom hear exhaust header
- ported Chrysler upper intake with half inch spacers.
- 2.5inch downpipe with 3inch exhaust
- lots of timing at 15psi (I think more than necessary). This was the difference between 300hp and 315hp however.
- BIG intercooler (3inch piping)
- AFR was 12.5-11ish, cant remember.
- 46 (or 48) lb injectors at stock fuel pressure (whatever that is)
- walbro 255 with stock lines
- 3.3 valve springs and LS1 retainers and locks?
- 1993 pistons (slightly lower compression)

2013
- 270 degree cams offered by 'turbovanman'
- E85
- timing relaxed a bit for safety concerns.
- fuel map and timing map extended to fit more boost (I only ran 8psi because my injectors were too small to run anything more with the big cams)
- everything else the same.

The tune should not just be uploaded to your ECU. Firmware differences will come into play and mess things up. Its best to copy settings over setting by setting and then import the fuel/timing/afr maps over if you want. Anyone can download these, im all about open source.

*Disclaimer* I started tuning this thing at age 18 knowing absolutely nothing. Im 21 now and still have much to learn about tuning so dont think his was professionally done. My tunes got me to school and work for 2-3 years so id say I did a decent job. Use at own risk :)

link is to my dropbox, it should work https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y607qimo0137kf/Sundance_%206g72_Tunes.zip



edit: also note that I use e85. You can get pretty close to 93 octane numbers by pulling exactly 30% of the fuel from the fuel map (thats how I did it) or you can mess with the "required fuel" settings to pull 30% fuel. I found that taking 30% from the fuel map was the easiest because I could import an export the correct map for whatever fuel I was running that week. Also note, the timing for e85 is much more aggressive above 100kpa than I would have ran with e85. Im not sure how much timing I pulled when running 93oct, use at your own risk. The meth should help a ton as you know.

boostedsohc
04-05-2014, 08:36 PM
These are the project files for my engine. I included two folders; 2012 and 2013.

2012
- E85
- Stock Cam
- Custom hear exhaust header
- ported Chrysler upper intake with half inch spacers.
- 2.5inch downpipe with 3inch exhaust
- lots of timing at 15psi (I think more than necessary). This was the difference between 300hp and 315hp however.
- BIG intercooler (3inch piping)
- AFR was 12.5-11ish, cant remember.
- 46 (or 48) lb injectors at stock fuel pressure (whatever that is)
- walbro 255 with stock lines
- 3.3 valve springs and LS1 retainers and locks?
- 1993 pistons (slightly lower compression)

2013
- 270 degree cams offered by 'turbovanman'
- E85
- timing relaxed a bit for safety concerns.
- fuel map and timing map extended to fit more boost (I only ran 8psi because my injectors were too small to run anything more with the big cams)
- everything else the same.

The tune should not just be uploaded to your ECU. Firmware differences will come into play and mess things up. Its best to copy settings over setting by setting and then import the fuel/timing/afr maps over if you want. Anyone can download these, im all about open source.

*Disclaimer* I started tuning this thing at age 18 knowing absolutely nothing. Im 21 now and still have much to learn about tuning so dont think his was professionally done. My tunes got me to school and work for 2-3 years so id say I did a decent job. Use at own risk :)

link is to my dropbox, it should work https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y607qimo0137kf/Sundance_%206g72_Tunes.zip



edit: also note that I use e85. You can get pretty close to 93 octane numbers by pulling exactly 30% of the fuel from the fuel map (thats how I did it) or you can mess with the "required fuel" settings to pull 30% fuel. I found that taking 30% from the fuel map was the easiest because I could import an export the correct map for whatever fuel I was running that week. Also note, the timing for e85 is much more aggressive above 100kpa than I would have ran with e85. Im not sure how much timing I pulled when running 93oct, use at your own risk. The meth should help a ton as you know.

Thanks for sharing this. I was following your build on Xceedspeed for awhile and then I got banned and didnt come back because I didn't feel like being involved in any more drama.

I know that the stock head bolts are pretty beefy and would probably work, however, I am building this with reliability in mind as it's going to be a track car and I want it to be reliable. I want to build it once and that's it for awhile, it will be abused a lot. That is why I am running only wastegate boost (no fancy boost control necessary here) and I want a solid static tune for each wastegate.

Ondonti
04-06-2014, 07:14 AM
Stock bolts are great and the only real upgrades are tool steel studs (A1 custom made and also ARP supposedly has an option, arp2000 is not tool steel). Already purchased so whatever. I reuse stock headbolts and don't look back :P I still don't know any reliable torque specs for ARP2000 with moly lube on a 6g72. Call Ray because there is probably a better # then whatever the shop or you might come up with.

I think a balanced crank goes a long way for protecting the bearings. My built block in storage had weight added to the crank because I had reconditioned stock rods and much heavier giant oversize pistons. 6g72's seem to have harmonic problems at high HP. Eventually your main bearings become unhappy as hp rises and tune and/or balance is off.

Force Fed Mopar
04-07-2014, 09:38 AM
Your cams sound like they are probably based off mine :)

49509

boostedsohc
04-14-2014, 05:41 PM
Thanks for putting the cam card out there, that will be helpful when I degree the cams on the bench.

I have an interesting direction with the car, I hope you all can appreciate this direction.

I have always had the thought in my head "Wouldn't it be nice to just pull a plug on the engine harness and yank the engine with all of the sensors, senders, etc still connected to the components on the engine?" Well, that will now be a reality.

I am working with Milspec connectors. I will have a firewall mounted Milspec receptacle that leads to the ECU. The harness coming from the engine will be a Milspec and be connected to all of the sensors. The idea is connect all of the sensors, senders, etc to the engine and then plug it into the firewall. When I want to yank the engine, then I just yank the single connector then yank the engine.

Everything came today, so I will be messing around with the connector and seeing how the pins work, etc.

I am also replacing all of the basic Distribution fuses in the car with push button circuit breakers in a custom panel in the center console area. No more chasing fuses! I am going to finally begin working on the center dash. I already have gauges built to slide in a pocket, but I will need to build the center dash out.

Shadow24
04-15-2014, 10:17 AM
In retrospect, you probably could have used one or two of these - http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html

Otherwise, that sounds like a nice setup you have going with your wiring. I ended up leaving the harness integral to the body so =shrug=. hopefully I'm not pulling my motor THAT often!

boostedsohc
04-15-2014, 11:22 AM
In retrospect, you probably could have used one or two of these - http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html

Otherwise, that sounds like a nice setup you have going with your wiring. I ended up leaving the harness integral to the body so =shrug=. hopefully I'm not pulling my motor THAT often!

I am not touching the harnesses for the body like the lighting and such, just the engine harness is being modified.

boostedsohc
04-16-2014, 11:08 AM
I get the engine tonight, hopefully the cams drop in the heads with the dissimilar camshaft hardware and may not need to be line bored.

boostedsohc
04-16-2014, 11:11 PM
Shortblock and heads are back. Now it's time for assembly!

Oh, and we dropped the cams in the new heads and put the camshaft sliders, rockers, caps on and tested the camshaft rotation. Camshafts rotated with no effort at all even with the bolts tightened down so no need to line bore the heads.

Sundance 6g72
04-16-2014, 11:18 PM
From what I remember, that sounds about right. Cant wait to see this thing getting results.

Reaper1
04-17-2014, 03:57 PM
I've had the idea of simplifying the engine harness connection for a long time as well. A few people have pulled it off, but I personally think the best was how DJ did it. I'm using his effort as an inspiration/template for what I am going to do. The sensors and all are pretty easy. The problem is the alternator and starter. They require large gauge wires and plugs. Most quick connectors that have that many pins don't have room for that large wire. I'm going to end up with 2, possibly 3 large connectors to accomplish it, mostly because I had to find a way to be able to incorporate those large wires.

I'm very interested to see what you come up with. Please post pictures when you get a chance.

boostedsohc
04-18-2014, 06:42 AM
OK here we go. So I had a small hangup with a cylinder head which I will show for the sake of showing that I am human.

So here we go:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0015.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0015.jpg.html)
Here's the head for the back side:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0016.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0016.jpg.html)
Here's some of the grease supplied with the camshafts:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0017.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0017.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0018.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0018.jpg.html)
Here's the head that needs some additional work. Note the slider spring missing. I also did not put the lifters in just yet:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0019.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0019.jpg.html)
Let's work on the front head:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0020.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0020.jpg.html)
Greased, installed lifters, torqued to spec added loctite red to cam bolt, installed camshaft seal/cap.
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0021.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0021.jpg.html)
I had to tap a few of the rockers to align them on the valve springs.
Here's the cylinder head side:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0022.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0022.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0023.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0023.jpg.html)
Removed the old distributor seal and installed new seal:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0024.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0024.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0025.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0025.jpg.html)
I then put a large amount of assembly lube on the distributor drive:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0028.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0028.jpg.html)

Already sent an email out to Cherry Hill for rocker arm spring sliders and I needed a camshaft seal/cap as well.

Sundance 6g72
04-18-2014, 09:55 AM
I have springs if you need one, just let me know.

Ondonti
04-18-2014, 10:15 AM
I had to get a head line honed because I had the rocker shaft upside down on my first engine build and that blocked all oil flow to the camshaft. Seized and broke the cam pin off too! Only line honed the one that seized. The other one just looks really rough :P

boostedsohc
04-24-2014, 09:25 PM
Hit up the dealership, turns out idiots did not even come close to pulling the right parts.

So I am on the lookout for these part numbers:
MD150785
MD125669

Apparently MD125669 is hard to find at dealers, two dealers in the country have this part and 9 of this part total in the country.

http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/partneeded1of2.png (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/partneeded1of2.png.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/partneeded2of2.png (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/partneeded2of2.png.html)

Reaper1
04-24-2014, 10:27 PM
I can't tell what the first one is. Is it the end cam plug? If so, that is available from the aftermarket. The rocker shaft springs...two words:junk yard. It might be possible for them to wear out, but I doubt you will have any trouble with used ones unless the donor engine went through some serious hell. Or youcould do what the Ford 4.0 guys do and make precision solid spacers to eliminate the springs. However it has been argued that our engines really will not make any apreciable difference.

Sundance 6g72
04-24-2014, 10:33 PM
Like I said before, I think I have some rocker springs. Just let me know. As far as I can tell, their order does not matter but I may be wrong. Ive never had an issue mixing and matching the springs.

boostedsohc
04-25-2014, 10:03 AM
I can't tell what the first one is. Is it the end cam plug? If so, that is available from the aftermarket. The rocker shaft springs...two words:junk yard. It might be possible for them to wear out, but I doubt you will have any trouble with used ones unless the donor engine went through some serious hell. Or youcould do what the Ford 4.0 guys do and make precision solid spacers to eliminate the springs. However it has been argued that our engines really will not make any apreciable difference.
Yes, the cam end cap appears to be difficult to find OEM. The one problem with the junkyards in the area is they don't have a lot of 6G72 engines and especially SOHC 12 Valve engines, so I can't get a rocker spring.


Like I said before, I think I have some rocker springs. Just let me know. As far as I can tell, their order does not matter but I may be wrong. Ive never had an issue mixing and matching the springs.
If you have one, I would be willing to pay for it to be shipped.

Sundance 6g72
04-25-2014, 10:06 AM
Do you need one or two? Ill go check my pile of parts when I get a chance today.

We have loads of sohc g72 engines around here. Lots of the dodge vans had them.

boostedsohc
04-25-2014, 10:13 AM
Do you need one or two? Ill go check my pile of parts when I get a chance today.

We have loads of sohc g72 engines around here. Lots of the dodge vans had them.

I need one.

Maybe if you can find a camshaft end plug too...

Sundance 6g72
04-25-2014, 10:31 AM
I may have the plug too. Ill let you know soon

c2xejk
04-25-2014, 12:52 PM
If Sundance6g72 doesn't have the springs, I have some. Rockauto.com stocks the end plug http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2589488&cc=1089626 $2.60 per plus shipping. I may have some left over from head gasket sets.

Sundance 6g72
04-25-2014, 01:03 PM
I found some springs and a new cam cap. 49769

Sundance 6g72
04-25-2014, 01:03 PM
Just pm me an address and I'll just charge ya shipping

Edit:I posted a picture on previous page. That should be what you need.

Ondonti
04-25-2014, 08:07 PM
Problem with 3si.org is that they teach people to only buy OEM parts.

boostedsohc
04-27-2014, 11:28 AM
So while cleaning the pole barn, I found the missing spring for the camshaft assembly so I will put that on soon.

Not really care related, but thoroughly cleaned the pole barn and moved the car a little bit:

http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/temporary-27.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/temporary-27.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/temporary-28.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/temporary-28.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/temporary-29.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/temporary-29.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/temporary-34.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/temporary-34.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/temporary-30.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/temporary-30.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/temporary-31.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/temporary-31.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/temporary-33.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/temporary-33.jpg.html)

Sundance 6g72
04-27-2014, 10:39 PM
Well I have two springs in that package for you anyways haha. Along with the cam end plug.

I only had like 50 springs so its okay

boostedsohc
04-29-2014, 10:58 AM
Here's what I did on Sunday, not really much of anything, but fabricating the heat exchanger mount to the frame was a big deal. Cleaned up a few parts, cleaned the oil pan.

http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0440.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0440.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0439.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0439.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0437.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0437.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0436.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0436.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0435.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0435.jpg.html)

- - - Updated - - -

The stock sender is a placeholder for that spot for now, I need to get a special line run for that to the turbo oil feed. I also need to drill and tap the pan for the return line while I have the pan off.

I was mocking up a few things:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0441.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0441.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0442.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0442.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0443.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0443.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0444.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0444.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0445.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0445.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0446.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0446.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0447.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0447.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0448.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0448.jpg.html)
Pesky oil pump seal kept rolling over on itself, will need to use oil to lube the seal and prevent it from binding.

Reaper1
04-29-2014, 03:44 PM
Are you going to replace that oil pick-up? If not, I highly recommend it.

I also do not recommend having any RTV in the oil pan, or anywhere in the oil system. It has a nasty habit of the bond breaking down and then falling into the pan or plugging stuff up, which can lead to making a bunch of scrap.

boostedsohc
04-29-2014, 04:25 PM
Are you going to replace that oil pick-up? If not, I highly recommend it.

I also do not recommend having any RTV in the oil pan, or anywhere in the oil system. It has a nasty habit of the bond breaking down and then falling into the pan or plugging stuff up, which can lead to making a bunch of scrap.

67G72 engine manual says to use thin layer of RTV on gaskets and it is also recommended to use RTV on the entire oil pan.

The oil pickup tube is in good shape, I popped the screen out more and cleaned out as much sludge as I could. There wasn't any bearing material in this engine anywhere so I don't see a problem. Also you can't buy an Oil Pickup Tube anywhere.

Also, RTV black is oil resistant. RTV Red is a no-no.

Sundance 6g72
04-29-2014, 06:29 PM
You can get a gasket for the pan but its usually a pain to install. I prefer to rtv the oil pan into place just like the OEM did.

For the other gaskets I just copper spray them but im sure its unnecessary. I dont see a problem with RTV on them as long as its used sparingly. The stuff loves to spread out a good amount once tightend down.

Reaper1
04-30-2014, 01:46 PM
So what I meant, and maybe I wrote it wrong, was I don't suggest using RTV in suction or pressurized areas of the oil system.

Yes, the OEM seals the oil pan with RTV. I did the same when I resealed my engine. As long as it's used correctly, there's no problem there.

I have honestly forgotten how the oil pick-up is installed onto the oil pump. Does it have an o-ring in the receiver hole of the pump, or dies it rely solely on the flange and the seal between the flange and the pump?

RockAuto lists the oil pump screen by Sealed Power (PN 22415048) for $30.79. They list only 4 remaining. I don't know if that is all there is left, or that is all they have in stock before they re-order.

For matching machined surfaces that are to be sealed to each other, I prefer anaerobic sealant.

Ondonti
04-30-2014, 09:23 PM
He has the OEM style gasket there, and pretty much nobody uses gaskets except people who are used to working on other motors. I found that when I have oil leaks, its because of excess blowbye that is not being handled properly. My latest change in my exhaust crankcase evacuation setup that uses the OEM PCV system while idling cured up a bunch of oil leaks. Still can't get my turbo fittings to be dry.

boostedsohc
05-01-2014, 12:42 AM
So what I meant, and maybe I wrote it wrong, was I don't suggest using RTV in suction or pressurized areas of the oil system.

Yes, the OEM seals the oil pan with RTV. I did the same when I resealed my engine. As long as it's used correctly, there's no problem there.

I have honestly forgotten how the oil pick-up is installed onto the oil pump. Does it have an o-ring in the receiver hole of the pump, or dies it rely solely on the flange and the seal between the flange and the pump?

RockAuto lists the oil pump screen by Sealed Power (PN 22415048) for $30.79. They list only 4 remaining. I don't know if that is all there is left, or that is all they have in stock before they re-order.

For matching machined surfaces that are to be sealed to each other, I prefer anaerobic sealant.

The oil pickup tube having a thin layer of RTV behind the gasket promotes better sealing of the two surfaces. Also since the RTV is resistant to oil, it is suitable to use in this area. In the 6G72 manual, they recommend a thin layer of RTV. The oil pickup tube relies on the gasket, there isn't an o-ring of sort.

More progress made... Warning! NOTHING IS SET IN STONE AT THIS VERY MOMENT.

I didn't bolt the oil pan down yet because I am missing quite a number of oil pan bolts, so I need to order a new set. I put a few bolts in for now.
I didn't install my head gaskets because my head gaskets are not thick enough. The piston to head clearance is not met with the OEM gaskets, so I have to order custom Cometic head gaskets with a custom thickness.
Now that is out of the way:
Distributor shield:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0060.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0060.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0059.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0059.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0058.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0058.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0057.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0057.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0056.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0056.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0055.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0055.jpg.html)

And wire wheeled a few bolts. I got the oil pump seal to finally work without binding. I sealed the oil pan with RTV black, used a fairly tall, thick bead and let it set up for about 10 minutes before putting the oil pan on. I set the oil pan on the seal for a good 10 minutes before putting a few bolts into the pan. So far, so good, it's coming along, just taking my time, there isn't any rush on this. I didn't torque the rear cam gear yet because I need to take it off and install the newly painted distributor shield then put the cam gear on. I do realize that I am probably going to need to add some teflon tape to the sandwich plate plugs' threads and reinstall in the sandwich plate.

Sundance 6g72
05-01-2014, 09:34 AM
Im curious about the headgasket issue? Ive never heard of the OEM not working out BUT I also know nothing about piston to head/valve clearances either.

I am leary about cometic gaskets. I have not heard very many good things about their 6g72 options.

Ondonti
05-01-2014, 10:26 AM
Im curious about the headgasket issue? Ive never heard of the OEM not working out BUT I also know nothing about piston to head/valve clearances either.

I am leary about cometic gaskets. I have not heard very many good things about their 6g72 options.

I would like to know what diameter it is. I ran a 95mm cometic gasket when my bore was more like 93.5 and i wish the gasket was smaller since that hurts sealing ability when there is no reason to have that extra diameter.

boostedsohc
05-01-2014, 11:02 AM
The pistons protrude from the block deck .020" when they are fully extended which is fine, however, the OEM MLS gasket is .025" thickness not crushed, when it crushes, it will be approximately .023" thick. The machinist recommended at least a .040" thick head gasket set. The diameter of the cylinder bores currently are 91.65mm if I recall. OEM gasket is a 91.1mm.

The pistons hit the heads, the valves don't hit the pistons though.

I also didn't install the heads because I need a head alignment dowel for the one side of the block.

Sundance 6g72
05-01-2014, 11:14 AM
Just to be specific, what oem headgaskets were you trying? Do you know if there is a difference between oem SOHC and the DOHC MLS gaskets as far as thickness goes?

boostedsohc
05-01-2014, 11:29 AM
Just to be specific, what oem headgaskets were you trying? Do you know if there is a difference between oem SOHC and the DOHC MLS gaskets as far as thickness goes?

I measured my SOHC OEM gaskets and came up with this measurement. Are the DOHC and SOHC the same? I didn't think they line up?

Sundance 6g72
05-01-2014, 11:48 AM
There is some controversy over whether they work or not but I know Brent (ondonti) is a big fan of them and has used them.
I'm sure he will chime in

Ondonti
05-03-2014, 12:30 AM
I don't think turbo MLS gaskets are that thin. The weird OEM style MLS gaskets that are thin are not what I have ever seen anyone run. I have seen a 6g72 that had a set, it was a mitsubishi sohc I think.

From what I have recently learned, SOHC headgaskets have 1 passage that does not line up for a DOHC setup (which you can fix if you really want to when using composite gaskets) but DOHC still works on a SOHC, barely.

If you want an OEM gasket, use a turbo gasket. They are not 91.1 mm even though the piston is. They have room for OEM approved overbores etc.

boostedsohc
05-06-2014, 11:22 AM
So a little progress I suppose. Tonight was an experiment night. I wanted to see how much the head gasket that I had from the OEM kit would compress. This gasket is made of a composite paper, totally not ideal for my application, but I figured test with the OEM stuff. So the gasket is .030" thick, pistons protrude ~.020" off the block deck. I wanted to see how close the piston gets to the head.

I proceeded to use the ARP lube on the head bolts, nuts, and insides of washers. Put the head gasket on, put the head on. Tightened in the given order from ARP to first 35 ft/lbs, then 60 ft/lbs and finally 105 ft/lbs. I rotated the crank a few times to see how much resistance I had on the rotating assembly and had some on cylinder 1 but for the most part, normal across the cylinders. I then unbolted the head and removed the hardware and head. I took the head gasket off and measured it's thickness. The thickness was .029" which is not too shabby for a paper composite head gasket. The head showed no signs of piston contact, it did show some signs of compression of air though and the piston circles were clear on the head.

So .030" works, however, the paper composite gasket I am not sure is the ticket for my application. I need an MLS gasket. I am also going to go with a slightly thicker gasket, most likely a .045" thick gasket to maintain the squish area for combustion as well as provide enough head gasket thickness in the event the connecting rods lengthen their travel in the event of heat.

Sundance 6g72
05-06-2014, 12:36 PM
I wonder if OEM MLS is what you are looking for.

boostedsohc
05-06-2014, 02:14 PM
I wonder if OEM MLS is what you are looking for.

Yea, unfortunately the vendor I was trying to get in contact refuses to respond. I called them and they picked up but then they said send them an email and I have sent many and to no avail, nothing. I have to put the build on a short hold because I am going on a trip next week and also another trip in June so I have to save up for that.

Reaper1
05-06-2014, 03:35 PM
This might have already been covered and I don't remember: why are your pistons proud of the block's deck? Is the block shaved that much? Were the piston crowns made that thick? Were the piston pin holes too low? Were the rods too long? Different crank?

I know...lots of questions. I'm just wondering why as it really doesn't serve a purpose in this application.

boostedsohc
05-06-2014, 05:18 PM
This might have already been covered and I don't remember: why are your pistons proud of the block's deck? Is the block shaved that much? Were the piston crowns made that thick? Were the piston pin holes too low? Were the rods too long? Different crank?

I know...lots of questions. I'm just wondering why as it really doesn't serve a purpose in this application.

The pistons have a thicker crown due to the deeper valve reliefs to maintain piston/valve clearances. The machinist did not need to machine much of the deck as the deck was quite straight to begin with, mainly to shave the deck to have a clean and smooth surface.

The machinist recommended a little thicker head gaskets because the piston/head clearance is pretty small and as the engine is turning and heating up, expansion happens and the pistons could touch the heads. He's erring on the side of caution because it's a fairly pricey little setup going on right now. I'd hate for the pistons to hit the heads, any number of problems could occur.

2.216VTurbo
05-06-2014, 07:21 PM
Yea, unfortunately the vendor I was trying to get in contact refuses to respond. I called them and they picked up but then they said send them an email and I have sent many and to no avail, nothing. I have to put the build on a short hold because I am going on a trip next week and also another trip in June so I have to save up for that.

Any chance these are what you need? I bought a stack of Mopar gaskets last year and they were with them. Since I don't have any V6 stuff A(Mopar anyway;)) I've never bothered to see what they fit. I'd let em go for shipping cost only, they are definitely MLS gaskets...

Ondonti
05-06-2014, 09:55 PM
Alan, those look like gaskets from a 3.3/3.8 because of the rocker valley sealing area on each side (only familiar with 3.8/4.2L ford pushrod engines).

Get OEM mitsu from an online mitsubishi dealer like Cherry Hill if you really need to. There is even a 3si discount I believe.

But I would suggest milling down the piston tops so you can use any headgasket you want. Needing a deep valve pocket does NOT require having the piston be taller. That is asinine.

I would also not use an OEM paper gasket, the only paper gasket I would use is the composite Felpro. .054 Cometic is what I used on my built motor and that shortblock possibly has the same problem as you but thats only because I ordered the pistons with that headgasket thickness in mind.

wallace
05-07-2014, 08:05 AM
On the headgaskets, why not buy two sets of oem mls and disassemble them and combine to make the thickness you need?

Ondonti
05-07-2014, 10:11 AM
On the headgaskets, why not buy two sets of oem mls and disassemble them and combine to make the thickness you need?

There are different OEM MLS and he has the junky ones that nobody uses. Those are much thinner.

boostedsohc
05-07-2014, 12:17 PM
Come to find out the block deck was milled more than I thought... maybe a mistake? Also, come to find out that these are the DOHC gaskets which are MLS and they line up perfectly on just one head, the other head they don't line up perfectly. The block deck being milled a little more isn't a big deal so long as I can just pinpoint a little thicker of a head gasket set I will be set.

Ondonti, can you give me some clues where you get your gaskets? Cometic refuses to help me out and wants to charge me over 240 a gasket set which is insane.

Sundance 6g72
05-07-2014, 01:31 PM
what part does not line up on the one side? If i remember right, it lines up but is not perfect is all.

boostedsohc
05-07-2014, 03:18 PM
what part does not line up on the one side? If i remember right, it lines up but is not perfect is all.

Oil galleys and water galleys dont line up perfectly. Some of the gasket covers a water galley. I am sure I could cut the gasket to fit it but I would rather just get the right ones.

Reaper1
05-07-2014, 03:35 PM
Man, for the pistons to be proud .020" that's a LOT of milling or one heck of a thick crown! I wonder what those pistons weigh?

I think Brent mentioned that the DOHC gaskets can work with the SOHC heads with a slight modification to one of the coolant holes or something. I can't remember 100%.

boostedsohc
05-07-2014, 05:17 PM
Man, for the pistons to be proud .020" that's a LOT of milling or one heck of a thick crown! I wonder what those pistons weigh?

I think Brent mentioned that the DOHC gaskets can work with the SOHC heads with a slight modification to one of the coolant holes or something. I can't remember 100%.
Yea that's my thought too, however even with the DOHC head gasket thickness, the gasket is too thin and I run the risk of piston to head contact in the event of heat added to the mix (everything expands when hot enough)

I'd have to check, but the pistons were definitely much lighter than the stock cast pistons. The connecting rods are 90 grams lighter each than the stock connecting rods.

Sundance 6g72
05-07-2014, 06:19 PM
If you look around you can find some weight differences in the valvetrain that I posted a while ago. I used some cheep LS retainers and locks and compared them to stock. The weight savings was nice but could be improved with lighter valves and the lighter fancy LS parts that are out there.

Reaper1
05-08-2014, 02:11 PM
I know you've plopped a head and a gasket on the engine and checked to see if the piston hit the head. Have you used any kind of putty or clay to actually check to see how much clearance there really is? That might play in your favor.

c2xejk
05-08-2014, 04:37 PM
How about using some cylinder head shims in addition to the gasket. ie. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1809704&cc=1089693

boostedsohc
05-09-2014, 11:40 AM
I know you've plopped a head and a gasket on the engine and checked to see if the piston hit the head. Have you used any kind of putty or clay to actually check to see how much clearance there really is? That might play in your favor.

I am going to try that next.


How about using some cylinder head shims in addition to the gasket. ie. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1809704&cc=1089693

Nice, I never thought about that... Not sure how well it will seal.

Ondonti
05-09-2014, 07:56 PM
Oil galleys and water galleys dont line up perfectly. Some of the gasket covers a water galley. I am sure I could cut the gasket to fit it but I would rather just get the right ones.

Who cares? Even the stock SOHC paper gasket doesn't line up perfectly. That and when it comes to coolant passages, you don't actually want high flow at all locations.


All that matters is that nothing is going to leak and all the passages needed are going to work. BTW, OEM MLS vs aftermarket MLS....they are not proven similar.

I already posted that I used DOHC cometic 95mm headgaskets (and that large bore is not needed). You don't need custom headgaskets. This has all been posted before in this very thread, I don't see a need to rehash it once again. Go back and read what happened already.

Here is an option which I cannot endorse but it exists. http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=779
"All gaskets are the stock .051" thickness." Which again means you don't have an OEM turbo headgasket so you keep skirting the real issue and real advice here. I will note that those are not OEM headgaskets either.

I don't remember your bore size, the thickness of all the headgaskets you have tried. I don't know why anyone would mill much of anything off a 6g72 deck.

The big hp builds often put a small taper on the top of the piston and then use a stock OEM MLS turbo gasket.

boostedsohc
05-10-2014, 08:02 PM
Who cares? Even the stock SOHC paper gasket doesn't line up perfectly. That and when it comes to coolant passages, you don't actually want high flow at all locations.


All that matters is that nothing is going to leak and all the passages needed are going to work. BTW, OEM MLS vs aftermarket MLS....they are not proven similar.

I already posted that I used DOHC cometic 95mm headgaskets (and that large bore is not needed). You don't need custom headgaskets. This has all been posted before in this very thread, I don't see a need to rehash it once again. Go back and read what happened already.

Here is an option which I cannot endorse but it exists. http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=779
"All gaskets are the stock .051" thickness." Which again means you don't have an OEM turbo headgasket so you keep skirting the real issue and real advice here. I will note that those are not OEM headgaskets either.

I don't remember your bore size, the thickness of all the headgaskets you have tried. I don't know why anyone would mill much of anything off a 6g72 deck.

The big hp builds often put a small taper on the top of the piston and then use a stock OEM MLS turbo gasket.

Here's what I bought, I bought the full engine gasket set:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=24097

I am going to check clearances with the piston and head , put a small piece of clay on the tops of the pistons and see where they end up. I will keep this up to date.

boostedsohc
05-12-2014, 12:11 AM
Everything checks out. I put some clay on the crowns and dishes on the pistons, installed heads, torqued head studs to spec, rotated the crankshaft a few times, removed the heads and checked the clay. Not a significant compression on the clay inserted, the crowns have plenty of clearance.

So with that, I installed head gaskets, heads are torqued to 105 ft/lbs according to ARP, water pump, LIM, fuel rails with stock injectors (placeholders for now) and cleaned up the old water pipe and water pipe elbow off the engine that is in the car and painted them flat black. I will install new o-rings afterwards. I have the timing tensioner installed in place, spring is on for now, will remove when I get around to getting the rest of the parts I need to finish up. Will install water pipe into place and the elbow as well as install the engine temp sensor from my gauges into the thermostat housing. I need to consult the manual to see what the other sensor was in the thermostat housing. Pics will be coming soon.

Sundance 6g72
05-12-2014, 12:28 AM
the tstat housing has a sensor for the ecu to control the warmup enrichment and any timing or idle air valve related thing when the motor is cold. The single wire sensor is for the gauge cluster idiot light to warn when the coolant is too hot.

boostedsohc
05-12-2014, 12:32 AM
the tstat housing has a sensor for the ecu to control the warmup enrichment and any timing or idle air valve related thing when the motor is cold. The single wire sensor is for the gauge cluster idiot light to warn when the coolant is too hot.

I knew one of them was the idiot light. I guess I will just replace the idiot light with my engine temp sensor and use the other sensor for the ECU.

Sundance 6g72
05-12-2014, 12:41 AM
The ecu sensor is critical for the stock ecu and megasquirt.

Im a big fan of having an actual temp gauge that is accurate, however, megasquirt will receive a correct reading from the main sensor and can be viwed in real time via laptop or android device over bluetooth.

Keep in mind MS only works with certain coolant temp sensors. I use the Chevy sensor that is available on DIYautotune's site but I purchased it through autozone locally. MS has settings found in tunerstudio for calibrating your specific sensor. You can use Chrysler too but im not sure which year sensor.

boostedsohc
05-12-2014, 11:06 AM
The ecu sensor is critical for the stock ecu and megasquirt.

Im a big fan of having an actual temp gauge that is accurate, however, megasquirt will receive a correct reading from the main sensor and can be viwed in real time via laptop or android device over bluetooth.

Keep in mind MS only works with certain coolant temp sensors. I use the Chevy sensor that is available on DIYautotune's site but I purchased it through autozone locally. MS has settings found in tunerstudio for calibrating your specific sensor. You can use Chrysler too but im not sure which year sensor.

I have the Engine Temp Sensor for the megasquirt that I will install as well as my own gauge sensor. Wondering if I really need the idiot light...

Sundance 6g72
05-12-2014, 12:28 PM
I forgot to mention, the idiot light sensor also drives the cluster gauge if you have one (I'm sure you knew that). I'd rather have that working than just sitting there doing nothing.

c2xejk
05-12-2014, 12:48 PM
I believe boostedsohc is running a Stealth/3000GT, not sure if he has a gauge or not (I would think so) or how it is driven...

Sundance 6g72
05-12-2014, 01:59 PM
Im pretty positive the stealth intake I had has the same tstat and coolant temp setup that we have but I could be wrong.

boostedsohc
05-12-2014, 04:20 PM
Im pretty positive the stealth intake I had has the same tstat and coolant temp setup that we have but I could be wrong.

The thermostat housings are the same.

There is a plug on the top of the thermostat neck where all of the sensors are at that I can remove and add an additional sensor, which I may move the idiot light to that area.

Force Fed Mopar
05-12-2014, 08:08 PM
Stealth's use Mitsubishi sensors from factory...

Sundance 6g72
05-12-2014, 09:59 PM
Stealth's use Mitsubishi sensors from factory...

yes but with megasquirt you need to use the Chrysler or chevy sensor unless you know how to calibrate it. The cluster sensor looks super similar.

Ondonti
05-12-2014, 11:33 PM
yes but with megasquirt you need to use the Chrysler or chevy sensor unless you know how to calibrate it. The cluster sensor looks super similar.

I think the mitsubishi just has different looking plugs but has both. Have another one sitting in storage.
-------------

Buying a full gasket set doesn't mean you bought a TT gasket set since the dropdown menu has a million other options.

boostedsohc
05-13-2014, 11:18 AM
I think the mitsubishi just has different looking plugs but has both. Have another one sitting in storage.
-------------

Buying a full gasket set doesn't mean you bought a TT gasket set since the dropdown menu has a million other options.

I did buy the SOHC set as I have all of the gaskets required for the rebuild. Anywho, the engine is getting assembled, I assembled a lot of stuff last night then I dropped a bolt into the abyss and now have to disassemble to get the bolt out.

Sundance 6g72
05-16-2014, 12:04 AM
Sounds like typical progress haha

boostedsohc
05-19-2014, 10:30 AM
Engine is just about built... The bolt was found, I had to remove the water pump as it was sitting under the water pump outlet. The last thing to do on this engine is to pick up a few items that were lost in the shuffle/move of the engine from home to home and machine shop. Then I can put the timing belt on and start working on the wiring of the engine.

This weekend was spent in the Wisconsin Dells checking out the AutoMotion car show and hanging out with the 3/S crew in Lake Delton. Good times and then we took the cars out to BFE and hit the curves and straights, fun times. I had a close call, but no one was hurt.

boostedsohc
05-21-2014, 10:25 AM
Worked on some injector wiring last night. I am extending the harnesses a bit so I have a neater looking engine bay as the end result. So far so good, more to come.

boostedsohc
07-07-2014, 12:58 PM
Not a whole lot going on lately in this build. Been doing a lot of wiring and re-wiring. I did manage to get the air to water intercooler and heat exchanger setup where I want it. The icebox gets mounted behind the passenger seat, water pump sits just behind the passenger seat. The trick was the water pump was higher than the icebox so it could never draw any water (DUH!). Moving the icebox solved that problem. The way the hose is currently run (least complicated) pushes the water through the core and then goes to the heat exchanger, fills up the heat exchanger and when it overfills, goes through the return hose back to the icebox. I wanted to run straight to the heat exchanger and then the return would go through the intercooler, but it doesn't provide a lot of space. I need a large amount of space for the turbo stuff and I want to avoid melting the hoses with the exhaust manifolds.

It's getting there, the pictures haven't been coming lately because of a lot going on and I keep forgetting to bring the camera out.

Well, I am going to update this thread with some pictures tonight. In the meantime, I can provide an update.

Timing belt is on and timed right on the money. The SOHC timing belt is SUPER EASY. The new cams made it slightly difficult to time on the front bank. I threw on as just a mock up of all the engine as it will sit, the crank pulley, power steering, and alternator.I still need to remove the timing covers off the old engine and add to the new engine since the old ones are in good shape. I will need to remove all of the accessories to put the timing covers on, then just add the accessories back in.

All of the injectors have resistors wired on Pin 1. I will be extending the injector harness once the engine goes in.

Some work has been accomplished in terms of the wiring. I removed the ABS computer wiring from the passenger side harness. I essentially have just the fuel pump, tail lights, and reverse lights left. So from approximately 80 wires down to 10 wires. I will need to work on the driver's side next and then the wiring for the body and all of the essentials should be wrapped up.

I installed the new AEM Honda Style FPR on the fuel rail with the adapter kit as well as the new fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

Well, it's been awhile since I wrote but I did get quite a bit accomplished on the car.

The old motor has all of the harnesses disconnected from the various components, I installed the new ABS Delete Kit courtesy of NG Raffles (Thanks 3SX!). I bled the brake lines but it appears the brake rotors are so badly rusted that the calipers can't hold the rotors so I can pull the axles out of the transmission, so on to Plan B. I removed the long tube headers and I left the cat back installed. I think I am going to keep it on the car since it looks better. I painted some more engine components and hopefully next weekend I will have the old engine out of the car and the new engine in the car.

The only real big ticket items left on the car is all fuel related. I will need to drain the gas tank out soon and clean it out before dropping in a fuel pump and new injectors as there appears to be lots of gunk in the tank.

boostedsohc
07-10-2014, 11:55 AM
Cross drilled/slotted rotors and pads showed up yesterday. Waiting on reverse switch for the trans. Engine pull has been delayed a bit, will pull the CV Axles on Saturday and start cleaning up the wiring

Ondonti
07-10-2014, 12:12 PM
Everything works as long as you don't install. I had terrible problems with my built motor (first motor build too) because of a few things that I missed. I had no idea what I was doing.

boostedsohc
07-14-2014, 01:48 AM
Well let's see here. I got what I think is a lot, but most here would say otherwise, but alas, here's the rundown:

Front rotors are installed on the hub.

I screwed up a caliper, so I have two Centric calipers on the way. I wasted a lot of time trying to salvage the old calipers by cleaning them up and painting them, turns out, I probably should have scrapped them to begin with.

CV axles are pulled out of the transmission.

Engine will get pulled soon, just unbolt the motor mounts and lift it out, salvage some good parts off the old engine and then do some wiring and then drop the new engine in and wire it up.

boostedsohc
07-17-2014, 04:33 PM
76 lb/hr injectors on the way as well as new 320 LPH fuel pump, fittings, lines, and some miscellaneous transmission bolts.

boostedsohc
08-06-2014, 01:23 AM
Been awhile since I have updated:

Installed the 3SX inverted flare for the fuel lines:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0688.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0688.jpg.html)

Rough mock-up of heat exchanger and oil cooler with lines:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0689.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0689.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0690.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0690.jpg.html)

Mock up of thermostatic oil filter sandwich plate and lines:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0691.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0691.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0696.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0696.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0697.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0697.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0698.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0698.jpg.html)

Fuel pump and fuel hat assembled with hotwire relay ready to go:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0701.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0701.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0702.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0702.jpg.html)

New Fuel Filter and lines run:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0703.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0703.jpg.html)

Inverted Flare fitting for stock line to AN-6 and new line run for fuel filter:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0704.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0704.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0705.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0705.jpg.html)

Waiting on the last round of fittings to arrive.

Also Rock Auto sent another set of Powerstop front rotors and pads, I checked the warping and it still exists even on the new set:

http://1drv.ms/1zSC6Ya
http://1drv.ms/1qW2zDo

So I am sending all of the powerstop stuff back and getting my money back so I can rest assured that I get better rotors/pads.

Sundance 6g72
08-07-2014, 11:30 AM
I just installed some powerstop rotors on a car and they seemed fine, sorry about your luck :(

What all is involved when installing a fuel pump in a 3s car? Im thinking of ordering the walbro 400lph off 3sx but im confused about the install. Do I really need their instal kit to instal the pump? Do I also need their hotwire kit or is that something I can do up my self?

Ondonti
08-08-2014, 01:50 PM
Most 3/S members have problems doing things themselves so there is a good market for products that make things easy. This thread is not about easy hah!

What temperature does that oil housing open at?

Sundance 6g72
08-08-2014, 04:20 PM
im not sure I understand what that oil thing is

boostedsohc
08-11-2014, 12:10 PM
I just installed some powerstop rotors on a car and they seemed fine, sorry about your luck :(

What all is involved when installing a fuel pump in a 3s car? Im thinking of ordering the walbro 400lph off 3sx but im confused about the install. Do I really need their instal kit to instal the pump? Do I also need their hotwire kit or is that something I can do up my self?

I know, I have a powerstop kit on my BMW and I have had no issues. It's actually quite easy, just open the access door under the trunk floor, under the spare tire, unbolt the fuel feed line (carefully, or you will need to replace the line to the stock hardline) unbolt the fuel hat, pry it off the fuel tank, pull the whole assembly out and replace whatever you need, reinstall, maybe an hour job if you are unsure or being careful. The hotwire kit is literally a relay, some 8 gauge wire and some tapping and splicing into the original harness. You probably are better off buying the kit from Ninja Performance as you can't build the hotwire kit any cheaper than them unless you have free wire and a 12V Relay. You don't need the install kit if you know what you are doing.


Most 3/S members have problems doing things themselves so there is a good market for products that make things easy. This thread is not about easy hah!

What temperature does that oil housing open at?

I am not entirely sure, it's a mechanical thermostat. IIRC, I believe it will open around 180F, I would need to re-read the specs. Also, I just read that the minimum line size is AN-8. I have AN-6 lines run already, I believe it will be fine as I am not running a lot of pressure anyway.



im not sure I understand what that oil thing is

It's an oil filter sandwich plate with a thermostat in it. It is for running an external oil cooler. On the TT models, the housing has the thermostat and out and back lines for the cooler built in. On the NA, there isn't an oil cooler, so I had to add something since I am pushing it with a turbo.

Also I got the turbo oil drain hose built, fittings for the fuel rail came to finish that up, the oil cooler lines are finished, just need 2 more fittings to finish up the basics. This weekend is the goal for the engine pull. I have the clutch kit ready to go, transmission will come out as well and then cleanup of the transmission will ensue...

I did find a way to run the oil feed line to the turbo while also providing a method of installing the oil pressure sensor. I picked up a 1/8 to 1/8 Y adapter then went to Menards and picked up a 1/8 NPT straight brass section and installed it with some teflon into the oil filter housing. On one T, I have a 1/8 to AN-4, on the other T, I have the oil pressure sender installed.

Ondonti
08-12-2014, 11:00 AM
I have never had a lot of luck getting my brass fittings to seal against oil using the white thread sealer goop. :(

boostedsohc
08-12-2014, 12:14 PM
I have never had a lot of luck getting my brass fittings to seal against oil using the white thread sealer goop. :(
I wrapped a lot of teflon tape on the threads and threaded it in fairly far without stripping out the housing.

boostedsohc
08-13-2014, 11:11 AM
Monday I got the radiator fans installed on the radiator, dropped the fuel pump assembly in place.

So two small things accomplished last night. Got my three fittings, finished up the fuel bulkhead to stock hard line run and installed the line and installed the 1/4NPT to -4AN adapter fitting into CHRA housing on the turbo. Pretty small I know, but more to come, still working on a solution for mounting the oil cooler and the bracket for the heat exchanger.

Ondonti
08-14-2014, 11:35 AM
Kinda awesome to have threads on your OEM fuel lines. The dodges do NOT.

boostedsohc
08-14-2014, 02:43 PM
Kinda awesome to have threads on your OEM fuel lines. The dodges do NOT.

Yea the only trick is not destroying the hardlines trying to take off the rusty fittings. I lucked out and was able to spray PB blaster then carefully loosen the fitting. Once I got the fitting off, I took a wire brush to the fitting end and cleaned up the threads. Then I used a special fitting from 3SX (which cost a lot, but saved a lot of time) that is an inverted flare fitting to AN-6. I also use the same fitting for the fuel filter banjo loop to the hardline that Mitsu decided to use. That saved me from having to cut off the end and install a -6AN fitting with tube sleeve and re-flare the hard line. While it cost a lot, it saved me a lot of time and I feel that having the stock hard lines in place saves me a helluva lot of time on this build as well.

One thing to keep in mind is the fuel setup is pretty extensive, it may be more than the stock lines can handle. I much rather have that be the case instead of making the lines now, then have problems (SS AN lines are not easy to build) and then have to replace the lines. If I run E85 and start to see corrosion issues with the stock lines, then I can upgrade to the Teflon SS braided lines from front to back.

boostedsohc
08-15-2014, 10:08 AM
Power Steering cooler to replace stock:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0741.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0741.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0740.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0740.jpg.html)
Just fabricated some sort of bracket to mount this somewhere in the car.
Next thing I want to do is work on the T4 flange and the external wastegate fab work:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0734.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0734.jpg.html)
Fuel pump dropped in:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0706.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0706.jpg.html)
Turbo oil drain line made:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0708.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0708.jpg.html)
Turbo feed fitting installed in CHRA:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0709.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0709.jpg.html)
Turbo tag:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0712.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0712.jpg.html)
New fuel fitting for fuel rail:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0713.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0713.jpg.html)
Oil filter housing leveraging the area where the stock oil pressure sender was for oil pressure and turbo oil feed:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0714.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0714.jpg.html)
Radiator with fans dropped in and cleaned:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0716.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0716.jpg.html)
Space in between oil cooler and intercooler radiator:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0717.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0717.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0719.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0719.jpg.html)
To remove engine, remove bolts on:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0720.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0720.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0721.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0721.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0722.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0722.jpg.html)

boostedsohc
08-15-2014, 10:19 AM
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0723.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0723.jpg.html)
Pull the cotter pins out on these and disconnect:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0723.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0723.jpg.html)
Pull the hose out of the power steering and unbolt hard line from steering rack:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0727.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0727.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0728.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0728.jpg.html)
Interior so far:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0731.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0731.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0733.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0733.jpg.html)
Need to drill oil pan and have this bung installed for the turbo oil drain:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0735.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0735.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0738.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0738.jpg.html)

boostedsohc
08-31-2014, 09:53 PM
It has been awhile since the last update. Life happened and that took priority a little bit. So I decided today that it would be good to get some work done on this car. First thing is to yank the old engine out:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0742.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0742.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0745.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0745.jpg.html)
Typical 3/S human in engine bay:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0746.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0746.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0747.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0747.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0744.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0744.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0748.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0748.jpg.html)
The GF was playing with the camera as I was working on the old engine mounts:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0749.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0749.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0750.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0750.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0751.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0751.jpg.html)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0752.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0752.jpg.html)
I thought I would be cool and do it all in my sandals lol.

boostedsohc
09-02-2014, 11:42 AM
Well more accomplished today. Cleaned up the transmission a bit, pulled some of the bolts out of the transmission and then cleaned them up and re-inserted them back in the transmission 1 by 1. Cleaned out the bell housing as much as I could and pulled the fulcrum out, cleaned it up. Greased up the fulcrum detent and installed back in the transmission. I removed the old input/pilot bearing, greased the splines and the shaft for the pilot bearing. Installed the pilot bearing clip to the fulcrum and it's ready to go. Installed the motor mounts to the engine and the transmission. Added some other stuff to the engine that is needed and installed the brackets for attaching to the engine hoist. Will install the transmission to the new engine once it's off the stand and has a flywheel and pressure plate attached along with the clutch. I need to order a new transmission fill plug since the one that is on the transmission is chewed up a bit. Will snap some photos of the transmission attached to the new engine.

Ondonti
09-02-2014, 06:51 PM
After looking at your intererior pictures again, I realize you have a LOT of work to do before you will be enjoying this.
Hope you start breaking FWD transmissions sooner than later.

boostedsohc
09-03-2014, 10:25 AM
After looking at your intererior pictures again, I realize you have a LOT of work to do before you will be enjoying this.
Hope you start breaking FWD transmissions sooner than later.

All I need to do is wiring, the seats will go back in and then I need a cage but yea there's a fair amount of work left.

boostedsohc
09-08-2014, 04:34 PM
Well let's fast forward a bit to the end result of the weekend's work. I attached the flywheel. clutch disc with alignment tool, pressure plate to engine. I got the transmission on the new engine and used my new transmission bolts that I picked up for the reinstall. The transmission was on the engine pretty quickly. Then I set out to work on putting the engine into the car.
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0063.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0063.jpg.html)
The solid engine mounts were a little tough to work with, but the key I soon found out was to loosen up the bolts to the mounts a bit so I can move them around then position the engine in place, run the bolt through each of the mounts, then tighten the engine onto the mounts. Then go back and tighten all of the mounts into the frame.
Here's a wider shot of the engine as I started working through hooking stuff up:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0063.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0063.jpg.html)
Here's the mess on the firewall. Transmission isn't perfectly clean, but I am not that worried about it being super clean:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0065.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0065.jpg.html)
Then I ripped out the old engine harness:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0066.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0066.jpg.html)
Installed new Megasquirt ECU and new harness under passenger floor tray:
Then I worked on installing the new power steering cooler:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab253/kevpi1/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0061.jpg (http://s869.photobucket.com/user/kevpi1/media/Beater%20car/SOHC%20TURBO%20ENGINE%20BUILD/DSC_0061.jpg.html)
Then I stopped working on it. I need to look at wiring harness options as I am trying to minimize the wiring.

Ondonti
09-08-2014, 11:39 PM
My biggest headache with wiring a car from near scratch has been dealing with adding systems or even a single wire after the fact.

Shadow24
09-09-2014, 03:44 PM
My biggest headache with wiring a car from near scratch has been dealing with adding systems or even a single wire after the fact.

Especially after you have painstakingly wrapped the whole harness by hand. It isn't easy to add that one extra wire into the loom without re-wrapping the whole dang thing.

boostedsohc
09-10-2014, 06:43 PM
My biggest headache with wiring a car from near scratch has been dealing with adding systems or even a single wire after the fact.


Especially after you have painstakingly wrapped the whole harness by hand. It isn't easy to add that one extra wire into the loom without re-wrapping the whole dang thing.

A couple things I am doing to circumvent this is to leave the harness open and not sealed up. It goes against the notions of the original harness and being sealed against dirt, debris, water, etc. But the car is going to be a track car, i am not going to be driving this thing around all the time. I am going to leverage the use of the plastic harness trays on the sides of the interior of the car to facilitate a bit on the routing of the wiring, that should still allow me to modify the wiring but also keep the wiring hidden and away from curious people...

Force Fed Mopar
09-10-2014, 10:19 PM
Just use split loom w/ zip ties at junctions.

Sundance 6g72
09-11-2014, 02:49 PM
I would recommend wrapping the harness after you get it running. It can go a long ways to keeping the harness clean and not getting fried on something that gets super hot.

boostedsohc
09-29-2014, 11:12 AM
I have a couple questions for you Megasquirt guys. I am trying to understand how the Spark portion works with the distributor. The spark wire goes to the PTU, but the PTU has this capacitor thing wired to it and I want to know what to do there.

Also for the Injectors on the MS2, how were you guys firing the injectors with only 2 channels for injectors? Is there an additional addon needed for firing the last two injectors? I was thinking batch firing the front bank and the rear bank. On the stock ECU, it controlled all of the injectors separately.

Aside from these things, I got everything else wired in (except knock sensor).

boostedsohc
02-05-2015, 06:59 PM
Got the Knocksense module addon.

Tomorrow I should get my header flanges, t4 flange, and vband clamp kit.

Shadow24
02-08-2015, 10:29 AM
I have a couple questions for you Megasquirt guys. I am trying to understand how the Spark portion works with the distributor. The spark wire goes to the PTU, but the PTU has this capacitor thing wired to it and I want to know what to do there.

Also for the Injectors on the MS2, how were you guys firing the injectors with only 2 channels for injectors? Is there an additional addon needed for firing the last two injectors? I was thinking batch firing the front bank and the rear bank. On the stock ECU, it controlled all of the injectors separately.

Aside from these things, I got everything else wired in (except knock sensor).

Usually I have seen a capacitor on coil systems for noise control. As I don't have an MS installed on a 12v I'm not 100% positive this is the case.

On the injectors however, with an MSII you end up running in bank mode. I.e. cylinders 1,3,5 are connected to one injector driver and 2,4,6 are on the other. Unless you get an MS3 with 8 drivers to enable sequential injection, this is almost the best we can do. Do you know if your injectors are low or high impedance? This makes a big difference in connecting and controlling the injectors correctly.

boostedsohc
01-06-2016, 06:47 PM
It's been a very long time since I have updated this, but I have the car mostly finished with the exception of the turbo portion. The turbo was stolen and the megasquirt was stolen as well so I am working with my insurance company on it. The roommate is most likely the suspect. I am in the middle of the eviction process.

Ondonti
02-02-2016, 12:29 PM
Those are expensive pieces to replace! Probably the worst possibility!
Hope it works out, I want to see this working.