Crankcase Evacuation Systems for TIII's

[DoubleD]

I posted a discussion over in the main engine forum that kind of stopped and I never got my questions answered. Here is the discussion:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?71438-Crankcase-Evacuation-Discussion

How are you guys with the large horsepower TIII's and high boost engines venting your motors. I know I see lines coming off both valve covers, but what prevents oil for accumulating in the catch can? Seems like the oil is going right out of the engine and into the can, there is no seperator like the stock system. How are you handling the stock PCV system?
I want to get my car set-up right.
Thanks

[J&H Ryan]

I posted a discussion over in the main engine forum that kind of stopped and I never got my questions answered. Here is the discussion:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?71438-Crankcase-Evacuation-Discussion

How are you guys with the large horsepower TIII's and high boost engines venting your motors. I know I see lines coming off both valve covers, but what prevents oil for accumulating in the catch can? Seems like the oil is going right out of the engine and into the can, there is no seperator like the stock system. How are you handling the stock PCV system?
I want to get my car set-up right.
Thanks
Stock PCV routing basically, but with a Supra check and w/o that plastic baffle piece. As far as the oil, I may end up running it to the exhaust, but otherwise its just drain when full. If it goes out the breathers so fast that you are running out of oil, you have a bigger problem.

[iTurbo]

I'm sort of up against this issue now. I recently sold a '91 Spirit R/T to a friend and he has since upgraded the intercooler, turbo (50-trim/stgIII), fuel injectors, 3 bar MAP, SBEC etc currently pushing 20 psi at WOT.

Our plan so far is to retain the function of a the stock PCV as much as possible. Since the stock airbox is gone, we plan to weld a 3/8" bung into the pre-turbo intake piping so that hose will go there instead of the factory airbox. We may add the check valve too..

Other than that, I have a set of valve covers that I've had modified with 8AN weld-in bungs on the rear end (driver side). I have an ATP catch can and plan to vent both valve covers to that to handle crankcase gasses while in boost. We'll see how it goes from there..

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-ACS-018&Category_Code=BCS

[Shadow]

Here's what I've found; If the hoses/ lines your using are too small, or the filters for that matter, you will get a lot of oil in your catch can as your not "venting" the mtr enough and pressure it still building and moving oil out with that pressure.

IF your hoses and filter/ filters Are the right size, you will get almost No oil in the catch can because the mtr has no chance of building any pressure. It's venting as fast or faster than any pressure can build.

This was my theory years ago and I've never had anything more than oil residue in my catch box/ can over the last 6-7 years.

[DoubleD]

Any disadvantage to not running the plastic baffle piece? I don't think I will have room with my new fuel set-up. I would just run the hose from the block up to a tee, 1/2 would go to a breather filter and the other half to a Supra PCV Valve and then back to the Intake.

[DoubleD]

After a few comments and some late night thinking, I came up with this design at work. This will allow the fastest removal of pressure since there is a direct line from the block to the filter, then the gasses can be sucked out via the side of the tee, not much oil should make its way into the intake with this set up. I may make it with the machined center and pipe threads or use a 5/8" 90 and a tee with some hose.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k6/brmsnowboarder/IROC%20RT/PCVAssy_zps963f8098.jpg (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/brmsnowboarder/media/IROC%20RT/PCVAssy_zps963f8098.jpg.html)

[wallace]

You may have a problem with moisture getting pulled in through the filter. If you do you may want to run a length of hose to try and prevent that.

[DoubleD]

Very good point, wouldn't the filter keep moisture from being drawn in? If that is the case, I could put a one-way check valve between the tee and the filter to make sure no air is drawn through the filter.

[DOHCRT]

This set-up looks identical to the stock TIII setup minus the labyrinth. The stock PCV rubber fitting connects the block vent to the PCV valve with fresh air either open like yours (and all of mine also) or back to the airbox.

[wallace]

Very good point, wouldn't the filter keep moisture from being drawn in? If that is the case, I could put a one-way check valve between the tee and the filter to make sure no air is drawn through the filter.

You would need a valve that requires very little flow to open otherwise you would build pressure.

[DoubleD]

Finished my new pcv set up, i hope this theory works.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/04/9ysa9y5y.jpg

[Shadow]

Looks like a pretty small diam hose? How much boost/ power are you thinking of running?

[DoubleD]

That is the stock 5/8" hose, the smaller 3/8" hose goes from the supra pcv valve back into the intake manifold. Being the separator is gone, this is much more free flowing. Planning to make 400 plus wheel at 25-28 psi. Also have venting on both valve covers to a catch can.

[Shadow]

That is the stock 5/8" hose, the smaller 3/8" hose goes from the supra pcv valve back into the intake manifold. Being the separator is gone, this is much more free flowing. Planning to make 400 plus wheel at 25-28 psi. Also have venting on both valve covers to a catch can.

It should be fine. I thought the pic was your whole system lol

[2.216VTurbo]

Strange coincidence, got mine done save for paint yesterday too. 5 days til Vegas:eyebrows:...

[Pat]

On the crank venting, there's a big advantage in getting as much venting form the block as possible vs the top of the valve covers. You don't want pressure running up the oil returns when your supposed to have oil running down the oil returns. On the T3, you already have the nipple at the block, which helps with that. Venting the valve covers (like Alan did) along with the block pull would definitely help even further.

Not to thread jack...but Alan, can you send me a pic of what you did with the radiator/radiator support? PM or email me at pculkin at juno dot com.

Thanks!

[iTurbo]

I've been working on this today some. Since we have added a large turbo and eliminated the airbox, we plan to run 3/8" hose from the PCV elbow to a small catch can then run a 3/8" hose from that to a 3/8" nipple on the turbo intake pipe (vacuum at all times).

We also added a set of valve covers with 8AN bungs welded on the driver side and will route those to a larger catch can from ATP Turbo with a filter on top.

My thinking is: the small catch can with 3/8" nipples will control oil vapor while in vacuum in conjunction with the stock PCV valve. It should also help with the transition into boost thanks to the line going to the turbo intake side...
....while in boost, the vented valve covers and larger catch can (with filter) should control oil vapor/pressure while in boost.


At any rate, I will update this thread if it works out or not.

[DoubleD]

I will be adding updated pictures and a diagram when I completely finish my set-up also, and some info about how this set-up works on the car in action! Hoping for the best. I have a tried motor with excessive blow by in one cylinder and lower compression, so this is a great test bed to get it all worked out before I build another short block.

Updated with a diagram of my 2014 set-up:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k6/brmsnowboarder/IROC%20RT/PCVLayout4_zps5b1388d4.jpg (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/brmsnowboarder/media/IROC%20RT/PCVLayout4_zps5b1388d4.jpg.html)

[iTurbo]

Would love to hear what you find out with your set up!

The setup we are doing on a '91 Spirit R/T is just like the diagram posted above, except we are still running the stock TIII PCV tee and separator box, and have the 3/8" hose that used to go to the airbox to the turbo intake pipe (stock airbox deleted).

[2.216VTurbo]

Pretty much the same as mine Double, why the switch to the Supra valve, is it a better unit than the factory TIII PCV Valve?

[iTurbo]

Hmm Alan, I had to Google the 4532586 part number and it came back as Super 60 fuel injectors. You must have been busy that day.

Neat valve cover vent setup. It must conceal under the valley cover nicely. What is the part in the first picture in post #20?

[J&H Ryan]

Anyone run to the exhaust? Buddy does that and it works great he said. Something about the pull of the exhaust in addition to no can to have to drain too.

[2.216VTurbo]

Hmm Alan, I had to Google the 4532586 part number and it came back as Super 60 fuel injectors. You must have been busy that day.

Neat valve cover vent setup. It must conceal under the valley cover nicely. What is the part in the first picture in post #20?

Kinda pathetic but I honestly couldn't remember if I had 52's or 70 PPH injectors on the motor. been a few years and lotsa projects in between. so I wrote down the part number and well, you know the rest. The S 60's were at their limit at 15PSI, 70's now:)

[DoubleD]

Pretty much the same as mine Double, why the switch to the Supra valve, is it a better unit than the factory TIII PCV Valve?

I have read great things about the Supra valve, for one the OEM one from the Toyota dealer is all metal, they are also known to hold a lot of pressure back, you wont see an issue with the PCV leaking pressure into the motor.

[DoubleD]

I have been running my planned system for a couple of weeks now and I have not found enough oil in my catch can to show up on the sight hose. I also have not had the dipstick pop out yet. So far this system is working very very well.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k6/brmsnowboarder/IROC%20RT/CFE0DFDC-78EA-45FA-B7CB-50D8C3011C07_zpscjt3zed5.jpg (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/brmsnowboarder/media/IROC%20RT/CFE0DFDC-78EA-45FA-B7CB-50D8C3011C07_zpscjt3zed5.jpg.html)

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k6/brmsnowboarder/IROC%20RT/77BE3E0B-38EC-469B-8FCF-413AA3EFE10A_zpsp20t86go.jpg (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/brmsnowboarder/media/IROC%20RT/77BE3E0B-38EC-469B-8FCF-413AA3EFE10A_zpsp20t86go.jpg.html)

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k6/brmsnowboarder/IROC%20RT/CCFE6D2D-0710-4FA7-9E4C-680BB9C38815_zpsnlsdngl6.jpg (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/brmsnowboarder/media/IROC%20RT/CCFE6D2D-0710-4FA7-9E4C-680BB9C38815_zpsnlsdngl6.jpg.html)

[2.216VTurbo]

Wish I could make the same claim:o I drained about 6 Oz out after 8 dragstrip passes and about 100 miles of street driving at MATS last month. I get some huffing out the tank breather at idle I can feel, wondering if I have a ring or two on the new (like 500 miles) motor not seating:confused2:

[rx2mazda]

Wish I could make the same claim:o I drained about 6 Oz out after 8 dragstrip passes and about 100 miles of street driving at MATS last month. I get some huffing out the tank breather at idle I can feel, wondering if I have a ring or two on the new (like 500 miles) motor not seating:confused2:

I think your issue is design related....The problem I see is that your vent holes run parallel to the car. When you accelerate, the forces push the splashing oil in the front VC to the back cover(it sit lower which compounds the problem)and then out the back into the catch can. Thats why the vents should be perpendicular to the G-forces.

May not be bad during normal driving, but at the strip its gonna push oil hard

[2.216VTurbo]

I think your issue is design related....The problem I see is that your vent holes run parallel to the car. When you accelerate, the forces push the splashing oil in the front VC to the back cover(it sit lower which compounds the problem)and then out the back into the catch can. Thats why the vents should be perpendicular to the G-forces.

May not be bad during normal driving, but at the strip its gonna push oil hard

Hmm, I added a welded in splash shield to the rear VC that's larger than the opening and sits about 1/4" off the back wall. It keeps the splash out but I suppose if oil is puddled as high as the opening it would flow out. Openings are at the top of the covers tho.

After a long high vac decel(down a hill maybe) on throttle tip in I get a puff. After a long high RPM run(longer than 20-30 seconds) without boost it also puffs.

[iTurbo]

I have had a local shop modifiy several sets of TIII valve covers with 8AN ports near the top of the valve covers on the top edge to try to mitigate the problem. I'm hoping to use the free'est flowing hoses without many bends and the the hoses going upwards toward the ATP Turbo tank to try to help as much as possible. Will be testing this setup soon.

Test car has new rings on original pistons ('91 Spirit R/T). Doesn't seems to have blowby issues at all. But the stock PCV setup does seem to be "not cutting it". Right now the 8AN ports on the valve cover are simply capped, and the car isn't driven much. It does have an 'eBay' catch can where the PCV vent hose used to connect to the stock airbox and it seems fine so far despite running 20 psi boost @ WOT with a 50-trim T3/T4. We just have more testing to do..

[rx2mazda]

Hmm, I added a welded in splash shield to the rear VC that's larger than the opening and sits about 1/4" off the back wall. It keeps the splash out but I suppose if oil is puddled as high as the opening it would flow out. Openings are at the top of the covers tho.

After a long high vac decel(down a hill maybe) on throttle tip in I get a puff. After a long high RPM run(longer than 20-30 seconds) without boost it also puffs.

hmmm, might be your rings.

[Ondonti]

If its sucking oil vapor and not straight oil from a lack of drainage then sadface for the motor. Do a leakdown and compression test before freaking out more. How do the 4 spark plugs compare to the leakdown and compression check numbers?

[redlinegw]

Is there anyway of installing a catch can and eliminate that black pcv box but leave the valve covers alone? Anyone have pics?

[5DIGITS]

This was posted within another thread.
Although it requires valve cover mod's, it can be concealed and completed in a manner that's rather inconspicuous without the use of a catch can.

___________________________


Given the rear valve cover angle when referring to its top surface, cutting two parallel 1/8"x2.0" slits in the cover and welding on an external box is extremely effective.
Adding nipples within the valley area, between each valve cover, can be concealed below the valley cover and will equalize the front and rear valve train banks.
Finally, the new external box should have a 5/8" - 3/4" nipple and should be run to a modified turbo oil return tube with the same sized nipple "T" provision.
This will balance the system pressure, between head and block, while eliminating the need for a 'catch-can'.

[DoubleD]

Been critically thinking on this and trying many things, here is my current set up:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/07/03b64406c58436bbf39f60a9fc02d957.jpg
Fittings in the intake:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/07/5d146cbd78da4cee383e200740228212.jpg
Also hooked my extra boost/vac gauge to the oil dipstick to check for pressure/ vacuum:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/07/1e691636ed99fc9183be0b92c4fa1835.jpg
Not showing any oil in the intake after some spirited driving and maintaining an almost stock Pcv set up with a hose equalizing the pressure between the halves of the head and also adding pressure relief to the valve covers.
Going to move my gauge around and see what type of readings are elsewhere in the system.

[DoubleD]

This is working and now I want to add a 1" fitting on my intake to go to the catch can. Should I put my fitting straight into the intake, or should I have a 90 degree fitting in the intake to force the air to flow in the direction of air to the turbo. Which way will produce more vacuum?

[rx2mazda]

Doesn't matter if it's a 90, 120, 180... Use whichever is visually appealing to your eyes. :thumb:

[DoubleD]

You can kinda see in the above picture of my test pipe, I took a plastic 90 degree barb fitting and placed it inside the piping so the outlet was facing the the turbo. Will this give me more vacuum or will having the fitting perpendicular to the air flow not impeding the 3" intake airflow give me the same or more vacuum? I see a lot of pcv barbs welded onto intakes and it seems all they usually do is just weld a fitting right to the pipe, but I see when the exhaust evacuation is used, they have a slant cut fitting installed into the exhaust to help scavenge, I'm curious if any of this a applicable on the intake side.

[cordes]

You can kinda see in the above picture of my test pipe, I took a plastic 90 degree barb fitting and placed it inside the piping so the outlet was facing the the turbo. Will this give me more vacuum or will having the fitting perpendicular to the air flow not impeding the 3" intake airflow give me the same or more vacuum? I see a lot of pcv barbs welded onto intakes and it seems all they usually do is just weld a fitting right to the pipe, but I see when the exhaust evacuation is used, they have a slant cut fitting installed into the exhaust to help scavenge, I'm curious if any of this a applicable on the intake side.

So long as there is air flowing past it you'll be using the same principle.

[rx2mazda]

You can kinda see in the above picture of my test pipe, I took a plastic 90 degree barb fitting and placed it inside the piping so the outlet was facing the the turbo. Will this give me more vacuum or will having the fitting perpendicular to the air flow not impeding the 3" intake airflow give me the same or more vacuum? I see a lot of pcv barbs welded onto intakes and it seems all they usually do is just weld a fitting right to the pipe, but I see when the exhaust evacuation is used, they have a slant cut fitting installed into the exhaust to help scavenge, I'm curious if any of this a applicable on the intake side.

I know what your saying, still doesn't matter. You won't get any better vacuum no matter what angle it comes off the pipe. Exhaust evacs have the connector come off on an angle facing the engine bay because they know that the connection will come from the motor. If they put it at a 90 degree angle it would take more hose(and look stupid)or use of another angle fitting to make it fit good. Understand?

Edit: let's start a "go fund me" for a new intake filter for you. ;)

[cordes]

I know what your saying, still doesn't matter. You won't get any better vacuum no matter what angle it comes off the pipe. Exhaust evacs have the connector come off on an angle facing the engine bay because they know that the connection will come from the motor. If they put it at a 90 degree angle it would take more hose(and look stupid)or use of another angle fitting to make it fit good. Understand?

Edit: let's start a "go fund me" for a new intake filter for you. ;)

And they cut the fitting inside the exhaust pipe accordingly so that it's parallel to the flow.

[DoubleD]

I know what your saying, still doesn't matter. You won't get any better vacuum no matter what angle it comes off the pipe. Exhaust evacs have the connector come off on an angle facing the engine bay because they know that the connection will come from the motor. If they put it at a 90 degree angle it would take more hose(and look stupid)or use of another angle fitting to make it fit good. Understand?

Edit: let's start a "go fund me" for a new intake filter for you. ;)

What's wrong with the air filter on my car?

[Ondonti]

What's wrong with the air filter on my car?

Its not 18" long

[DoubleD]

I have finally got a handle on this PCV system. I will post details of my set-up later. I am using a modified stock set up with an added valve cover vent that all goes to a sealed catch can that is piped into the intake piping. 1000+ mile and countless pulls and very little oil in the catch can.

[2.216VTurbo]

So the puff from high vacuum deccel is gone then?? Would love it if the Rampage RT would stop doing that:nod:

[johnl]

Could be valve guides, engine vacuum pulling down pooled oil that is not draining back to block fast enough. Leak down would eliminate rings.

Always best to draw any crankcase vacuum from the crankcase itself, not from the head/valve cover. A draw point at the crankcase tends to draw oil down from the valve cover while a take off point for crankcase evacuation on the valve cover tends to pull or hold oil in the head, hindering drain down.

Problem of course with crankcase draw point is to find a take off point for the evac that is clear of the windage oil splash of just about everywhere down there. Maybe find a spot for a large diameter vertical pipe to slow velocity and allow suspended oil to precipitate.

A Bernoulli effect "gulp valve" is very effective at using the exhaust flow to create a vacuum but down side for you Alan is that a catch can might fill up and then any oil that is suspended in the vacuumed air might make smoke in the exhaust.


A mechanical or electric vacuum pump would not necessarily fix that that problem since they too could suffer a filled up catch can which typically would be routed back to the intake manifold . . . . but need not be. The vacuumed air can go to atmosphere.

[2.216VTurbo]

I have spent extensive time and energy building a very complete breather box/catch can and I still get the puff:(

[DoubleD]

Finally took some pictures the other night.
So what I have going on here is a relatively simple set-up, in all of my testing I found that a majority of the stock PCV system is well thought out and works well. What I have done is connect both my valve covers with a hose using the fittings already there, not the cleanest solution, but with my mods already completed it worked. Next I added a hole to the oil cap, this pulls the air from the highest point and minimizes the potential for oil entering the vent system. The vent line from the oil cap leads to a baffled catch can. On the other end I am utilizing the line coming from the block going to the stock breather/separator block, then into the stock elbow and a stock PCV valve leads back to the intake manifold. The other side of the factory tee leads to hose that leads to the baffled catch can. Both the block vent and the oil cap line terminate in the same catch can. On the top of the catch can there is a 1" elbow that goes directly into the air intake for the turbo. All the other lines are 5/8" silicone hose.
So in a nutshell it is now a sealed system that under vacuum, draws air into the intake manifold, but once in boost the air intake is under vacuum. So both the block fitting and the oil cap line are under vacuum, this is the best way to set up a turbo car, IMO all turbo cars should utilize a sealed PCV system, the turbo is an excellent source of vacuum and will produce more power because it is drawing air out of the engine and removing any resistance to the piston traveling in the cylinder, this also helps to seal the rings better.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/10/ceb3a34f2099b6ec9dd88a24ab40aaf9.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/10/acdd56ad68965154de51878b371f8e83.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/10/22910f9eeb1a48fd5855e31f880a18d9.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/10/2b83b7c10065ed85ec7c7810f5323460.jpg

[Turbo224]

Seems like a pretty cool setup, although I cant quite tell what's going on in the 3rd pic.

[DoubleD]

The third pic is my catch can, the two smaller hoses on the bottom go to the stock PCV system and the oil cap hose. The larger hose on top goes directly into the air intake pipe before the turbo,

[Wastelands Warrior]

Cool setup. :)

[Turbo224]

What purpose does the hose that connects your valve covers serve?

[DoubleD]

Changed the oil in the car last night, drained the catch can and this is all that came out. I'm going to say that my system is working really well, finally figured that out properly.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/02/5652400cacaaab1082b552581e95d4a8.jpg

[DoubleD]

What purpose does the hose that connects your valve covers serve?
The purpose of the hose is to allow pressure that is building in the rear valve cover to vent into the front cover, then the front cover is attached to the rest of the PCV system to allow any pressure in either valve cover to be released, Also the fittings in the VC were originally used to vent the covers, but I found out the holes are too low and allowed oil to pool in the lines and essentially drain right into the catch can. If I were to re-do this at this time, I would have the fitting and hose connecting the two valve covers under the valley cover, but I made the best with what I already had.

[Turbo224]

The purpose of the hose is to allow pressure that is building in the rear valve cover to vent into the front cover, then the front cover is attached to the rest of the PCV system to allow any pressure in either valve cover to be released, Also the fittings in the VC were originally used to vent the covers, but I found out the holes are too low and allowed oil to pool in the lines and essentially drain right into the catch can. If I were to re-do this at this time, I would have the fitting and hose connecting the two valve covers under the valley cover, but I made the best with what I already had.

Thanks for the explanation. I am determined to drag my R/T out of storage and into the garage this winter and get back on the road for next spring. A catch can and pvc setup are high on the list of things to do. Are you saying you would have done it similar to Alan's setup? Do you have any sort of baffles inside the valve covers that cover the fittings?

[DoubleD]

What I would do, if I did it over is put put the vent fittings on the same side, but I would put them up as high as I could, up in the corner. I have seen many cars done this way and my friend recently set his up this way. You still need baffles inside. I got this idea from a very well respected TIII guy who has built plenty of these drive trains.
Here's my baffles.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/05/ff1acc26a57805c401d4da3c8b99ec11.jpg

[Turbo224]

What I would do, if I did it over is put put the vent fittings on the same side, but I would put them up as high as I could, up in the corner. I have seen many cars done this way and my friend recently set his up this way. You still need baffles inside. I got this idea from a very well respected TIII guy who has built plenty of these drive trains.
Here's my baffles.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/05/ff1acc26a57805c401d4da3c8b99ec11.jpg


Is there anything behind the baffles?

[DoubleD]

I sectioned up some of those metal pan scrubber pads and squeezed them in there. None of this really helped to separate the oil and air, had to change to the existing way.
On a second note, I am not getting any smoke or puffs from the exhaust after idling or performing a hot start.

[Wastelands Warrior]

Looks like a well thought out set up.

[DoubleD]

Looks like a well thought out set up.
I have spent a few years and have had numerous different layouts and system designs, biggest thing I learned was the stock PCV layout is decent, but it needed added venting capacity and the valve covers need to also be vented. I've poured tons of resources and research into the system and I am happy to finally be able to check this one off my list finally.

[rx2mazda]

I think the stock setup is fine for about 99% of people. Stephane was the first to do the venting of the valve covers in his 8 second TIII Charger race car. Pat was running 10's & 11's for years with no VC vents. I feel like now it's just done for extra security/coolness factor. Mine was one of the first TIII street cars that had vented both VC, I know Rick D. vented his before me but he just vented 1. When I put mine in I just did it for the reasons I just mentioned. I had never had any issues with the stock set-up and I never popped a dipstick, etc.

I don't have any kind of baffling in mine, just the fitting.....I've never filled up my catch can. I don't know that anyone has ever truly researched how much pressure is building up in the VC's during heavy load(i.e putting a pressure tap in the VC's and measuring)? If someone did, I would love to see the results! Only then would I be able to justify the NEED of my vented VC's.

[mopar-tech]

56408

I feel like now it's just done for extra security/coolness factor.

I was one of the first people to do it on the Reliant back in 2001. I found at the power level the car was at the stock returns were not enough.

After fabricating a 3/4" flowpath from the SOHC valve cover to where a block off plate would be oil in the catch tank dropped off to almost nothing, a teaspoon in a single seaon. TIII has the same returns, the oil has to work pretty hard to get back to the pan with the pistons churning up the airspace in the crankcase.


Gary

[DoubleD]

Been doing some research into this system yet again and I think I have discovered another improvement to the system to limit filling the catch can as quickly. I recommend reading this article:
http://mewagner.com/?p=1221
After reading this article I will be adding a baffle in front of the oil fill cap, right now I have a direct line of sight between the vent in my oil cap and the valve train. Adding this baffle in front of the oil fill opening should help remedy this issue. I am not sure how much room I will have between the top of the valve cover and the oscillating rockers, but there should be room for a baffle.

[Wastelands Warrior]

Been doing some research into this system yet again and I think I have discovered another improvement to the system to limit filling the catch can as quickly. I recommend reading this article:
http://mewagner.com/?p=1221
After reading this article I will be adding a baffle in front of the oil fill cap, right now I have a direct line of sight between the vent in my oil cap and the valve train. Adding this baffle in front of the oil fill opening should help remedy this issue. I am not sure how much room I will have between the top of the valve cover and the oscillating rockers, but there should be room for a baffle.

I think if you look through the oil fill hole in the valve cover you will see that there isn't alot of space between the rocker arms and the inside of the valve cover. I was getting alot of oil blowing through a valve cover breather I had as a filler cap, and I thought about building a baffle to try and help cut down on the oil being blown through the valve cover breather. But just by peeking through the oil fill hole I pretty much gave up the idea and just went back to a stock filler cap.

[zin]

Anyone have info on how this version worked?...

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60051&d=1485729431

Mike

[iTurbo]

Anyone have info on how this version worked?...

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60051&d=1485729431

Mike

I appears to be a preproduction or prototype TIII. The PCV rubber T looks like the old 'log' T1/Masi part. Really not that different than stock TIII from what I can see. The production TIII used a separator box and I can only imagine it worked better.

I know the TIII PCV leaves a little to be desired, but so far the stock system seems to work OK on my builds. I tend to err on the tight side of ring gaps though.

[DoubleD]

Pulled the Valve Covers off this past weekend, there is no room to baffle the valve covers, the rockers come very close to the covers already. So then my next place to improve is the oil cap itself. I already have a billet aluminum oil cap, which means I can modify it. Here is my two pronged approach:

Option 1: Fab up a cover for the bottom of the oil cap, drill holes in the plate for venting, then fill the cavity with some steel wool and bolt the lower plate on.
Option 2: Fab up a couple of baffles that overlap with a gap between them, glue one baffle halfway up the oil fill cap, then bolt the other baffle on the bottom of the cap, this way oil does not have a direct path to the exit, hopefully this will slow down the oil from entering the PCV system.

Alternative: I found this slick oil cap for the Honda's that should thread right on and has built in baffling, I will only try this if the first 2 ideas won't work. I don't mind fabbing some parts and experimenting.

https://www.vmsracing.com/products/billet-aluminum-vacuum-scavenger-oil-cap-honda-civic-crx-accord-prelude-si-acura-integra-gs-ls-rs-gsr-type-r-d15-d16-b16-b18-h22-h23?variant=28443916109

[Force Fed Mopar]

Maybe you can update with good pics of the setup once you do. And upload them to the site, so they don't get lost (stupid Photobucket :mad: )

[DoubleD]

Removed the baffles from my valve covers, discovered they were not doing anything for me except obstructing flow between the two covers.
I will try and collect all of my old photos or just take new ones of the current setup that handles it 90% of the time.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/ff56aae964bacf94f1656339e5162889.jpg

[90Dodgevnt]

So what were the final setups that worked? I've viewed multiple threads and it seems everone has something different.

I'm running a Holset and it's blowing oil like mad under boost. Head is getting pulled this next week to replace all the stem seals and address a few other issues.

I did like the vent idea from the oil cap and I plan on the valve covers being modified to an an10 or an12 fittings and running it to a dual breather catchcan. Question is, would the line from the oilcap be overkill if I already had both the valve covers routed?

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

https://turbobuick.com/threads/crankcase-evacuation-with-the-lt1-smog-pump-how-to.234420/

https://www.google.com/search?q=make+crankcase+evacuation+pump+from+smog% 2Fair+pump&hl=en-GB&sourceid=gd&rlz=1Q1GGLD_enCA728CA728

https://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/tech-section/12481-oem-electric-evac-smog-pumps

I've seen old style belt drive smog pumps used as crankcase evac pumps too

[DoubleD]

Finally got around to drawing this up. Here is my design, up to date for crankcase evacuation.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200323/a017107d614e546911c6d5abb2249f7d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200323/c894419a38742eb8df9b4b7d39427a03.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200323/be05dad0a037ce0456a3ecbb1d36ce10.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200323/fb57f40738252d348bb24184d9511edb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200323/5bffbdf9ec9c04202ee90ea0a7793716.jpg


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