player1up
10-17-2013, 01:18 PM
So I know some have had issues with the power windows in the Consulier. I've been able to get the regulator out to remove the motor and replace the gear.
My problem was the felt / velvet in the window track had come unglued and bunched up at the bottom, thus causing tension at the gear when the window got to that point in the track. The issue was the 3 rollers that are inside the motor disintegrated when trying to roll the window up and down with additional pressure due to the track problem. The rollers are around 7/16 of an inch in diameter and I used some plastic stock that I had floating around, shaped with a dremel and viola, works like a champ.
The setup is fairly straight forward.
It has tracks on both sides with the regulator slider on the bottom edge of the window in a horizontal orientation.
Window motor ( part number 4336601 for the drivers side ) has 3 mounting points but only one is accessible without removing the regulator from it's mount.
The regulator has 3 7/16 nuts that hold it to the hinge. The door hinge extends into the door to allow the regulator to mount to it.
The tricky part is getting the thing out. I had to remove one of the motor bolts ( the one closest to the front of the car, the only one that you can get to the front and back sides ) to get the regulator out toward the back past the front window track. I can't post photos just yet, but when I can I'll include them. Besides, I still need to do the passenger side.
Once the regulator is out, you can remove the motor. Yes, they used the allen headed screws in there too, and the little nut size is 1/4
I haven't taken the tracks out to reinstall the pile slider stuff just yet, but I'm guessing the glass will have to come out. The stuff that came out of the track is unbeaded pile glass channel and is NOT rubber backed. It appears to be fabric glued in place and is VERY specific. I'll try to get some measurements of it tonight but it looks like it'll be hard to come by even if it's stock chrysler
Notes:
1. Be really careful with the door panel ( duh ) as it's some sort of grey cardboard that feels pretty soft. If you door panels wrap up onto the curved part by the window ( not all do ), use this opportunity to re-curve the top edge, they'll go back on easy and look nicer instead of having a huge gap around the top from pulling away from the door like mine.
2. The little plastic surrounds for the door handles are a pain and mine are already missing a couple of the mounting tabs. They pull away at the front ever so slightly then slide back to come off.
3. If the rollers have been crushed into little plastic bits, make sure you get them ALL out of the motor gear so they don't bind up later.
4. This is also a really good time to grease the door lock mechanisms if they're sticking.
My problem was the felt / velvet in the window track had come unglued and bunched up at the bottom, thus causing tension at the gear when the window got to that point in the track. The issue was the 3 rollers that are inside the motor disintegrated when trying to roll the window up and down with additional pressure due to the track problem. The rollers are around 7/16 of an inch in diameter and I used some plastic stock that I had floating around, shaped with a dremel and viola, works like a champ.
The setup is fairly straight forward.
It has tracks on both sides with the regulator slider on the bottom edge of the window in a horizontal orientation.
Window motor ( part number 4336601 for the drivers side ) has 3 mounting points but only one is accessible without removing the regulator from it's mount.
The regulator has 3 7/16 nuts that hold it to the hinge. The door hinge extends into the door to allow the regulator to mount to it.
The tricky part is getting the thing out. I had to remove one of the motor bolts ( the one closest to the front of the car, the only one that you can get to the front and back sides ) to get the regulator out toward the back past the front window track. I can't post photos just yet, but when I can I'll include them. Besides, I still need to do the passenger side.
Once the regulator is out, you can remove the motor. Yes, they used the allen headed screws in there too, and the little nut size is 1/4
I haven't taken the tracks out to reinstall the pile slider stuff just yet, but I'm guessing the glass will have to come out. The stuff that came out of the track is unbeaded pile glass channel and is NOT rubber backed. It appears to be fabric glued in place and is VERY specific. I'll try to get some measurements of it tonight but it looks like it'll be hard to come by even if it's stock chrysler
Notes:
1. Be really careful with the door panel ( duh ) as it's some sort of grey cardboard that feels pretty soft. If you door panels wrap up onto the curved part by the window ( not all do ), use this opportunity to re-curve the top edge, they'll go back on easy and look nicer instead of having a huge gap around the top from pulling away from the door like mine.
2. The little plastic surrounds for the door handles are a pain and mine are already missing a couple of the mounting tabs. They pull away at the front ever so slightly then slide back to come off.
3. If the rollers have been crushed into little plastic bits, make sure you get them ALL out of the motor gear so they don't bind up later.
4. This is also a really good time to grease the door lock mechanisms if they're sticking.