Time to build a new Short Block, T3 Style

[DoubleD]

I competed in a Auto Cross/ Top Speed event this past weekend in my 92 IROC R/T. The car is currently running a Holset HE341 and supporting fuel mods. It is running at 18 psi. Under the full boost run in 3rd and 4th gear at lower revs the Car holds a solid 18psi and then at higher RPM's as I reach 6000 rpm and above the boost gauge bounces between 16 and 24psi. After the run waiting in the cool down area I popped the hood and there is about 1/2 cup of oil in my catch can. I did 2 runs. I rebuilt the head 2 years ago with all new valve seals and a full valve job. I believe either the rings are not sealing anymore or the cylinders are not round. I think a cylinder leak down is in order. I have spare block in the garage, including Rods, pistons and a Crank. I plan to build the spare parts into a short block and do a weekend swap.
The power goals of this car are 450 WHP. What would be your short block build plans if you were doing this.
I have the turbo system, clutch, fuel (with the addition of methanol injection), drive-line to support this.
Parts I have and will be using:
Recently rebuild T3 head that is ported
ARP Head Studs
Ported Exhaust Manifold
Rebuilt and balanced HE341
Large Inter-cooler (Precision or Spearco I believe)
+40 FWD Injectors, FWD Stage 4 "Jackson" Tune
Complete 3" Exhaust
Turbos Unleashed Purple PP with 6 Puck Ceramic Disk (good for 434 Lbs of Torque and up)

My Ideas:
Get the block work done and bore out the cylinders, deck the top (Paint it black)
Sealed Power Rings
Clean up the stock Pistons and Rods
Have the Crank Machined and checked
Have the rebuilt head decked
Cometic MLS Gasket
New Clevite Rod and Main Bearings
Re-use the I-Shaft and Oil Pump

Swap the rest of the parts from the "running" motor onto this block.


So if you were in my shoes what would you do when building a new short block.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k6/brmsnowboarder/IROC%20RT/IMG_20130523_243848_004_zpsae4ac507.jpg (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/brmsnowboarder/media/IROC%20RT/IMG_20130523_243848_004_zpsae4ac507.jpg.html)

[Wastelands Warrior]

From what I've read the stock T3 rods can be a weak link at 400+ hp. I'd put in a set of h- beams.

[harley04]

+1I have pictures of what 400+hp will do to stock rods. FWD H beams were my choice.

[Kryp2nitE]

4 Bolt mains are recommended for longevity at 400+hp

[DoubleD]

Alright, I am on a tight budget at this time. Still going to do a short block, but I will re-use the stock rods and standard pistons. I will keep the car only on 93 and not add Meth injection. I will limit the power to around 400 HP. That is seriously enough in this small FWD car. With my set up I can run a min of 18 pounds of boost, What kind of power should I make at 18 psi? Also how many pounds of boost should I run to make right around 400 HP? I like to have a decent all around car anyways and 400 WHP will do everything I need it to do for me. Lots of life changes right now and I don't want to sink a bunch of money into the motor. When the time comes, I can take the short block that is in the car now and build that with 4-bolt mains, H- Beam Rods, and Venolia Pistons. Thanks for the help guys. I don't want this build to get out of control right now, I have attainable goals and I will keep it mild and fun. I have been auto-crossing the car and I feel some money in shocks and springs would be better used for my goals then to put it all in the engine.

[DoubleD]

Honestly car is a hand full at 18psi Which equates to about 310 WHP. I will drive the car most of the time at 18psi, I just want the option to go higher sometimes with the use of a dual stage boost controller. I am not looking to run it daily at 400+ cause that is silly for what I use the car for. I am going to autocross it next season and that will be at 18PSI. Maybe a run or two to the dragstrip also. I daily drive this one.
I have another question:
Has anyone ran 65lb/hr injectors on a TIII with a Stage 4 FWD Tune. I called Cindy today and she told me about these, not as big as the 72's but an improvement on the 52's (+40's) in there now. I know I will have to play with the base fuel pressure, turning it down. Thru all my calculations the 65's will get me to the 425 WHP goal I am looking at.

[Shadow]

Doesn't sound like your bottom end was having any problems with the power you were making at 18+psi. How do the bearings and everything else look? If you deal with a reputable machine shop, or if your capable yourself, look everything over and see if anything looks iffy.

Other than that, you can debur/ shot peen the rods and install ARP rod bolts and freshen the rest of the mtr and you should be GTG.

Now, the 65lb inj's are no problem if the cal is set-up for them, is it? If it's a 52lb cal and your asking if you can just plug in the 65lb'ers and turn down the FP, you might be able to do that. Would prob work better if it's a 72lb cal and you turn up the FP to dial it in though.

[DoubleD]

So here is a little update to this thread. Been driving the car all summer and I really need to build a short block now. I have a fuel system now built to support 450+whp. I don't think I plan to ever make more than 500whp in this FWD car, I am sure that will be crazy enough. I want to build this next engine to last a few years, what are the tricks?

Whats a good plan?
Here is my idea for hard parts.
FWD or TU H beam Rods
Stock Mahle Pistons
Oil Pump (Replace Pump and I-Shaft if necessary)
ARP Main Studs (Line Hone Block)
ARP Head Studs (Already Have)
Cometic MLS Head Gasket.
Install Balance Shaft Assembly w/o shafts

Do I need 4 bolt mains for this HP level or will the 2 bolt be fine?