Need to adapt GLHS cal for automatic use

[Unacceptable]

I've got an '86 GLHS Stage II calibration in my vehicle. It works great, but is extremely... um, lethargic seems like the best word here.. when I go from P/N to D/R.. Almost always stalls if the engine isn't fully warmed up. Perhaps it's a sticky AIS, but everything else seems to work fine. I'm thinking it's just because it's not an automatic calibration. I know in other cals, you can just tick a flag and it becomes an automatic cal. Is anything remotely like that possible with the '86 TII calibrations? Does anyone have a good .tbl file for this calibration, when I downloaded this calibration from Shelgame's repository, it had a blank tbl file.

[86Shelby]

I've ran the MP GLHS STG2 LM with an automatic trans for several years, no calibration changes were needed. I'm sure it's not optimum but it works fine. Go ahead and clean out the throttle body passages and the AIS. Then you'll want to set your base idle to 750-800 rpm. Start the engine and pull the brake booster vacuum line off and let the engine settle out at that higher rpm, probably be around 3k. Unplug the AIS, then put the vacuum line back. There's a set screw near the throttle cable where you'll set the base idle. Shut the car off and plug the AIS back in. You should be good to go. You'll also want to make sure you're running a turbo torque converter. The turbo units will stall about 3K rpm, the TBI units will stall around 2500. The TBI converter will make the car feel like a slug off the line, I had a mis-marked converter and found out the hard way.

If you want a true TII/Auto LM you'll need to source a LM from an auto equipped Shelby Lancer and then swap a few pins in your wiring harness to make it work. The SL auto calibration had a reduced torque figure to help the stock transmission live for the warranty so I would expect slightly lower performance than the GLHS cal.

[ShelGame]

Take the SL cal (as suggested), and copy in the fuel, spark and boost tables from the GLHS cal and you'll have 99% of what you're looking for.

The auto cals did have a 'flag', but that was only used for a couple of functions. Most of the auto/manual differences are in the idle control calibration values (aside from the power-reducing stuff to save the auto).

[Unacceptable]

Ok, I'll start with cleaning the AIS and setting the base idle. It may also be a case of the computer needing to learn the idle control (fun every time I unhook the battery!), as it's already getting better (or the AIS is already moving more freely). I'm not sure on the stall, it was in the vehicle when I got it, and it's an '85, so my TC options are limitted. The thing is geared REALLY low, crazy high RPM's on the freeway, so that helps it feel peppy off the line.