t3 "hybrid" build?

[OmniLuvr]

i posted something about this a little bit agoin the hybrid section, but didnt get much response because it was lame. so im going to try again here :)

so ive got a tbi block that ive stuck t3 pistons in, and plopped a g-head on it. ive been running it very succesfully for about a year and a half, until this sunday. my radiator split, i lost a lot of coolant and spiked the temp pretty high pretty quickly (i was in the middle of a boosted run). So i fixed the rad, and fired the car back up, no misfire, doesnt overheat, and dont "see" any bubbles in the cooling system, but it builds pressure pretty quickly now, seams to be pushing a little fluid into the overflow after driving, and has a strange misfire, only in boost, only in 1st-3rd, but 4th and 5th gear is fine?

so im worried i popped the headgasket/head, and if im pulling the head, id like to upgrade, and im thinking of buying a complete t3 head and having some fun. obviously i would need to get a crank gear, inter gear, and correct t belt to go with the head, but i have another idea.

has anyone ever made, or is it possible to get t3 cam gears with the round tooth pattern instead of the trapiziod so i could run my current crank, inter, dizzy, and use a neon hybrid belt? or would the belt not hold up to the tension?

i may just buy a complete t3 engine, but i was trying to utalize more of what i have now, and im not ready to assemble my neon hybrid engine yet...

[Vigo]

I think what you want would be more difficult/expensive than just buying the two other correct gears for the bottom end and being done.

[Pat]

I think what you want would be more difficult/expensive than just buying the two other correct gears for the bottom end and being done.

The T3 I shaft gear is smaller, meaning it wouldn't drive the distributor at the correct speed to the engine. I think Simon ran a W timing belt with a round tooth I shaft gear for a while but I'd say either a W I shaft gear in the round tooth size or round tooth T3 cam gears would be ideal by a long shot to do what you are looking to do.

Or, run hang the distributor off the side of the head and run it off the exhaust cam.

[Vigo]

The T3 I shaft gear is smaller, meaning it wouldn't drive the distributor at the correct speed to the engine

I thought you couldnt run a distributor under a t3 intake anyway (ive never owned one, thats just what it looks like)? If you're not running a distributor that smaller gear just means your oil pump turns faster, assuming the crank gears are the same size/count between the two. Of course, i guess assuming he's not going to run the distributor in the stock location is a big assumption since that reference signal has to come from somewhere.

[OmniLuvr]

The T3 I shaft gear is smaller, meaning it wouldn't drive the distributor at the correct speed to the engine.

this because i "wanted" to run the dissy in the block


I thought you couldnt run a distributor under a t3 intake anyway (ive never owned one, thats just what it looks like)

me either, was hoping that you could, but also planned on running a custom intake


smaller gear just means your oil pump turns faster

which i dont think is needed, and i believe with the smaller gear, the belt is at a slightly diff angle causing it to hit part of the 8v seal housing?

and thanks for the responses, im trying to step it up and exploring my options AND opinions. im really not that into the t3 thing with the special timing belt tension that is needed (and the other assosiated problems), but im just trying to figure out what is feasable. i really wanted to take this g-head thing A LOT FURTHER, and will in another car, but i always upgrade on a tear down. the way i look at it is, i could be spending similar money on a hopped up g-head...

i might be looking at buying a complete longblock now instead...

[Vigo]

I would think the price of a complete t3 longblock would get you a really damn fancy G-head. Not that im trying to talk you out of it.

[OmniLuvr]

thats kind of where im at, crossroads. fwd performance is selling a long block for 1500, that would get me a forged crank and a good block for my hybrid build. there is another person on here parting out a daytona rt, i was thinking of picking up that long block? and there isnt any "good" g-heads for sale on here right now. id love to drop the cash on top fuel benders old head, but i dont think he's been on here for a while.

[Vigo]

Sounds like a cool project either way. I ought to stop running my mouth about things i dont know about (t3) so just let us know what you come up with! :)

[OmniLuvr]

im glad you said something, i need ideas, people to talk me out of or into something. this is the first time ive actually had enough money to throw at two projects, and have a lot of parts already, but i wanted to only tackle one at a time. i was just about to start my hybrid build, then this happend :( i need to have boost while im building boost, so il prob stick the t3 in my omni while im rebuilding this motor for the charger. im just really bummed i didnt get to stretch this project out as far as i wanted.

[turbovanman²]

I have a nice ported G head with +1mm stainless valves, :eyebrows:

To run a TIII head, unless you have some custom gears made up, the stockers are your best bet. A dizzy will not fit under a stock intake, I redid my intake so the plenum came out further to clear the intake but servicing is a pain. I ran the larger 8 valve cam sprocket and it worked just fine but then later had a custom aluminum gear made. Now, I run it off the exhaust cam spinning backwards.

[OmniLuvr]

i also read that you seamed to be having a little bit of a problem with oil in your dizzy? i was just exploring my options, almost bought a t3 longblock, but just decided to throw the money at my srt hybrid project instead (ive already got a nice block, new pistons and rods, srt4 head, 2.0 cams). I dont think i want to deal with all the t3 quirks right now, or the cost to fix them... but they do look pretty sexy.

a ported g-head huh... hmmm

[turbovanman²]

Yeah, the dizzy does leak a bit of oil, :(

PM'd back on the head.

[OmniLuvr]

plus the frame mods to clear p/s and serp belt was a little to stressfull for me to run one in an l-body for now, again hoping for more of a "hybrid". i would plan on buying cam gears for it anyways, so if they could be had in round tooth id be happy, but almost over it for now. t3 engines chewing up valvetrain parts for almost no reason, and those parts being so expensive (or not available) scares me a little bit too.

[lengel]

plus the frame mods to clear p/s and serp belt was a little to stressfull for me to run one in an l-body for now, again hoping for more of a "hybrid". i would plan on buying cam gears for it anyways, so if they could be had in round tooth id be happy, but almost over it for now. t3 engines chewing up valvetrain parts for almost no reason, and those parts being so expensive (or not available) scares me a little bit too.

I just ran manual steering in my TIII glh. Its not hard to steer at all, and you dont have to notch the frame rail. Just an option for you.

Adam

[rich tideswell]

has anyone attempted to add EPAS (electric power assisted steering) through a kit like this http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0018/s0001 or scavenging parts from a bone yard?

[OmniLuvr]

i just worked on a newish mazda 3 that had a resivor with an electric pump attached to the bottom, didnt have time to figure out the whole system though...

[rich tideswell]

that would most likely be the easier way to go versus buying and adapting a motor to the steering column


looks like toyat mr2 pumps are the favorite, used on ls1 v8's and electric car swaps ...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/415129-how-install-mr2-power-steering-pump.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1469354-electric-power-steering-conversion-w-pics.html