The Neon thread!

[ShadowFromHell]

I know we have alot of neon owners on here, some boosted some not so post them up! Neons make great reliable drivers when all the turbo-mopars are broke down, I know from experience haha!!!

[ShadowFromHell]

Here is the neon Ive owned the longest. Its a 97 sport coupe that has long history before I owned it, and it was the first "fast" neon I ever rode in. A buddy of mine drove it all through college mostly stock and then swapped in a full bolt on 2.4. He won ALOT of street races with his little purple coupe. I missed the opportunity to buy it and another friend bought it after he sold it to buy a SRT in 2005. Then the paint went bad, and all the go fast goodies were swapped into another shell and a 95 DOHC from a NYG ACR was put in to replace the 2.4. Thats when I bought it, back to almost stock and UGLY. Gave my buddy $250 bucks and a set of SRT wheels/tires for the car back in 08.

The little car has been great to me, its a TON OF FUN to drive. With the DOHC motor, 3.94 tranny, short tires and the KYB stuts with low milage ACR springs really make this thing handle. While mechanicly I haven't done a thing but change the oil, toss some plugs in it and put another 30k on it it still needs alot of work. When I bought it our guess was it had 250-300k on the chassis. It runs great, but it was time to upgrade since with my health I couldn't fix it like I wanted. The car has been replaced, but its not going anywhere :)

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/TurboshadowWA/100_0175_zps6b9b946f.jpg (http://s291.photobucket.com/user/TurboshadowWA/media/100_0175_zps6b9b946f.jpg.html)

I bought this one last december. After deciding the purple coupe was to far gone to fix up as a really nice DD. I spent months hunting for a decent SRT I could afford. I looked at a few, but the ones in my price range were not in the shape I wanted if I was going to get my first car payment. I gave up for a while, and then remembered another friend had this for sale. After a quick test drive it was mine! It is in immaculate shape, I really dare anyone to find a cleaner, nicer original neon that is 15 years old. It is also a sport coupe, and has every option available in 98 and everything works, even the sunroof! I would have been happy with that as these cars are fun to drive and get great MPG's. But it gets better.... it has a Hahn stage 1 turbo kit with a SRT intercooler! With my bad back buying a car that was already modded made it even better! Its really a stock car with a turbo kit and nothing more. Stock wheels, stock suspension, the only other "power mod" is the vibrant muffler and the 2.5" DP I built for it after the PO's obination of a DP failed after owning the car for a week.

Ive had it 6 months or so now and really like it. It looks great, is plenty fast and I really like having a sunroof again. I have installed a WB02 and boost gauge recently (it had NO gauges when I bought it, very scary) and am planning on upping the boost from the stage 1 4-5psi to the stage 2 8psi. I also plan on putting a set of crabs on it with the 225/50's off of my CSX, removing the vibrant and straight piping it (I hate the look of the vibrant) and thats really it for now. Long term Id love to put a SRT internalled 2.4 in it along with a 20g I have, but for now this will do :)

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/TurboshadowWA/3Ia3J13o75G45E45Mecaad7a5bafef09312a2_zps69e5ed3f. jpg (http://s291.photobucket.com/user/TurboshadowWA/media/3Ia3J13o75G45E45Mecaad7a5bafef09312a2_zps69e5ed3f. jpg.html)
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/TurboshadowWA/664608_4500531282988_1250675239_o.jpg (http://s291.photobucket.com/user/TurboshadowWA/media/664608_4500531282988_1250675239_o.jpg.html)
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/TurboshadowWA/11201295111700.jpg (http://s291.photobucket.com/user/TurboshadowWA/media/11201295111700.jpg.html)

[Vigo]

That vibrant would look better with different tips. My first neon had dual outlets from what i think was a flowmaster 80 but the tips werent that big. Ive heard a lot of people like the sound of the Vibrant on the neon although since yours is turbo i dont know how much different it sounds.

Ive had 2 95 sohc/mtx sedans so far. The first was a sport model that i bought with a broken trans. I bought a 5spd stratus with high miles and a broken shift cable and took its trans out for the neon (didnt realize it was a 3.94 at first), and was really surprised how quick that neon was. I think it had SRI, atx tb, and muffler before i put the 3.94 in it. I eventually sold it to a friend 'in need' for way too cheap which i came to regret, and then when i realized how rare and actually good cars the 5spd stratus was, and i regretted ever parting it out for a neon in the first place. So that one did not end that happily.

A few years later i had the chance to buy a running/driving 95 base sedan sohc/mtx for $200 and jumped on it. I put about 10k on it DDing it sporadically over the past 8 months or so. I recently stopped driving it and started driving my Insight again and fixing up my 3.8L dynasty which is now drivable, but i have some mods to put on the neon while it's down.

I collected a small collection of parts for it:
atx tb
kirk LTH
2.5" glasspack
flowmaster of unknown origin
fog light bumper cover and fog lights
bulge hood
big front sway bar (was it 21mm? I cant remember, but i already put it on there)
19mm eibach rear sway
Stiff rear springs (not sure if im going to change the fronts)
some 15x6.5 5spokes in 4x100 because im going to convert mine to 4x100.

I also plan to send my PCM to Shelgame so he can flash it to an MP cal.

Im looking for / planning to do:
UDP
4x100 220mm rear drum setup from <85 k-car
Window tint
Speaker enclosure under rear deck for 6x9s and 1 8" sub
4ch amp install
NYG PAINT JOB MOTHER----ERS!!
195/50r15 federal 595-Rs
Valve cover gasket
Crank sensor pigtail

Eventually i want to de-90 the stock intake mani and run a bigger ~60mm TB on it and get a cam, but thats way down my list of priorities.

Mine looks about as bad as your old car except the front bumper is still the same color as the rest of it (black/rustspots).

[glhs875]

I plan on finding a nice 2 door Neon to put my spare SRT4 engine into.

[thedon809]

This is how my 98 sohc 5 speed coupe sits except I have DEPO clear projectors in it. It looks nice on the outside but is completely rotted out underneath.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/neon/101_1147.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/neon/101_1147.jpg.html)
A crappy pic of the 98 dohc atx sedan I picked up. Gotta get it running and swap a 3.94 in it.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20121105_175218.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20121105_175218.jpg.html)

[ShadowFromHell]

Washed and waxed my red coupe this weekend. This is the first car I have had in years that is even worth washing! It rained shortly after so I didnt get the chance to take it out and get some good shots of the car like I had planned. I also added a catch can, was tired of the filter on the vent covering the engine bay in oil.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/TurboshadowWA/2013-04-14150020_zps9e3261d3.jpg

Its not wet in the pic, thats 2 coats of wax:D. I wanted to do 3 but ran out of time. Ill wash it again this week and put another 2 coats on. The flat surfaces like the roof and hood really soaked it up.

[glhs875]

Washed and waxed my red coupe this weekend. This is the first car I have had in years that is even worth washing! It rained shortly after so I didnt get the chance to take it out and get some good shots of the car like I had planned. I also added a catch can, was tired of the filter on the vent covering the engine bay in oil.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/TurboshadowWA/2013-04-14150020_zps9e3261d3.jpg

Its not wet in the pic, thats 2 coats of wax:D. I wanted to do 3 but ran out of time. Ill wash it again this week and put another 2 coats on. The flat surfaces like the roof and hood really soaked it up.

Looks nice!!

[shadow88]

I had a 95 5 speed sohc green neon 4 door about 5 years ago and kept it for about 2 years when the bottom of the doors rotted off as well as some other serious rust issues. I liked the car's handling and braking with 4 wheel disc with abs, but it was pretty rotten.

Skip until last fall when my close friend was selling his turbo 97 neon. With ms 2 it was perfect for me. I've stretched it's fuel saving capabilities to 41 mpg hyway at 65mph and it cointinues to be reliable and perfect for my commute.

old neon
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/together/passengersideneon.jpg (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/shadowt2/media/together/passengersideneon.jpg.html)

new neon with the shadow. Some of you may recognise the neon from sdac 22.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/IMG_2148.jpg (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/shadowt2/media/IMG_2148.jpg.html)

[ShadowFromHell]

What turbo setup are you running? You have peaked my interest with 41mpg and boosted! My 98 has a hahn kit, but it still pulls almost the same MPGs as my stock 97 coupe which really surprises me.

Also just a tip for other neon owners, if you have a DOHC car put 92 in on your next fill up instead of 87. I got a old "neon performance" book a while back and it said that while none of the factory neon literature says you need 92, bone stock they do pull a little timing up top when using 87. My 97 seemed to pull a little harder up top on 92. Its worth trying.

[contraption22]

What turbo setup are you running? You have peaked my interest with 41mpg and boosted! My 98 has a hahn kit, but it still pulls almost the same MPGs as my stock 97 coupe which really surprises me.

Also just a tip for other neon owners, if you have a DOHC car put 92 in on your next fill up instead of 87. I got a old "neon performance" book a while back and it said that while none of the factory neon literature says you need 92, bone stock they do pull a little timing up top when using 87. My 97 seemed to pull a little harder up top on 92. Its worth trying.

Weird. I remember reading in literature that to get the 150hp advertised, that 91 octane or better was required. Mine was a 98 tho.

[ShadowFromHell]

That would make sense. I had never heard it anywhere before I got my hands on a probably 5-8 year old neon performance book. So maybe they did say to and I just missed it. But they definitely dont have the "Premium recommend" stickers on the gas lid like out turbo cars got.

[Vigo]

Come to think of it, i cant even picture where a knock sensor is on a neon. I guess ive never had to change one (or they dont exist?), but it has to know to pull timing somehow if it actually does pull timing.

I got about halfway through my kirk LTH install today before i got bored of working on it. Im not DDing it anymore so i can stop in the middle of things indefinitely now. :p Im also putting in two short flex sections, a 20" glasspack, and a flowmaster. The front part (header, flexes, glasspack) is mostly done, but i havent started on the muffler+tip yet. $89 HF flux core welder, baby! http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/welder.gif

[thedon809]

The dohc does indeed require premium. I think I'm going to eventually swap in a 2.4 in my white car. Nothing crazy. Just a relatively stock 2.4 with 2.0 cams and maybe a header or something.

[Vigo]

If someone were to give me a set of DOHC pistons i would like to put them in my SOHC with a de-shimmed MLS headgasket, but if i were to do that i should probably find a head with functional valve guides, or have mine redone. :p

[contraption22]

Come to think of it, i cant even picture where a knock sensor is on a neon. I guess ive never had to change one (or they dont exist?), but it has to know to pull timing somehow if it actually does pull timing.

I got about halfway through my kirk LTH install today before i got bored of working on it. Im not DDing it anymore so i can stop in the middle of things indefinitely now. :p Im also putting in two short flex sections, a 20" glasspack, and a flowmaster. The front part (header, flexes, glasspack) is mostly done, but i havent started on the muffler+tip yet. $89 HF flux core welder, baby! http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/welder.gif

When I got the MP computer, it came with a premium fuel required sticker to put on the inside of the fuel filler door. But even with the stock computer, I could hear a little knock if I short shifted and lugged the engine at low rpm.

If I had to do it over, I'd have left the stock muffler on mine. There is very little to gain over a stock muffler on a near-stock DOHC.

The knock sensor is under the intake manifold if memory serves.

[j4278h]

Here is my new daily driver. An 04 and my first td with working a/c. Whoo hoo.

[trbowgn]

Like the ride J. I use to never care about A/C but as I get older it becomes more important. I love the SRT man.

[Vigo]

If I had to do it over, I'd have left the stock muffler on mine. There is very little to gain over a stock muffler on a near-stock DOHC.

On the other hand, people talk about a stock DOHC muffler giving a noticeable gain if stuck onto a stock SOHC. Mine is a SOHC motor.


I use to never care about A/C but as I get older it becomes more important.

I guess you could say in Texas i feel about 80 years old every time it hits 105f. I guess when i get older i will consider moving to somewhere where working a/c is considered 'optional'.

[contraption22]

On the other hand, people talk about a stock DOHC muffler giving a noticeable gain if stuck onto a stock SOHC. Mine is a SOHC motor.



Yes, that is true.

The DOHC muffler has a nice tone without being obnoxious. Anything louder really becomes annoying, especially with the 3.94 5-speed or automatic trans.

[ShelGame]

Come to think of it, i cant even picture where a knock sensor is on a neon. I guess ive never had to change one (or they dont exist?), but it has to know to pull timing somehow if it actually does pull timing.

Mounted to the block under the intake manifold.

[shadow88]

Here's the thread to my neon when the previous owner had it. At it's best it ran a 14.1@104 with a weak 60 foot. Any agressive launch would break axles every time.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?22156-2.0L-dohc-turbo-neon-project

Not meaning to sound like a d1ck, but the oil feed from the head is still just fine 5 years later just in case anyone else was thinking of doing it.

And the megasquirt thread, which had become a fuel economy thread. Currently running a max boost of 7 psi from the stock srt-4 turbo.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?62569-Megasquirt-thoughts.&highlight=

The 41 mpg was only possible with an ALL hyway run and very delicate throttle control and concience efforts to help fuel economy. Normally, mixed city and hyway it gets around 32 this winter. Not bad for a car rated at 25 city, 35 hyway, 29 combined.

[Vigo]

If the car was consistently breaking axles there's something wrong with it. Turbo/5spd cars dont launch much differently than na/5spd cars so if it were the axles' fault a stock neon would break axles every time too.

[shadow88]

Upgraded clutch to handle the increased torque of about 260 foot pounds at the flywheel available at 3000 rpms, slicks and a sticky track and stock axles are pretty weak. Once you don't shock the driveline with a hard launch, it held together fine.

[contraption22]

My brother's nitroused SOHC broke axles every time he tried to launch it hard on slicks. They are notoriously weak.

[ShadowFromHell]

Ive heard pre-loading with the ebrake is KEY to keep the axles alive, along with good motor mounts. Supposedly slicks are easier on the axles because they wont wheelhop like a street tire. Although you guys have made me very nervous about putting slicks on my coupe to take it to the track. I dont want to break a axle on my daily driver.

I forgot I had a picture of this car. It was my first neon (Im on my 5th) and it was a lot of fun. I bought it when the turbine shaft broke on my shadow and I needed something to drive while I rebuilt it again, and the season wasn't over so I wanted something to race. Its a 95 sport sedan SOHC I paid 500 bucks for it, but it had a miss above 4k and the ABS activated all the time. I figured even if I had to put a motor in it or 2.4 swap it $500 wasn't bad as when I bought this a decent neon cost over 2k. I limped it home and got to work. It had some goofy coated spark plugs in it that had started flaking and that was causing the miss. A set of $5 stock champions fixed that! The ABS was even easier, I just pulled the fuse! So now I had a SOHC sedan that ran good and I had less $505 bucks in! Naturally I took it to the strip the next test and tune, with the only mod being a 3.0 intake. It ran a 16.1 I was surprised. A Completely different feeling racing this compared to my shadow that trapped 100mph and severe traction problems. The guy I bought it from couldn't believe I had it at the track as I had only bought it a week or so before and he thought it needed a motor. The next step was to gut the cat (car had 167k on it, I thought it might be clogged) and installed a small burned out "fart cannon" I painted black so it didnt stand out. It was loud, but got faster! The next time I took it to the track it was wearing the drag radials that are normally on my shadow. I ran a 15.8 on a BOG! Sadly, the track got rained out and I never got another pass but I know it had at least a 15.6 in it if not lower. Not bad for a almost stock SOHC that I had very little cash in. After that I bought a NX wet kit with the plan on spraying a 75 shot on it. Then a local kid who had a 89 CSX put it in a ditch and I ended up trading him the neon for the CSX and the neon went down the road. I was looking for another neon withing a couple months....

Burnouts are FUN!
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/TurboshadowWA/neonburnout_zpsea5679e5.jpg

[shadow88]

I will tell you this to help support my claims and contraptions findings too. The first time that neon broke an axle was on a "neon day" event at the local track and there were a few racers who brought spare axles to sell me to help get us home. I wasn't the only one who broke an axle and needed a new one that day.

[Vigo]

That sedan looks just like my first 95 other than the lack of fog lights...


Ive heard pre-loading with the ebrake is KEY to keep the axles alive, along with good motor mounts. Supposedly slicks are easier on the axles because they wont wheelhop like a street tire. Although you guys have made me very nervous about putting slicks on my coupe to take it to the track. I dont want to break a axle on my daily driver.

Taking the slack out of the drivetrain is the key. There is a way to drive that will not kill axles, if one cares to ask around before giving up. Firm motor mounts are a good thing, and pre-loading the drivetrain with the E-brake is a possibility that definitely would do the job, but in most cases i think people could avoid breaking axles just by altering the way they're doing the clutch take-up. Shocking the drivetrain is definitely the enemy.

Now, if people with Auto neons are breaking the axles with ~200hp, that's something else. But something tells me they dont..

[shadow88]

This car has even broke an axle on the shift to second. Pretty tough to avoid a shock load there with a stick shift. The stock axles just can't take the increased torque input and loads associated in drag racing on a good track.

[Vigo]

Well, i guess i can look forward to snapping axles in my 150hp neon at the track then, because a turbo car doesnt make any more power letting the clutch out during a shift than a stock neon does (unless you are flatshifing/powershifting in which case you are inherently making it harder on the axles).

Also, imo axles that break AFTER leaving the line were usually damaged coming off the line. Where are these axles failing? That might tell me something.

[shadow88]

Only look forward to breaking axles if you're really trying to get the best possible ET, otherwise, you'll be fine.

[ShadowFromHell]

Id be really curious to know what motor mounts the guys breaking axles were using, AND how far their cars were lowered. Both of those have effects on the axles, just as much as the tires and power. I know lowering a neon really screws with the angle of the axles and for some reason most neon guys think their frame rails need to drag the ground.

[Vigo]

Yeah it's really a shame that 1g neons look so good and function so bad when lowered. It's kind of funny, but because of the design this is one of my only cars that i WONT drastically lower. You basically need a custom coilover setup to have the suspension retain any kind of functionality once you've lowered it very much.

[shadow88]

I got solid mount inserts all 3 mounts and it's not lowered at all.

[j4278h]

Couple pics of a pair of 01 neon r/t's that I owned a few years ago. Some stupid reason I like that body setup better than the srt.

[coronet2fast]

Here is a pic of my 98 neon r/t back in the day. Still have the car, just not quite as good lookin any more.

44871

[thedon809]

Couple pics of a pair of 01 neon r/t's that I owned a few years ago. Some stupid reason I like that body setup better than the srt.I think that style bumper and grill are the best looking for 2nd gens. I actually like it better than the srt setup.

[Sgt Craig]

Id be really curious to know what motor mounts the guys breaking axles were using, AND how far their cars were lowered. Both of those have effects on the axles, just as much as the tires and power. I know lowering a neon really screws with the angle of the axles and for some reason most neon guys think their frame rails need to drag the ground.

The stock axles are very weak it doesnt matter which mounts you use or if its lowered or not.Some guys go the low budget route and use shadow or Pt axles(should be a thread on it on neons.org) which are a bit stronger.I never broke a axle in my first 98 R/T and god only knows how many passes I made in that car slicks,dragradials and streets.While I lent to the car to Don Howard at the mopar nats in 01 or 02 he broke 3 axles in it.It all depends on how hard you launch,wheel hop and how sticky the track is.By the time I got my 97 ACR I had purchased one of the first sets of DSS stage 3's(tubular axles)I ran them in 3 different cars and never had a problem,though the long one was slightly bent.I was going to upgrade to a set of stage 5 DSS as we had 2 sets lying around Hahn but the oil pump broke before that happened.In the first 98 rt I had I used stock side mounts,AFX FMM and Bobble.in the 97 ACr and turbo R/T Deyemme filled sides and AFX FMM and bobble.If you can find a set of deyemme filled sides grab them,the inserts work but not as good as the filled.I dont think Deyemme is around anymore.Best advice if you take it to the track bring spare axles a 32mm socket,a 15mm and 18mm and a big pry bar.

---------- Post added at 08:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:11 AM ----------


That sedan looks just like my first 95 other than the lack of fog lights...



Taking the slack out of the drivetrain is the key. There is a way to drive that will not kill axles, if one cares to ask around before giving up. Firm motor mounts are a good thing, and pre-loading the drivetrain with the E-brake is a possibility that definitely would do the job, but in most cases i think people could avoid breaking axles just by altering the way they're doing the clutch take-up. Shocking the drivetrain is definitely the enemy.

Now, if people with Auto neons are breaking the axles with ~200hp, that's something else. But something tells me they dont..

While preloading with the ebrake would work its really difficult to get down.I use to hold the car in the beams with the clutch and probally why I never broke any.The autos not breaking them,thank the tq convertor for that.

[Vigo]

I use to hold the car in the beams with the clutch and probally why I never broke any.

Youre probably right about that. Come to think of it, if every track was just slightly uphill and everyone had to do that, id bet no low-power neons would ever break axles on the line..

[Sgt Craig]

Youre probably right about that. Come to think of it, if every track was just slightly uphill and everyone had to do that, id bet no low-power neons would ever break axles on the line..

I did it even with my turbo one on tracks that where slightly up hill and downhill.Not hard to do with practice.It probally came from growing up in Pittsburgh and learning to drive stick here.

[fleckster]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but,

I'm dying for this winter weather to end and get back to working on my car projects and right now I'm itching to work on my Neon!
Some of you may remember my Neon if you were at SDAC-23:
49062
and if you weren't, here's another shot of it:
49064

It has finally after all this time, developed the "2.0L Headgasket Leak" and is losing oil down the back of the block. As was suggested, since I have to have the head off anyway to replace the gasket for the MLS one, I might as well upgrade the head while I'm at it. So I currently have on the bench:
49063
49065

This is a ported and milled .030" head I had redone with new valves and everything else by Steve Menegon. I'm hoping for some nice extra power here to go with the current Iceman, Auto throttle body, AFx UDP, and Mopar ECM. I also have a set of Crane 12 Cams to be installed with the head.

All this cold weather has given me plenty of daydreaming time and with the Indy Cylinder Head swap meet this weekend, I have decided to check into a deal on a new (or used) Indy intake manifold and a TTi Mid-length header. This will require me to modify the exhaust system since it is 2.5" outlet and will require cutting the downpipe. From what I've seen and heard, the Thermal R&D Muffler looks like the way to go. It has the look that still resembles the stock exhaust tips a bit with there being dual tips and they look sharp. The sound seems quiet (very important) but throaty and hopefully not to droaning on the highway at speed. The problem is that Modern Performance website shows that it might be out of stock and possibly discontinued (?) and I would still have to get the rest of the exhaust system. It looks like pretty much everyone has quit making cat back systems for 1st Gen Neons. You think it might be possible to get a mandral tube system minus the muffler from either TTi or Cindy at FWD Performance without their Dynomax mufflers? I realize that it would probably take some minor trimming to fit to the Thermal muffler.

After I figure this stuff out, the future plans would be:
- A 60mm (Jeep?) throttle body onto the matched Indy intake
- a custom programmed ECU to better match these parts
- maybe larger Cams than the Crane 12s?

I would absolutely love to get around 200hp at the wheels eventually and have my N/A Neon running in the 14s.

What do you guys think?

[contraption22]

There is very little complexity to a Neon exhaust system. A trusted exhaust shop should be able to make one for not much money.

[fleckster]

I don't know of any around here that do true mandrel bends. Then there's the cat if I decide to ditch it.

[fleckster]

Does anybody know which Jeeps have the 60mm Throttle Body that is rumored to the bolt on for the Neon? I'm guessing from the 4.0L in-line 6 but what year(s)?

[ATaylorRacing]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but,

I'm dying for this winter weather to end and get back to working on my car projects and right now I'm itching to work on my Neon!
Some of you may remember my Neon if you were at SDAC-23:
49062
and if you weren't, here's another shot of it:
49064

It has finally after all this time, developed the "2.0L Headgasket Leak" and is losing oil down the back of the block. As was suggested, since I have to have the head off anyway to replace the gasket for the MLS one, I might as well upgrade the head while I'm at it. So I currently have on the bench:
49063
49065

This is a ported and milled .030" head I had redone with new valves and everything else by Steve Menegon. I'm hoping for some nice extra power here to go with the current Iceman, Auto throttle body, AFx UDP, and Mopar ECM. I also have a set of Crane 12 Cams to be installed with the head.

All this cold weather has given me plenty of daydreaming time and with the Indy Cylinder Head swap meet this weekend, I have decided to check into a deal on a new (or used) Indy intake manifold and a TTi Mid-length header. This will require me to modify the exhaust system since it is 2.5" outlet and will require cutting the downpipe. From what I've seen and heard, the Thermal R&D Muffler looks like the way to go. It has the look that still resembles the stock exhaust tips a bit with there being dual tips and they look sharp. The sound seems quiet (very important) but throaty and hopefully not to droaning on the highway at speed. The problem is that Modern Performance website shows that it might be out of stock and possibly discontinued (?) and I would still have to get the rest of the exhaust system. It looks like pretty much everyone has quit making cat back systems for 1st Gen Neons. You think it might be possible to get a mandral tube system minus the muffler from either TTi or Cindy at FWD Performance without their Dynomax mufflers? I realize that it would probably take some minor trimming to fit to the Thermal muffler.

After I figure this stuff out, the future plans would be:
- A 60mm (Jeep?) throttle body onto the matched Indy intake
- a custom programmed ECU to better match these parts
- maybe larger Cams than the Crane 12s?

I would absolutely love to get around 200hp at the wheels eventually and have my N/A Neon running in the 14s.

What do you guys think?

I used to drag race a 99 SOHC and lost a half second when I put on the Indy Cylinder Head intake....killed the bottom end. Car picked it back up with an aftermarket 60mm TB.....but I had a bone stock head and cam.

[fleckster]

DOHC is quite a bit different than the SOHC on the intake. This is were the DOHC design was compromised badly when they decided to offer it with the automatic and they changed it from the original design and killed quite a bit of performance. I had heard nothing but good things about the Indy DOHC version. I think with the Menegon head, I should be good with it.

[ATaylorRacing]

When not drag racing the Matchbox I race a 95 Neon SOHC 4 door for points in the United Manual Transmission Racers series. Last year it was in the 16.1 range at nearly 90 with only the following changes from stock: Gutted cat, better flowing bullet style muffler, TB from the automatic car, solid mount where the bobble strut used to be, and removal of the power steering. I ended up 2nd in points and I am the only guy that drives to every event and drives it home...except once! Everyone but me tows...some run as quick as 7.7s at over 170 mph. In 2010 I borrowed this car from my mechanic when the SRT4 was broken...1st time out I was runner-up...then, at the last race of the year...WON the Stick Shift Nationals! It is much more consistent than the SRT4...easier to launch and shift. I bought it right at the start of the 2011 season. The best part of owning this...55 mph = 43 mpg, 65 = 34, and 70 = 30. The car had about 156,000 miles when I bought it and had the water pump, oil pump, head gasket, and timing best replaced. At 186,000 miles the timing belt tensioner pulley bearing failed and ripped up the belt...all 8 exhaust valves tagged the pistons (very minor gouges in them) but had to replace 4 valves and hand lapped all the others. Just freshening up the valve train picked it up about a half second...removal of the power steering another .7! Here are some links to what I race against:
http://hyperperformance.smugmug.com/Cars/Drag-Racing/UMTR-Mt-Park-Dragway-6212/23344869_dC8Fhh#!i=1884559366&k=kzh66tT
http://hyperperformance.smugmug.com/Cars/Drag-Racing/UMTR-at-Natl-Trail-July-28/24441717_CN7JNV#!i=1994250259&k=MNf7v62
http://hyperperformance.smugmug.com/Cars/Drag-Racing/UMTR-at-Edgewater-June-22nd/30231508_w3Lzrn#!i=2601876832&k=MLbDCG2

[contraption22]

I remember that being a common story with the INDY intakes, even with the DOHC. I do remember people having good luck with them in boosted applications. Other than that, little, no, or negative gain was to be had.

[ATaylorRacing]

A decal that was being sold as part of a charity fund raiser!

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44144&thumb=1 ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44144')

[fleckster]

So you aren't a fan of the Indy DOHC intake either, Mike? What are most DOHC Neon guys running then? Ported stockers with the 90° smoothed out? Custom upper?

[contraption22]

A decal that was being sold as part of a charity fund raiser!

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44144&thumb=1 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44144)

Why is there an anti-Neon Charity?

- - - Updated - - -


So you aren't a fan of the Indy DOHC intake either, Mike? What are most DOHC Neon guys running then? Ported stockers with the 90° smoothed out? Custom upper?

I wouldn't say I am not a fan. I don't really have any personal experience with it. Just what I remember hearing about it. I think Cliff and Flee Sebring had trouble getting any improvement out of it.

[fleckster]

Why is there an anti-Neon Charity?

I don't think it was as much for the Neon as it was for the Neon's driver skill, right, Angelo?

[ATaylorRacing]

I don't think it was as much for the Neon as it was for the Neon's driver skill, right, Angelo?

So here's the news on that decal. I race in the UMTR southern series. Our slowest et allowed WAS the standard NHRA 19.99 minimum. In 2010 I had some breakage in my 12.17 second SRT4 so I brought out the only stick car I had at the time...a lowly 3 banger Geo Metro that ran 19.90-19.96 and I made money (only pay the top 4 racers) in 2 of the 3 entered...in fact, the first guy I beat was dialed 7.70! So for 2011 they changed the UMTR rule to 18.99. I didn't mind since I sold the car and bought the Cheap Skate. In 2011 and 2012 a guy would drive all the way down from Cleveland to run against us with his 14 second first gen non-turbo Neon. That guy was tougher than me at that time (still getting mine consistent) and thank goodness he only came down a few times. In the middle of 2012 he lost first gear so he started just redlining it at the launch in second gear and dialed the 18.99 minimum...winning two races! They then changed the cut off to 17.99...so the decal is a tribute to both of us.

The Geo in action
http://hyperperformance.smugmug.com/Cars/Drag-Racing/UMTR-Nationals-2009/9766575_cE7SL#!i=661906049&k=nGdoF
If I remember correctly...the Vette beat by a Geo
http://hyperperformance.smugmug.com/Cars/Drag-Racing/UMTR-Mt-Park-Dragway-6212/23344869_dC8Fhh#!i=1884548253&k=vTzSbS8
Half our races are in Ohio at Edgewater and two at National Trail and one at Kil Kare...the other half are in KY! Four of these evening races are 4 hours from my house!

[thedon809]

From what I recall, the Indy intake is tuned for high rpms so you lose low end torque. It works well with boost because boost masks its low rpm inefficiency.

[Sgt Craig]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but,

I'm dying for this winter weather to end and get back to working on my car projects and right now I'm itching to work on my Neon!
Some of you may remember my Neon if you were at SDAC-23:
49062
and if you weren't, here's another shot of it:
49064

It has finally after all this time, developed the "2.0L Headgasket Leak" and is losing oil down the back of the block. As was suggested, since I have to have the head off anyway to replace the gasket for the MLS one, I might as well upgrade the head while I'm at it. So I currently have on the bench:
49063
49065

This is a ported and milled .030" head I had redone with new valves and everything else by Steve Menegon. I'm hoping for some nice extra power here to go with the current Iceman, Auto throttle body, AFx UDP, and Mopar ECM. I also have a set of Crane 12 Cams to be installed with the head.

All this cold weather has given me plenty of daydreaming time and with the Indy Cylinder Head swap meet this weekend, I have decided to check into a deal on a new (or used) Indy intake manifold and a TTi Mid-length header. This will require me to modify the exhaust system since it is 2.5" outlet and will require cutting the downpipe. From what I've seen and heard, the Thermal R&D Muffler looks like the way to go. It has the look that still resembles the stock exhaust tips a bit with there being dual tips and they look sharp. The sound seems quiet (very important) but throaty and hopefully not to droaning on the highway at speed. The problem is that Modern Performance website shows that it might be out of stock and possibly discontinued (?) and I would still have to get the rest of the exhaust system. It looks like pretty much everyone has quit making cat back systems for 1st Gen Neons. You think it might be possible to get a mandral tube system minus the muffler from either TTi or Cindy at FWD Performance without their Dynomax mufflers? I realize that it would probably take some minor trimming to fit to the Thermal muffler.

After I figure this stuff out, the future plans would be:
- A 60mm (Jeep?) throttle body onto the matched Indy intake
- a custom programmed ECU to better match these parts
- maybe larger Cams than the Crane 12s?

I would absolutely love to get around 200hp at the wheels eventually and have my N/A Neon running in the 14s.

What do you guys think?

To get in the 14's you dont really have to do that much work.My first R/T(loaded) went 14.7's on D/R's with AFX ECU(Race Version),Iceman,paceshitter header,AFX UDP,thermal muffler,rest of exhaust stock.It was deadly consistent and reliable.

My 97 ACR went 13.69@98 with a DCR built motor before it chucked a rod(not DCR's fault,long story) It was built 12.5-1 Je's stock rods(why it chucked one)AFX ECU,Iceman air intake,Bored stock Tb,DCR ported Intake,Crane 16's,stock injectors,walbro pump,DCR ported head afx udp,AFX long tube header and a few other tidbits. After it chucked the rod Iused a junkyard 2.0 DOHC of unknown origin.Used the Ported intake and TB,a paceshitter header,Iceman,and AFX ECU.Had also installed a set of coil overs and used same slicks from the DCR setup.Best it went was 14.23@91 Its not rocket science to make one run 14's.Do not use the Indy Intake,Its a big waste of money.Get a AFX Race ECU,itll go great with the other mods you have planned.

[cordes]

This thread is very interesting to me. I just got my $100 05 Neon up and running and now it's time to finish off the 97. I think the 97 could see some track time this year but it won't be impressive at all.

[Sgt Craig]

This thread is very interesting to me. I just got my $100 05 Neon up and running and now it's time to finish off the 97. I think the 97 could see some track time this year but it won't be impressive at all.

Ive been wanting to put another one together for quite sometime.The last one I had a 98 Plymouth Style SOHC Auto i absolutely hated.If i could find another ACR or R/T cheap ill be all over it.We had a 99 in at work this week.It was green SOHC auto coupe with a tan interior.It only had 27k on it.

[cordes]

Ive been wanting to put another one together for quite sometime.The last one I had a 98 Plymouth Style SOHC Auto i absolutely hated.If i could find another ACR or R/T cheap ill be all over it.We had a 99 in at work this week.It was green SOHC auto coupe with a tan interior.It only had 27k on it.

Wow, that is some seriously low mileage for a Neon.

[fleckster]

Mine currently has 57000 miles. Almost twice as much as that one but still pretty low for a 1998.

So now after a bit more research, I'm thinking I will probably hold off on getting an Indy intake. Apparently the consensus is that the Indy isn't worth the money and doesn't increase power with bolt-ons. Now with my ported and milled head, it might be a good upgrade. I think I'll hold off until I can research more and find out the best move.

[fleckster]

To get in the 14's you dont really have to do that much work.My first R/T(loaded) went 14.7's on D/R's with AFX ECU(Race Version),Iceman,paceshitter header,AFX UDP,thermal muffler,rest of exhaust stock.It was deadly consistent and reliable.

My 97 ACR went 13.69@98 with a DCR built motor before it chucked a rod(not DCR's fault,long story) It was built 12.5-1 Je's stock rods(why it chucked one)AFX ECU,Iceman air intake,Bored stock Tb,DCR ported Intake,Crane 16's,stock injectors,walbro pump,DCR ported head afx udp,AFX long tube header and a few other tidbits. After it chucked the rod Iused a junkyard 2.0 DOHC of unknown origin.Used the Ported intake and TB,a paceshitter header,Iceman,and AFX ECU.Had also installed a set of coil overs and used same slicks from the DCR setup.Best it went was 14.23@91 Its not rocket science to make one run 14's.Do not use the Indy Intake,Its a big waste of money.Get a AFX Race ECU,itll go great with the other mods you have planned.

That's pretty impressive, I think. The best time I cut at SDAC-23 last summer was a 15.91. I was disappointed but it was very consistent, especially since I hadn't raced it in probably close to 7 years. It was consistent enough for runner up in the bracket race!

I'm a big guy (fat, not tall like Cordes) so that's a handicap. I've weighed my car on the scales at work and it was 2555lbs. (car alone) I really want to be consistently in the 14s (mid 14 ideally) on my street tires which are 205/50-16 Goodyear GS-3s. I used to be able to cut 2.1 short times on my original 14" R/T wheels and the 185/65 Eagle RS-As (they suck but the wheels are SO LIGHT) but at SDAC-23, my best was a 2.3 so that's were my previously quicker times went.

Rough calculations on the .030" milled head should have my compression up to around 10.3-10.5 and with Steve's other headwork and the mildish Crane 12 Cams, based on your mods and times, I do think it is possible.

[Sgt Craig]

Wow, that is some seriously low mileage for a Neon.

and a rarity to see a 1st gen where I work at.I do have some customers with a 2nd gen r/t that I work on all the time.They wont part with it.

- - - Updated - - -


That's pretty impressive, I think. The best time I cut at SDAC-23 last summer was a 15.91. I was disappointed but it was very consistent, especially since I hadn't raced it in probably close to 7 years. It was consistent enough for runner up in the bracket race!

I'm a big guy (fat, not tall like Cordes) so that's a handicap. I've weighed my car on the scales at work and it was 2555lbs. (car alone) I really want to be consistently in the 14s (mid 14 ideally) on my street tires which are 205/50-16 Goodyear GS-3s. I used to be able to cut 2.1 short times on my original 14" R/T wheels and the 185/65 Eagle RS-As (they suck but the wheels are SO LIGHT) but at SDAC-23, my best was a 2.3 so that's were my previously quicker times went.

Rough calculations on the .030" milled head should have my compression up to around 10.3-10.5 and with Steve's other headwork and the mildish Crane 12 Cams, based on your mods and times, I do think it is possible.

Thats pretty light for a r/t.My turbo 98 weighed 2750 with me in it when I ran it in Nopi.The ACR was 2300.

[85boostbox]

I have a 96 coffee machine. Sohc auto. 4 door. I think the wiring harness is toast so I have to pull it out and go through it.

[Trevor404]

Not mine, only wish it had been. Spotted this ultra clean ACR on our way through Idaho last year. No one else understood why I was excited over a pale blue sedan...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b114/trevor404/258702_10152149525455578_719341200_o_zpsda8ee840.j pg (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/trevor404/media/258702_10152149525455578_719341200_o_zpsda8ee840.j pg.html)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b114/trevor404/201163_10152149526295578_1725436168_o_zps66773606. jpg (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/trevor404/media/201163_10152149526295578_1725436168_o_zps66773606. jpg.html)

[ShadowFromHell]

I blew my red turbo coupe up friday :(. Its sprouted a massive oil leak and I didnt catch it and starved the motor. Also didnt help that one of the PO's REMOVED the oil pressure sending unit. Idiots. I had no idea I didnt have any form of oil pressure monitoring! But a few months ago I picked up a used built bottom end. JE pistons and eagle rods, I think they are the 8.5:1's. So thats going in soon and I am going to upgrade from my 16g to a 20g. Even staying with the Begi RRR, I should be able to get it into the mid 12's on 12-15psi :). I have a MS setup for it but am still on the fence on installing it. I am afraid its going to bump my DD to PITA race car status and I dont want that to happen.

Also adding a oil pressure gauge!

[Sgt Craig]

Very tempting.Its been forsale for awhile.I was going to buy a 99 r/t sedan late summer off a friend but his wife drove there other neon into a flooded street.So he backed out of selling it.By the time he wanted to sell it I had the van.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/4355003976.html

[Sgt Craig]

I blew my red turbo coupe up friday :(. Its sprouted a massive oil leak and I didnt catch it and starved the motor. Also didnt help that one of the PO's REMOVED the oil pressure sending unit. Idiots. I had no idea I didnt have any form of oil pressure monitoring! But a few months ago I picked up a used built bottom end. JE pistons and eagle rods, I think they are the 8.5:1's. So thats going in soon and I am going to upgrade from my 16g to a 20g. Even staying with the Begi RRR, I should be able to get it into the mid 12's on 12-15psi :). I have a MS setup for it but am still on the fence on installing it. I am afraid its going to bump my DD to PITA race car status and I dont want that to happen.

Also adding a oil pressure gauge!


Get rid of the BEGI and install the MS or get a portfueler.There was a guy on neons.org that had 2 portfuelers pretty cheap.They work very well.Did the idiots not use the T that hahn included in the kits to use the oil pressure sensor and feed the turbo oil?

[Sgt Craig]

Here are some pics of mine over the years
The 98 Style i paid $250 for,the last neon I owned.I hated this car for some reason.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb289/Cmartjr31/IMG_0612.jpg

My 98r/t I bought new April 2nd 1998.Put 130k on it in 3 years.Bracket raced it just about every weekend.It was a great car.Should have kept it.pics of it have been used in article of mopar now and some ads.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb289/Cmartjr31/007.jpg

The 97 ACR.Found it on autotrader in Va at a dealer.They had no idea what it was.Had 36,000 miles on it,still had the koni's,The Sperm Graphics and alot of dings.Picked it up for $3600 in 01.Original radio delete car but had a/c and rear defrost.Base interior.Had alot of fun with it.Mopar Now took some pics and wrote a article but never ran it for some reason.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb289/Cmartjr31/011.jpg

The 2nd time i owned the ACR

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb289/Cmartjr31/acrdriversside.jpg

[fleckster]

To get in the 14's you dont really have to do that much work.My first R/T(loaded) went 14.7's on D/R's with AFX ECU(Race Version),Iceman,paceshitter header,AFX UDP,thermal muffler,rest of exhaust stock.It was deadly consistent and reliable.

My 97 ACR went 13.69@98 with a DCR built motor before it chucked a rod(not DCR's fault,long story) It was built 12.5-1 Je's stock rods(why it chucked one)AFX ECU,Iceman air intake,Bored stock Tb,DCR ported Intake,Crane 16's,stock injectors,walbro pump,DCR ported head afx udp,AFX long tube header and a few other tidbits. After it chucked the rod Iused a junkyard 2.0 DOHC of unknown origin.Used the Ported intake and TB,a paceshitter header,Iceman,and AFX ECU.Had also installed a set of coil overs and used same slicks from the DCR setup.Best it went was 14.23@91 Its not rocket science to make one run 14's.Do not use the Indy Intake,Its a big waste of money.Get a AFX Race ECU,itll go great with the other mods you have planned.

So you've talked me out of the Indy intake. What sized Thermal exhaust did you run? I can do the header and stuff after I have the head on since it doesn't require pulling the head like a 2.2/2.5L Turbo car. With the TTi being 2.5" and the Thermal being offered in 2.25" and 2.5" size, I don't know if I should redo it all or stay with the stock 2.25". With the AFX race ECU, I'm guessing you ditched the Cat. I wouldn't mind doing that but the Mopar Computer with turn on the MIL. I have a contact that says he can do a custom cal for my Neon with all the Mods but I'm not sure when and if that will happen. Any other mods or changes you might recommend for me? I seriously welcome your input. While I have owned this car since new, I haven't worked on it much and know more about the turbo cars than the 2.0L and making power without boost.

[contraption22]

Craig and the Sebrings are among the only sources I trust for Neon info.

[fleckster]

I understand, Mike! Neons have seemed to dropped off the face of the Earth as far as enthusiasts go. Hardly anyone is playing with them anymore. They seem to be as forgotten as the 2.2/2.5L cars. I'm finding that any info on performance upgrades is at least 5-10 years old. THe only Neons that anyone cares about are SRT-4s. Everyone that is playing with them is doing SRT swaps or turbo kits usually with 2.4L Cloud Car swaps. I am seeing nothing on NA 2.0L builds.

[contraption22]

More and more I kinda wish I had a 1st gen SOHC MTX as a daily commuter. I was even contemplating putting such a drivetrain in my Rampage, because I would really have to get rid of one of the vehicles to justify it.

[Sgt Craig]

So you've talked me out of the Indy intake. What sized Thermal exhaust did you run? I can do the header and stuff after I have the head on since it doesn't require pulling the head like a 2.2/2.5L Turbo car. With the TTi being 2.5" and the Thermal being offered in 2.25" and 2.5" size, I don't know if I should redo it all or stay with the stock 2.25". With the AFX race ECU, I'm guessing you ditched the Cat. I wouldn't mind doing that but the Mopar Computer with turn on the MIL. I have a contact that says he can do a custom cal for my Neon with all the Mods but I'm not sure when and if that will happen. Any other mods or changes you might recommend for me? I seriously welcome your input. While I have owned this car since new, I haven't worked on it much and know more about the turbo cars than the 2.0L and making power without boost.

I only had a thermal on the first R/T .It was the stock 2.25 size.I had Cat with both the ACR and R/T with the AFX Race.The AFX race suposedly wont turn the Mil on for no cat.I never tested this.With the DCR motor I had a 3 bolt flange welded into the Stock exhaust so I could drop it at the track.With the 2nd JY motor in the ACR it was completely stock on the exhaust other than the pacesetter header.For what you have planned the stock exhaust will suffice.What i recomend is AFX solid FMM and AFX bobble(or equivelent solid) if you can stand the vibration and inserts or Deyemme filled side mounts.Iceman air intake if you dont alreadyhave one or can find one.Mopar comp is fine just not as good as AFX Race ECU.So work with what you have for now.

- - - Updated - - -


Craig and the Sebrings are among the only sources I trust for Neon info.

Thanks Mike!

[Sgt Craig]

I understand, Mike! Neons have seemed to dropped off the face of the Earth as far as enthusiasts go. Hardly anyone is playing with them anymore. They seem to be as forgotten as the 2.2/2.5L cars. I'm finding that any info on performance upgrades is at least 5-10 years old. THe only Neons that anyone cares about are SRT-4s. Everyone that is playing with them is doing SRT swaps or turbo kits usually with 2.4L Cloud Car swaps. I am seeing nothing on NA 2.0L builds.

Unfortunately thats the way it seems to be.I so badly want to build another one but I know if I bring a R/T or ACR home the wife will know something is up.I never did a 2.4 swap,if your building a all out drag car its the way to go but the 2.0 DOHC is just fine for a quick street car.I quit giving advice on neons.org cause noone wants to listen.Kids try to make everything really complicated.

[Vigo]

More and more I kinda wish I had a 1st gen SOHC MTX as a daily commuter. I was even contemplating putting such a drivetrain in my Rampage, because I would really have to get rid of one of the vehicles to justify it.

Well, i've owned and DD'd two sohc/mtx neons on separate occasions and while i still have a positive opinion of them, i'm also on my 2nd sohc/mtx Stratus and consider it a much nicer car in most ways. Given the 3.92 trans in the stratus vs the 3.55 in the neon, they're not very far apart in acceleration, and the stratus interior is about 200% less likely to fall apart (mostly the dash) and has framed windows and a MUCH larger back seat (if you care). I think the biggest downside of the Stratus is the relative dearth of 'easy' suspension options and the fact that it's harder to find a 5spd stratus in the first place.

I would definitely take a 1g 5spd stratus any day of the week over a sohc/5spd 2g neon.....

[contraption22]

I do prefer framed windows as well.

[fleckster]

Well, i've owned and DD'd two sohc/mtx neons on separate occasions and while i still have a positive opinion of them, i'm also on my 2nd sohc/mtx Stratus and consider it a much nicer car in most ways. Given the 3.92 trans in the stratus vs the 3.55 in the neon, they're not very far apart in acceleration, and the stratus interior is about 200% less likely to fall apart (mostly the dash) and has framed windows and a MUCH larger back seat (if you care). I think the biggest downside of the Stratus is the relative dearth of 'easy' suspension options and the fact that it's harder to find a 5spd stratus in the first place.

I would definitely take a 1g 5spd stratus any day of the week over a sohc/5spd 2g neon.....

So what your are saying is that for Sgt. Craig, it might be easier to sneek a 5 speed 1g Stratus past the wife and make a fun car out of it than dragging home a Neon which she would suspect. I like the way you think! I have driven one 5 speed 1g Stratus. It was fun enough and handled well for a mid-sizer.

I'd never had any issues with the frame-less windows or dash coming apart in my Neon. Of course, I've owned it since new, it never sees the winter and only has the 57000 miles...Also since mine is an R/T, it has the quicker 3.94 diff trans.

[ATaylorRacing]

Hey Flexster...too bad you don't have a 94-95...Boost Button makes custom computers for them. After I sell a house in Kokomo I will get my body work done on the Cheap Skate and then get a cam and Pacesetter header swapped on...then get the Boost Button stuff...switch from the cheapest gas I can find to 91-93 octane then too. With the few mods I have now premium unleaded made no difference in the 1/4 at all after a couple of months of trying, and made the car more inconsistent.

Another guy that knows Neons well (especially SRT4s) is Kris Krieg....works at Buttons now (as do a few of the former Kokomo Chrysler wrenches - thank God)...and lives in Greentown. He does the work at his Dads house...even has a lift...but VERY swamped!

[fleckster]

Yes, I know Chris and have talked to him many times. We have very good mutual friends. I know he's busy and definitely know SRT-4s. I plan on doing all the work myself now that I have a pole barn to work out of.
49150
I'm still trying to get it set up the way I want with more lighting, paint, seal the floor, better weatherproof the sliding doors, etc. but it is heated and even has A/C!

[Sgt Craig]

So what your are saying is that for Sgt. Craig, it might be easier to sneek a 5 speed 1g Stratus past the wife and make a fun car out of it than dragging home a Neon which she would suspect. I like the way you think! I have driven one 5 speed 1g Stratus. It was fun enough and handled well for a mid-sizer.

I'd never had any issues with the frame-less windows or dash coming apart in my Neon. Of course, I've owned it since new, it never sees the winter and only has the 57000 miles...Also since mine is an R/T, it has the quicker 3.94 diff trans.


If I buy another 5spd 4dr itll be either a R/T sedan or another subbie outback.5spd stratus are getting hard to find.

[Vigo]

I'd never had any issues with the frame-less windows or dash coming apart in my Neon. Of course, I've owned it since new, it never sees the winter and only has the 57000 miles...Also since mine is an R/T, it has the quicker 3.94 diff trans.

Yeah, the interior going to crap is definitely more of an issue in the south. I got a pristine dash piece for my current neon from the junkyard. It was the only TOTALLY uncracked one i've ever seen.. and it came off a car that was rusted to pieces! The ideal old car has a northern interior and a southern body!

I have a boost button pcm in my 95 neon but it has an unfinished header install so i havent driven on it yet. :(

[85boostbox]

Here is my Neon that I just got back up and running. Had to rebuild the harness in it. 96 sohc atx. I like this thing shockingly. No rust in it. Has been up in the salt belt for a few years now but still is clean. Paint is trash on it though. Oh well win some lose some.

[85boostbox]

Anyone know of a 1gn sedan acr neon for sale. Stupid things have grown on me.

[85boostbox]

Stock suspension to full yellow Koni adjustables and mopar high rate springs. It's on rails now. Now time to find a magnum head and header. And some dohc pistons. Why oh why.

Paul

[cordes]

That's pretty sweet. I've definitely developed a soft spot for these things.

[85boostbox]

Thanks. Yeah my next project will be getting all the body molding off. The drivers door is already off. It was hanging for the longest time and finally I got pissed off enough and just ripped it off. So now the rest will come off lol.

Paul

P.S. I think this will be coming to sdac and I will be autox it :thumbup:

[cordes]

Very cool. I'll look forward to seeing it in person.

[contraption22]

Anybody familiar with a torque converter lockup code on a 1st gen? Things to check?

[85boostbox]

Wiring to the switch. Is it coming up for the circuit? I had to fix mine when I redid my harness.

[contraption22]

Wiring to the switch. Is it coming up for the circuit? I had to fix mine when I redid my harness.


Thanks! Check the wiring from the switch to the PCM then?

[85boostbox]

Yes. But my guess would be in front of the trans where it runs down.

[ShadowFromHell]

If your having harness problems I would pull the engine harness and go through it. They are notorious for problems but are easy to repair.

[cordes]

Make sure it is getting up to temp too. I highly doubt that this is the problem, but it is still a possibility.

[85boostbox]

Painted my wheels tonight. Ended up looking decent I think.

[Sgt Craig]

Thanks! Check the wiring from the switch to the PCM then?

They tend to break the wiring near the connector.My 98 Style had this problem.

[85boostbox]

Yeah that is where mine was broken at. Had to splice in about 6 inches of wire to reattach it.

[jonnymopar]

People can say what they want about the 2nd gen Neon, but I love this little car:

http://www.slash9.net/jmopar/pumpersfront.jpg

http://www.slash9.net/jmopar/pumpersback.jpg

2003, SOHC/5-speed. I bought it in July 2005 with only 27k miles on it. It's got 170k on it now (if it wasn't for the Daytona, it would have over 200k). This car has been on more long trips than I can keep track of. About 2 months after I bought it, it decided to put the diff pin through the case as many others have. Still had 2k miles left of the warranty, so it didn't cost me a dime. Since then, this car has asked very little of me as far as repairs. It comes home in one piece EVERY DAMN DAY without an ounce of grief, no matter how I treat it.

[cordes]

What size are those tires? I have a silver neon and a set of spare pumper wheels. Those may go together quite well.

[jonnymopar]

Those are 195/55R15. It's an older picture though. My current tires are 205/55R15.

[cordes]

Wow, how do those 205/55r15s fit in there? Pretty well?

[jonnymopar]

They fit in there perfectly with stock struts. Speedometer is only about 1.5% off, the ride is great, and the extra traction is always welcome!

My former "winter" wheels were 205/60R15 all-seasons on old turbo Dodge snowflake 15" wheels that I simply unbolted from my Daytona and tossed on the Neon. Even those fit! However, the 215/55R16's on Shelby pumpers that are on my Daytona now do NOT fit on my Neon without an 8mm spacer, and even then it's cutting it really close.

Toss some stock SRT-4 struts/springs in and you'll have more room at the same ride height. Base/SXT springs on SRT-4 struts will actually raise your car about 3/4".

[cordes]

Thanks for the info. I'll take that into account when I make my next tire purchase. I'm actually tempted to buy another Neon this summer. The only questions is which one?

[jonnymopar]

The only questions is which one?

Make sure when you're test-driving it, it goes PSSSSSSHHHHHH when you let off the gas. If it doesn't, don't buy it. :)

[cordes]

I would, but they still want too much for the SRT4s vs. a PT GT. I'm really thinking about getting a second gen R/T. This will be for a daily driver so I don't need anything fancy.

[cordes]

Here is a question for everyone. Are there some stock height springs which are a higher rate than the stock springs for the second gen cars? I ordered up some Koni street struts and would like something slightly stiffer, but everything I see is at least a 1.5" drop.

[contraption22]

Here is a question for everyone. Are there some stock height springs which are a higher rate than the stock springs for the second gen cars? I ordered up some Koni street struts and would like something slightly stiffer, but everything I see is at least a 1.5" drop.

You might try stock SRT-4 springs. They should only lower the car slightly.

[jonnymopar]

You might try stock SRT-4 springs. They should only lower the car slightly.

Yup, that was a popular upgrade. The spring perches on SRT-4 struts are 3/4" higher than a stock 2nd gen strut, so without measuring the springs, I'd assume it would only lower your car 3/4".

[cordes]

Thanks for the suggestion guys. I'm now off to research SRT4 spring rates.

[cordes]

Looks like the SRT4 springs will drop the car about 1/2" and are 20lbs stronger. I think we might have a winner. Thanks for the suggestions.

[cordes]

Now to find a set. Does anyone know of a place which sells the stock springs?

[Vigo]

Check facebook groups for partouts.

[contraption22]

Check facebook groups for partouts.

Or have your wife do it :) I'll forward her some ads if I find any.

[jonnymopar]

Check facebook groups for partouts.

I don't know if I'd dare sign on to Facebook today. It's typically a wasteland where everybody knows everything about everything, so I can't imagine how bad it is today.:fencing:

[contraption22]

I put out a wanted thread for them. I'll let you know what I find.

[cordes]

I put out a wanted thread for them. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks a ton. Let me know as I would like to get this done soon. If I have to pull them again I would be willing to do that though.

[ShadowFromHell]

I have a set of 2g R/T springs Id sell. They dont lower the car at all but are stiffer then stock. I do not know how much. SRT perches are only higher in the rear, front is the same from what I understand.

[cordes]

I have a set of 2g R/T springs Id sell. They dont lower the car at all but are stiffer then stock. I do not know how much. SRT perches are only higher in the rear, front is the same from what I understand.

Thanks for the offer. I installed the struts last week and I actually like how it sits right now. Once I do the fronts I'll reevaluate how it sits and rides and let you know if I want something stiffer.

I need to do the brakes on my 1st gen Neon and I'm thinking that a swap to 11" brakes would be a great thing to do. I need to find a 91+ setup, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Does anyone know if the 24mm MC will bolt right on and function properly?

[cordes]

I just ordered up some Koni struts for my 95. Does anyone make a little stiffer spring which won't lower the car at all? That's the last thing this car needs.

[jonnymopar]

I thought the SRT-4 perches were higher all around to accommodate the larger wheels?

Plus (and I could be wrong) that stock 2nd gen springs in a 1st gen would leave it sitting slightly *higher* due to the difference in weight. Anyone confirm?

If the two things I've said above are true, then a stock set of SRT-4 springs would be what you're looking for.

[cordes]

I thought the SRT-4 perches were higher all around to accommodate the larger wheels?

Plus (and I could be wrong) that stock 2nd gen springs in a 1st gen would leave it sitting slightly *higher* due to the difference in weight. Anyone confirm?

If the two things I've said above are true, then a stock set of SRT-4 springs would be what you're looking for.

That does sound promising.

[MaineMopar]

My 2002 R/T has 226k miles. I would love to find a base 2002 to swap everything over and not have a sunroof. That roof is heavy

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[cordes]

My 2002 R/T has 226k miles. I would love to find a base 2002 to swap everything over and not have a sunroof. That roof is heavy

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Did all of the R/Ts come with the sunroof?

[cordes]

Is there a good way to set the timing on the SOHC cars without the covers? I'm fairly certain that I have the timing right, but I would like to verify it before bolting everything back together. I think the most I could be off is a tooth right now.

[cordes]

I'm surprised that the PS pumps are so expensive online. Ours is making a lot of noise and it needs to be replaced. Is the JY the way to go with these? I don't really want to pay $140 for a pump, or $100 for one without a reservoir. It seems like they should be much less money, but I know I'm spoiled by the cheap parts for TMs that I'm used to buying.

[contraption22]

I'm surprised that the PS pumps are so expensive online. Ours is making a lot of noise and it needs to be replaced. Is the JY the way to go with these? I don't really want to pay $140 for a pump, or $100 for one without a reservoir. It seems like they should be much less money, but I know I'm spoiled by the cheap parts for TMs that I'm used to buying.

Does it only make noise when it's really cold? My 98 R/T did that since new.

[cordes]

It's worse when cold, but it makes noise a lot. The fluid was in really rough shape recently too. I think it's headed south and would like to get it done before there's a huge problem with it.

[Aries_Turbo]

i find it odd that it would be dying.

my wifes 98 pump made it 250k without issue and she ran it dry for 23 miles once.

my 97 made it around the same without issue.

is there a filter in the reservoir or anything that can clog up like on the 01-07 vans? those pumps were noisy as hell when the screen in the reservoir gets clogged.

Brian

[cordes]

That's interesting. I'm not sure that there is a filter. Mine has 275K plus on it now. The fluid in it was super nasty recently and the reservoir was low. I flushed it and the sound comes and goes, but is definitely worse when it is cold out. It's a pretty loud squeal really. The pump can get relatively hot too. I just think it's on its way out.

[jonnymopar]

Mine completely died around 170k miles. I needed the car back together quickly and couldn't swing an OEM pump, so I bought a sucky Autozone reman unit. It was noisy, and the noise level was proportional to ambient temperature (below freezing it sounded BAD, but the assist still felt fine). I drove it for almost 50k miles like that with no issues. The fluid never looked funny. The new owner is still using that same pump.

Just a warning: if you end up getting a pump without a reservoir, make damn sure you transfer the little white seal where the reservoir meets the pump!

https://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67975

[cordes]

Thanks for that info. I think I'll try to get a JY unit when the weather turns. The car doesn't currently have AC after the heater core replacement last fall, and I know that Joy won't want to listen to the pump with the windows down in the summer.

[cordes]

My 95 Neon seems pretty gutless, and I believe it still has a cat on it. I'd just as soon remove it and go on with my life. Does anyone know what size the pipe is in there so I can just order stuff up without doing a ton of measuring? I know I'm being lazy, but I've been swamped with projects this summer and would prefer to do this in a lazy fashion. Frankly, that's why I'm hoping that cutting this off and installing a pipe will cure this ill.

[contraption22]

My 95 Neon seems pretty gutless, and I believe it still has a cat on it. I'd just as soon remove it and go on with my life. Does anyone know what size the pipe is in there so I can just order stuff up without doing a ton of measuring? I know I'm being lazy, but I've been swamped with projects this summer and would prefer to do this in a lazy fashion. Frankly, that's why I'm hoping that cutting this off and installing a pipe will cure this ill.

Pretty sure it's 2.25"

[Reaper1]

Does anyone know if there are performance differences between the SRT4 and the regular Neon ABS systems? Basically...are they the same system or does the SRT4 version allow for harder braking before preventing the lock-up?

[contraption22]

Does anyone know if there are performance differences between the SRT4 and the regular Neon ABS systems? Basically...are they the same system or does the SRT4 version allow for harder braking before preventing the lock-up?

ABS systems use wheel speed sensors to determine when a wheel is locking up. Lockup point is more or less determined by the difference in the friction between the pad and the rotor vs the tire and the road. I'll add that the SRT-4 is extremely sensitive to wheel lockup, causing some scary situations on the track when a rear inside wheel gets light. If i were to track my car again, I might disable the ABS.

[Reaper1]

ABS systems use wheel speed sensors to determine when a wheel is locking up. Lockup point is more or less determined by the difference in the friction between the pad and the rotor vs the tire and the road. I'll add that the SRT-4 is extremely sensitive to wheel lockup, causing some scary situations on the track when a rear inside wheel gets light. If i were to track my car again, I might disable the ABS.

Mike, yes, I understood the basic principles...I just didn't know if there was any sort of "performance" advantage where maybe they allowed for slightly more slip angle on the tread before pulsing, etc?

The locking up of the rear wheels during hard braking is my biggest concern, honestly. What does the ABS system do that causes the scary stuff (and I am thinking we are talking trail braking, so we are trying to transfer weight as smoothly as possibly with the brakes and steering angle)? It is a 4-channel system, so I wouldn't think it would mess with the outside rear, which absolutely would cause some puckering.

When researching this, I came across more stuff about disabling the ABS than about its functioning, etc, and I didn't read any of that. Maybe I should. I used to HATE ABS, but it seems to me that the systems are good enough (even 20 years ago) with good tires and brake components that it is worth looking into fitting it into a car that doesn't have it. Especially considering modern cars' stopping distances compared to ours. Even cheap --- people movers can stop in less than 120 feet nowadays...we aren't even getting CLOSE!

If the ABS makes 99% of the driving and handling I do with the car better, and I have to accept that 1% of the time I might need to avoid a certain situation...I think I might be able to deal with that.

[contraption22]

Mike, yes, I understood the basic principles...I just didn't know if there was any sort of "performance" advantage where maybe they allowed for slightly more slip angle on the tread before pulsing, etc?

The locking up of the rear wheels during hard braking is my biggest concern, honestly. What does the ABS system do that causes the scary stuff (and I am thinking we are talking trail braking, so we are trying to transfer weight as smoothly as possibly with the brakes and steering angle)? It is a 4-channel system, so I wouldn't think it would mess with the outside rear, which absolutely would cause some puckering.

When researching this, I came across more stuff about disabling the ABS than about its functioning, etc, and I didn't read any of that. Maybe I should. I used to HATE ABS, but it seems to me that the systems are good enough (even 20 years ago) with good tires and brake components that it is worth looking into fitting it into a car that doesn't have it. Especially considering modern cars' stopping distances compared to ours. Even cheap --- people movers can stop in less than 120 feet nowadays...we aren't even getting CLOSE!

If the ABS makes 99% of the driving and handling I do with the car better, and I have to accept that 1% of the time I might need to avoid a certain situation...I think I might be able to deal with that.

Back in... 04 or 05 I was at a driving school at one of the SDAC conventions. One of the instructors brought his fresh new 350Z out on the course during one of the sessions late in the day. My instructor was egging me to pass him. He was outcornering me, but I was able to reel him in on all the straights. I was very close to his back bumper heading into a tight corner. Inside rear tire lost grip, the ABS kicked in and I ended up MUCH closer than I wanted to be. If the 350Z braked any harder, I'd have tapped him, and who knows what would have happened.

[Reaper1]

From your description, even though it's a 4-channel system, it does not differentiate which wheel to pulse, so it just pulses them *all*? If that's the case, yeah, that's crap and not worth it.

[cordes]

I noticed an 03 R/T in the JY near me. Would something as simple as swapping out the intake pick up power? How much could I pick up if I did the whole top end in my 95? This car is OK to drive around in, but a total dog vs all my other vehicles. It's very frustrating.

[Aries_Turbo]

i think you have to take the entire top end to make the swap worthwhile. and then retune it.... and figure out how to control the variable intake manifold.

Brian

[cordes]

Shoot. I'll have to do some research. I thought you could bolt on the intake and pick up a few HP with it in whatever the default position is. This thing needs something.

[contraption22]

Grab those parts. Your intake manifold will work, although the R/T has a much better active intake which CAN be adapted with an RPM actuated switch. The SOHC R/T "magnum" cylinder head is a significant upgrade over your 1995 head. Get the exhaust manifold too. or use a header with the install. The factory power numbers are 150 for the Magnum and 132 for the standard SOHC, but the powerband is extended extends higher into the revs with the Magnum, without giving up bottom.

Get those parts!

I would say grab the whole engine but the bottom end won't work with your 1995 electronics.

[Reaper1]

Mike, I was hoping to get your feedback on the way you think the Neon ABS was working. Do you think it was pulsing ALL of the channels when it sensed that inside rear lock-up?

[contraption22]

Mike, I was hoping to get your feedback on the way you think the Neon ABS was working. Do you think it was pulsing ALL of the channels when it sensed that inside rear lock-up?

From the way it behaved, I would find it hard to believe that the system only pulsed one caliper.

Check out this old post on SRT forums.

https://www.srtforums.com/threads/abs-and-autocrossing.193623/

And this.

https://www.srtforums.com/threads/need-info-suggestions-on-braking-problems-aka-ice-mode-on-an-srt-4-acr.378324/

[cordes]

Grab those parts. Your intake manifold will work, although the R/T has a much better active intake which CAN be adapted with an RPM actuated switch. The SOHC R/T "magnum" cylinder head is a significant upgrade over your 1995 head. Get the exhaust manifold too. or use a header with the install. The factory power numbers are 150 for the Magnum and 132 for the standard SOHC, but the powerband is extended extends higher into the revs with the Magnum, without giving up bottom.

Get those parts!

I would say grab the whole engine but the bottom end won't work with your 1995 electronics.

Thanks Mike. I'm almost wondering if I should just do a 2nd gen intake swap, although I wonder what the gains are like from a cone filter on a 1st gen neon?

https://blog.modernperformance.com/swapped-a-second-gen-neon-intake-manifold-and-tb-onto-a-first-gen-neon-picsdyno-results

[contraption22]

Thanks Mike. I'm almost wondering if I should just do a 2nd gen intake swap, although I wonder what the gains are like from a cone filter on a 1st gen neon?

https://blog.modernperformance.com/swapped-a-second-gen-neon-intake-manifold-and-tb-onto-a-first-gen-neon-picsdyno-results

Search for the "3.0 intake mod"

Also check this out.

https://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=19172

[Reaper1]

Mike, thanks. Yup, that answers my question. Interestingly they are describing EXACTLY what my truck does and has caused me to rear end 2 people over the years! I try to describe it and everyone is like "no, that's impossible". I F'n HATE it!

[Aries_Turbo]

Mike, thanks. Yup, that answers my question. Interestingly they are describing EXACTLY what my truck does and has caused me to rear end 2 people over the years! I try to describe it and everyone is like "no, that's impossible". I F'n HATE it!

just pull the fuse/wiring so its disabled.

Brian

[cordes]

This thing is driving me crazy. I replaced the fuel filter and I did pick up a little bit of power with the change, as I assume the car can get all the fuel it wants now. However, I noticed that the fuel feed line to the engine is leaking a tiny bit where it is rotted the worst. Since these use the quick-connect fittings, how do you guys replace the sections of hard line? Just use 5/16ths(I presume that's the size?) hard line and convert the fuel filter to a rubber line? I looked at the old filter and it seems like a 5/16 hose would fit a little loose on the barb.

Any ideas?

[cordes]

OK, I guess I could so something like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/Aluminum-Disconnect-Fitting-Adapter-Anodized/dp/B07DXVN9XP/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/134-7037868-6925137?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07DXVN9XP&pd_rd_r=de6b831e-0fce-46d2-af8b-1ae5ebb568ab&pd_rd_w=wFlIq&pd_rd_wg=wqMYu&pf_rd_p=bdc67ba8-ab69-42ee-b8d8-8f5336b36a83&pf_rd_r=54VPK3QBHW8FPM172H8E&psc=1&refRID=54VPK3QBHW8FPM172H8E

https://cppdiesel.com/earls-at165156erl-black-ano-alum-tube-adpt-6-female-an-to-5-16in/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxI_FuJvX6gIVQb7ACh2a1ALHEAQYBSA BEgKlSPD_BwE


https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61SPfsim5mL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-akjyru/products/1253798/images/1040484/at165156erl__28590.1579413166.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

Those would get me to the fuel filter, and from there I could go up to the front of the car with some copper nickel hard line I guess.

[cordes]

Today I pulled off the TB to confirm that it's the larger ATX unit in the car. I also confirmed that the cam timing is correct. A 3.0 CAI is next on the list. If this doesn't do it, then I guess I'll just live with the slow nature of these things. It's pretty bad when our Minivan is so much faster than a little Neon.

[contraption22]

Check the local auto parts store for quick-disconnect fuel line repair kits. You'll probably find all the parts you need.

[cordes]

Check the local auto parts store for quick-disconnect fuel line repair kits. You'll probably find all the parts you need.

Thanks. I'll check there when I pick up the fuel line. I have the AN stuff coming anyway, so this will be a good fail safe. I would like to have this thing finished off sooner rather than later. If I can get a CAI on there to make a little power, all the better. It needs something anyway.

[cordes]

I've been driving the Neon quite a bit over the last few months. I've gotten used to the lack of power, and I've enjoyed the braking and handling with the rotors and pads I have on the car coupled with the wheels and tires.

I had to replace the O2 sensor recently, and I left this bit off. I assume it's for NVH and not necessary for any other function? The only down side I can see is that there's a very small hole at the bottom of the air box letting air in from off the exhaust manifold. I assume that's small potatoes in the grand scheme of things. Any input on if this was a good idea or not?

65197

[INVUJerry]

Shoot. I'll have to do some research. I thought you could bolt on the intake and pick up a few HP with it in whatever the default position is. This thing needs something. Sorry I haven't seen this thread yet! I've had a bunch of neons. To start with, if you swap to a 2gn manifold or RT manifold, you'll also need a 2000 throttle body. You can use a 01-05 throttle body, but the IAC wont work. To make the butterflies function, you can use an RPM switch and have it set to 5000 RPM's. My current daily is a 97 with dohc pistons and a magnum top end, and it's night and day how it feels with the butterflies opened. I don't have an RPM switch on mine just yet though. If you feel up to it, a 01 magnum cam makes a pretty good upgrade, but the 95 cam is kind of a "hot cam" anyway. Here's a dyno comparison if you want to check out the differences with the butterflies, I believe this is with a long tube, magnum head and cam, magnum intake, and mopar DOHC ecu.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VsNaISwbsWs/Te47-ZU189I/AAAAAAAAAfw/cI_xBkah8hc/magnum_manifold_dyno.jpg
The best mod for a sohc neon is easily a tuned ecu. Either a mopar, a boost button cal/flash unit, or a custom tune from Tim Coakely on the neon facebook groups. Modern performance also offers the tuning service, but it's $250, plus return shipping. The 3.94 trans makes a big help, but it does suck on the highway.

[cordes]

Thanks for all that info. I will have a lot to look at when the weather gets warmer.

[cordes]

Well, I had to work on my 05 Neon over the last couple of weeks. I got it fired up for winter beater duty only to have the TB sticking open. That was interesting on the test drive, but I made it home and freed it up with some Kroil. Joy attempted to take it on a relatively short trip only to have it lose power. It didn't take long to determine that it was losing trans fluid rapidly. A tow home and I was able to determine that the line had come out of the fitting in the rad. The little spring clip had broken and allowed it to come loose. If anyone is wondering Dorman 800-801 will get you an assortment of clips, including 4 of the 3/8" clips you'll need should this happen to you.

I did buy Mopar replacement lines off of ebay for $66 shipped, so if I have any further line troubles, I should be able to fix that easily. Good times...

[cordes]

I’m having a heck of a time with our 95 Neon. Multiple codes at once, but the coolant temp sensor has been putting out an intermittent code for some time, so I thought it had finally became a systemic wiring problem. Nope. A new charge temp sensor took care of that code straight away, but the coolant temp sensor code remains.

So far I have replaced the Coolqnt temp sensor

I replaced the coolant temp sensor pig tail up to that main branch of harness

I have verified that the ground is good, and checked the voltage.

I’m not very familiar with the neons, but I’m guessing that it shouldn’t float from about 3.5v to 7v and change. I’m going to see if the computer is putting this out or if the wiring is somehow causing the computer to vary the voltage output.

Is this a common issue, or a sign of a bad computer, or something else?



ETA: I just pulled pin 28 at the computer and used a small Allen key to check the voltage. It will put out 5v constantly with the key on, so I think I’m chasing a wiring problem, which I’m guessing is just waiting to spiral out of control when it spreads to the sensor signal ground or something else. I’ll continue on and update as I make progress.

ETA II: After cleaning the engine harness connector behind the battery, and replacing a section of the line on the engine side, I have a consistent 6.38 or so volts. No floating at all. We will see if it holds up when attached to the sensor. Af for the rest of the harness, it’s an oily mess, but it does seem like the wiring is in good shape. Much nicer than the 97 l had some years ago. From what I can recall that one ended up with new wiring to just about every sensor. It was very ugly, it worked. I’ll update when I get the whole thing back together.

ETAIII: I had a mystery short which popped the fusible link at the starter. It turns out that the alternator cable was grounding to the case and caused the short. Yikes. I’ll replace the fusible link, and go from there. I have no doubt the car will run right now. I’m getting a very steady voltage at the connector for the coolant temp sensor. Frankly, I think I could have gotten by with just a cleaning of the terminals in the connector behind the battery, but the connector itself at the sensor was in rough shape, so better safe than sorry I guess.

[Aries_Turbo]

harness as it goes behind the head on the battery side good? I thought they would rub there and cause all sorts of issues.

Brian

[cordes]

harness as it goes behind the head on the battery side good? I thought they would rub there and cause all sorts of issues.

Brian

It looks surprisingly good there. In the end, I think it was a combination of corrosion in the big connector behind the battery, bad terminals at the sensor, and everything being covered in oil because the VC leaks. It runs as well as it did before. I just wrapped it up tonight. The hardest part was splicing in the new 12ga fusible link section at the starter. Good times.

[jonnymopar]

I miss my Neon. The stupid thing was so simple that it almost never broke, and it did everything I ever asked of it. If you told 23-year-old me that the used Neon I was buying would last me into my late 30's, daily-driven the whole time (and eventually have toddler seats in the back!), I would have thought you were crazy.

That is all.

[cordes]

I miss my Neon. The stupid thing was so simple that it almost never broke, and it did everything I ever asked of it. If you told 23-year-old me that the used Neon I was buying would last me into my late 30's, daily-driven the whole time (and eventually have toddler seats in the back!), I would have thought you were crazy.

That is all.

No doubt. The 95 I bought some years ago is still going fairly strong. It uses some oil, but other than that, it's terrific.

[Aries_Turbo]

i loved my neons too. my wife drove a 98 dohc atx over 200k, and then a friend that we sold it to, drove it for 50k more. i had a 97 sohc atx and i drove mine over 200k and then sold it to a kid who drove it for a few more years.

the NY salt eventually claimed them both...... :(

Id love another 1st gen.... I still have parts and a 2000 parts car with a good T350HD and I have a rebuild kit..... and a 98 dohc top end. and a SRT 2.4....

Brian

[jonnymopar]

In 2005 when I was looking for a Neon, I almost ended up with a 95 sohc mtx for short money, which only had 56k miles on it. Not bad for a 10 year old car at the time. I decided against it and looked for 2nd gens. It was narrowed down to a 02 and a 03, both at local dealerships, both very clean, silver, manual, SXTs. The 2003 only had 28k miles and had powertrain warranty left on it, so I bought it. The stories I could tell about that thing...