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lbaonocsetr
01-02-2013, 11:32 PM
1. is it difficult to relocate the battery to the trunk in a lancer? 2. i made my own cold air system. after a while it started to smoke after hard boost. thought it was my 1year old rebuilt turbo. turns out my inexpierience, i put a reg elbow on the pcv valve and deleted the tube going from the elbow to the airbox therefore making it hard to pull valve cover cap off while car is running, and i think wood cause the blue smoke from possibly pulling oil past piston rings while boosting. so by putting correct 3 hole elbow back on with 3rd hole having a tube with breather on it should allow the motor to breathe again therfore stopping the smoke? sorry for the long story but it seems my turbo is very strong and instead of taking it off and sending it back to CA from PA, does this make sense? thanks

shackwrrr
01-02-2013, 11:57 PM
Without that tube to the airbox you are pressurizing the crankcase causing the blue smoke. You can set it up like stock and just add a tube to your CAI or pipe that line to a catch can.

It is not difficult to relocate but it isn't smart. Any weight you remove from the front takes away traction. I would go with a smaller battery but keep it up front.

cordes
01-03-2013, 12:27 AM
I agree that having the battery in the rear isn't the way to go. I don't think you'll pick up that much power to make it worth wile.

lbaonocsetr
01-03-2013, 05:01 PM
true never really thought about it like that.i was jus lookin for extra room maybe to remake my custom air intake but i can look into a smaller battery. u also said catch can? so oil is going to come out? maybe i should add a pipe to air intake then that way it will put it thru the turbo n putting it back into the motor?

tryingbe
01-03-2013, 09:02 PM
By doing what you did to the PCV system, you basically put boost into crackcase every time you get in boost, it's no wonder you're getting oil smoke. You'll also see oil seeping out the seals, and will eventually pop out the cam cap at the head.

FIX IT SOONER RATHER THAN LATER!

Yes, smaller battery will work fine.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/omniproject/fusebox.JPG

speedfreek500
01-03-2013, 09:17 PM
My battery in my car is in the rear, It was done before i bought it. I DID install a 100amp inline fuse and made a shorter ground, I had alot more room for the 3" intercooler pipes and air filter. This is the best i can find rite now sorry.

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx212/speedfreek500/95.jpg

ShadowFromHell
01-03-2013, 09:22 PM
Ive been running a $25 walmart lawn mower battery in my new yorker. Starts up just fine. If you really want to open up the space I would look at mounting the battery on the other side of the engine bay behind the headlights. Ive seen a few guys do that it it seems to work good.

francois
01-03-2013, 09:53 PM
If you do relocate your battery, it would be wise to use dry cell instead.

I had a car that had the battery in the trunk in the past. Mind you, it was a small car, a CR-X but it had a defective alternator that was charging at 16 volts so yeah, the battery boiled pretty much all the acid and made her dry!
I was wondering why it was smelling bad inside even worst when the window was cracked a bit.
The cluster and the headlight were much brighter let me tell you.

I will never forget that smell.

lbaonocsetr
01-14-2013, 09:30 PM
Hey everyone. So i put the breather on the 3rd hole of the correct pcv valve grommet. Definitly shouldve had that before cuz now i can open the valve cover cap no problem without suction. I been running it in the garage since its on a layup period on my insurance to keep it out of the snow. I still notice some smoke along with condensation so its hard to tell. Should it stop smoking all together with the bad smoke or do u think it has to be run really good for a while n deal with the smoke in the meantime. Im hoping that cuz there might be oil stuck between the ring from when it was suckin it past b4. I hope i fixed the problem and its nothing something more serious. I dont wanna say what to jinx it. Tell me ur advice thanks

lbaonocsetr
01-15-2013, 07:39 PM
please any1

cordes
01-15-2013, 11:50 PM
If you get a lot of oil in the system it can take a little while for it to burn off. It if keeps burning oil after it's nice and hot you've got as problem. Have you made sure that you didn't push out any seals which could be leaking on something hot? Are your plugs wet? Have you done a compression test?

lbaonocsetr
01-16-2013, 04:54 PM
Seals as far as any seals? Jus put a new set of plugs in n i will check. Havent done a compression test yet. I will do so n let u know

cordes
01-16-2013, 09:42 PM
The cam seals in particular. I doubt the oil would readily run down where it would get on the manifold etc., but I would still check.

lbaonocsetr
03-03-2013, 10:46 PM
when i changed plugs b4 the i think number 4 plug wasblack n the ohter 3 were whitish so is that badthat is was black. could it mean something happened withe the valve seats. runs great jus smokes. also notices thatwhen its warm with hood openedn i rev it up lighte amount of smoke comes from out from the back of the motor. is that from the wastegate in the exhaust side of the turbo. recap of what happens. after downshifting sitting at a light notice a lil smoke. start to go while boosting no smoke. after decelleration hard or not like downshifting, when i touch the gas to strart to speed up the smoke comes out for a bit then clears. so after decellerationwhen i get on gas again thats when smoke comes out???????

cordes
03-03-2013, 11:17 PM
did you check the PCV system yet? How is the compression?

lbaonocsetr
03-04-2013, 03:17 AM
Didnt do compression test yet but prolly this week. Is there anything specific i should check with the pcv system or jus the whole routing of it. I did put a breather on the third hole of the grommet new pcv valve when i did plugs

lbaonocsetr
03-04-2013, 06:42 PM
checked the pvc valve system. blew thru pcv goes one way from valve cover to intake. check valve after pcv before intake also blew thru the same way. unscrewed valve cover cap and noticed a lil milky white substance under cap and also in the valve cover end of the pcv. pulled dipstick n oil is black no milky substance there. cap and pcv smelled like gas tho. when i seen that thought it was head gasket but when i pulled dipstck oil looked fine. getting frusterated dont really wanna give up but...

wallace
03-05-2013, 08:29 AM
Is the filter on the breather right at the valve cover? If it is you will get the milk shake in the valve cover. You should add a catch can and a run of hose that will let it breathe and should keep the moisture from getting to the valve cover. How did you do your cold air intake? If the intake you put on the turbo is restrictive under hard boost it will pull oil past the compressor seal. To test pull the cold air stuff off and just run it with nothing on there if the problem goes away that was your issue. If you don't want to run it with nothing on the intake of the turbo plumb a vacuum gauge on the cold air piping as close to the turbo as you can. Go for a drive and boost it and see how bad it is pulling vacuum.

lbaonocsetr
03-05-2013, 04:48 PM
Yes the mini air breather filter is connected right to the grommet of the pcv valve. So ill take that off and ill run a hose to a catch can. The cold air was on for a lil bit b4 i did the xustom front mount. Is it possible that it just took time for it to pass seal n finally gave in. Would i have to replave the seal in tirbo or jus cuz its under stress. Get rid of the stress it will be fine. Also i hope not n i wood think it wood be better than stoxk anyways bit could it be the no name front mount if taking the cold air off doesnt solve it?

wallace
03-05-2013, 04:58 PM
Little hard to understand what you are saying. What diameter is piping you used for the cold air inlet? how long of a run is the piping. Not sure on the compressor seal being ok. You need to verify that the cold air piping is even causing the issue. Do you have any pictures of your setup?

trannybuster
03-05-2013, 05:04 PM
Well having the battery in rear may slow you down a tad but it sure frees up some acreage for custom stuff...!

lbaonocsetr
03-05-2013, 05:26 PM
2 1/2 in piping. I dont kno how to put pics on here. Can u help. I was saying could it be a no name brand front mount resticting it or no?

trannybuster
03-05-2013, 06:41 PM
Use photobucket and then just copy paste address in new post....

lbaonocsetr
03-05-2013, 07:19 PM
http://s1311.photobucket.com/albums/s672/MisterBoost7/?action=view&current=20121001_203724_zps516cd1bf.jpg

tryingbe
03-05-2013, 10:15 PM
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s672/MisterBoost7/20121001_203724_zps516cd1bf.jpg

lbaonocsetr
03-06-2013, 06:12 AM
Instead of the intake tube or filter could it be the intercooler? Being the restriction.

wallace
03-06-2013, 08:23 AM
Pull that cold air intake off and run the car, looks way too small especially the filter. Run the car to see if your smoking problem is gone. Replace with 3" piping and the biggest filter you can reasonably fit. A bolt on inlet bell at the inlet would be a bonus. Intercooler restriction will just mean less boost at the intake and should not cause your smoking issue. To really test how restrictive the intercooler is you need to measure the boost at the compressor outlet, intercooler inlet, intercooler outlet, and intake. This will tell you how much each is costing you from the initial boost at the outlet of the compressor. For a quick check measure the boost at the compressor outlet there should be a barb on there already. Compare that reading to the reading you see at the intake..you need to use the same gauge for each measurement. The difference between the two readings is how much the intercooler and piping are costing you.

lbaonocsetr
03-08-2013, 08:25 PM
Ok. Did compression check. 120-121 across the board. Since plugs 1-3 are burning good, plug 4 was black fouled out. Im replacing the injector thinkin when i get off the gas injector is still dumpin fuel in. When full throttle runs like hell. If only i could floor it all the time. N oil smells like gas. Im thinking thats why its smokes like that cuz oil is so thin that its gettin past rings that way causin it to smoke. So replacing injector oil filter plugs and crossing my fingers!

ShadowFromHell
03-08-2013, 08:59 PM
If you've got gas in the oil that bad, change it ASAP and dont drive the car until you have the problem fixed. Thats what killed the motor in my CSX. It does sounds like you have a bad injector though, should be a easy fix.

lbaonocsetr
03-08-2013, 11:16 PM
Ok still smokes but runs like a bat out of hell. Checked fresh oil has gas in it again. Dunno what else to do. Wanna give up but dont! Grrrrrr! Anymore suggestions. Dunno what else to do

lbaonocsetr
03-08-2013, 11:44 PM
didnt smoke when cold but did when it got hot. maybe ill test fuel pressure regulator to see if its pushin to much in.wants it pushes too much fuel in makes oil thin then starts to go places where it shouldnt. ill try that c what happens?

wallace
03-09-2013, 09:06 AM
Did pulling the air intake off make a difference? Can you see oil in the discharge piping out of the turbo going to the intercooler? The seals may have given up the ghost.

Force Fed Mopar
03-09-2013, 10:38 AM
How did you check the PCV valve? Air pressure or just blow through it with your mouth? Some will leak boost, especially the newer ones. You should be able to put 25psi to it without it leaking bad, if not it will leak boost into the crankcase.

Also, I have had a fpr that leaked gas into the vacuum line, that will make it run rich and gas up the oil.

lbaonocsetr
03-09-2013, 12:19 PM
it seemed to run better w/o air filter but still smoked. checked pcv valve with my mouth. what is an fpr?

Tbird232ci
03-09-2013, 12:28 PM
FPR is fuel pressure regulator. Pop the vacuum line off of it, and see if there is any fuel in the line. I have had the diaphragm rupture, and it poured fuel into the intake manifold.

lbaonocsetr
03-09-2013, 02:15 PM
Ok will try that. I guess ill check the pcm or whatever. That thing that controls the injectors spraying too.

lbaonocsetr
03-21-2013, 09:30 PM
ok.put noide light on injector plugs. #4 is blinking faster.so i guess i need a computer. called fwd and need some advice. since i have cleaned out exhaust, ported exhaust mani cold air and big fm i/c.the equal replacement stage 3 i wood need +20 injectors. instead of wasting my time on stage 4, stage 5 i wood need +40 injectors 3 bar map adj fuel press reg and since theres no head work, i wood jus turn down fuel press to around 40 psi and of course need wideband instead of a/f gauge to determine tune. stage 3 n +20 wood be around 350 ish. other route wood be 820ish. what do i do??????

Force Fed Mopar
03-22-2013, 06:56 AM
Those mods aren't going to make enough difference to need any of that.

lbaonocsetr
03-22-2013, 09:45 AM
stage 3 would havearound 15 or 16 lbs boost. stage 5 wood have 18. r u saying the power difference would not be worth it?

lbaonocsetr
03-22-2013, 10:20 AM
is it true that most of the time if the computer was bad that the car wouldnt run at all? i think im going to check the injector harness b4 i spend some money?

lbaonocsetr
04-12-2013, 06:48 PM
Getting a computer then sellin the car if its fixed or not! Could i have ideas on how much to ask for it. 88 dodge lancer shelby 2.2 turbo interxooled. Big front mount, cold air, rebuilt turbo, ported exhaust mani, muffler, no cat, little patch of rust on drivers side rear quarter right by wheel, 5 spd, runs like hell! Please be kind.