Engine cut out at cruising speeds.

[VaShelby]

As title says. Engine cut out at steady cruising speed. seems more around 3000 rpm range. It has a Boost Button Double Play cal. 10 and 18 psi. and a three bar map. Things I have checked or replaced in an atempt to resovle issue.
This is in my 89 Shelby Daytona 2.2 1. Switched back to stock smec and map- no help - Its not you Boost Button :)
2. Swapped out hall effect with one out of my 88- no help
3. Replaced coolant temp sens.- no help.
4. swapped out 3 bar with brand new one.-no help.
5. Replaced coil with known good coil.- no help

The only things I have'nt checked are O2 and maybe the ASDR?
I have a innovate AFR meter and wide band installed in down pipe but not hooked to smec.

[tryingbe]

Does the dash cut out too?

[VaShelby]

No. but the tach drops but not all the way. its a split second kinda thing.No lights dim or anything like that.

---------- Post added at 09:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 PM ----------

It also goes pig rich when this happens. Forgot to mention this.

[Abkshelby]

That car had a problem with the connector at the fuel pump at one time causing it to cut off.
Not sure if it ever got fixed properly.
ASD relay usually just fails completely but you could swap another one in to check.
Unless the wiring to the O2 is burnt up probably not an issue there. Fairly new O2 was in the car when Sean had it.
Club meeting is Wednesday this week if you want to come discuss it.

[VaShelby]

Sure thing. The ASD in the 88 has diff. housing. wont fit on connector. The O2s plug pins looked a little burnd but was dark by the time I got to them.I could just discard the stock one an connect new wide band cant i?

[shackwrrr]

Sounds like a eprom connection issue. My ostrich will do this if the wire is too close to the battery cable.

[VaShelby]

 Sure thing. The ASD in the 88 has diff. housing. wont fit on connector. The O2s plug pins looked a little burnd but was dark by the time I got to them.I could just discard the stock one an connect new wide band cant i?

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:16 PM ----------

An eprom issue. You mean in smec. Tried old smec and cal'd smec to no avail.

[Abkshelby]

I dunno anything about that wideband stuff.
Only mods I do to these is an MP computer and nothing else.

Seldom ever have a problem in the SMECS other than the power module part doing weird stuff but you swapped them and no improvement.
Check all the grounds under hood again. Something may be loose since that entire harness was removed and reinstalled at one point.

[VaShelby]

Will do that tomorrow. Was thinking about ordering one of those engine grounding kits as well. The old braided stuff is looking a little rough. Well thanks for help AbkShelby. Will see you at meeting wensday. Till the I will check grounds and look over wire diagrams again.

[VaShelby]

can i get electrical diagram from some one on here. 89 Daytona , Shelby. Need diagrams for coolant temp sens and ASD

[cordes]

I had the same problem in my Daytona this past summer. Do you get any codes? Mine was throwing the code 54 for the HEP, but I believe the alt was throwing off a funky wave and causing voltage problems to the SMEC which threw off the HEP signal voltage.

If my alternator hadn't died on the way home I would have never found the issue. I had it towed the rest of the way back from SDAC, did nothing but replace the alternator and it hasn't done it since.

[VaShelby]

well Im getting an O2 code now . But wasnt showing any till tonight. I unplug 02 earlier and pluged back in. then cleared code. but it came back again. Wonder if alt ground is bad. will check output tomorrow along with grounds . thanks for input . thats the second time the alt has been mentioned.

[VaShelby]

Pulled apart 0s connector and found some bad pins

huuumm could this be the culprit?43120 43121

[cordes]

That certainly isn't helping the situation!

[ShelGame]

I had the exact same issue with my old minivan. It would drive fine, then sometimes cutout, sometimes not start etc. It turned out the main ECU ground wire was screwed to the body right under the battery tray (where it was basically invisible with the lower splash covers on). The screw had backed out and so the wire was only touching occasionally. When it would stop touching the body is when it would cut out. I would definitely be looking for a bad/disconnected ground wire. If this is the case with yours, I don't think one of those engine grounding kits would help.

[wheming]

You know, now that you mention your issue, it reminds me... When i was driving MeanMini down to NC from CT when i first got her, she did this on the highway a couple times. Kinda scared the crap out of me from the standpoint of not wanting to be stranded hundreds of miles from my destination!
Although i never determined the cause, i attributed it to bad gas from it sitting for the better part of 8 years. It has done it several times, but had not done it much in the last 6 months or so of driving it. I had not replaced any electrical tidbits.
So thanks for the information here, I'll look at those same areas during the engine and tranny replacement.
:beer:

[VaShelby]

Thanks Shel !!!!!! I will check. Its gotten worse since I put the poly bushing motor mounts in. All the extra vibration could cause something like that to get real bad.

[VaShelby]

Well for all you guys wondering where I have gotten with this issue. Its seems to have been the baro solenoid. removed it from the system and eveything seems to be better. Will know for sure tomorrow. I think I still need to replace some vac lines and such but no more silly sh-t going on with AFR.

[cordes]

Well for all you guys wondering where I have gotten with this issue. Its seems to have been the baro solenoid. removed it from the system and eveything seems to be better. Will know for sure tomorrow. I think I still need to replace some vac lines and such but no more silly sh-t going on with AFR.

That's great to hear. The baro solenoid gave me trouble in my Daytona a couple of years ago, but it threw a code 13 in the process so that made it a little easier to track down.

[turbovanman²]

Well for all you guys wondering where I have gotten with this issue. Its seems to have been the baro solenoid. removed it from the system and eveything seems to be better. Will know for sure tomorrow. I think I still need to replace some vac lines and such but no more silly sh-t going on with AFR.

I was going to suggest you bypass that, had that exact issue years ago, I almost took a torch to the van, found it by a total fluke.

[VaShelby]

Well still haveing issues. A couple of good things have come out of this so far. Found a few things that need tending to. One was fuel pump. could not get power connector off and damaged plug on pump. Kinda figure this was my problem with engine cutting off. Pump was failing do to bad connector and or pins. Ordering a new pump.Seems as though I have had more than one thing causing my problems with car.

[turbovanman²]

I also had the SDS cause a cut out issue, simply disconnecting the electrical connector fixed that too until I put a new sensor in.

[VaShelby]

:confused:SDS?

[looneytuner]

Speed distance sensor.

[VaShelby]

Ahhh. Think I might have solved it . Again gonna save judgement till it runs for a couple of days. Got fuel pump in record time from rock auto. Ordered sat. got it today and installed it. car ran well and held 18 psi of boost with no issues.Tomorrow I will replace spark plugs and fuel filter. I think I need to clean and or replace AIS as well. Car Idles down to zero sometimes.And I found out something . If you add 6lb of boost you need to add 6 ld of left to the steering wheel when to step on the gas.!!!!!! LOL

[VaShelby]

Well back to the drawing board. After changing fuel pump car ran great. Ran great today till I went to lunch and it cut out again. Did it on way home as well. also would run pig rich (9 afr) then go lean(16+afr) for a sec. and back to 14 afr.Only thing I have not done to the car is change AFPR. Any comments are wellcome. Oh yeah I have only code 12 but light comes on for a sec every now and the. Mostly a low rpm.:confused:

---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 PM ----------

The only thing I did diff. From the time car wasnt running, from friday till yesterday when I installed pump. Was just that. I didnt start it at all. Why a couple of days not running would make a diff I dont know.:confused::confused:

[VaShelby]

Things I have done to solve problem.

swapped from cal'd computer to stock along with map.
swapped 3 bar with brand new one for cal'd computer.
replaced coolnt temp sens
replace fuel pump
replaced fuel filter
replaced spark plugs. old ones looked fine.

And could the SDS cause this issue?

[VaShelby]

Well guys . Dont have a clue whats up with car. And now my radiator sprung a leak!!!!WTF!!!! Anyways. While its down Im gonna redo vac system and injector harness.Talk to Shel and see if cal wont support FFV injectors with a larger throttle boddy as well. My even finish port matching new head to two peice intake and intake to thottle body. You guys have fun. im gonna be busy for a while.

[cordes]

Keep us updated. This is a rough one for sure.

[VaShelby]

Well cordes . I was pulling apart front harness to see what was up and found that the black wire from smec to on of the pick up coil plugs was broken at a splice. Crimped and soldered that back together. Need to check rest of front harness and still getting codes for map and charged air sens . So Im gonna go take back harness apart and see what I find.

---------- Post added at 04:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:52 PM ----------

Someone told me to check my grond splices in harness awhile back ago. Guess I should have listened.:banghead:

[cordes]

That should make a difference for sure. Thanks for the update.

[VaShelby]

Morning. Time to finish tearing through harness. Haven't found anything yet. Hopeing maybe its the TPS. If that goes bad I would think it could send faulty voltage to temp sens and map sens

[cordes]

Morning. Time to finish tearing through harness. Haven't found anything yet. Hopeing maybe its the TPS. If that goes bad I would think it could send faulty voltage to temp sens and map sens

I'm not sure what 5v feeds are shared in our harnesses, but I do know that they share a common sensor signal ground.

[VaShelby]

Well Ill check that violet and wht wire then. Think thats the signal ground.

[cordes]

Well Ill check that violet and wht wire then. Think thats the signal ground.

Black with blue tracer is the sensor signal ground for most all of the stuff. You can check on minimopar though.

http://www.minimopar.net/ecu/smec-1988-t2.html

[VaShelby]

Wow cordes. That some good stuff . lol. Glad you sent me that link. will save it for sure. When the rain stops around here i will check that sens ground out.

[VaShelby]

Well one step closer to getting thing right. Had bad ref. ground to air temp sens. Replaced with temp wire and cleared that code. Replaced TPS and cleared that code. Car idles and runs a lot smoother. Thanks for tip on ref ground wire cordes.

---------- Post added at 11:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 AM ----------

Gonna go try installing cal'd smec and see what happens. Wish me luck!!!!

[cordes]

No problem. I'm glad that you have it running well again.

[mpgmike]

Well, I had a recommendation in mind, but it looks like it probably isn't needed. I'll keep checking back and if symptoms persist, I'll post. Glad you're making progress. The more frustrated you get, the sweeter success tastes.

Mike

[VaShelby]

Still waiting on that sweet taste of success!!!!!. I have tried everything I could think of. When i get time Im gonna go back through harness leading to distributer and see what I find.Any recomendations would be great at this time. I even installed vac block to insure good vac to systems.4392143920

[VaShelby]

As you can see in picture I have been through harness. Waiting on some new loom to come in the mail to dress it back up. Got a feeling Im still missing something in the front harness.

[VaShelby]

Well still looking for some more thoughts. Maybe sticking injectors. Used some heat injector cleaner. or maybe intermitant turbo failure? Still haven't had time to go back and recheck harness to distributor. Will do that after work tomorrow.

[1984rampage]

Mine has the same issue... Goes super rich cuts out then bounces back to 14-15:1 then goes rich again and then lean again

[VaShelby]

Well gonna attempt recal of wide band 02 sens. See if that helps.Allso down pipe flange was loose. Dont think that is the problem. But Tightened it up. Might need a new dougnut. Rampage. If you found the culprit let mw know buddy. LOL. Been racking my brain for a while on this one.

[turbovanman²]

Did you disconnect the SDS like I suggested?

What about bypassing the baro soleniod?

[85boostbox]

I bypassed the baro solenoid for him at the january club meeting and it seemed to help. I take it that the problem returned.

[VaShelby]

Baro is bypass and just got code last night for auto shut down relay circiut. have not had that code. I was checking to see if I could reconnect factory O2 but couldnt because I needed to repin connector. Then got side tracked on vac lines and left unpluged when I went to test drive again. thats when engine code 42 showed up but car drove great for about an hour then went to ---- again. I know that ASD relay controls power to heater on O2 fuel [ump I think and ignition. If I can bypass ASD I will today after work. might be looseing control power to ASD. I have been told if relay gose bad it just gose so it might be wiring in harness to ASD. only thing I think that I have not checked. Will reply back when I check it out.Ill allso check SDS. Its brand new and wires seem to be fine but will double check if ASD leads to dead end. Thanks again for yours and everybodys input so far.

---------- Post added at 05:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:51 AM ----------

Hey Boost. Missed you at last meating!!!!! Yeah Prob is still there.

---------- Post added at 05:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:00 AM ----------

[VaShelby]

Well I have bypassed ASD. Car seems to be running right. As long as I dont forget to pull jumper and kill battery. But again will hold judgment . Will check ASD control cir. tomorrow after work.

[VaShelby]

Well every wire I have checked leading to and from --- relay seems to be good. Car still seems to have same problem with --- plug jumped out. Gonna keep searching.

[trannybuster]

Best advice I can give is..dont get stuck on the same thing, keep moving....you say it happens around 3000rpm, is it pig rich just before or afterwards? If after that means injectors still recieved a signal and pulsed...so you had fuel but no spark, something cut spark, maybe connect a bulb to the hot side of coil and see if it shuts down while driving...what happens in the cal at 3000rpms at "x" amount of boost..?... I feel for ya...the GLHS is getting a smec, Im sick and tired of all the issues of old crappy wires.....

[RoadWarrior222]

Yah, old wires, these can get brittle and crack, and pick up chafes and pinholes from stretching or a rare manufacturing bubble, and over the years moisture gets in and turns the copper to green gunk, trouble is, they're damn hard to spot. Found some on my van, that I kinda lucked out with because there was just the merest strand of copper left in there that bashed it's ends together when I wiggled the wire and made my continuity bleeper bleep, then looking reaaallllllllllllllll close I could see what had happened.

It's probably not a bad idea if you've got a working T-M to hose the wires down with silicone or something every year, to seal anything like this before it rots out and gives you conniptions.

[VaShelby]

Well the only thing I have not checked into real good is speed sensor. I guessing since it is connected to distributor it could be culprit. But gonna start ordering parts to rebuild harness.

[VaShelby]

Well while trying to hunt down the source of the problem I have found yet another little thing that needed to be replaced. I decided to check out distrubutor a little closer and found that base plate for blades that pass through picup was loose. I figure this isnt the sole source of my problem but its is one of the few good things that have come out of trying to get at the heart of my issue. Oh I got my weather pack connector kit in mail. Starting to research how to go about doing harness.

[VaShelby]

Up date. I went out and paid the big bucks for a MP pick up coil. Didnt work. So I tried my cal'd smec and things cleared up. Why it decided to work with cal'd smec Im not sure. I did make fix on pic op coil wires in harness. The were dry rotted.But that didnt make a diff wuth stock smec. Might swap back later to see if the semc is the prob. But I want to solve other issue that have been huanting my car as well. I have a high idle issue. Car idles anywhere between 1500 and 2000. I have tried base idle reset. didnt work. tried other valve and that didnt work. Im not sure what the iac works off of. What sensors tell it how far to open. I would assume the the cts and the O2. Ant ideas would be great. As long as you dont say its the smec!!!! LOL

[Abkshelby]

There is no "base idle" set on these cars. Minimum air flow is preset at the factory and usually never needs to be adjusted again. If you've messed with the "idle" screw everyone screws with put it back close to where it was. Make sure your speed sensor is reading 0mph with the car not moving. Make sure your TPS connector is tight and that the TPS itself is ok. Your trying to fix everything at once with this thing and bypassing common issues that could be causing most of the problems. Your under hood harness has issues that need to be corrected or just replace the entire harness. (That may be impossible unless you rewire it yourself) You've I know checked grounds which are crucial. I'd toss every SMEC you have in the garbage and start over with another one. Just sayin'.

[VaShelby]

Just thought I would update this thread to say that car is running well. Fix bad wires to CTS and hep. replaced batt ground wire. It was green. Cleaned smec ground wire under smec. Car did great a Dyno run.http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?71131-Dyno-run.&highlight=