TurboMinivan
08-15-2006, 10:58 AM
I'm looking to sell my 1987 CSX #95. It has been a Utah car all its life, originally sold at Hinckley Dodge in Salt Lake City. I am the fourth owner. The car has a clean Utah title which lists the car as a Shelby, not a Dodge. I don't have any substantial pictures at the moment, so I'll try to explain things in depth. Have any questions? Email me: dempsey at xmission dot com.
ENGINE
The original engine spun a rod bearing a couple years ago. I replaced that engine with the strongest shortblock possible (assembled by C&T Machine in Orem, Utah). I was planning to eventually throw 30+ psi at this new engine, so I spared no expense and chose my hardware accordingly:
-common block
-custom ROSS forged pistons
-factory forged connecting rods
-factory forged 2.2L crankshaft
-ARP Pro Series Wave-Loc rod bolts (the kick --- ones)
-AutoMeter Ultra-Lite EGT guage mounted on steering column
-Dawes air/fuel gauge mounted to side of EGT gauge pod
-custom 3-core ShelbyZ radiator
When I installed the new engine, my plan was not to touch the head until I could pay for a proper port job. Therefore I reinstalled the head and manifold assembly just as it was--I reused the stock 2-pc intake manifold, stock turbo, etc. After a proper break-in, engine has seen nothing but Mobil 1 oil exclusively. It works flawlessly.
MODIFICATIONS
-Mopar StageII computer
-Grainger valve set to 14 psi (for fastest possible boost response)
-2.5" pipe from cat to 3" UltraFlow round muffler
-1st gen DSM BOV in upper IC hose
-K&N drop-in filter in stock airbox
-manual radiator fan switch on dash
-underhood A/C components have been removed
These are the only changes which have been made. I was waiting to upgrade the intercooler and fuel system before upping the boost.
TRANSMISSION
I originally bought the car because the former owner destroyed the A-520's third gear. I decided to go stronger and found an A-555 to replace it. Not wanting to leave any bases uncovered, I purchased a chromoly end plate from Relentless Performance and had it installed before bolting the transmission in place. While doing the tranny swap, I noticed (with alarm) that the former owner had installed a Centerforce clutch. It was almost brand new, so I let it go for the time being. Sure enough, it ended up self-destructing... so I have since upgraded to a 4-puck ceramic clutch kit (also from Relentless Performance). It operates perfectly but the throwout bearing sometimes makes noise at idle. (Yes, I installed the new one that came with the kit.)
SUSPENSION/TIRES/ETC
-Front Koni adjustable struts (white Koni adjuster knob is in glovebox)
-stock 4-wheel disc brakes
-stock Shelby wheels are present with the typical degraded clearcoat
-wheel locks
-Toyo Proxes FZ4 205/50 tires with 75%+ tread life remaining
INTERIOR
As is typical, the corduroy seat fabric was ripped to shreds when I got the car. In a fit of rage over the stupid "El Cheapo" seat covers installed by a previous owner, I removed and chucked all the seats. I found a gorgeous pair of manual buckets out of a Shelby Daytona, swapped them onto P-body seat brackets and bolted them in. They look and feel great. There are still no rear seats in the car, but all brackets are still present so it will be easy to reinstall them if desired.
The headliner is kinda ripped up, but it doesn't hang down or distract the driver in any way. The Shelby dash plaque is still present. I installed an aftermarket CD stereo and used a proper patch kit so as to preserve the car's wiring.
The rear defogger worked very poorly due to deterioration of the grid, so I bought a new rear window. I had it professionally tinted (5%) and professionally installed. I intended to have matching tint installed on the rest of the car but never got to it.
Only a month ago, I got a rock chip in the windshield on the highway. I dutifully had it professionally filled and was quite happy... until the sun came out two days later and a two foot crack appeared. I am waiting to negotiate this fix with the car's new owner: I can take care of it or I won't touch it if you prefer.
EXTERIOR
Sometime in the past, the car took a minor hit on the right front corner. The hood was straightened and primered; the fender was either replaced or straightened and also primered. It looks like someone began trying to fix the door but then stopped; it's still got a dent and some exposed filler. Since the clearcoat has baked off much of the car (gotta love that desert sun), I just figured I'd replace the door when I repainted the car.
The entire Shelby body kit is present. The rear Shelby medallion is still on the hatch. I have new Mopar door seals for both doors (the ones that go around the entire opening) and also new Mopar window seals (the ones on the outside at the bottom of the door windows--they include the black metal strips as well).
There is light surface rust on the roof (there's that desert sun again) but it is nothing substantial. In fact, I have found no real rust anywhere on or underneath the car. The right door makes it look a little sad, but it's actually a pretty solid car. I have a number of pictures of the car; you can see them all here:
http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/csx/
http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/csx/lft_frnt.jpg
http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/csx/seats.jpg
I have tried to be as thorough as possible in this post. I'm probably forgetting something, and I apologize for that. If you want/need clarification, email me. I will sell the car for $2700 as it sits or $2850 if you want me to have a new windshield installed--I'll let you make the decision. I cannot deliver the car, but I may be able to drive it part of the way to you if needed. Contact me at: dempsey at xmission dot com and we'll talk. :thumb:
-Dempsey
ENGINE
The original engine spun a rod bearing a couple years ago. I replaced that engine with the strongest shortblock possible (assembled by C&T Machine in Orem, Utah). I was planning to eventually throw 30+ psi at this new engine, so I spared no expense and chose my hardware accordingly:
-common block
-custom ROSS forged pistons
-factory forged connecting rods
-factory forged 2.2L crankshaft
-ARP Pro Series Wave-Loc rod bolts (the kick --- ones)
-AutoMeter Ultra-Lite EGT guage mounted on steering column
-Dawes air/fuel gauge mounted to side of EGT gauge pod
-custom 3-core ShelbyZ radiator
When I installed the new engine, my plan was not to touch the head until I could pay for a proper port job. Therefore I reinstalled the head and manifold assembly just as it was--I reused the stock 2-pc intake manifold, stock turbo, etc. After a proper break-in, engine has seen nothing but Mobil 1 oil exclusively. It works flawlessly.
MODIFICATIONS
-Mopar StageII computer
-Grainger valve set to 14 psi (for fastest possible boost response)
-2.5" pipe from cat to 3" UltraFlow round muffler
-1st gen DSM BOV in upper IC hose
-K&N drop-in filter in stock airbox
-manual radiator fan switch on dash
-underhood A/C components have been removed
These are the only changes which have been made. I was waiting to upgrade the intercooler and fuel system before upping the boost.
TRANSMISSION
I originally bought the car because the former owner destroyed the A-520's third gear. I decided to go stronger and found an A-555 to replace it. Not wanting to leave any bases uncovered, I purchased a chromoly end plate from Relentless Performance and had it installed before bolting the transmission in place. While doing the tranny swap, I noticed (with alarm) that the former owner had installed a Centerforce clutch. It was almost brand new, so I let it go for the time being. Sure enough, it ended up self-destructing... so I have since upgraded to a 4-puck ceramic clutch kit (also from Relentless Performance). It operates perfectly but the throwout bearing sometimes makes noise at idle. (Yes, I installed the new one that came with the kit.)
SUSPENSION/TIRES/ETC
-Front Koni adjustable struts (white Koni adjuster knob is in glovebox)
-stock 4-wheel disc brakes
-stock Shelby wheels are present with the typical degraded clearcoat
-wheel locks
-Toyo Proxes FZ4 205/50 tires with 75%+ tread life remaining
INTERIOR
As is typical, the corduroy seat fabric was ripped to shreds when I got the car. In a fit of rage over the stupid "El Cheapo" seat covers installed by a previous owner, I removed and chucked all the seats. I found a gorgeous pair of manual buckets out of a Shelby Daytona, swapped them onto P-body seat brackets and bolted them in. They look and feel great. There are still no rear seats in the car, but all brackets are still present so it will be easy to reinstall them if desired.
The headliner is kinda ripped up, but it doesn't hang down or distract the driver in any way. The Shelby dash plaque is still present. I installed an aftermarket CD stereo and used a proper patch kit so as to preserve the car's wiring.
The rear defogger worked very poorly due to deterioration of the grid, so I bought a new rear window. I had it professionally tinted (5%) and professionally installed. I intended to have matching tint installed on the rest of the car but never got to it.
Only a month ago, I got a rock chip in the windshield on the highway. I dutifully had it professionally filled and was quite happy... until the sun came out two days later and a two foot crack appeared. I am waiting to negotiate this fix with the car's new owner: I can take care of it or I won't touch it if you prefer.
EXTERIOR
Sometime in the past, the car took a minor hit on the right front corner. The hood was straightened and primered; the fender was either replaced or straightened and also primered. It looks like someone began trying to fix the door but then stopped; it's still got a dent and some exposed filler. Since the clearcoat has baked off much of the car (gotta love that desert sun), I just figured I'd replace the door when I repainted the car.
The entire Shelby body kit is present. The rear Shelby medallion is still on the hatch. I have new Mopar door seals for both doors (the ones that go around the entire opening) and also new Mopar window seals (the ones on the outside at the bottom of the door windows--they include the black metal strips as well).
There is light surface rust on the roof (there's that desert sun again) but it is nothing substantial. In fact, I have found no real rust anywhere on or underneath the car. The right door makes it look a little sad, but it's actually a pretty solid car. I have a number of pictures of the car; you can see them all here:
http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/csx/
http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/csx/lft_frnt.jpg
http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/csx/seats.jpg
I have tried to be as thorough as possible in this post. I'm probably forgetting something, and I apologize for that. If you want/need clarification, email me. I will sell the car for $2700 as it sits or $2850 if you want me to have a new windshield installed--I'll let you make the decision. I cannot deliver the car, but I may be able to drive it part of the way to you if needed. Contact me at: dempsey at xmission dot com and we'll talk. :thumb:
-Dempsey