TIII build guidance

[Tim Kish]

Long time listener, first time caller....

Actually just first time TIII engine. What are the gotta-have's when building one of these. I've read alot about the lifters, the belt tensioner, etc. My motor (which has been apart since 99) had 102k, ingested the compressor wheel of the stock turbo. Several years ago I had a set of pistons made by Wiseco, Indy cylinder heads welded up the head which has also been ported and I have an "upgraded" turbo from Rick D - all stuff that's been on the shelf waiting patiently.

1) It doesn't look like the TIII has a problem with balance shaft removal so we'll go ahead with that

2) What's the story on the oil pumps, unique issues to TIII?

3) Rockers/Lifters - any magic to keeping them alive. I see in my parts tray that the caps and tips have fallen off of some of them.

I'm not trying to make a race car out of this but I want to put it together right the first time.


Thanks for the help!


Tim Kish
Former Turbo Dodge guy - converted to Neon guy

[Kryp2nitE]

1.) You will need change to a different pickup or pan if you remove the balance shafts. Chris at TU put baffles in my stock pan and powdercoated it, looks really nice all done up. The other option is going to a non-BS CB oil pan with the non-BS pickup.

2.) Stay away from the High volume ones is what I've seen reccomended, if the teeth arent chewed up you should be ok. Might wait for someone else to verify. You are planning the Jackson Idler Relocation?


3.) Lifters are a good idea they are easy to do with the engine in: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?64596-Upgraded-lifters&highlight=

Rollers, from what I've ready are just something you keep an eye on, the 92-93? setup I think is better for this.
I dont think anyone makes new rollers either, jusr salvage an old one. Going to be looking soon myself for at least one.


Mods after the basics: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?63735-Mods-after-the-basics&highlight=

IC Piping install tips: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?62981-Tips-for-IC-piping-install-2.5-quot-3-quot&highlight=

[turbovanman²]

I would do the modified valve spring retainers, adjustable cam gears-totally worth it, you need a proper timing belt tension gauge and lifters from Cindy unless your patient and just use grease to keep the tips in place-did that on my first set.

Install some good auxillary shaft bearings, inspect the teeth for any wear that went thru the surface-throw it away, and reuse the stock oil pump if the gears are good and the drive gear is good. I haven't had good luck with aftermarkets.

I recommend balancing as they are out a bit but that's up to you.

What power are you looking for? That will dictate if you keep the stock rods or get some aftermarket ones.

Rockers, just make sure the pins are centered and the rollers aren't loosing their facing. Are your cams ok? I like the later model hold downs, they don't dig in but hard to find and people want alot of money for them, :(

[wallace]

Another option on the BS delete is to use your existing pan and a windage tray/scraper from ishihara-johnson.

[Tim Kish]

Thanks. This gives me some places to start. What's your thoughts on calibrations? I see a few options from Cindy, didn't know power vs driveability vs fuel mileage. I want it to run decent but I'm not trying to build a race car. For checking/setting timing belt tension, by proper gauge are you refering to the same style gauge used for poly-V belt tension measurement, I have those at my disposal. I'll look up this Jackson idler relocation you reference.

I have a CB non-BS oil pan and pickup in the shop with a windage tray, leftovers from my last 2.2 race motor (late 90's!). For rods I was thinking stock, what's the latest thinking in terms of HP limit on the stock rods?

Tim

[turbovanman²]

Cindy's are fine, Boostbutton.com started doing them or you can do your own.

Yep, v belt tension gauge.

I wouldn't go past 400 whp with stock rods but that's me, king of carnage. :eyebrows:

[30 PSI SHADOW]

cindys cals are very good for a bolt in. runs great for me. 122mph on 22psi.

[Pat]

I run an older FWD cal in my T3 Shadow. Its gone 10.98 @ 129.99 on that cal with +40's, no spray. Driveability is great, fuel mileage was about 30 on the highway, 22 ish in the city. I highly recommend them.

Stock rods will go a long way but at 400+, any detonation risks bending them.

[rx2mazda]

Cindy's TIII cals are awesome! I ran one for awhile and was very pleased with the performance & gas mileage.