fires up and dies con't

[turboshelbys]

I am having the exact same problem with my 87 glhs(converted to 87 lm). car has ran absolutly fine. went to start it up yesterday and it does the exact same thing he is describing to the T. i have done all the things suggested on this thread even swapped out lm's pcm's coil hep inj harness inj etc from my other running car, nothing changes.

how do you bypass the asd on 87 electronics?

also my ignition switch has acted up before, does this have any control on the asd?

[Shadowjake]

I wish I was more familiar with 87 systems. I know my issue was from using a SBEC from a car with a factory security system. Not sure what your problem could be. Good luck!

[turboshelbys]

I started reading your thread and thought i was going to find the answer at the end:confused2:

my car ran absolutly perfect, moved it out of my garage. went to pull it back in and no go.

[cordes]

The ASD relay is in the PM on the LM setups.

[turboshelbys]

I realize that, but is there a way to bypass it? I am certain that it is being tripped, but i am not getting any codes and all the things that i know of that would trip it are not. is

[cordes]

I've never tried to bypass one. I've always tried another PM. If the same thing is happening with two or more PMs there is an exceptionally low probability of it being the ASD on both boards.

[turboshelbys]

true, i just want to rule that out as well. i am wondering what would trip the asd to kick in and shut the car down, i am fairly certain that is what is happening according to all the test i have done. i just wondered if i could bypass it to make sure

[turbovanman²]

Ignition switch powers up the + side of the PM and maybe the LM, don't have a wiring diagram here. Any codes?

Check grounds and powers to the LM and PM, I had a customers car run fine then die overnight, power wire going from the PM inside the car stopped delivering power, fixed that and she fired right up. Use an old sealed beam headlight to check the grounds properly, a multimeter isn't good enough.

Have you tried putting 12 volts to the + on the coil and seeing if it starts?

[turboshelbys]

am getting a 27, i have replaced the fuel inj harness and injs with a known good ones. from what i have read that code should not put the car into limp mode or trigger the asd though. i have check the ground, pulses and such. i am fairly confident that something is triggering the asd to turn on. i am wondering what events can cause it to turn on.

when I turn the key on and the pump and and injectors prime, it fires up for that moment and kills.

If I try cranking without priming again, it will just crank and there is no spark or fuel delivery

But each time I prime and then crank, it will fire up again.

[glhs727]

I was helping him for a short time yesterday and here is some more info
You can run 12v straight to the coil but it still starts and dies. ASD signal wire is seeing voltage. everything sees voltage (fuel pump, coil, etc..) when you first turn the key then as soon as it starts it dies like the asd is triggered because at that point no spark or fuel. My guess would be a short in a power wire somewhere causing it to feedback through the ground and setting off the asd. It would be a pain to pull the entire harness both under dash and engine to try and find the one little wire that might have gone bad.... so I'm sure he is hoping for less intrusive solution

[turboshelbys]

so I'm sure he is hoping for less intrusive solution

:amen:

[tryingbe]

Is fuel pressure good?

Fuel hose could have popped of inside the tank.

[turboshelbys]

Fuel pressure and volume is good

[ShelGame]

Have you tried a different power module?

[glhs727]

yes, tried 3 different PM's know good, 2 HEP's, 2 LM's, 2 coils, another set of injectors, injector harness,

[cordes]

Have you verified that key on power isn't lost at all when it dies? I had a problem with an ign switch several years ago which put the car down for months.

[turboshelbys]

Have you verified that key on power isn't lost at all when it dies? I had a problem with an ign switch several years ago which put the car down for months.

i started to check that, but didnt finish yet. was it the switch that went bad for you? or a bad wire?

also, the radio lights, a/f gauge and dash gauges all stay working when it dies.

[cordes]

i started to check that, but didnt finish yet. was it the switch that went bad for you? or a bad wire?

also, the radio lights, a/f gauge and dash gauges all stay working when it dies.

It was the switch itself. If the dash stuff doesn't die it probably isn't the ignition switch. I was killing the switch at the HVAC terminal which was on the same bus as the rest of the dash. I would intermittently lose the engine and all stuff in the car, but it behaved like a mysterious bad ground unfortunately.

[turbovanman²]

Like I suggested earlier, check each power and ground, sounds like you might have a bad ground that's floating. I had a car towed in the other day, would start and die, check the grounds with a multimeter, good, checked with a test light good, used the old head light trick, bad, found it just touching the bellhousing, they'd just done some tranny work and forgot to reinstall it, installed it and boom, fired right up.

[Shadow]

When is the last time any thing was done or changes on the car? And what was it?

---------- Post added at 01:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:25 PM ----------



Ha! Just read the whole other thread and see it was Not Your Car! lol

Had a Daytona do something like this years ago. After going to 5 or 6 other shops it ended up on my doorstep. After a quick look-see I found the coil wire was not tightened down, Bingo!

So like Simon said, look for anything loose like that.

You might also want to try by-passing the baro solonoid and go straight into the map sensor. I've seen the baro's stick shut and do the same thing. (usually a map code though)

[turboshelbys]

i will try the headlight trick for sure to put the wires under load. thanks for the replies everyone, wish me luck:hail:

[cordes]

i will try the headlight trick for sure to put the wires under load. thanks for the replies everyone, wish me luck:hail:

Make sure you use sense when using that technique. Using the headlight on lower voltage and sensitive stuff like the computer will pull enough amps to fry them.

[5sp. mini]

keep posting when you fine a fix i also has a 86 that i did t11 swap 87lm and can,t get it to run more than a few sec, then dies have been looking for 2to3 weeks same thing 2pms 2heps junk yard map and barr. still just starts then shut down see vid. i posted

[turboshelbys]

Make sure you use sense when using that technique. Using the headlight on lower voltage and sensitive stuff like the computer will pull enough amps to fry them.

yes sir, thanks

---------- Post added at 10:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:05 PM ----------


keep posting when you fine a fix i also has a 86 that i did t11 swap 87lm and can,t get it to run more than a few sec, then dies have been looking for 2to3 weeks same thing 2pms 2heps junk yard map and barr. still just starts then shut down see vid. i posted

i sure will, very frustrating

[going4speed]

was a fix found for this issue?

[turboshelbys]

It ended up being a ground wire off of the transmission, it had a break inside the jacket

[boost geek]

would that happen to be a brown wire?

[boost geek]

isnt the asdd on the strut tower in 87?,with a metal cover?

[Vigo]

would that happen to be a brown wire?

Typically the brown wire laying across the top of the transmission is the starter solenoid wire.

[cordes]

isnt the asdd on the strut tower in 87?,with a metal cover?

The ASD is in the PM on the LM/PM cars.